ventilation & electrical questions

I put this up in the newbie section but I don't think I'm going to get much of a response there, I can't find a way to delete it or I'd just move it here, but here we go:

I'm currently stuffing a 3x3 tent with equipment before I get started growing. I've read a good bit about ventilation and my big question for my set up is will I want to use passive intake or get a separate intake fan? I'll probably be buying another centrifugal fan very soon no matter what, but don't know if I want to use it in this tent or just leave it until a few months down the line when I start filling up a 4x8 tent. In the 3x3 I have an lec 315 (which cannot be air cooled) and an active air 6" 400CFM cetrifugal fan. In my space, noise and smell are big issues. I'm not trying to be stealthy, it's just an agreement that I'll only be allowed to grow if the homeowner (who lives here) is convinced that my grow isn't going to bother her in the slightest. I'm working on a written proposal covering electrical costs, etc. Right now I think the obstacle between me and a green light to grow is noise. I'm thinking of putting the active air into storage til I move and getting one or two max-fans for the quiet. Not saying money is no object, just that if I have to spend an extra 500 in order to get the green light, I'll do it. Also, I haven't bought my carbon filter yet, As long as I have people here looking at my airflow set up, is a can 33 or a can 50 recommended? I got the can 33 in my cart on amazon but I'm afraid it might not be enough to scrub every inkling of smell. I really need the smell gone, I'm allowed to take dabs in the house but not smoke flower- that's how she feels about the smell.

Weighing my options with my current equipment and possibly one more duct fan-
1. I could buy one fan speed controller and turn my exhaust down a little bit to cut down on noise and still use passive intake. Only uses one fan, so it might be kind of quiet.
2. I could buy two fan speed controllers and one fan for intake, and keep them both at 50%. I've spent a lot of time building computers and my personal experience is that a fan at 100% is much much louder than when it's at 95%, and both of those are hurricanes compared to 50%. Is it the same way with duct fans?
Which of these will make less noise? which is better for my ladies? does having negative pressure in the tent make a difference?


second, I was wondering if it's a good thing to open the tent doors or windows during lights on? I know what I just said about smell, but assuming she's gone for the day or whatever. On one hand, it turns a 3x3 space effectively into whatever the size of the room you're in is, so it's probably gonna be closer to ambient temperature in there, but since the tent isn't sealed anymore, and the intake and outtake are probably in the same area, it would neutralize those, and you'd lose a reflective wall around your light. Net gain or net loss?

Third, I can remember from growing years ago that you don't want to overload circuits by plugging too much crap in to one circuit, basically if your room is one circuit and that circuit is rated for 15 amps, if the amperage of all the stuff in the room that's plugged in and on equals more than 15 amps you're gonna blow the circuit. That's my understanding. my questions, assuming I understand all of this correctly, are- what does blow the circuit mean? Just go flip the switch in the fuse box? And does it help to run extension cords all over the house so that the ballast is plugged in in the kitchen, the fans in the bathroom, etc? does it help to run cords across the room so you're using all the outlets instead of just one surge protector? At what point in size/scale/wattage should a grower even concern themselves with these things?

One more electrical question- In trying to put together a proposal to get this going, I've re-done my electrical costs sheet like four times. At this point I've already made a damn excel spreadsheet I can just type in my wattages, it spits out a cost per week in veg and a cost per week in flower. My understanding is that in my city, electricity is on a tier system so your first 500 kwh are one cost, the second 500 kwh are a higher cost, and any power used beyond that is super expensive. to make a convincing proposal, when I do the math for calculating how much my grow will cost I'm always assuming we're on that highest tier, and in excel it rounds it to 16 cents, which is fine, I'm rounding up with all the costs to make a profit for her, an offer she can't refuse.
so if during veg I use 535 watts during lights on (18 hours) and 220 watts during lights off (6 hours) at 16 cents per thousand watts an hour, (.535x1+(.22x6)=10.95 kilowatt hours, 10.95x.16=$1.75 per 24 hours in veg?
Is that math correct?

Also, just a thought, but am I perhaps overdoing it with ventilation? I mean a 3x3x6 is really just 54 cubic feet, Do I really need over 300cfm?

Any and all answers appreciated
And if anybody expresses interest in my excel grow cost calculator I'm happy to upload that.

Just buy a variac and a big carbon filter, and use your 6 inch fan. Adjust the variac for noise. Some manufacturers dont reccomend slowing them down too much (around 50 percent or lower).

Electric should always be considered. It only takes a quick once over on smaller grows.

As far "blow a circuit" you pretty much got it. Yeah basically the fuse or breaker is designed to fail when too much current is drawn. For your circuit, you should use the continuous load 80% rating. So for everything that’s on the circuit. Lets assume you have only 1 15 amp circuit. 15 amps x 120 volts = 1800 watts 1800 watts x .80 = 1440 watts maximum you should pull from the circuit.

No good reason to keep open the door of the tent in your scenario.

Math looks good, but it might be ever so slightly more than that. If you plug a kil-a-watt in it to items you will know exact draw.

- Jiji

borbor said:

I put this up in the newbie section but I don't think I'm going to get much of a response there, I can't find a way to delete it or I'd just move it here, but here we go:

I'm currently stuffing a 3x3 tent with equipment before I get started growing. I've read a good bit about ventilation and my big question for my set up is will I want to use passive intake or get a separate intake fan? I'll probably be buying another centrifugal fan very soon no matter what, but don't know if I want to use it in this tent or just leave it until a few months down the line when I start filling up a 4x8 tent. In the 3x3 I have an lec 315 (which cannot be air cooled) and an active air 6" 400CFM cetrifugal fan. In my space, noise and smell are big issues. I'm not trying to be stealthy, it's just an agreement that I'll only be allowed to grow if the homeowner (who lives here) is convinced that my grow isn't going to bother her in the slightest. I'm working on a written proposal covering electrical costs, etc. Right now I think the obstacle between me and a green light to grow is noise. I'm thinking of putting the active air into storage til I move and getting one or two max-fans for the quiet. Not saying money is no object, just that if I have to spend an extra 500 in order to get the green light, I'll do it. Also, I haven't bought my carbon filter yet, As long as I have people here looking at my airflow set up, is a can 33 or a can 50 recommended? I got the can 33 in my cart on amazon but I'm afraid it might not be enough to scrub every inkling of smell. I really need the smell gone, I'm allowed to take dabs in the house but not smoke flower- that's how she feels about the smell.

Weighing my options with my current equipment and possibly one more duct fan-
1. I could buy one fan speed controller and turn my exhaust down a little bit to cut down on noise and still use passive intake. Only uses one fan, so it might be kind of quiet.
2. I could buy two fan speed controllers and one fan for intake, and keep them both at 50%. I've spent a lot of time building computers and my personal experience is that a fan at 100% is much much louder than when it's at 95%, and both of those are hurricanes compared to 50%. Is it the same way with duct fans?
Which of these will make less noise? which is better for my ladies? does having negative pressure in the tent make a difference?


second, I was wondering if it's a good thing to open the tent doors or windows during lights on? I know what I just said about smell, but assuming she's gone for the day or whatever. On one hand, it turns a 3x3 space effectively into whatever the size of the room you're in is, so it's probably gonna be closer to ambient temperature in there, but since the tent isn't sealed anymore, and the intake and outtake are probably in the same area, it would neutralize those, and you'd lose a reflective wall around your light. Net gain or net loss?

Third, I can remember from growing years ago that you don't want to overload circuits by plugging too much crap in to one circuit, basically if your room is one circuit and that circuit is rated for 15 amps, if the amperage of all the stuff in the room that's plugged in and on equals more than 15 amps you're gonna blow the circuit. That's my understanding. my questions, assuming I understand all of this correctly, are- what does blow the circuit mean? Just go flip the switch in the fuse box? And does it help to run extension cords all over the house so that the ballast is plugged in in the kitchen, the fans in the bathroom, etc? does it help to run cords across the room so you're using all the outlets instead of just one surge protector? At what point in size/scale/wattage should a grower even concern themselves with these things?

One more electrical question- In trying to put together a proposal to get this going, I've re-done my electrical costs sheet like four times. At this point I've already made a damn excel spreadsheet I can just type in my wattages, it spits out a cost per week in veg and a cost per week in flower. My understanding is that in my city, electricity is on a tier system so your first 500 kwh are one cost, the second 500 kwh are a higher cost, and any power used beyond that is super expensive. to make a convincing proposal, when I do the math for calculating how much my grow will cost I'm always assuming we're on that highest tier, and in excel it rounds it to 16 cents, which is fine, I'm rounding up with all the costs to make a profit for her, an offer she can't refuse.
so if during veg I use 535 watts during lights on (18 hours) and 220 watts during lights off (6 hours) at 16 cents per thousand watts an hour, (.535x1+(.22x6)=10.95 kilowatt hours, 10.95x.16=$1.75 per 24 hours in veg?
Is that math correct?

Also, just a thought, but am I perhaps overdoing it with ventilation? I mean a 3x3x6 is really just 54 cubic feet, Do I really need over 300cfm?

Any and all answers appreciated
And if anybody expresses interest in my excel grow cost calculator I'm happy to upload that.

Click to expand...

I've highlighted the most critical parts of your inquiry. Expand your quote in this reply to view.
Point 1: Negative pressure is fine. You absolutely do not need a separate intake fan, provided your main exhaust is enough to evacuate heat.
Points 2&3: This relates to a different point, which I'll address in a minute, but, considering your room design, it doesn't matter if you get a one speed or a two speed. They're both essentially pointless.
Point 4: negative pressure is obviously beneficial for smell control, however that is only the case if your stale air is being evacuated completely. It is of course beneficial for air flow, but only if the air is fresh.
Point 5: This is a huge problem and almost a dealbreaker. So, your exhaust is blowing into your room? I personally wouldn't even fire up the grow, but it sounds like you're going to anyway. I don't have time to get into plant biology, but you should research a bit on C02 plant consumption. Long story short, plants photosynthesize by converting energy from your grow lamps into CO2, then oxidize sugars and release O2. This isn't a recyclable equation however,or we'd all be relying upon our gardens to convert water and CO2 into sugar until they finally excreted O2 and so on instead of piping in fresh air for replenishment. Even sealed CO2 burner or tank rooms need to evacuate their stale air after the breakdown process is complete. Not to mention your RH will be skyhigh since you're just recycling stale air. Oh, and then there's the smell issue you're concerned about. Carbon filters work fairly well, when you're blowing the stale air outside. In short: exhausting into your intake is an absolutely terrible idea. Regardless if the "windows are open."
Point 6: 15 amps sounds like it will be plent sufficient for your small tent. If I'm not mistake I believe the 15 amp capacity is 1800 watts? You wanna load the breaker with no more than 80% of this.
Point 7: see point 6
Point 8: this is the least of your concerns. Your main concern should be evacuating your stale air. Otherwise, as mentioned, you're going to run into RH issues, smell issues, and plant health issues. Ideally cut a hole through the house( not an option in your case) or buy an exhaust window kit. Period.
Hth

Dankfactory said:

I've highlighted the most critical parts of your inquiry. Expand your quote in this reply to view.
Point 1: Negative pressure is fine. You absolutely do not need a separate intake fan, provided your main exhaust is enough to evacuate heat.
Points 2&3: This relates to a different point, which I'll address in a minute, but, considering your room design, it doesn't matter if you get a one speed or a two speed. They're both essentially pointless.
Point 4: negative pressure is obviously beneficial for smell control, however that is only the case if your stale air is being evacuated completely. It is of course beneficial for air flow, but only if the air is fresh.
Point 5: This is a huge problem and almost a dealbreaker. So, your exhaust is blowing into your room? I personally wouldn't even fire up the grow, but it sounds like you're going to anyway. I don't have time to get into plant biology, but you should research a bit on C02 plant consumption. Long story short, plants photosynthesize by converting energy from your grow lamps into CO2, then oxidize sugars and release O2. This isn't a recyclable equation however,or we'd all be relying upon our gardens to convert water and CO2 into sugar until they finally excreted O2 and so on instead of piping in fresh air for replenishment. Even sealed CO2 burner or tank rooms need to evacuate their stale air after the breakdown process is complete. Not to mention your RH will be skyhigh since you're just recycling stale air. Oh, and then there's the smell issue you're concerned about. Carbon filters work fairly well, when you're blowing the stale air outside. In short: exhausting into your intake is an absolutely terrible idea. Regardless if the "windows are open."
Point 6: 15 amps sounds like it will be plent sufficient for your small tent. If I'm not mistake I believe the 15 amp capacity is 1800 watts? You wanna load the breaker with no more than 80% of this.
Point 7: see point 6
Point 8: this is the least of your concerns. Your main concern should be evacuating your stale air. Otherwise, as mentioned, you're going to run into RH issues, smell issues, and plant health issues. Ideally cut a hole through the house( not an option in your case) or buy an exhaust window kit. Period.
Hth

Click to expand...

Thanks! I was going to either have intake or outtake ducting at the window, always assumed that would do the job for fresh air, am I wrong? got a buddy who just uses negative pressure in his 4x8 tent in a sealed (disgusting) bedroom with a 50 CFM 4" inline fan out the window. I've always been baffled at how his plants come out so good considering I get a funny feeling in my lungs after a few hours of hanging out in his room. One of my goals is to blow his plants out of the water.


speaking of co2 and ducting I had two more tiny questions-
co2 tank and a regulator are useless unless the room is sealed and cooled right? have a different friend who runs an aircooled 860 watt CMH in his flower tent, but no intake or outtake, temperature stays fine in his cold ass house, and he runs co2 in the tent. would it be a waste in a tent with intake/exhaust?

and also, I don't really see photos of grows using this rubber coated ducting, is there a reason why? melting? http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CALYPAI/ref=ox_sc_act_title_6?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

Dankfactory said:

So, your exhaust is blowing into your room? I personally wouldn't even fire up the grow, but it sounds like you're going to anyway. I don't have time to get into plant biology, but you should research a bit on C02 plant consumption. Long story short, plants photosynthesize by converting energy from your grow lamps into CO2, then oxidize sugars and release O2. This isn't a recyclable equation however,or we'd all be relying upon our gardens to convert water and CO2 into sugar until they finally excreted O2 and so on instead of piping in fresh air for replenishment. Even sealed CO2 burner or tank rooms need to evacuate their stale air after the breakdown process is complete. Not to mention your RH will be skyhigh since you're just recycling stale air.

Click to expand...

PLEASE........don't recycle rollitup babble. I'm starting to think most people on here have this notion that you put a few plants in a room and if you don't circulate air every few minutes it turns into an oxygen chamber.

Nothing could be farther from the truth.

- Jiji

I kinda wonder in both directions. Like I said, all answers and advice are appreciated, I like to hear different ideas on what's ideal, what's necessary, and I'm sure I'll find my answer somewhere

Food for thought

http://io9.com/5955071/how-many-plants-would-you-need-to-generate-oxygen-for-yourself-in-an-airlock

This is just (a estimate) for 1 person to SURVIVE in a sealed chamber.

I already stated enough of my opinions on this subject in my other thread.

- Jiji

jijiandfarmgang said:

PLEASE........don't recycle rollitup babble. I'm starting to think most people on here have this notion that you put a few plants in a room and if you don't circulate air every few minutes it turns into an oxygen chamber.

Nothing could be farther from the truth.

- Jiji

Click to expand...

You'll have to elaborate. Your response is rather broad and unspecific. Exactly what questions can I answer for you, and further, exactly which answers can I question for you?

Dankfactory said:

You'll have to elaborate. Your response is rather broad and unspecific. Exactly what questions can I answer for you, and further, exactly which answers can I question for you?

Click to expand...

I quoted it. Everything except for photosynthesis (which most people learn about in 5th grade) is false.

Cmown, your telling a person to research photosynthesis and he shouldn't even grow with his setup. Based on what premise? Plants need CO2 for photosynthesis?.........Yeah, I think that’s well established. Guess what, there is CO2 in his home. Guess what, people exhale CO2 and use oxygen. Guess what, in most homes there’s way more CO2 than outdoors, especially in winter months when there’s no intentional air exchange. People call this stale air because of a high CO2 content (research sick building syndrome).

You should do research, or maybe grow something indoors before giving advice.

- Jiji

jijiandfarmgang said:

I quoted it. Everything except for photosynthesis (which most people learn about in 5th grade) is false.

Cmown, your telling a person to research photosynthesis and he shouldn't even grow with his setup. Based on what premise? Plants need CO2 for photosynthesis?.........Yeah, I think that’s well established. Guess what, there is CO2 in his home. Guess what, people exhale CO2 and use oxygen. Guess what, in most homes there’s way more CO2 than outdoors, especially in winter months when there’s no intentional air exchange. People call this stale air because of a high CO2 content (research sick building syndrome).

You should do research, or maybe grow something indoors before giving advice.

- Jiji

Click to expand...

This is simply a very elementary rant about C02. Exactly which( list them) points in my original reply to the OP are you having a hard time comprehending? Since everything aside from the subject of photosynthesis is incorrect, I'm sure you wouldn't mind listing your rebuttal to each topic you disagree with, instead of simply rambling about how C02 is used by human beings, and is prevalent in structures?
I should note, since you have brought it to question, that I'm fairly satisfied with the glistening end results of my labor

jijiandfarmgang said:

I quoted it. Everything except for photosynthesis (which most people learn about in 5th grade) is false.

Cmown, your telling a person to research photosynthesis and he shouldn't even grow with his setup. Based on what premise? Plants need CO2 for photosynthesis?.........Yeah, I think that’s well established. Guess what, there is CO2 in his home. Guess what, people exhale CO2 and use oxygen. Guess what, in most homes there’s way more CO2 than outdoors, especially in winter months when there’s no intentional air exchange. People call this stale air because of a high CO2 content (research sick building syndrome).

You should do research, or maybe grow something indoors before giving advice.

- Jiji

Click to expand...

Further, if you read back to my original post, specifically the end of the post, I stated that the OP shouldn't embark on this grow unless he found a way to ventilate the room. Nobody has suggested that he simply "shouldn't grow with his setup."
I simply said he shouldnt proceed with his stated plans as is, and instead figure out a way to properly ventilate the system( refer to the recommendation of venting with a window kit at the end of the post )
In literature, and writing in general, the cadence and flow is typically laid out so it establishes the point. Sometimes this takes place over multiple sentences, instead of the summary occurring all in a single sentence. Occasionally, the point isn't made until the very last sentence, where it supports and sums up the entire topic. To understand this phenomenon, one must try their hand at "Reading Comprehension."

Dankfactory said:

This is a huge problem and almost a dealbreaker. So, your exhaust is blowing into your room?I personally wouldn't even fire up the grow, but it sounds like you're going to anyway.

Click to expand...

You go on to explain the reasoning on this is for not enough CO2. (IT is possible there are other good reasons to do this, but not necessarily, especially without knowing more circumstances)

Homes with people living in them generally have 2-3 times higher CO2 amounts or possibly more than outdoors.

Dankfactory said:

I don't have time to get into plant biology, but you should research a bit on C02 plant consumption. Long story short, plants photosynthesize by converting energy from your grow lamps into CO2, then oxidize sugars and release O2. This isn't a recyclable equation however,or we'd all be relying upon our gardens to convert water and CO2 into sugar until they finally excreted O2 and so on instead of piping in fresh air for replenishment.

Click to expand...

Your last sentence doesn't make sense. I think what your trying to exemplify is that after a while plants produce an abundance of O2 and run out of CO2. This just is not the case. The OP is going to have a couple plants, not many leaves under a couple hundred watts. Depending on room size and activity in house I'm guessing that if you you analysed the CO2 in the OP's room the difference would be near unnoticeable.

Fact - Homes/rooms breathe or exchange air if you will. Not a whole lot but they are not vacuum chambers. Otherwise people would die all the time from lack of oxygen.

Fact - Homes have a much higher CO2 content than outdoors

Dankfactory said:

Even sealed CO2 burner or tank rooms need to evacuate their stale air after the breakdown process is complete. Not to mention your RH will be skyhigh since you're just recycling stale air. Oh, and then there's the smell issue you're concerned about. Carbon filters work fairly well, when you're blowing the stale air outside.

Click to expand...

What breakdown process are you talking about? Stale air, what is this stuff?

The only reason I'm familiar with for exhausting CO2 rooms is people who have burners. Not always but sometimes people have issues with by-products from the combustion process.

Dankfactory said:

In short: exhausting into your intake is an absolutely terrible idea. Regardless if the "windows are open."

Click to expand...

Not for the reasons you listed. Except, that he might right into high RH issues, I'll give you credit for that.

Dankfactory said:

In literature, and writing in general, the cadence and flow is typically laid out so it establishes the point. Sometimes this takes place over multiple sentences, instead of the summary occurring all in a single sentence. Occasionally, the point isn't made until the very last sentence, where it supports and sums up the entire topic. To understand this phenomenon, one must try their hand at "Reading Comprehension."

Click to expand...

That ad hominen fallacy is an old trick. How long did that take you to write? This isn't a freshman level English class, this is a forum. Believe it or not, I am educated.

- Jiji

jesus christ I'll just buy one of those co2 bag things, put it in my tent, take a dump on it, break the window and cut my wrists with the glass if it'll make everybody calm down and be nice to each other!

but also I'm high and thinky and was doing some math that's really stupid to even think to do
I'm not asking who's got a bigger dick, you guys.
total volume of earth's atmosphere- 418000000000 km
Surface area of earth- 510,100,000 km
Ratio of atmosphere to area 820

surface area of my tent 9
volume of my room 704
atmosphere to area if it were airtight 78.2

I know that's really really stupid math to do and not very relevant, but ehghehhh???

[QUOTE="jijiandfarmgang, post: 11102483, member: 424199"]You go on to explain the reasoning on this is for not enough CO2. (IT is possible there are other good reasons to do this, but not necessarily, especially without knowing more circumstances)
My main issue with exhausting into his intake was most definitely not confined to there not being enough C02. There are other reasons to avoid this practice from an increase in garden room temperature( admittedly prob not an issue in his case due to the small setup) to an increase in RH. It was a general recommendation that he exhaust air from his hood outside the garden, which is standard practice.


Your last sentence doesn't make sense. I think what your trying to exemplify is that after a while plants produce an abundance of O2 and run out of CO2. This just is not the case. The OP is going to have a couple plants, not many leaves under a couple hundred watts. Depending on room size and activity in house I'm guessing that if you you analysed the CO2 in the OP's room the difference would be near unnoticeable.
Again, this was simply a recommendation that he find a way to exhaust his hoods away from his room. He had various questions relating to smell control, fan noise, breaker consumption etc. I recognize that you are a studied individual on C02 and how it relates to cannabis consumption. Thats outstanding. Were all very impressed. Im reminded of the token individual so common in the forum setting these days who researches a subject, consumes the information, and then stops into various threads to proudly display their expertise on the topic. The foundation of my original reply to the OP was simply to address his query point by point. Your knowledge on C02 is utterly righteous, however is this your only arrow in the quiver?




Fact - Homes/rooms breathe or exchange air if you will. Not a whole lot but they are not vacuum chambers. Otherwise people would die all the time from lack of oxygen.
Fact - Homes have a much higher CO2 content than outdoors
You truly are a C02 Maven.


The only reason I'm familiar with for exhausting CO2 rooms is people who have burners. Not always but sometimes people have issues with by-products from the combustion process.
Yes.I mentioned burners in my original post. And if growers striclty with tanks simply dont need to evacuate air, then thats interesting. My ego is not above acquiring new information. Thats what forums are all about.



Not for the reasons you listed. Except, that he might right into high RH issues, I'll give you credit for that.
Smell control and heat are not acceptable reasons to evacuate room air traveling through a hood?




That ad hominen fallacy is an old trick. How long did that take you to write?
Like a fucking hour and a half dude. Whew! I threw a fresh pot of grinds on for that one.

This isn't a freshman level English class, this is a forum. Believe it or not, I am educated.
Great job. I only have an Associates degree but I work as a Fire Paramedic, have a pension, and own my house and growroom at the beach here in CA.My shih tzu also strictly enjoys only the finest raw organic pheasant. Does anybody give a f*** about our personal lives? I doubt it. This was simply the last point to respond to in the expanded quote.

- Jiji[/QUOTE]

borbor said:

jesus christ I'll just buy one of those co2 bag things, put it in my tent, take a dump on it, break the window and cut my wrists with the glass if it'll make everybody calm down and be nice to each other!

but also I'm high and thinky and was doing some math that's really stupid to even think to do
I'm not asking who's got a bigger dick, you guys.
total volume of earth's atmosphere- 418000000000 km
Surface area of earth- 510,100,000 km
Ratio of atmosphere to area 820

surface area of my tent 9
volume of my room 704
atmosphere to area if it were airtight 78.2

I know that's really really stupid math to do and not very relevant, but ehghehhh???

Click to expand...

Bro, before you do that, make sure you seek out our resident C02 guru on if these steps are even necessary.
Good luck with your setup.Ego boosting, self righteous semantics aside, what has always worked for me is simply to properly exhaust your hood out of the garden, bring in fresh air from outside, with zero intake boosting fans for the intake ports on the tent. The negative pressure is more than sufficient for flow. Considering the size of your grow, power consumption shouldnt be an issue, but just a heads up: if the actual breaker in your box is on the older side, itll be more prone to trip. Ideally, replace it with a new breaker, and try not to load it more than 80% capacity.

for real though, I'm just gonna see if I can do intake from the window in winter and exhaust in summer, and if not that, opposite sides of the room and I'll report back to you around march