Vegan Organics Aka Veganics With Matt Rize

Dank Raptor

Dank Raptor

Active Member
4 weeks away you should still give her Nitrogen as needed. Alfalfa and fish hydrolysate are also good nitrogen sources.

I just found a source of info to back up the idea that too much carbon (sugar/molasses) does indeed cause nitrogen defencies. This is because microbes will draw nitrogen from the soil in order to make use of the extra carbon. This has to do with the carbon/nitrogen ratios that are involved in composting.

source:http://whatcom.wsu.edu/ag/compost/fundamentals/needs_carbon_nitrogen.htm

In the soil, using organic matter with excess carbon can create problems. To complete the nitrogen cycle and continue decomposition, the microbial cells will draw any available soil nitrogen in the proper proportion to make use of available carbon. This is known as "robbing" the soil of nitrogen, and delays availability of nitrogen as a fertilizer for growing plants until some later season when it is no longer being used in the life-cycles of soil bacteria.
 
trichmasta

trichmasta

Active Member
I always use carbs(Honey ES) like an enzyme...giving the highest numbers with heaviest feedings/inoculations; so basically during transition and peak bloom! No yellowing in my ladies!!:)
 
D

dickkhead

Active Member
Dank Raptor said:
4 weeks away you should still give her Nitrogen as needed. Alfalfa and fish hydrolysate are also good nitrogen sources.

I just found a source of info to back up the idea that too much carbon (sugar/molasses) does indeed cause nitrogen defencies. This is because microbes will draw nitrogen from the soil in order to make use of the extra carbon. This has to do with the carbon/nitrogen ratios that are involved in composting.

source:http://whatcom.wsu.edu/ag/compost/fundamentals/needs_carbon_nitrogen.htm

In the soil, using organic matter with excess carbon can create problems. To complete the nitrogen cycle and continue decomposition, the microbial cells will draw any available soil nitrogen in the proper proportion to make use of available carbon. This is known as "robbing" the soil of nitrogen, and delays availability of nitrogen as a fertilizer for growing plants until some later season when it is no longer being used in the life-cycles of soil bacteria.
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thanks for that man! I think it is do to the fact of using to much molasses should I go full strength with the nn Nitrogen or how much fish hydro would you feed her? i have a bottle or I could top dress neem cake?....
 
'ome Grown

'ome Grown

Well-Known Member
I'm sure some alfalfa tea should suffice for your nitrogen woes...id stay away from the fish stuff as I grow veganically.
 
+ WitchDoctor +

+ WitchDoctor +

Well-Known Member
dickkhead said:
I have a sativa in flower ( sour candy) and ever sense a few weeks ago when u fed her humboldt honey all her leaves yellowed on me I remember u guys saying its because that stuff cause nitrogen to get locked out. Should I feed her some nn nitrogen or vega she's prob 4 weeks away from finishing.
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If you think your nitrogen might be locked out, adding more isn't the answer. Have you checked your PH? I would check your PH and make sure it's at least in the ball park first...if it is then you can add nitrogen, but whatever source you choose to use, just make sure you don't add too much that late into flower. Neem cake is a slow release, so I don't think it would work well that late in flower, but if you have a product like Nature's Nectar Nitrogen I would recommend using that at 1/4 strength or less.
 
Dank Raptor

Dank Raptor

Active Member
I would probably go 4ml/gl on the NN. Depends on how big your plants are though. I like to make sure there is plenty of phosphorus and potassium so the plant doesnt get confused with a nitrogen dominant feeding.
 
B

blacktourmaline

Member
hells yeh MATT! thats what im talking about, good moves all around. time for some greenhouse VEGANIC STYLEY. By the way this track by MIDNITE is one of my favorites defiantly bump this to your outdoor.

[video=youtube;p0cJaD75KYo]http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_detailpage&v=p0cJaD75KYo[/video]
 
B

blueJ

Active Member
Dickhead - I've gone through the ringer with yellowing plants by midflower, giving higher N right now will only slow the yellowing down, but it won't green up the plant, but definitely give it a shot of NN-N or vega or whatever. Key, for me, is to go heavy with N @ transition and the first couple weeks into flower, i give a shot of NN-N @ transition and they darken the fuck right up. I've also been lowering the amount of molasses, but still use it every feeding and in flower i use honey ES once a week instead of molasses. I still give vega up till like week 5 along with full flower nutes. Alfalfa will do nothing for you by mid flower, too slow to absorb, i guess a strong tea of it will make it more immediately available though. I've realized now I need to go heavy with the biocanna, every feeding all the way through flower, even in fairly heavily amended soilless mix, at least my bitches are all super hungry all the time!

user7121_pic869504_1334288691.jpguser7121_pic869506_1334288691.jpguser7121_pic869507_1334288691.jpg
 
+ WitchDoctor +

+ WitchDoctor +

Well-Known Member
I use NN Nitrogen when I flip, usually at half strength with Indica-dom strains because I use other slow release nitrogen sources in my mix. I go full strength for Sativas because they stretch so much more for. I use Vega into the 3rd week, but I also introduce Flores the third week. I don't think I've ever used Vega after the 3rd week though. I use 2ml of Dark Agave or Molasses every feeding, and AACTs every other feeding. I add a couple tablespoons of Alfalfa to the AACT during flowering as well, and don't get any early yellowing.

I was feeding very heavy with BioCanna last year on my White Widows, and cut back to basically just a little bit over what they recommend on the bottle for the last run...yields were lower, so I'm feeding heavy again as well.

I just bought some of that ES honey, I've never used it before...Cosco sells 2 packs of Organic Agave for super fucking cheap so I've been using that.
 
D

dickkhead

Active Member
+ WitchDoctor + said:
I use NN Nitrogen when I flip, usually at half strength with Indica-dom strains because I use other slow release nitrogen sources in my mix. I go full strength for Sativas because they stretch so much more for. I use Vega into the 3rd week, but I also introduce Flores the third week. I don't think I've ever used Vega after the 3rd week though. I use 2ml of Dark Agave or Molasses every feeding, and AACTs every other feeding. I add a couple tablespoons of Alfalfa to the AACT during flowering as well, and don't get any early yellowing.

I was feeding very heavy with BioCanna last year on my White Widows, and cut back to basically just a little bit over what they recommend on the bottle for the last run...yields were lower, so I'm feeding heavy again as well.

I just bought some of that ES honey, I've never used it before...Cosco sells 2 packs of Organic Agave for super fucking cheap so I've been using that.
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Word! I made the mistake of transitioning to early ESP For a sativa!
 
B

blueJ

Active Member
BOG's original bubblegum strain - Bogbubble! :D thanks bro, it's been a year long vegan organic adventure, and i believe i'm dialed in with what i use :D , more or less, and i couldn't be happier with the results.

She smells like grape bubblegum, love it.
 
Bird Gymnastics

Bird Gymnastics

New Member
Here is some of my veganic flowers that im about to chop in a couple weeks...here is some "orange" crush I have been working on...let me know what you think :) It's because of you man that my veganics have become so solid. Thank you for all the info







ill try and get some better pictures. I couldn't find my camera so had to use the camera phone. Not too bad for a small cam lol
 
+ WitchDoctor +

+ WitchDoctor +

Well-Known Member
+ WitchDoctor + said:
And here is a link to a site that has NPK values for all kinds of stuff to make your own fertilizers :weed: Scroll down to the bottom of the page.
http://www.thechileman.org/guide_fertilizer.php


But now I actually have a question for one of you guys that I've been wanting to ask for awhile: I'm big into worm composting now...couldn't I just keep two separate worm bins and put high P and K waste in one bin and use the other bin for high N waste...and just use the high PK compost during flowering instead of Soft Rock Phosphate? It makes sense in my head....but it seems like if it was that easy everyone would be doing it...
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Can anybody answer this question?...or open it up for discussion with their opinions on the idea? If nobody really knows I'm just going to set up another worm bin and use all the high PK food waste and scraps from my juicer in that bin...
 
NightbirdX

NightbirdX

Well-Known Member
+ WitchDoctor + said:
I use NN Nitrogen when I flip, usually at half strength with Indica-dom strains because I use other slow release nitrogen sources in my mix. I go full strength for Sativas because they stretch so much more for. I use Vega into the 3rd week, but I also introduce Flores the third week. I don't think I've ever used Vega after the 3rd week though. I use 2ml of Dark Agave or Molasses every feeding, and AACTs every other feeding. I add a couple tablespoons of Alfalfa to the AACT during flowering as well, and don't get any early yellowing.

I was feeding very heavy with BioCanna last year on my White Widows, and cut back to basically just a little bit over what they recommend on the bottle for the last run...yields were lower, so I'm feeding heavy again as well.

I just bought some of that ES honey, I've never used it before...Cosco sells 2 packs of Organic Agave for super fucking cheap so I've been using that.
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you are just about doing the same thing that I do. I am up to a weekly feeding of 30ml of BioFlores, and a 15ml feeding of BioFlores with 5ml's of NN Nitro. At the start of week 3 I hit them with 25ml Vega, and then on the next watering, I give them 10ml of Flores. I am going to start using the NN Nitro on this light feeding also because I still have Nitrogen issues, just not as bad. I have had issues with Bubba not liking 30ml's/gal so if you are gonna try to do a high yield situation using BioCanna, be sure your strains respond well to it. My Bubba is just a slow steady feeder. It doesn't like being pushed, it just does great things on lower nute doses, and I have to water it less because it takes up less, if I water it heavy it will be soggy forever. Small consistent feedings twice a week, letting it dry thoroughly. If you bomb it and soak it, it will lock up in a heart beat, lol. My Plushberry Purp pheno, I think could probably take 50ml's/gal for the week, lol. Don't be afraid to use higher levels of nutrients. Just be smart doing it.

I have found that as I have built my soil, the nutrient levels I feed at are also on the rise. I started with straight pro-mix and was feeding at 15ml/gal 2x a week. Now I amend my soilless medium with EWC, Lime, Azomite, etc, and my nutrient levels are just about double. As long as there is a readily available buffet of micro nutrients with a light macro charge, you can use BioCanna as a soilless, even though it isn't recommended. You just have to amend the piss out of it to make up for what the BioCanna lacks. But if you have everything readily available that is lacking, and keep a good balance, your nutrient consumption will go through the roof. One 1 liter bottle doesn't last long.
 
+ WitchDoctor +

+ WitchDoctor +

Well-Known Member
NightbirdX said:
I have found that as I have built my soil, the nutrient levels I feed at are also on the rise. I started with straight pro-mix and was feeding at 15ml/gal 2x a week. Now I amend my soilless medium with EWC, Lime, Azomite, etc, and my nutrient levels are just about double. As long as there is a readily available buffet of micro nutrients with a light macro charge, you can use BioCanna as a soilless, even though it isn't recommended. You just have to amend the piss out of it to make up for what the BioCanna lacks. But if you have everything readily available that is lacking, and keep a good balance, your nutrient consumption will go through the roof. One 1 liter bottle doesn't last long.
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I was using 70/30 Promix/FFHF with light amendments and guanos last year when I started using plant-based nutrients. I was trying to use up the seabird guano I had left...and burnt some plants up and decided to go 100% organic plant-based. I switched over to 50/50 Roots cocomix/FFHF with vegan amendments for a couple runs and had some issues with leaf tips curling and some other things that I couldn't dial in. Now I'm using my own soilless mix and having great results with every strain I'm growing.


  • Soilless Mix= aprox. 30 gallons

    Dolomite lime –1 1/2 cups
    Neem cake – 2 cups
    Karanja cake – 2 cups
    Mykos 30 – 2 cups
    Coffee/tea grounds – 2 cups
    Epsom salt – ½ cup
    Greensand – 2 cups
    Banana Bark – 2 cups (at least)

    ¼ bale of compressed coco chips
    2 bales compressed coco fibers
    2 gallons peat
    3 gallons EWC
    2 gallons worm compost

    I have also found that as I built my soil my nutrient levels have been able to go up. I'm also using two types of fungi, Xtreme Mykos in the mix, and Roots Oregonism on the roots when I transplant...not sure if that's any more beneficial than using just one or the other, but I'm definitely not going to stop doing it until I find out otherwise lol.​


    ​

 
Wolverine97

Wolverine97

Well-Known Member
+ WitchDoctor + said:
I was using 70/30 Promix/FFHF with light amendments and guanos last year when I started using plant-based nutrients. I was trying to use up the seabird guano I had left...and burnt some plants up and decided to go 100% organic plant-based. I switched over to 50/50 Roots cocomix/FFHF with vegan amendments for a couple runs and had some issues with leaf tips curling and some other things that I couldn't dial in. Now I'm using my own soilless mix and having great results with every strain I'm growing.


  • Soilless Mix= aprox. 30 gallons

    Dolomite lime –1 1/2 cups
    Neem cake – 2 cups
    Karanja cake – 2 cups
    Mykos 30 – 2 cups
    Coffee/tea grounds – 2 cups
    Epsom salt – ½ cup
    Greensand – 2 cups
    Banana Bark – 2 cups (at least)

    ¼ bale of compressed coco chips
    2 bales compressed coco fibers
    2 gallons peat
    3 gallons EWC
    2 gallons worm compost

    I have also found that as I built my soil my nutrient levels have been able to go up. I'm also using two types of fungi, Xtreme Mykos in the mix, and Roots Oregonism on the roots when I transplant...not sure if that's any more beneficial than using just one or the other, but I'm definitely not going to stop doing it until I find out otherwise lol.​


    ​
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That seems like a metric fuckton of neem cake, and karaja cake too. I'd consider backing off on those a lot, but if it aint broke...
 
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