Vacuum Purge times and temp for different wax consistency

illmatix

Active Member
Consistancy is everything, especially as far as tempature goes. Imo you have to use digital temp control or simular accuracy -/+ 1 degree, or you wasting your time. A tempature spike can easily push your shatter into wax. Screw that! Griddles and the like are not for vac purge...they use 15-30degree spikes to climb a couple of degrees and do that constantly thru the purge time. Not good. Temps will jump up and down inevitably

Theres no set number on temp for what makes what as far as consistancy because other variables like how fine you grind up your stalk, what micron screen size your using, how much you agitate your bho, etc. all come into play and in combination with temp.

I only make Two types myself. Live resin from fresh frozen buds and shatter from cured buds. The goal with temp is to preserve as much flavor as possible by not burning out your terps but making your bho still viscous enough to let out the bubbles of tane when under pressure.

For Shatter I go 89-95 degrees. For live resin I go 80-89 degrees as to preserve more of its flavor than shatter because raw terps evap quiker as dry cured weed lost most of those terps in its drying phase.

Nothing in the blast game is black and white but I can tell you that consistancy is key

Another great tip. Agitate the bho least as possible. I make dishes out of Raw Brand parch paper and four paper clips then blast into that so i do not need to scrape with a blade. I set the oarch dish in my chamber and purge it for 48-72 hours without disturbing it and it comes out magical every single time.

The only time you shpuld get a wax result is if you made a mistake. There is no reason to make wax intentionally when you can make shatter instead
 

Quagmire6969

Active Member
I love all the info out there on purge times and temps etc. Myself I prefer a shatter finish not a pull and snap but shatter. And temp is the most crucial thing imo. If i go any higher then 96° it will start to wax up on me. In my location if i stay 95° or less it has come out to a shatter consistency every single time. I don't winterize either unless it's requested if I'm running it for someone else. I have had people dab trim runs of my shatter not winterized and people tell me now that's done right I can't taste no waxes or lipids and they think it's a nug run. I found when I did winterize it always came out to a pull and snap consistency and I find the winterization process removes way too many terpines.
I have only did 1 run of live resin and found the yields suffer way to much. I was wondering if i did do a batch of fresh frozen then let the material dry out if i blast it again will I get the rest of the trichomes cause when I did fresh frozen that once I got less then half of what I would usually get from a tube of material.
 

Afgan King

Well-Known Member
I love all the info out there on purge times and temps etc. Myself I prefer a shatter finish not a pull and snap but shatter. And temp is the most crucial thing imo. If i go any higher then 96° it will start to wax up on me. In my location if i stay 95° or less it has come out to a shatter consistency every single time. I don't winterize either unless it's requested if I'm running it for someone else. I have had people dab trim runs of my shatter not winterized and people tell me now that's done right I can't taste no waxes or lipids and they think it's a nug run. I found when I did winterize it always came out to a pull and snap consistency and I find the winterization process removes way too many terpines.
I have only did 1 run of live resin and found the yields suffer way to much. I was wondering if i did do a batch of fresh frozen then let the material dry out if i blast it again will I get the rest of the trichomes cause when I did fresh frozen that once I got less then half of what I would usually get from a tube of material.
Yields don't really suffer too much when you think of it. 1lb wet = around 2.5-3oz dry. Average weight loss is more than 80% especially on trim
 

Eat2live

Member
Usually takes 10-24 hours of purging on and off...

For me shatter is just another vac and a cable box dry away from wax. (Others should chime in with better methods)

Try to stay between 100F-120F and as I reeceently learned don't go further than 29.5hg
 

BeeDabbin

New Member
You live in a state u can go get the best of the best I guess I've never been fortunate enough to have the luxury of going to the dispensary and saying hey I wanna g of moxie live resin lol just saying
 

Afgan King

Well-Known Member
You live in a state u can go get the best of the best I guess I've never been fortunate enough to have the luxury of going to the dispensary and saying hey I wanna g of moxie live resin lol just saying
Fuck that most dispensaries suck I don't live in Denver and even then not the greatest. Green labs and craft 710 are the shit but I'm not paying 30 a g for shatter and 50 for full melt when I can make my own lol used to work for them I have a mkc4 myself I make hash just as fire granted I use their technique's or atleast the head extractors technique. The best weed and hash normally doesn't come from dispensaries. Ask @ttystikk what people say up here about the hash I make and mainly from his trim as well. People go nuts
 

YBAdick?

Member
Not really. You gotta be REAL careful at those temps cause different strains respond differently.
I've waxed up a lot of runs now at only 107-110
And I've had perma goo form at only 128-130F
And not sure exactly what you mean by "oil" at 140 and up but at those temps I've got taffy cause I don't winterize so It's my understanding if you still have plant waxes/lipids in your "oil" it will never be liquid low viscosity oil without winterizing it to get the impurities completely out.

By reading through the thread I posted the link to you will see how these factors play out in different situations and with different strains.
Not really. You gotta be REAL careful at those temps cause different strains respond differently.
I've waxed up a lot of runs now at only 107-110
And I've had perma goo form at only 128-130F
And not sure exactly what you mean by "oil" at 140 and up but at those temps I've got taffy cause I don't winterize so It's my understanding if you still have plant waxes/lipids in your "oil" it will never be liquid low viscosity oil without winterizing it to get the impurities completely out.

By reading through the thread I posted the link to you will see how these factors play out in different situations and with different strains.
Im new but experienced in a professional capacity and thought I’d share some scientific info with you fellow enthusiasts. I hate secretive dickheads, this the username. Ok, Depending on the solvent used, chlorophyll, waxes, lipids and so on don’t even get extracted in the initial process. For example if using 5X butane the aforementioned wont be brought along for the ride. However, butane does have its own set of contaminants that burn off ABOVE the tempS that our beloved cannabinoids and terpenes do. SO, these individual boiling points must be manipulated with vacuum, in a distillation unit (of Sorts). Alcohol on the other hand DOES bring the aforementioned undesirables along but with Almost NO other contaminants. SO, again you’ve got a choice to make considering the material and equipment you have access to. Also, and BERY importantly, how will the end product be consumed. This plays a huge role in determining the manner in which it should be processed and which solvent should be used. Example: remove terpenes for extracts used in edibles and not get the funky taste. How? Fractional Distillation under vacuum, in a specifically modified unit, with wide control over temps ranging well below 0.
 
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