Trying to rewire some warehouse 400 w metal halide. Ballasts are catching fire.

Could be that's why they were free? Smart move dumping them. Magnetic ballasts are a dime a dozen. I got 8 1K HPS ballasts off Craigslist for $50 ea. All I had to do was drive to ATL and get them. When I got there the guy said that there were 10, and since I was buying 8, he just gave me the other 2.

I'm still trying to figure out why there are the multi-tap wires when it isn't really multi tap.

Wowndude that's an awesome score, are they warehouse lights? I'm always on the lookout for cheap ones I can purchase.

I don't really know much about electric theory, but I'm guessing the transformers in the ballasts are multitap. Maybe the mfr of the ballasts got them cheaper that way. I'm guessing the capacitor is meant for a single voltage. Maybe that's why mine blew up.

I've been fortunate enough to be where they tore down 2 major steel plants, and was able to score as many MH and HPS 400w and 1K as I wanted. In fact, I bought a bunch for some people on another site I was on before the bust. Every single one of them was multi-tap.
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Any time you need that kind of thing, try calling salvage companies or demolition companies. They are generally more than happy to get rid of the used shit at a great price. (anything they get is pure profit) A lot of them came with huge polished aluminum reflectors. Craigslist has been a pretty good source too, but I'm pretty close to ATL, and that helps. You can get just about anything same day in Atlanta. BIG city.

look pal i am not being funny, but these types of ballasts are noisy, and unpredictable, they are normally built in to a lamp unit at the bottom encased inside a steel box, if it does go on fire its impossible to spread any further than the unit as long as it is earthed as it will trip or fuse while melting, get a ballast that runs with its own protection.
the ballasts you have usually have single solid core stiff wire inside the unit too, to stop heat and burning travelliing along the inside wires to outside the box.

you can see the metal box under the bulb holder.

you normally get a buzzing sound at start up, that quietens to a whisper after a few minutes.
the glass is toughened glass too in case there is a slim chance of high pressure bulb blow out which would be very dramatic spraying glass in all directions.
which has only been reported a couple of times in history.

For the most part, I have a minimum of 4 1K and 2 400w magnetic ballasts going at any given time, and have had for over 5 years. One of them does have a buzz as you describe, but you cannot hear it at the room door. Magnetic ballasts are readily available and cheap (He's on a budget). You are right though. There ARE inherent risks. I don't recommend Beavis or Butthead try and wire one, but they are pretty straightforward and easy for the average intelligent person who has done his research to convert.

They may not be pretty or have that cool factor going on, but they get the job done in grand style. They are VERY predictable. A magnetic coil isn't gonna just give up the ghost without warning like a circuit board will. But that's just my opinion.

Jack Harer said:

I have a minimum of 4 1K and 2 400w magnetic ballasts going at any given time, and have had for over 5 years. One of them does have a buzz as you describe, but you cannot hear it at the room door. Magnetic ballasts are readily available and cheap (He's on a budget). You are right though. There ARE inherent risks. I don't recommend Beavis or Butthead try and wire one, but they are pretty straightforward and easy for the average intelligent person who has done his research to convert.

They may not be pretty or have that cool factor going on, but they get the job done in grand style. They are VERY predictable. A magnetic coil isn't gonna just give up the ghost without warning like a circuit board will. But that's just my opinion.

Click to expand...

i use old fashioned magnetic ballasts too, in fact here is a pic of the ones i use, they are cheap, and built like tanks.
my mate has used them for years and he said they were simple and reliable.


so i use them too now.

I thought you were trying to get him to sink some cash into a digital. Sorry for the assumption. I like that one. How much more than $50 was it? It does take some time and effort, not to mention gas running down parts. If a man can get one of those for around $100 or so it's well worth it.
I've been trying to find some electrical "project boxes" for a while now. My ballasts would just be nicer to look at. Sadly, in this Hamlet/Burg I live in, you about gotta order almost everything 'cuz nobody stocks anything unless it's a hot item seller.

I have been converting used commercial HID lights since I started. I've looked at the fancy digitals in the pretty boxes, but if I HAD gone that route, I'd be out a whole lot of money. I got popped about 18 months agoo, and the cops took 4 1K HPS, 4 1K MH, 3 400w MH and 4 400w HPS ballasts. All in all, (not counting my labor) I had in all those about what I'd have paid for a real nice 1K ballast and hood from the Hydro store. AND I still have plenty of them in reserve.
I'm not that much on a budget anymore, but I'll be damned if I'll let a friggin' COP laugh at me 'cuz he got all my expensive lights!!

I was fortunate to be in a town where they tore down a huge steel factory and a huge pipe and fitting forge. I giot MAD deals on ballasts, Both MH and HPS in 400w and 1K. I bought all I could get my hands on with any spare money I could come up with. As a result, I (and all my grower friends) are well set for lights for a great while. And should the worst happen, we aint out a lot, and have some to fall back on. I have spent (wasted) my fair share of money buying the latest and greatest. If I can help someone avoid that mindset, I'll consider it a pretty good day.

WeeGogs said:

look pal i am not being funny, but these types of ballasts are noisy, and unpredictable, they are normally built in to a lamp unit at the bottom encased inside a steel box, if it does go on fire its impossible to spread any further than the unit as long as it is earthed as it will trip or fuse while melting, get a ballast that runs with its own protection.
the ballasts you have usually have single solid core stiff wire inside the unit too, to stop heat and burning travelliing along the inside wires to outside the box.

you can see the metal box under the bulb holder.

you normally get a buzzing sound at start up, that quietens to a whisper after a few minutes.
the glass is toughened glass too in case there is a slim chance of high pressure bulb blow out which would be very dramatic spraying glass in all directions.
which has only been reported a couple of times in history.

Click to expand...

Wow, I mean I knew there were risks, and now that you mention it the bulbs were in a metal reflector. I didn't really realize that was a saftey measure, so I definitely appreciate your input. I do still have 2 of those warehouse 400s, and I thick what scares me most is the bastards shake pretty hard when they fire up... Almost enough to knock them off a shelf, so I definitely don't doubt their dangerous. I think I'll eventually replace them with a 600 watt electric...

I used to run a floodlit sports pitch and our ballasts ran off 415V 3-phase (UK, 240 is normal). I'm no sparky but are you sure yours weren't 3-phase. It's what they tend to use in factories over here.

Wow you guys are fuckin crazy/ Please for the love4 of fucking god stop trying to fucking kill yourself.

Look here is the deal. Your ballast are bad! Stop fucking with them. Ballast can come in 120/240/277/480 ALL IN THE SAME FUCKING BALLAST. You have them wired right just stop fucking with them!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Cues : One of the most common 3-phase configurations in the US is what is called "Corner grounded delta" it is in fact 3-phase power but is able to run 240v setups. Hence why it is the common form of 3-phase power since it is still somewhat flexible.

Check this link out if your interested in it. http://www.electrical-contractor.ne...cs/177456/New_3_Ph_3_Wire_Corner_Grounde.html

Edit Edit : this site describes it a bit better. http://www.elec-toolbox.com/usefulinfo/xfmr-3ph.htm

PS to formfactor please stop trying to kill yourself