Tiny White Worms and Black worms that can jump an inch

Never mind definitely not aphids.

when perpetual.....one doesn't apparently almost a year later and still got em

acephate is the most effective but it can only be used in veg and on moms. Abamectin seemed to work pretty well too.

the merit which was supposed to be the best didn't work worth a damn. If I was in dirt i'd try some met52


so far we've tried

riptide

Merit

gognats

sns209&213

azaguard

abamectin

orthene

spinosad

i'm probably missing something too.

Holy crap... I'm gonna definitely keep an eye out for those bastards. Have you tried Carbaryl? I used the shit like water when working for the USDA, and it is the go to tool if you need bugs to f'ing die and keep doing doing do for a two years after it is applied. Mind you, I have been a fucking mess ever since being around so much of that crap, but it works.

Here is Carbaryl in civilian friendly portions.

We would get the shit delivered in 55 gallon drums 100 of them a summer. We would put 1 55 gallon barrel in 1000 gallons of water, and you could literally watch the caterpillars fall out of the trees, gnats, bee's, wasps. It would all die instantly.... June beetles would crawl around for about 30 seconds then their shells would make cracking noises.

Little piece of info it is made by the Bayer Aspirin corporation, it's the white crap by the stem of your apples in most cases, and "If your system becomes overloaded with Carbaryl you cant even eat an apple with the skin on it you will be so sensitive to it." In thus I grow 80% of the vegetables I eat for the year, and 40% of the fruit." The USDA does not recognize it at a health condition, so they don't owe me a cent. If I eat anything with that shit on it I vomit within 30 min every time. permethrin isn't much better for you.


Edit: I should be better within 5 years if I avoid it like the plague.

I have used BT, Bacillus Thuringiensis, brand name Thuricide. Very effectively in my perpetual. I am pretty organic and examine my soil cultures under 100x oil microscrope. It hasn't had any detrimental effect on my micro's, bacteria or single cells, I and have been pest free for months now. Good Stuff.

Try ths link.

http://www.ext.colostate.edu/pubs/insect/05556.html

SS68396331 said:

I have used BT, Bacillus Thuringiensis, brand name Thuricide. Very effectively in my perpetual. I am pretty organic and examine my soil cultures under 100x oil microscrope. It hasn't had any detrimental effect on my micro's, bacteria or single cells, I and have been pest free for months now. Good Stuff.

Try ths link.

http://www.ext.colostate.edu/pubs/insect/05556.html

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BT is some nasty crap. You realize it has systemic properties, and WILL be present in your smoke right? It is toxic to humans as well although poorly documented, not everything natural is good. Especially when synthesized in the lab.

I understand how it works. I doubt it has any ill effect on the weed.

SS68396331 said:

I understand how it works. I doubt it has any ill effect on the weed.

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The BT isn't the problem, it's the agent they use to attach it to the digestive process of the insect. They don't know the effects of it if it were smoked. I was just saying watch out for it's systemic properties, I know it is known to make certain types of conifer's abort their cones prematurely.

Something to watch. It's always the chemistry. sigh. I thought Gnatrol was Bt based. As with anything in such a high concentration, use the thuricide pretty sparingly. Does not take a heavy application by any means. Just time for them to get to work. You have given me something to research though as I think your point has merit.

I looked and Gnatrol does not contain the binding agents because it is designed as a larvicide, and their source is created by natural means derived from fermentation and is not synthesized. Although I still don't like the systemic properties, It would be a one of my last resorts right before DE.

I don't disagree at all. Use of it, as with anything should be well planned. It is quite effective. After the problem went away I reduced my water a bit and since haven't seen them since. Good information though.

I have the same concerns as you. I have some ultra sensitive clients. I get grilled constantly and want to provide them the absolute best organic I possibly can.

I have heard Cedar oil to be effective. I personally have not used it, but an organic friend of mine mentioned it. I am gong to run some through a plant and see what happens to my fungi. Not sure it it is so good for beneficials.

Neem oil, it works. I had them starting up, just used it twice and haven't seen them since. Completely organic too.

The only downside to the neem is it is a good fungicide so be careful how much if any you use. It will work but with a cost to your soil. It's another of those "cure can kill" things. Certainly will not kill the plant but I noticed definite shock, then an N def when I did it a long time ago. That sent me down the Bt road. Which I do believe is the answer, but as pointed out, this needs a little more investigation into its transport and any residual effect it may have in the end flower. All this banter and no flowers? Here is my Blue Dragon still mozying along.

Another friend tried the sand thing it helps. If your population isn't so far of the map.

On the up side if they are just FG they have to get pretty bad before the damage anything. But they do need to be killed off. If your plants are otherwise strong you should be fine minus the inconvenience.

Neem oil did not work worth a crap, neither did drying it out till the point all leaves were drooping. Any other suggestions? Is this a common problem with Fox Farms soil?

Ok... Neem oil works believe me.... 2 things with neem oil.... You want cold pressed.... And you want to mix it well as possible at 90 degrees.... Use a drill mixer....

the other thing is, neem works from the inside out... Bug eats neem, bug dies...that simple. So you must use neem when you water your plant, when the bug eats the plant, it also eats a little neem... And dies. The other thing is it takes time, needs don't work instantlywork instantly

10-4 I'm gonna go do it now, and in a few days ill get back to ya! Thanks!

dangerlow said:

10-4 I'm gonna go do it now, and in a few days ill get back to ya! Thanks!

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Ohh use a little dish soap with it... The tiniest amount of neem will kill the big that ingested it... Obviously within reason.(dish soap helps it emulsify into the water.)

Warning.... NEem tastes like skunks ass.... Make sure you give your plants a good flushing a week or two before havest to eliminate the taste

Well no luck still. I took the soil into a friend of mine who is an Entomologist and she said they were springtails, and since she works for the GOBERMENT she recommended some nasty shit to kill them. Neem oil does not kill spring tails worth a crap.

Anyone ever deal with spring tails?

She said I had roughly 100 per square inch of soil. She was impressed.

Spring tails won't harm your plants.

adower said:

Spring tails won't harm your plants.

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So I can finally give up on this fight? What about getting stuck in the buds and shit later on? Is this a concern at all?