The Three - Amazing Shits....

kirby said:

Fantastic, thanks for your help. Where did you learn all this juicy information about auxin and photochrome, and all those other good plant hormones, botany classes?

I know molasses adds carbs and other essential micronutrients, but is it OK to water it will molasses, AND foliar feed daily with molasses?

Also, speaking of molasses, is there anything else you can do during flowering to increase bud size / yield, and increase potency ( resin )? I've heard before harvest, keeping it light for 3 days will strain or do something to the resin glands, and make it produce shittons of resin.

Thanks

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Thirty years of growing - I learned a lot by making mistakes. Learned other things by reading and trial & error. Plus, I taught my best friend's son how to garden, when he was small. Now, he's a Agri-Sciences Student at ASU (Arkansas). We discuss all aspects of farming, each summer when he's out for break. The young man is Einstein Smart and devoted to substainable agriculture.
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Like I was saying above, avoid Foliar Spraying during the last half of Flowering. It's just not worth the risk of mold. If you put it in the ground, Mary will take it in.
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Molasses & High P Bat Guano tea are the best Organic ferts to use, towards the end. Make both into a tea and water in, every two weeks. Don't use any ferts the last week, to ensure nice tasting buds.
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As far as, making Monster Buds, it pretty much gentics. Some plants got it, others don't. You can help any plant reach it's potential, there are no secrets to make a plant exceed it. Genetics determine, THC content, Resin Production and Bud Size.
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All those, Mega-Ferts, that promise to make your Buds weigh more than your right leg are just Hype. Fertilizing, low, slow & steady is the route to take. That way, Mary stretchs out her roots properly, looking for more water / nutes & doen't get burned in the process.
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More harm is done with the Mega-Ferts, than good. In nature, Mary would never find soil with a NPK of 0-50-30. That is too much of a good thing. Your plants suck it up, get shocked - slow down, and start trying to level out. The end result - buds that taste like chemicals.. Yuck....
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Hope this helps...
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Hell yeah, that's the best and only proper way to learn how to grow, Trial and Error! Well, In any case while this amazing organic thread is going, I hope you don't mind If I ask a few more questions regarding these organic ferts.

I bought some perlite and some organic soil for my next grow soon. The organic soil seems very very nice, as it's a mix of perlite, sphagnum peat moss, has all the mycorrizahe bacteria, sea compost, and some other bio things. Out of all my organic nutes so far -- Fish Emulsion( 2-4-0.5 ), Molasses, Guano(s), Kelp Extract, which one(s) should be using during vegging as teas and waters, and vice vera for flowering?
Also, how often should you water with organic nute mixes, and foliar feeds?

Thanks!

kirby said:

Hell yeah, that's the best and only proper way to learn how to grow, Trial and Error! Well, In any case while this amazing organic thread is going, I hope you don't mind If I ask a few more questions regarding these organic ferts.

I bought some perlite and some organic soil for my next grow soon. The organic soil seems very very nice, as it's a mix of perlite, sphagnum peat moss, has all the mycorrizahe bacteria, sea compost, and some other bio things. Out of all my organic nutes so far -- Fish Emulsion( 2-4-0.5 ), Molasses, Guano(s), Kelp Extract, which one(s) should be using during vegging as teas and waters, and vice vera for flowering?
Also, how often should you water with organic nute mixes, and foliar feeds?

Thanks!

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Kirby Sounds like you got some good soil to start in. If it has a NPK of at least 3-3-3 or above - you will not need to add anything for the first two to three weeks.
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If you start out low with your nutes, Mary will focus on spreading out her roots looking for water & nutes. Allot of people blow it here, trying to force her to grow faster.
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If you over feed early on, her roots stay small, which limits growth later on. As far as Mary is concerned, if the kitchen is three inches away, why should she grow roots beyond that.
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I water weekly and fertilize every two weeks. This helps avoid, the two biggest mistakes people make - Overwatering & Overfertilizing. Its better to give Mary a good soaking once a week, instead of frequent shallow waterings - which cause poor root development.
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Start your fertilizer tea on the weak side, using quarter & half strength mixes. It's always easier to add up, than wait for overfertilized soil to level out.
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Fish Emulsion, Bat Guano, Kelp, Molasses & Worm Castings are all great fertilizers. Just remember to double check your math, when making teas. If you make a weak tea, and notice your plants are a little pale, you can always make it up, on your watering week - by adding a little something.
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Low, Slow & Steady - builds the best plants / buds.. Slowly increase your fertilizer strength, each feeding, until week 9 of veggie growth. Then switch to a more flower friendly NPK, keeping the N at 3 or less and the P & K numbers at least 5 each or higher. Avoid a P & K above 12 each, as above those numbers you are just toxifying Marys tissues, not pumping up buds...
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Hope this helps...
Keep it Real...Organic...You'll be glad you did....
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Great words of wisdom there, thanks for all of that! And correct, as far as I know, it's better to underwater because the soil gets dry -- then the roots go looking for water. Hmm.. I'm growing some plants right now outdoors that are just starting to flower, but my main grows are going to be with Auto-Flowering plants. They only have 1-2 weeks of vegetative growth, then they show signs of sex, so I will need to be giving it flower nutes @ try to keep those buds up from the beginning.

Also, The kelp extract and molasses dont have any ratios on the bottle for NPK. But I think molasses is like 5-2-2, and no idea on the kelp.

kirby said:

Great words of wisdom there, thanks for all of that! And correct, as far as I know, it's better to underwater because the soil gets dry -- then the roots go looking for water. Hmm.. I'm growing some plants right now outdoors that are just starting to flower, but my main grows are going to be with Auto-Flowering plants. They only have 1-2 weeks of vegetative growth, then they show signs of sex, so I will need to be giving it flower nutes @ try to keep those buds up from the beginning.

Also, The kelp extract and molasses dont have any ratios on the bottle for NPK. But I think molasses is like 5-2-2, and no idea on the kelp.

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Oh Kirby... I did not know you were growing Lowryders or some version there of. Then switch my 9 week suggestion on when to switch nutes to week 4.
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Auto-flowering ladies, perform best with a middle of the road NPK. Feed around 5-5-5 on week three. Then switch to around 1-4-4 from there on out.
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Just water & fertilize them on a 4 1/2 day cycle, instead of a 7 day cycle, like we talked about. That will dial things right in. I speak from experience - I grow Lowryder 2's. They work well on that schedule.
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Your right on the molasses - one ounce to one gallon - averages 5-1-1 to 5-2-3. Every kelp extract seems to be a little different. ???
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Hope this helps..
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Yeah, I'm looking to take Joint Doctor's Diesel Ryder, grow a bunch of plants, and make it more of an IBL. I've already grown 4 out fully. From what I know, and from experience, Diesel Ryders have a much higher tolerance to nutes than LR#2. However, I've attached some pics of my plants that are having some problems. I quick dryed a sample of bud, and the high was very very very happy high, almost like pure head high with veeeeeeeeeeeeeery slight leg / body high. Definatly looking forward to harvest and curing. I took a part of the lowermost plant... and I found a seed ( was expected.. ), and it was still white and not hard yet..

Firstly, about 1-2 weeks ago the plant's leaves started to "claw", only 1" of the tips of the leafs though. This could be from over-watering, or over-nuting. Either way, It didn't go away, and I was foliar feeding and occasionally watering, so it just needed to chill out and fix itself.. that's what nature does. Some leaves started to yellow... though it didnt seem like a nute burn yellow, and eventually I decided to flush both plants with 2 gallons of water, and the last 2 quarts being a mixture of molasses and a very small trace of nutes for nitrogen.

The soil is still wet as balls... been cloudy here so theres been little sunlight to heat up the surface of the soil.. and I need to get my indoor rig working again soon here within the next few days >.< So, Im stumpted to as what the clawing problem is... I guess I'll just have to wait it out, until the soils completely dry and by then, it'll be harvest time. From those pics, I think maybe 1-2 weeks left, we'll see how it goes.

Thanks for your wisdom once again, organics master kiss-ass

kirby said:

Yeah, I'm looking to take Joint Doctor's Diesel Ryder, grow a bunch of plants, and make it more of an IBL. I've already grown 4 out fully. From what I know, and from experience, Diesel Ryders have a much higher tolerance to nutes than LR#2. However, I've attached some pics of my plants that are having some problems. I quick dryed a sample of bud, and the high was very very very happy high, almost like pure head high with veeeeeeeeeeeeeery slight leg / body high. Definatly looking forward to harvest and curing. I took a part of the lowermost plant... and I found a seed ( was expected.. ), and it was still white and not hard yet..

Firstly, about 1-2 weeks ago the plant's leaves started to "claw", only 1" of the tips of the leafs though. This could be from over-watering, or over-nuting. Either way, It didn't go away, and I was foliar feeding and occasionally watering, so it just needed to chill out and fix itself.. that's what nature does. Some leaves started to yellow... though it didnt seem like a nute burn yellow, and eventually I decided to flush both plants with 2 gallons of water, and the last 2 quarts being a mixture of molasses and a very small trace of nutes for nitrogen.

The soil is still wet as balls... been cloudy here so theres been little sunlight to heat up the surface of the soil.. and I need to get my indoor rig working again soon here within the next few days >.< So, Im stumpted to as what the clawing problem is... I guess I'll just have to wait it out, until the soils completely dry and by then, it'll be harvest time. From those pics, I think maybe 1-2 weeks left, we'll see how it goes.

Thanks for your wisdom once again, organics master

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Kirby Your girl needs a steady, gentle breeze - so turn on a small fan and let it blow on her for a day. That will help dry her soil out.
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While your waiting, check the pH. If you gave her a little to much ferts & or water recently, it may have shifted to above 6.8 If so, the N is being locked out, causing the yellowing / curling.
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Some yellowing is completely normal, as Mary focuses her energy on flowering. She just pulls from the parts she no longer needs - aka - the lower, older, fan leaves.
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If the pH is above 6.8, mix two tablespoons of epsom salt to a gallon of water. When her soil is a little drier, give her only one quart. Wait at least 6 hours, recheck the pH.
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If it is still high, give her a pint & recheck the next day. Don't give her any ferts until you get the soil to 6.8 or under.
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I believe that will help level things out.
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P.S. - Nice looking little plant, I just love the Joint Doctor's Strains. Now, there's a guy they should give the Nobel Peace Prize too.
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Thanks for your comments and help! My plants are always outside, except when it rains, so it gents a pretty good flow of breeze and CO2 If they're in my inside rig, I have a fan that blows on them so they keep strong stems.
I got Epsom Salt too for magnesium, wonderful I used to foliar feed with an Epsom salt solution to fix some rust spot problems I had and worked terrific. Thanks for the advice, I'll pull out the pH soil meter and give it a go!

Ohsogreen, Is there any way I can contact you so I dont hijack this thread anymore? I'm going to do a grow journal with two different groups of plants, all of them in soil, but one set will get organic feedings & nutes, while the other will only get Advanced Nutes.. I need your opinion on some things and it would be great if I could nitpick at your head a little more if you dont mind However people are busy these days and work hard so id understand if you dont have email or any of that ^^

Edit: Holy jeez! What was I thinking, I should have used my pH test meter more often! Plant A has a pH of 5.2-5.3, and plant B has a pH of 5.5. Holy shit, I need to throw in some baking soda or something to get this pH up up up when the soils a bit more dry! However baking soda is high in sodium and is alkaline so it should drop the ph.. however curling leaves may also be a sign of mg deficiency so i might want to throw in some epsom

Rust spots, that's how I would describe what I'm seeing on SOME of the plants. I'm promise I'm going to try to get some good photos of what I was talking about in the other thread, Ohso.

Yeah, chances are you might have a Mg problem. Just pickup some MgSO4( Epsom Salt ), put a few teaspoons into a quart, mix it well & spray it onto the plant in the morning and in the evening. When you spray your plant, make sure to get the undersides of the leaves as that's where the stomatas are, which open up when the temperature is cooler and intake the water/nutrients.

Ohsogreen you said you water once a week?What do you grow in ground or in container and how big?Also how much water?

Einstein said:

Ohsogreen you said you water once a week?What do you grow in ground or in container and how big?Also how much water?

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Einstein... I grow my plants in ground, in the forest. I water weekly, about 6 gallons per plant. I fertilize every two weeks - first, I give each plant two gallons of plain water, then five minutes later two gallons of weak fert mix, including SPT. This ensures your fert mix, just doesn't get sucked up by dry ground - it keeps the ferts in the root zone.
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If on a watering only week, I see any type of signal Mary needs something else - I slip here a little something extra. I rarely have to do this, because the soil I plant into is rich (organic) soil - Compost / Worm Castings / High N Bat Guano / Peat Moss / Pertilite / Pumice / and Alfalfa Meal.
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If you water weekly & fertilize every two weeks - you avoid the two biggest problems - Overwatering & Overfertilzing.
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Hope this helps...
Keep it Real...Organic....
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Let's recycle this thread....poof....back to the top.....

I think you meant to say, "Poop, poop!"

I stand corrected. Yes...Seamaiden...Poop, poop would be more appropriate in this situation. Thank You.....
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Keep it Real...Organic........
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Let throw this one back to the front page, one more time. Poop, Poop.....
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Keep it Real...Organic....

Ohso, again, I am humbled by you overwhelming knowledge of all things Cannabis and your love of sharing it with all that ask. As I posted in your "making tea" thread yesterday, you have convinced me to swap from my hydro grow and go to soil / all natural.

I have a question. My girls have been in rockwool cubed for a good 4 weeks now and I was wanting to go to soil. Truth be told this is my first grow and I have been messing up pretty bad with bad ph levels resulting in nute lockout and then nute burn. However my girls are recovering and developing nicely, albeit slowely. My question is this, I am wanting to swap over now, Will there be any complications from sticking my rockwool cubes in soil?

Also I have just bought some Ocean Forest potting soil, Light warrior, and peat moss. I was going to mix them as per your direction " 30 percent Light Warrior, 20 percent plain sphagum peat moss and 50 percent Ocean Forrest." I also have purchased high N bat guana, worm castings, and unsulphered molasses. I also have a friend that raises rabbits

Last part is not really a question, I just wanted your say in the matter. I planned on feeding every other week and wattering as needed. While foilair feeding with some tea. Whatdya think?

Thanks again.

edit: Also would you recommend and additional pre-manufactured nutes to help with the grow / flower cycle ( all natural of course)?

Isuckatlife said:

Ohso, again, I am humbled by you overwhelming knowledge of all things Cannabis and your love of sharing it with all that ask. As I posted in your "making tea" thread yesterday, you have convinced me to swap from my hydro grow and go to soil / all natural.

I have a question. My girls have been in rockwool cubed for a good 4 weeks now and I was wanting to go to soil. Truth be told this is my first grow and I have been messing up pretty bad with bad ph levels resulting in nute lockout and then nute burn. However my girls are recovering and developing nicely, albeit slowely. My question is this, I am wanting to swap over now, Will there be any complications from sticking my rockwool cubes in soil?

Also I have just bought some Ocean Forest potting soil, Light warrior, and peat moss. I was going to mix them as per your direction " 30 percent Light Warrior, 20 percent plain sphagum peat moss and 50 percent Ocean Forrest." I also have purchased high N bat guana, worm castings, and unsulphered molasses. I also have a friend that raises rabbits

Last part is not really a question, I just wanted your say in the matter. I planned on feeding every other week and wattering as needed. While foilair feeding with some tea. Whatdya think?

Thanks again.

edit: Also would you recommend and additional pre-manufactured nutes to help with the grow / flower cycle ( all natural of course)?

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Isuckatlife..... You can put plants that are in rockwool into soil, without problems. Just cover the rockwool completely with soil.
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Given the current age of your plants, expect them to look shocked for two to three days after the transplant. Mary is a tough girl she will recover.
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The Ocean Forest is chocked full of good things, so you will not need to add any nutes for at least two weeks. Then start with a weak tea, using only one teaspoon of High N Bat Guano, one tablespoon of Worm Castings & 1/2 ounce of Molasses to each gallon of unchlorinated water. Give each plant, two quarts of this weak tea, every two weeks.
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Get some of that bunny poop from your friend and start yourself a small compost pile, compost barrel, bucket or worm bin. Or just let it sun dry. Bunny poop is a great, all natural source of NPK, that can be topdressed, mixed into soil, made into a tea or fed to worms for extra special worm castings.

Foliar feeding once every ten days is OK during veg growth. I do not foliar feed from preflowering on. I don't, because it's humid where I live and I don't want to risk bud mold. Plus trichromes act just like velcro, holding onto everything that hits them. So, in my book foliar feeding during flowering is a no-no.
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Once you hit preflowering, get back with me and I'll help you dail them in.
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Good all Organic brands of ferts in a bottle are : Bontanicare Pure Blend Pro Series for Soil, Earth Juice and BMO. All work well, are easy to use and will get the job done.
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Hope this helps....
Keep it Real...Organic....

Thanks again Ohso, you've been a great help.

Isuckatlife said:

Thanks again Ohso, you've been a great help.

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Isuckatlife.... You are welcome. I am always glad to help. Once you've tasted your own, all organic grown bud, you'll never go back to chemicals.
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Keep it Real....Organic.....
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