Want to make a CO2 generator for less than a hundred dollars, capable of producing TONS of CO2? Tired of gimmicks like 2 burner and 4 burner used to sell over-priced commercial units? Check this out: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=edfcso0Bqns
Here's what you need:
A natural gas line - You could easily adapt this to propane. Honeywell makes switches for 3/4 and 1/2 in lines and burners, but it's easy to change sizes, just go to home depot and get some fittings (3/4 will carry more gas than 1/2)
Honeywell gas valve with thermocouple - This is the heart of the unit and will set you back about $60. You can these off eBay. You want something like VR8200A2124 or VR4200A2813 - the VR8200 are 24 volt, VR4200 are 120 volt. When buying, pay attention to the input / output diameter and whether or not a thermocouple is included.
The manual - Might not be included but easy to get online: http://s3.pexsupply.com/manuals/1249544874360/Honeywell_VR8200_Product_Data.pdf
Manual is written for several models, so make sure you are following the instructions for your model
Pipe dope - ALWAYS use pipe dope on gas pipe threads to get a good seal
Power source - either a 120 volt cord or a 24 volt adapter, depending on your Honeywell gas valve
Gas valve (optional) - might be a good idea to add a gas valve to the line if you don't already have one, in case of a fire
Thermocouple - if you didn't get one with your valve they are about $8 on amazon with shipping
Pilot light - you can pull one, along with a thermocouple and a burner off of a gas hot water tank, guessing you can buy one pretty cheap too, since they are really just a steel tube with a place to put the thermocouple.
A burner - take one off a gas hot water heater, grill, fireplace, ect. These can be expensive, so its better to find one. A gas hot water heater burner puts off a hell of a flame.
Pliers or wrenches
Carbon Monoxide Detector (optional) - maybe not the worst idea?
Instructions on how to Build:
Step 1: Watch the video to see how it works
Step 2: Read the manual
Step 3: Build it *
- Make sure that the pilot light isn't too close to the burner. The burner should shut off, but only once the pilot light cools down. If you put the burner so close it blows out the pilot light, a bunch of gas will leak out.
- Lower the gas as much as you can without risking the pilot light going out. This will give you better co2 control and lower the amount of gas that will leak out.
- Even tightened, the burner will swing. Secure the burner and consider encasing the unit in something like Firebrick or Roxul or steel.
- If you want a water cooled unit, try making one out of a gas hot water heater by connecting a pump to the tank. Since most people only replace water tanks once they start to leak, you'll probably have to JB weld the tank first. Don't use the tank if it's too rusted - the shell will eventually completely give out under the weight of the water inside and make a giant fucking mess. I mean giant too - hot water tanks can have 10-20 gallons of sediment in them at the end of their life.
There you go guys, hopefully it saves someone some cash. I'd love to see someone add to this, especially is someone could figure out how to make a co2 controller out of a $20-30 CO2 sensor.
* Legal Disclaimer: Do not build this unit. Natural gas should only be handled by train professionals. Electric should only be handled by trained professionals. Marijuana should not be cultivated by anyone. I take no liability for any damages
Here's what you need:
A natural gas line - You could easily adapt this to propane. Honeywell makes switches for 3/4 and 1/2 in lines and burners, but it's easy to change sizes, just go to home depot and get some fittings (3/4 will carry more gas than 1/2)
Honeywell gas valve with thermocouple - This is the heart of the unit and will set you back about $60. You can these off eBay. You want something like VR8200A2124 or VR4200A2813 - the VR8200 are 24 volt, VR4200 are 120 volt. When buying, pay attention to the input / output diameter and whether or not a thermocouple is included.
The manual - Might not be included but easy to get online: http://s3.pexsupply.com/manuals/1249544874360/Honeywell_VR8200_Product_Data.pdf
Manual is written for several models, so make sure you are following the instructions for your model
Pipe dope - ALWAYS use pipe dope on gas pipe threads to get a good seal
Power source - either a 120 volt cord or a 24 volt adapter, depending on your Honeywell gas valve
Gas valve (optional) - might be a good idea to add a gas valve to the line if you don't already have one, in case of a fire
Thermocouple - if you didn't get one with your valve they are about $8 on amazon with shipping
Pilot light - you can pull one, along with a thermocouple and a burner off of a gas hot water tank, guessing you can buy one pretty cheap too, since they are really just a steel tube with a place to put the thermocouple.
A burner - take one off a gas hot water heater, grill, fireplace, ect. These can be expensive, so its better to find one. A gas hot water heater burner puts off a hell of a flame.
Pliers or wrenches
Carbon Monoxide Detector (optional) - maybe not the worst idea?
Instructions on how to Build:
Step 1: Watch the video to see how it works
Step 2: Read the manual
Step 3: Build it *
- Make sure that the pilot light isn't too close to the burner. The burner should shut off, but only once the pilot light cools down. If you put the burner so close it blows out the pilot light, a bunch of gas will leak out.
- Lower the gas as much as you can without risking the pilot light going out. This will give you better co2 control and lower the amount of gas that will leak out.
- Even tightened, the burner will swing. Secure the burner and consider encasing the unit in something like Firebrick or Roxul or steel.
- If you want a water cooled unit, try making one out of a gas hot water heater by connecting a pump to the tank. Since most people only replace water tanks once they start to leak, you'll probably have to JB weld the tank first. Don't use the tank if it's too rusted - the shell will eventually completely give out under the weight of the water inside and make a giant fucking mess. I mean giant too - hot water tanks can have 10-20 gallons of sediment in them at the end of their life.
There you go guys, hopefully it saves someone some cash. I'd love to see someone add to this, especially is someone could figure out how to make a co2 controller out of a $20-30 CO2 sensor.
* Legal Disclaimer: Do not build this unit. Natural gas should only be handled by train professionals. Electric should only be handled by trained professionals. Marijuana should not be cultivated by anyone. I take no liability for any damages