senseisensi
Member
"Industrial kief tumblers cost what?!", you say. No way, build a better one!
The measurements are variable, because you really should build to suit. I would like to put exact measurements here, but your best bet is to find a rubbermaid container of your liking, and build around it. The threaded rod should not be longer than the width of the case, and the axles must protrude beyond the sides by at least two or three inches apiece.
Note on design philosophy:
Yeah, it's not motorized, and no, I don't care. Most dispensaries get irked when vendors approach them with kief, because no one wants to pay for leaf! Give that thing a five minute tumble, and in my experience, you'll have a desirable product. This means no motors. You can spare the five minutes of pushing a cylinder, and you'll be glad you did in the end.
You will need:
-power tools! At least a drill for holes and a router for shaping. Also a staple gun and some staples.
-enough plywood to cut 4 circles of 6" diameter or more. The radius of the cylinder should be no more than the height of the rubbermaid container.
-Threaded rod. Add 2" on each end to get your complete height.
-8 locknuts for the threaded rod, as well as eight wing nuts
-75 micron silk screen, usually obtained from a silk screening store.
-1/4" small hitch pins seem to work very well for axles, but you can improvise here.
-1/4" bore hole drill bit
1. Cut the ply into 4 equal circles. Stack them up and drill 4 holes into each so that the holes are equidistant along the edge of the circles.
2. On one of the circles, cut an opening in the middle. This is your load-in chamber.
3. On two of the circles, bore a 1/4" hole to use the hitch pin on. Fasten it to the edge of the circle. On this design, the hitch pins were too high, so we cut another 1/4" hole on top as a spacer so the pin would fit snugly.
4. Stack these up on your threaded rods, holding them apart with the lock nuts. From bottom to top this means you should have two circles, locknut, space for trim, locknut, one circle.
5. Once the cylinder structure is complete, you're ready to fasten the screen on. Grab the staple gun and go crazy along the edges, making sure to get a good seam. You can glue or simply duct tape the overhanging edge.
6. Use the same 1/4" bore to drill a hole into the rubbermaid container. Fit the axles into this hole, and spin away!
The measurements are variable, because you really should build to suit. I would like to put exact measurements here, but your best bet is to find a rubbermaid container of your liking, and build around it. The threaded rod should not be longer than the width of the case, and the axles must protrude beyond the sides by at least two or three inches apiece.
Note on design philosophy:
Yeah, it's not motorized, and no, I don't care. Most dispensaries get irked when vendors approach them with kief, because no one wants to pay for leaf! Give that thing a five minute tumble, and in my experience, you'll have a desirable product. This means no motors. You can spare the five minutes of pushing a cylinder, and you'll be glad you did in the end.
You will need:
-power tools! At least a drill for holes and a router for shaping. Also a staple gun and some staples.
-enough plywood to cut 4 circles of 6" diameter or more. The radius of the cylinder should be no more than the height of the rubbermaid container.
-Threaded rod. Add 2" on each end to get your complete height.
-8 locknuts for the threaded rod, as well as eight wing nuts
-75 micron silk screen, usually obtained from a silk screening store.
-1/4" small hitch pins seem to work very well for axles, but you can improvise here.
-1/4" bore hole drill bit
1. Cut the ply into 4 equal circles. Stack them up and drill 4 holes into each so that the holes are equidistant along the edge of the circles.
2. On one of the circles, cut an opening in the middle. This is your load-in chamber.
3. On two of the circles, bore a 1/4" hole to use the hitch pin on. Fasten it to the edge of the circle. On this design, the hitch pins were too high, so we cut another 1/4" hole on top as a spacer so the pin would fit snugly.
4. Stack these up on your threaded rods, holding them apart with the lock nuts. From bottom to top this means you should have two circles, locknut, space for trim, locknut, one circle.
5. Once the cylinder structure is complete, you're ready to fasten the screen on. Grab the staple gun and go crazy along the edges, making sure to get a good seam. You can glue or simply duct tape the overhanging edge.
6. Use the same 1/4" bore to drill a hole into the rubbermaid container. Fit the axles into this hole, and spin away!
