The far red thread

Baudelaire

Well-Known Member
View attachment 4156448
The problem with this shop owner is he also claims to use LM561c S6 bin on the white solstrips, but in fact it is only LM561b or even older ... Who knows? True is it's not LM561c and this is visible to the naked eye!

If a trader, despite better knowledge, sells items that do not match the description, he is simply untrustworthy.
For that reason, I do not trust him ... also with these stripes at least until I see sphere tests.
It is possible that the R bin is meanwhile available ... maybe they are actually installed ... who knows?
@Randomblame gotta call this out as you are spouting bullshit. "This shop owner" never sold LM561B strips as LM561Cs, ever. We sold a few strips with LM561B+ chips for a short time, and plainly described them as such. Customers who bought them never missed the 7% less efficacy and continue to happily grow with them. Since February, every SolStrip sold has featured LM561C chips.

Trust or not, but please stop with the false claims. I've built SolStrips around the idea that premium quality LED strips don't need to be expensive, or scarce, as other vendors you seem to favor would have you believe. Critique all you want, but stop spouting damaging lies that harm our reputation.

With regards to the deep red/blue SolStrips, we were able to acquire the Q and R bin Prolight diodes as they were released. The online documentation you reference is dated.

We never claimed they were better than Cree, just damn near as good at half the price, which allow us to sell a 40-chip, 48 watt deep red/blue strip for under $40. Here's the relevant specs on the SolStrip red/blue strips currently in stock:

Circuit design: 4S10P
LED: ProLight Opto Phenix 3535 diodes, 350ma, 3w
32 diodes Crimson 660nm (PK2N-3LME-HSD)
8 diodes Royal Blue 455nm (PK2N-3LDE-SDR)
Operating power: 34 - 48 watts
Forward voltage: 24 vdc
Operating current: 1400 mA
Maximum current: 2400 mA

From the CURRENT ProLight 3535 datasheet:

Prolight 3535 red blue specs.png
Prolight Opto PJ2N Phenix RSPD chart.png


SSX2RB unlit_2.png

View attachment 4156460
 
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Aolelon

Well-Known Member
@Randomblame gotta call this out as you are spouting bullshit. "This shop owner" never sold LM561B strips as LM561Cs, ever. We sold a few strips with LM561B+ chips for a short time, and plainly described them as such. Customers who bought them never missed the 7% less efficacy and continue to happily grow with them. Since February, every SolStrip sold has featured LM561C chips.

Trust or not, but please stop with the false claims. I've built SolStrips around the idea that premium quality LED strips don't need to be expensive, or scarce, as other vendors you seem to favor would have you believe. Critique all you want, but stop spouting damaging lies that harm our reputation.

With regards to the deep red/blue SolStrips, we were able to acquire the Q and R bin Prolight diodes as they were released. The online documentation you reference is dated.

We never claimed they were better than Cree, just damn near as good at half the price, which allow us to sell a 40-chip, 48 watt deep red/blue strip for under $40. Here's the relevant specs on the SolStrip red/blue strips currently in stock:

Circuit design: 4S10P
LED: ProLight Opto Phenix 3535 diodes, 350ma, 3w
32 diodes Crimson 660nm (PK2N-3LME-HSD)
8 diodes Royal Blue 455nm (PK2N-3LDE-SDR)
Operating power: 34 - 48 watts
Forward voltage: 24 vdc
Operating current: 1400 mA
Maximum current: 2400 mA

From the CURRENT ProLight 3535 datasheet:

View attachment 4156451
View attachment 4156458


View attachment 4156450

View attachment 4156460
Where is the proof that they are genuine. Let us see the lab report that you paid for, surely you've done some quality control testing. Or how else would you know they are 100% genuine.
 

Baudelaire

Well-Known Member
@Aolelon I'm not trying to convince you of anything. Why don't you show us the proof that you are "100% genuine" and not some competitor's sock puppet? I could show you "proof" that these chips are bits of the sun itself. The only proof that counts is in the bud. Haters gonna hate, I just want to help folks grow the kind....
 

Aolelon

Well-Known Member
@Aolelon I'm not trying to convince you of anything. Why don't you show us the proof that you are "100% genuine" and not some competitor's sock puppet? I could show you "proof" that these chips are bits of the sun itself. The only proof that counts is in the bud. Haters gonna hate, I just want to help folks grow the kind....
You're the one who called me out. So obviously you are trying to prove something, or you wouldn't have said shit.
people are growing great weed using CFL's or t5's. Some people want to know they are getting what they are buying. Now if you want to make a thread to prove it, you can do so. Other than that your cluttering up a good thread with your bullshit. Move on
 
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Randomblame

Well-Known Member
Do you really claim that they are your invention, your design? Where is the gerber file?
The first ones you sold you just bought from Alibaba. I still remember the time your first thread about these strips were closed.
And if initially no LM561c are on it(or time wise), you have to live with people like me that do not trust them.
The reference to LM561b you have not had from the beginning on your website.
In fact, I've seen strips of you who were not LM561c. If you meanwhile use real LM561c, well, I only saw those who were not genuine.(I believe in one of the LM561c related thread, but don't ask me where, there are a few)

And at the time you announced the red / blue strips, the Prolight datasheet was the most recent(I dl pdf from Prolight). So it's not my blame, it's Prolight's fault.
Samsung does not produce any more LM561c and focuses on LM301b since a while now. Who guarantees you the S6 binning, if you do not pick and place the diodes on the stripes yourself?
Even HLG was ripped off by these alibaba scammers and there is no way to specify bins without desoldering some diodes or test the strips inside a spheere.

Do not get me wrong, I like the idea behind, but in the best case, you just used another's design. 96 diodes on 1 'strips we have already seen on the TCM strips long ago and HLG has them too and lot's of alibaba scammers of course.
You made a few mistakes at the start of your business, so what, be a man and live with it! Everyone does that!
I'm just a single person and do not think a single comment from me could really hurt your business. I'm not Evan Leaks...

One tipp for free!
Ask cobkits for a strip test and send him a few strips of every series. If they are actually working in the promised efficiency range, you finally have a proof and I'll keep my mouth shut forever, ... I swear!
Positive side effect, you have something to publish on your website. He certainly will not ask for hundreds of dollars and even if not fully calibrated he can compare them to QB v1 numbers.

Every light will grow decent bud, even the baddest blurple ufo, that's no proof for anything, lol!
 
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KonopCh

Well-Known Member
Anyone tried far red at night with autoflowering strains? They're not as stable as photoperiods, shows numbers of phenos, but anyway... Any side by side with and without far red?
Maybe it's better to run far red 20/4 or 24/0 like main light? As a "bloom booster" with 3000K COBs, because autos need as much light as you can give them, not 12h only.
 

Randomblame

Well-Known Member
Anyone tried far red at night with autoflowering strains? They're not as stable as photoperiods, shows numbers of phenos, but anyway... Any side by side with and without far red?
Maybe it's better to run far red 20/4 or 24/0 like main light? As a "bloom booster" with 3000K COBs, because autos need as much light as you can give them, not 12h only.
Try it out, mate. You will probably get a bit more stretch and when you use too much you could see SAS(shade avoidance syndrom). I would not use more than 5% of the total light output. Most plants need a rest period, including ruderalis. The sun does not set only for a few weeks and then the intensity is very low in those hours. 20/4 should work pretty well and you can still use the IR-trigger.

Automatics can flower indepentently from the light regime but that doesn't mean they can handle more DLI.
But you can spread the light over more hours instead of 300w at 12/12 you only need 200w at 18/6 to get to the same DLI. Because the efficiency of photosynthesis is higher at lower intensity, you will get better results with the 200w 18/6 setup. If you increase the intensity too much you will get the same problems.
Slowly approach the maximum and pay attention to bleaching, hanging leaves, closed stomata and other symptoms that usually accompany with too much light. 20h x 500μMol/s/m² would be already a DLI of 40Mol!
I've used up to 600μMol/s/m² in the past(20h, AutoXtrem, DutchPassion) and had problems with more light but the limit is probably slightly different from strain to strain. A sativa dominat automatic can probably handle more light like an indica dominat strain. It's up to you to find out the optimum.
 

KonopCh

Well-Known Member
Let's stick to my post, please. I know how to grow autos.

Anyone tried far red at night with autoflowering strains? Any side by side with and without far red?
Maybe it's better to run far red 20/4 or 24/0 like main light? As a "bloom booster" with 3000K COBs, because autos need as much light as you can give them, not 12h only.
What to expect with EOD treatment with autoflowers, if we know flowering is based on age, not on light regime?
 

KonopCh

Well-Known Member
Maybe better, if you don't have proper answer, yes.
I asked about far red, you answer be about DLI. Don't need that sh*t.
 

Aolelon

Well-Known Member
Maybe better, if you don't have proper answer, yes.
I asked about far red, you answer be about DLI. Don't need that sh*t.
What do you think you do with far read and eod? It's to increase you're DLI numbnuts. Give you a longer day, or an increased rest period.
You're so shallow its ridiculous.
Maybe you should do an experiment and find the results for yourself.
 

KonopCh

Well-Known Member
What do you think you do with far read and eod? It's to increase you're DLI numbnuts. Give you a longer day, or an increased rest period.
You're so shallow its ridiculous.
Maybe you should do an experiment and find the results for yourself.
You can increase DLI or you keep it the same and have faster finish time. Wonder how's that with autos as I said.
Indeed, thanks.
That's why I am asking on public forum, maybe someone try this before me.
 

Randomblame

Well-Known Member
Maybe better, if you don't have proper answer, yes.
I asked about far red, you answer be about DLI. Don't need that sh*t.
I've clearly answered about far-red.. or not? Many times, btw. And you know it!
Your are the one acting like a dick if you not get the answer you want! And that's not the first time!
Ungrateful sack!

"Meh, meh... please answer only to my questions ...?"
Be glad that you do not get any bullshit from me. Nobody says you have to pay attention to everything. Pick out what you need! Fool...!
 

KonopCh

Well-Known Member
I've clearly answered about far-red.. or not? Many times, btw. And you know it!
Your are the one acting like a dick if you not get the answer you want! And that's not the first time!
Ungrateful sack!

"Meh, meh... please answer only to my questions ...?"
Be glad that you do not get any bullshit from me. Nobody says you have to pay attention to everything. Pick out what you need! Fool...!
Yea, and you think you know everything, but you cannot read questions. Who pleased you to come in every thread in this section? No one. But you just keep posting and spamming even someone don't need that info.
If you don't have answer, go away with your "generousity".
 

Randomblame

Well-Known Member
BTW, if you want more far red, why 3000k + 730nm?
CRI90 or higher already contains 4-7% more far red than CRI80. That's already enough! More would only cause SAS!

Ah, shit!
That's another unwanted answer... Useful? Maybe not for you, but the next one stopping by may find it useful. I still recieve likes on old messages.
Seems you have to life with it!
It's a forum!
 

WeedSexWeightsShakes

Well-Known Member
Yea, and you think you know everything, but you cannot read questions. Who pleased you to come in every thread in this section? No one. But you just keep posting and spamming even someone don't need that info.
If you don't have answer, go away with your "generousity".
lol this fucking guy gets spoon fed and complains about it. What a piece of shit. You’re the problem with the world.
 

WeedSexWeightsShakes

Well-Known Member
BTW, if you want more far red, why 3000k + 730nm?
CRI90 or higher already contains 4-7% more far red than CRI80. That's already enough! More would only cause SAS!

Ah, shit!
That's another unwanted answer... Useful? Maybe not for you, but the next one stopping by may find it useful. I still recieve likes on old messages.
Seems you have to life with it!
It's a forum!
Thanks for taking your time to answer that douche bag.
 

Randomblame

Well-Known Member
Yea, ingratitude is the worlds reward! Do not expect to get back what ou give..
You can throw pearls in front of the pigs they'll not recognize..!:wall:
I'll always try my best to deliver not just facts but also backgrounds and sometimes it needs more than one post for an adequat answer.
I force no one to read my posts..
Had he formulated the question properly and omitted the booster nonsense, it would certainly have gone faster.
If he had read the whole far-red thread, he would already know everything there is to know about this topic.
But I could bet he has not ..:P

:peace:



Thanks for taking your time to answer that douche bag.
 
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