The Chinese Quantum Board Knock Off Builds

Airwalker16

Airwalker16

Well-Known Member
DukeFluke said:
I'm thinking the spread outweighs the fewer diodes. What do you think?



Yep. I've pretty much settled into that way of thinking now. if I do upgrade stuff down the line I'm sure there'll be a use for what gets superseded.

The L shape... I should have explained properly. It's a 2m x 2.2m area. The reason I said L shaped is because I'm keeping a square meter to work with. I got greedy with the space last time and it was a bit of a nightmare to work in there so...

I've got two of those areas either side of each other and want to replace everything with LED. That'll be a total of six 400w fixtures replaced by roughly 2400w of Led. I'm thinking - with everything else going well - the Led should crush what the hps 400s are capable of. And be more manageable too.

With the longest side being 2.2m I can fit those bars wall to wall. My idea initially was to have 8 of those strips laterally across the 2m space, then another 4 in the square below. Ya dig?

That's a bar just under every 20cm, which I think is a pretty decent spread.

Ideally I'd like to have been able to mix the UV & IR boosted strips between the reglar ones, but if that's a no no then it's no biggie.
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6-400w HPS fixtures is easily replaced with 1500w of led. You don't need watt for watt replacement.
 
Airwalker16

Airwalker16

Well-Known Member
JOE GROWS said:
Are leds that bad? I thought they used less electricity
Going to go with CMH then
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I was gonna say CMH while having a great spectrum, are still an HID and HIDs burn hot. 5000℉+ kind of hot. This is why the whole "a watt is a watt" bullshit I just dont believe. LEDs run WORLDS cooler.
 
D

DukeFluke

Well-Known Member
Am I right in thinking those strips, provided they fit my space, are about the best I'm getting atm?

If so, which driver would you lot recommend to run 4 x 140W strips at 400W?

Cheers
 
Prawn Connery

Prawn Connery

Well-Known Member
coreywebster said:
It rings a bell.
I don't think prawns boards came with nylon washers either, I should have a look and see.

Its 100% my own fault, no washer, using a screw that was non standard pan head and not setting the torque on my driver...
Laziness and lockdown combo :D
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Yeah, it was the QB324 boards. They didn't come with nylon washers but they did come with button-head screws which, once secured, overlapped the copper trace underneath the solder mask. A few cycles of heating up and cooling down meant the aluminium board pressed up hard against the screw heads and ate through the solder mask into the copper, which shorted the board after about two weeks of use.

So there were really two issues: the board shouldn't have been designed with copper that close to the mounting holes to begin with, and if you're going to sell a board that is at risk of shorting out because the supplied screws overlap the copper layer, then you should be supplying nylon washers. But even nylon washers are not infallible, as if you over-tighten them you can split them.

The QB324s are high voltage boards, too – 108V if I recall correctly – so with two in series, that's 216V, and you don't want to get hit with that. So you'll understand why I wasn't too happy at the time. And why, when it came to designing our own boards, we mad esure there was plenty of clearance around the mounting holes. We even drew circles and lines on the boards to delineate the safe areas.

Other than that, I really liked the QB324s. And if they have been in stock at the time we wanted to buy more, we never would have designed our own boards to replace them. Funny the way things turn out.

High Light UV Board Edit.jpg
 
Airwalker16

Airwalker16

Well-Known Member
Prawn Connery said:
Yeah, it was the QB324 boards. They didn't come with nylon washers but they did come with button-head screws which, once secured, overlapped the copper trace underneath the solder mask. A few cycles of heating up and cooling down meant the aluminium board pressed up hard against the screw heads and ate through the solder mask into the copper, which shorted the board after about two weeks of use.

So there were really two issues: the board shouldn't have been designed with copper that close to the mounting holes to begin with, and if you're going to sell a board that is at risk of shorting out because the supplied screws overlap the copper layer, then you should be supplying nylon washers. But even nylon washers are not infallible, as if you over-tighten them you can split them.

The QB324s are high voltage boards, too – 108V if I recall correctly – so with two in series, that's 216V, and you don't want to get hit with that. So you'll understand why I wasn't too happy at the time. And why, when it came to designing our own boards, we mad esure there was plenty of clearance around the mounting holes. We even drew circles and lines on the boards to delineate the safe areas.

Other than that, I really liked the QB324s. And if they have been in stock at the time we wanted to buy more, we never would have designed our own boards to replace them. Funny the way things turn out.

View attachment 4543631
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I can appreciate the attention to the ratio of 3000K to 5000K being far far less than 1:1 like so many boards you see nowadays implementing. It's just too much Blue. Hell, even ChilLed grow craft has basically a 1:1.
 
Prawn Connery

Prawn Connery

Well-Known Member
If you're talking about the High Light boards, they have 60x 6500K Sunlike CRI95 UV LEDs, 90x Nichia Optisolis 2700K CRI98 and 300x Nichia V3F1 2700K CRI90 on each board for a total of 450 LEDs. I don't think you'll find anything like this on any single-channel production board. It's the only one we know of with full spectrum from 400-700+nm with a nice Far red tail on the end, too. These boards have proven themselves over and over. Not bad for a first effort, but as Isaac Newton said: "If I have seen further it is by standing on the shoulders of giants."

Production Board.png
 
Rocket Soul

Rocket Soul

Well-Known Member
Prawn Connery said:
If you're talking about the High Light boards, they have 60x 6500K Sunlike CRI95 UV LEDs, 90x Nichia Optisolis 2700K CRI98 and 300x Nichia V3F1 2700K CRI90 on each board for a total of 450 LEDs. I don't think you'll find anything like this on any single-channel production board. It's the only one we know of with full spectrum from 400-700+nm with a nice Far red tail on the end, too. These boards have proven themselves over and over. Not bad for a first effort, but as Isaac Newton said: "If I have seen further it is by standing on the shoulders of giants."

View attachment 4543636
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Hey prawn, hope your fine.
On the highlight uv, do you know, or approximate how much extra output around 420 you have in that spectrum?
And on the 324, i expect it was the middle screwholes (giggle) that had a problem with shorting?
 
Prawn Connery

Prawn Connery

Well-Known Member
Rocket Soul said:
Hey prawn, hope your fine.
On the highlight uv, do you know, or approximate how much extra output around 420 you have in that spectrum?
And on the 324, i expect it was the middle screwholes (giggle) that had a problem with shorting?
Click to expand...
From memory it was the edge holes. I think I have a thread about it somewhere here.

The Sunlike is a 415nm pump, so that's where it peaks. I haven't calculated the SPDs, so I don't know exactly how much 400-430nm there is, but looking at the test report it would be about 1.5-2%.

Screen Shot 2019-05-07 at 15.30.13.png
 
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