The Chinese Quantum Board Knock Off Builds

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Diddy147

Well-Known Member
So I have a kingbrite 480w ....lets call it 1st generation lol as they call them so many things. Now 3 grows in im over the moon with these lights. 4x288 boards all those little bits of light and I have 1 single led out....No complaints here lol.
Anyway I have been thinking of a few extra plans - as you do when you cant sit still. So The questions.....
How many boards only can they fit in a single shipping carton ? I would like to buy a few as spares for future.
Second question in my 4 board setup could I replace 1 board with a few strips - im thinking either 2 or 4 foot strips wired in series to each other and then linked into the parallel circuit that makes up the other 3 qb288s.....Does that make sense ? Has anyone done this ? Im thining in these uncertain times it might be easier just to get strips as we can use digikey ect who still appear to have stock.....
 
Rocket Soul

Rocket Soul

Well-Known Member
Fragile: on your placement issue: id rather think this issue as driver grouping, you should have edges and corners on separate drivers from the centre boards, with some extra power in edges and corners so you get even spread. Dim until you see even loght levels, then you can simply control more or less light by raising and lowering.
 
Airwalker16

Airwalker16

Well-Known Member
fragileassassin said:
Yeah im really liking the 5-3-3-5 option in the middle. If thats the one you mean
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Again, this is the way you want to do it. Just as you drew up in the last pic. You'll space the 2 middle rows of 3 a bit more from each other than the 2 rows of 5. Obviously the 2 240's you'll use for the 4 end boards of these rows. But you need to look at it as your canopy is actually 8X9 or even 10. Once you adequately light that area, the spots where numbers fall off drastically, won't have foliage under it.
I also wish we could swap all your board and drivers out for 48V boards and 48V CV drivers. All that voltage.....
 
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Airwalker16

Airwalker16

Well-Known Member
And the other thing, don't even think of making that whole thing one big fixture. You want some variability in hanging height if it's needed. Sometimes it's just too much to make the plant adjust to the height of the lights rather than the other way around. We've all been there.
 
fragileassassin

fragileassassin

Well-Known Member
Airwalker16 said:
And the other thing, don't even think of making that whole thing one big fixture. You want some variability in hanging height if it's needed. Sometimes it's just too much to make the plant adjust to the height of the lights rather than the other way around. We've all been there.
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Airwalker16 said:
Again, this is the way you want to do it. Just as you drew up in the last pic. You'll space the 2 middle rows of 3 a bit more from each other than the 2 rows of 5. Obviously the 2 240's you'll use for the 4 end boards of these rows. But you need to look at it as your canopy is actually 8X9 or even 10. Once you adequately light that area, the spots where numbers fall off drastically, won't have foliage under it.
I also wish we could swap all your board and drivers out for 48V boards and 48V CV drivers. All that voltage.....
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Yeah this is pretty much what I'm trying to do. I was talking about making each side solid not the whole thing, that would be a nightmare. It would be taking it to 2 fixtures instead of 4.
And tell me about it about the board voltage...... I've regretting buying those particular boards at times because of how limited I am for options. So many more things I could do with 288s because I could run them in series, but i have to run these all parallel unless i make my control box 220v.
My electrician friend said he should be able to get those fuse holders and fuses for me from his supply place pretty cheap. So thatll give me some piece of mind running a bunch of parallel setups.
 
GBAUTO

GBAUTO

Well-Known Member
catilio said:
Hi Guys. After reading 140+ pages I finally decided to buy from Kingbrite.

I bought 4x q288 v2 PCB only, because we (friend and I) wanted to test them out and pay just few bucks.
I thought that finding a piece of aluminum to act as a heat sink would be easy. Well, not in my country. I think i will be using a U-profile and two L-profiles (one on each side) to provide support and some heat transfer capability. I'm planning on join them using rods.

No wagos on my area. Also, no such thing as thermal conductive tape. Best option is to pick it up from Aliexpress (and wait bazzillion months to arrive).

The other option I saw here was to use an aluminum oven plate. I think I can get one of those for 10bucks each. My buddy is not so convinced though.

At least we secured a provider for the drivers here in Chile (We'll be buying either a 240H-48B or AB), so we can have 7 years warranty.

We will take 2 boards each, and I'll probably buy 2 more to cover 3x3 or 4x2 on a room i'm about to start to upgrade.

Now that I think about it, the whole ready to use kit option was nice...but we bought 4 PCB for the price of just 2x 120w kits. You cannot beat the math.
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Keeping the boards cool requires some thermal mass that they can transfer heat into. From what I can remember about the typical 288 diode board, 50 watts/board is the max with no additional sink so you're going to be getting a bit warm @ 60w/board.
 
ilovereggae

ilovereggae

Well-Known Member
Hey @Rocket Soul and @fragileassassin got a question for you both, related to Rocket's original suggestions and Assasin's recent board layout posts. TLDR = in Assasin's layout it looks like he was putting the softer run boards on the corners as opposed to the middle? I am thinking about adding some more boards into my closet and was thinking the softer run ones should go in the middle instead?

My setup in the 5x4' closet is going well with the 2) 300x1000mm heatsinks w 4) 288v1 each and a hlg 240H-c1050 driver. Ive been monitoring my RH and all is well. My AC Infinity exhaust is only running at speed 3 and I can keep it under 55% easy. Slight spike after feeding but it drops within an hour. So going to go for the 3rd fixture.

What Im thinking of doing is putting my hlg120 54a to run the 2 outer boards in parallel @ 60W to match the other 2 heatsinks. Then the 2 boards in the middle would be run @ 40w each on a hlg 80h 58a in parallel... (I just got the 80h for a veg cab but thinking it is overkill for clones and seedlings). I guess I could just get another 120 for the middle 2 boards and dim it but this way seems more efficient. My only concern is it won't be enough power, but it seems like the middle would get plenty of spill over from the other boards around it. I guess I need to get a proper light meter to dial it in either way.
 

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fragileassassin

fragileassassin

Well-Known Member
I will be changing mine to some kind of staggered 5-3-3-5 setup to get a better spread of light around the edges with the 4 boards in the corners run 15w higher.
Its late and I cant math much after my meds, but from what I can see from your diagram, that is plenty of light for your space, and setting it up like that should work well from what ive learned with mine and from the discussion so far.
 
Airwalker16

Airwalker16

Well-Known Member
ilovereggae said:
Hey @Rocket Soul and @fragileassassin got a question for you both, related to Rocket's original suggestions and Assasin's recent board layout posts. TLDR = in Assasin's layout it looks like he was putting the softer run boards on the corners as opposed to the middle? I am thinking about adding some more boards into my closet and was thinking the softer run ones should go in the middle instead?

My setup in the 5x4' closet is going well with the 2) 300x1000mm heatsinks w 4) 288v1 each and a hlg 240H-c1050 driver. Ive been monitoring my RH and all is well. My AC Infinity exhaust is only running at speed 3 and I can keep it under 55% easy. Slight spike after feeding but it drops within an hour. So going to go for the 3rd fixture.

What Im thinking of doing is putting my hlg120 54a to run the 2 outer boards in parallel @ 60W to match the other 2 heatsinks. Then the 2 boards in the middle would be run @ 40w each on either a hlg 80h 58a in parallel... (I just got the 80h for a veg cab but thinking it is overkill for clones and seedlings). I guess I could just get another 120 for the middle 2 boards and dim it but this way seems more efficient. My only concern is it won't be enough power, but it seems like the middle would get plenty of spill over from the other boards around it. I guess I need to get a proper light meter to dial it in either way.
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I can say that's be one even spread.
 
bigmikey86

bigmikey86

Well-Known Member
borban72 said:
Hey mates ... Anybody have experience with Geeklight ... quite promissing theri PAR map and the a user's video I found

WHAT DO YOU THINK?
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It’s tough to trust the supplied par maps from a Chinese supplier. They do seem to have a pretty nifty app that allows you to control channels separately though. When I checked it out it looked like you could set up timers for each channel as well. I went with KB and I’m pretty happy. Meijiu is solid too as other growers have posted. It’s all what floats your boat good man.
 
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christopher jordan

Well-Known Member
bigmikey86 said:
It’s tough to trust the supplied par maps from a Chinese supplier. They do seem to have a pretty nifty app that allows you to control channels separately though. When I checked it out it looked like you could set up timers for each channel as well. I went with KB and I’m pretty happy. Meijiu is solid too as other growers have posted. It’s all what floats your boat good man.
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Also two 320w kits will cover way better.
 
Airwalker16

Airwalker16

Well-Known Member
Thickness of heatsinks is a big deal. 50% thicker is a big deal. Meiju for the win. KB use 10mm or are they using the better 15mm thick heatsinks base?
 
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