Tags High Efficiency Lighting Garden
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RedCarpetMatches
Well-Known Member
Very nice...talking about the SG and tent only
tags420
Well-Known Member
Holy Fuck son...I can feel the intensity from here. I think a 4x4 might be your next buy before at the next light. I can only imagine the growth under all those sexy lights.
I told you the new AT's are a totally new class of light power...imagine how the plants feel...come flower they will be thanking you with the biggest buds possible.
Nichia has and always will be better than cree...that's why Apache uses them(big important clients want the best, tent growers want cree). I will just say that AT made an AT200 with xt-e's to test...Apache is still using Nichia and even more proud of it. Spectrum, output, and efficiency...all better with Nichia's.Very nice...talking about the SGs
Cree's are cheaper and much more accessible to the public, but that is it. Apache isn't the public, when all you care about is getting the best...it's all about Nichia baby.
RedCarpetMatches
Well-Known Member
Ha I was just poking and being corny. You're absolutely right. Love seeing people making the big jump. I just got 2 SGs and I'm pumped! I have my panel 10" away from my seedlings hitting em hard. My ladies grow up in the hardknock
only prob I'm having is heat in the basement. I'm not going to add ugly inefficient CFLs ugh. I just put a space heater on low and it's 78 at canapy. I've never been so excited for veg lol. And big props Puff!!
tags420
Well-Known Member
I answered your bleaching question in the new to thread. 10" is way too close...what were your plans for flower if at 10" for veg?? You may think that they can take it but more light is not always good...there is a reason it is called optimal condition...not as much as possible no matter what the plant wants. 20"-30" in veg then 18" in flower, maybe 15" at the closesest...but that is after they have been vegged for X amount of time plus started flower under optimal light, then work your way down, but optimal is @~18" for flower.Ha I was just poking and being corny. You're absolutely right. Love seeing people making the big jump. I just got 2 SGs and I'm pumped! I have my panel 10" away from my seedlings hitting em hard. My ladies grow up in the hardknock
DJwinbo had a really small cab and by the end of flower they were about 15" from the panel...but they sure didn't start that way. He is the only one with good results with such a low panel...and again, he didn't start that low...the plants grew up there and he had no more height to raise his light. By the time they got there they were acclimated.
Would you put a 1000w hps 10" from your seedling???
RedCarpetMatches
Well-Known Member
Thanks but they weren't bleached...derp. It was just my somewhat color blindness lol. They are growing fine actually. I've planted seedlings in scorching summer light before as an experiment with no ill results. I figure I'm at around 1000 umols...need a meter. If they are doing well should I change the distance? Of course I'll raise it as they grow. Any advice is appreciated.
tags420
Well-Known Member
You will raise it as they grow...but will the distance between the light and top of canopy change?? At 10" they are getting about1400µmols with very little bio mass(growth) to use and distribute it all too. So were you going to drop it to 6" to get a flower boost is what I was asking(But don't recommend, I already think you are on the wrong track)
You can do what you want...but it is not optimal for your plants. Yes beans will grow under intense condition if given them from the start, something clones can't do. But it does not mean it is optimal or doing you more positive than neutral/negative. Weather bleaching or not, they don't that much light...and will not use it. It will spend as much energy protecting it's self as it will growing. There is a actual science to what makes plants grow best...and or favorite little ganja plant is not an exception to this science.
400-700µmols for veg is plenty and ideal. Once they are well established and actual bushing to filling the whole area towards the end of veg, then full flower power is good to get them ready, but not what they want from the beginning.
RedCarpetMatches
Well-Known Member
This is exactly why I love this forum! Thank you. I actually received an email from A51 and they told me 20-24" for seedlings. Once plant has matured drop to 18-20". Finally, 18" in flower. Seems a bit on the safe side.
I've never actually researched how much a seedling can handle. I'm so used to watching stretch and signs. Going to look into this when I get time. Thanks again.
I've never actually researched how much a seedling can handle. I'm so used to watching stretch and signs. Going to look into this when I get time. Thanks again.
hyroot
Well-Known Member
Can I sleep in your tent? lol
tags420
Well-Known Member
More trichome protection was not really what I was getting at. I'm talking fresh seedlings and young babies in veg(they have trichomes but not like in flower). It's more like an internal shut down when the light gets so intense, stunted, light shock, what ever you want to call it. Then when the bleaching and light burn happens those leaves/area of the plant are done for and there is no coming back. Matter gets destroyed faster than it grows.Cannabis "protecting" itself^^^ is exactly what we want(potency) as growers though
Do you have any idea when there releasing the cheaper(housing) Apache?
I haven't heard anything about the housing change. Probably just blowing smoke at me back then. But specially now I know they are really working on at600 stuff. Many more new thing involved in that.
$750 for the at200 is the best that is going to happen for a while.
RedCarpetMatches
Well-Known Member
I gotta get off these LED threads before I go bankrupt. C'mon harvest!
tags420
Well-Known Member
I got a little anxious while trying to pop the globe off. I'm sure I'm not the only one to do this, and I even told myself to be careful. I stratched the primary lens off 3 of the chips...but at least they were the xt-e's!! I had to do 25min@230* and could have one a minute longer so it was easier.
G17, G4. G5 are the ones I messed up. But it wasn't so bad that they are blue...just barley see a dot of blue through one of them.
G17, G4. G5 are the ones I messed up. But it wasn't so bad that they are blue...just barley see a dot of blue through one of them.
tags420
Well-Known Member
I forgot to say I didn't notice anything in output increase. I wasn't as setup/scientific but the number when in the reflector was about the same. So if there is no output difference really, then the globes protection is worth leaving it.
So it is definitely not a good idea if using the TW cree's because you will loose the cri(and thus the 660nm gain) basically???
So it is definitely not a good idea if using the TW cree's because you will loose the cri(and thus the 660nm gain) basically???
hyroot
Well-Known Member
I think if and when I grab any a19's. I'm going to try the Philips ones. Same lumens and cri as Cree but 10.5 w. 6 year warranty. Cheaper than Cree. Haven't found a spectrum chart yet. If it's the same led's on the 18w par lights. Then they're good.
Philips stock has gone up while Cree stock has gone down. But Philips stock is $35. Cree is $60.
Philips stock has gone up while Cree stock has gone down. But Philips stock is $35. Cree is $60.
tags420
Well-Known Member
All the led house lights(any brand) are really cool and seem to have a big edge over cfl's. But they are all pretty much the same. If they were using high bin chips there would really be some great bulbs for more than just veg(enough of them and the flower fine as we know...captain). When using low/average bins, they are all basically the same. I never really planned on growing with them, just clones/beans/really early veg. So just being a big improvement over cfl's is good enough for me.
I will put the crees in my whole house. As dumb/jewish(no offense) as it sound...1/3 the lighting cost in my house is cool to me. I would rather spend the other 2/3 on my AT's(or jacuzi). I will be using the TW for the house...taking advantage of what CRI is actually good for...me seeing.
My clone lights(used to be cfl) run 24hr/day...saving 2/3 the energy adds up. You get to run a for cree's 3hr for the same price as a cfl for 1hr.
I will put the crees in my whole house. As dumb/jewish(no offense) as it sound...1/3 the lighting cost in my house is cool to me. I would rather spend the other 2/3 on my AT's(or jacuzi). I will be using the TW for the house...taking advantage of what CRI is actually good for...me seeing.
My clone lights(used to be cfl) run 24hr/day...saving 2/3 the energy adds up. You get to run a for cree's 3hr for the same price as a cfl for 1hr.
Abiqua
Well-Known Member
One thing I have noticed tonight after messing around with mine, is how uneven the coating is on the bulb. One has nearly half a side which is very thin coating and I can see the diodes inside much more clearly than the other bulb.
I think it kind of just goes back to what you are saying about using low bins in these. They are great lights, and these are some of the 1st generation of bulbs where you can walk in/walk out with a working LED solution from any Depot/Menard's/ etc. I definitely liked the look of the light when I fired them up and I think I found a replacement for every fucking incandescent I own forever, at the very least.
...and I put up in my post, the the Cree 9.5's are $8 online at HD. So there's that. How low can they go....[sings song in head]
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but who cares! the AT 200 .........sick! [drool-face]
hyroot
Well-Known Member
I was wrong about the cri on philips. Its higher than cree, 85 cri
http://www.usa.philips.com/c/led-lig...specifications
http://www.usa.philips.com/c/led-lig...specifications
PSUAGRO.
Well-Known Member
"lifetime of lamp == 2000hrs!!" lol.........no one @ philips noticed that?