Switching from HPS to LED mid-flower?

GrOwThMoNgeR

GrOwThMoNgeR

Well-Known Member
ÒÒlegilizeitÒÒ said:
You and I have a very similar grow style right now lol
I flipped jan 28th and also have a double trellis scrog and I shwazzed them at flip.
I used that time to spray her down with neem oil as a preventitive, that way I could get all the remaining leafs and the trunk well.
Click to expand...
I love the light penetration, I am considering not defoliating schwazzy the second time idk, we'll see on day 21
 
firsttimeARE

firsttimeARE

Well-Known Member
Yeah definitely thrips. You usually notice the damage first.

Spots of chlorophyll missing with black specs next to it. The black specs are the thrips frass. The leaf damage is from them feeding on your leaves.

Also are burning them with such high of a nutrient feed.

I can see some in one of the pictures
 
GrOwThMoNgeR

GrOwThMoNgeR

Well-Known Member
firsttimeARE said:
Yeah definitely thrips. You usually notice the damage first.

Spots of chlorophyll missing with black specs next to it. The black specs are the thrips frass. The leaf damage is from them feeding on your leaves.

Also are burning them with such high of a nutrient feed.

I can see some in one of the pictures
Click to expand...
I brought down the feeding and all is ok. The thrips can eat as long as they take it easy like they are. I'm not spraying her. I have a 1.2 ec which is as high as she will get then bringing down for last two weeks which will be second half of this month.
 
calvin.m16

calvin.m16

Well-Known Member
GrOwThMoNgeR said:
PH has been steady 5.9 and ec 1.2 so been really happy after buying 125L of distilled water for about 80 Krona ;-) and the plant is recovering and bulking. Just been seeing a little thrip damage so not too worried as they aren't so bad to turn the leaves colors like in another smaller tent o_O.
View attachment 4815978View attachment 4815979
So I've finally had to start tying branches to maximize light penetration and prevent them from floppy donging.

The schwazzy tent has recovered really well despite the attack by mold mites while they were weak from schwazzing. In retrospect, to avoid stressing them so much would also prevent attacks while weakened as bugs like weak plants. I am hoping for a decent harvest despite the problems.
View attachment 4815981That is today and here is what it looked like before on the 19th of Jan:

View attachment 4815985
and here is what it looked like 4 days after schwazz under heavy attack:
View attachment 4815991
Have a great weekend and will update soon! :)
Click to expand...
Your plants are covered in White Powdery Mildew..
 
calvin.m16

calvin.m16

Well-Known Member
GrOwThMoNgeR said:
Today everything already recovering and leaves coming. Looks soooo much better than yesterday. In switching to LED on other tent I believe I light burned them :( I raised the lights as high as they'll go but damn looks pretty bad. Didn't realize these 240s were that strong at 60% even though I have humidity dialed in both tents to 65% and temps at 79 and 81 for good vpd, still burning. View attachment 4803296
I hope raising the lights prevents future burns.
Click to expand...
Those whitish silvery specks all on the inner parts of your leaves is insect damage. Probably Thrips. Also the other pictures had powdery mildew.
 
Kdoggy

Kdoggy

Well-Known Member
GrOwThMoNgeR said:
Today everything already recovering and leaves coming. Looks soooo much better than yesterday. In switching to LED on other tent I believe I light burned them :( I raised the lights as high as they'll go but damn looks pretty bad. Didn't realize these 240s were that strong at 60% even though I have humidity dialed in both tents to 65% and temps at 79 and 81 for good vpd, still burning. View attachment 4803296
I hope raising the lights prevents future burns.
Click to expand...
Humidity is way to high if your running 65% you need it 40% or your gonna get pm and looking at that pic on jan 23 you probably do.
 
calvin.m16

calvin.m16

Well-Known Member
Higher humidity as @Kdoggy said is going to be a big risky move in Bloom. You really want to keep the humidity between 40-45% in Bloom and around 50-55% in VEG. As for temps if you're running LED you want your lights on temps to be 75-80 F and with HPS you should try staying around 75 F if possible.

Those white patches on the leaves definitely are powdery mildew. Your environment needs to be handled and you should incorporate a preventative spray seeing as you've already been attacked by thrips. Don't feel bad I had thrips this winter in Michigan...
  • The specking/spotting that is silvery/white on your inside part of your leaves is from under-leaf bugs eating away at your plants. If you look with a magnifying glass you will probably spot some little buggers.
  • You do have what appears to be White Powdery Mildew and that is usually due to cross-contamination from other growers/gardens/plants or too high of humidity and too low of temperatures, especially at night time.. Try to keep your night temps no lower than 65 F and day temps no higher than 75 to prevent your humidity & temperature from fluctuating so much in your grow space.

The best preventative spray I have used yet. (Divide dosing into whatever size sprayer you have if your not mixing a gallon at a time)
1 gallon sprayer
1 gallon water
2 teaspoons dish soap
2 Tablespoons neem oil

Shake during spraying and thoughroughlly cover the bottoms of the leaves working with each plant at a time, do bottoms of all leaves and then tops of all leaves. Discontinue spraying once budlets form (Week 2 Flower) and you should be okay, if any issues do arise you can always spray the plants using a product like Plant Therapy or Green Cleaner up to the last week of bloom.

NEEM OIL by itself with dish soap helps keep away powdery mildew and most insects. Just make sure to spray the bottoms of your leaves THEN the tops so they don't droop down protecting any bugs living under the leaf surface.

The Dish soap in the neem oil makes the Neem OIL mix with the water so you can actually spray it. Also, I'm sure it has some bug killing properties as well as bacteria etc...

Good luck bro ask any questions I'm not trying to hate on your grow just stating what I can obviously see.
 
calvin.m16

calvin.m16

Well-Known Member
Too many pests, insects & diseases flourish in high humidity so I keep my VPD around 1.0-1.5 and always avoid temperatures above 80 F and humidity above 50% in bloom.
 
GrOwThMoNgeR

GrOwThMoNgeR

Well-Known Member
calvin.m16 said:
Higher humidity as @Kdoggy said is going to be a big risky move in Bloom. You really want to keep the humidity between 40-45% in Bloom and around 50-55% in VEG. As for temps if you're running LED you want your lights on temps to be 75-80 F and with HPS you should try staying around 75 F if possible.

Those white patches on the leaves definitely are powdery mildew. Your environment needs to be handled and you should incorporate a preventative spray seeing as you've already been attacked by thrips. Don't feel bad I had thrips this winter in Michigan...
  • The specking/spotting that is silvery/white on your inside part of your leaves is from under-leaf bugs eating away at your plants. If you look with a magnifying glass you will probably spot some little buggers.
  • You do have what appears to be White Powdery Mildew and that is usually due to cross-contamination from other growers/gardens/plants or too high of humidity and too low of temperatures, especially at night time.. Try to keep your night temps no lower than 65 F and day temps no higher than 75 to prevent your humidity & temperature from fluctuating so much in your grow space.

The best preventative spray I have used yet. (Divide dosing into whatever size sprayer you have if your not mixing a gallon at a time)
1 gallon sprayer
1 gallon water
2 teaspoons dish soap
2 Tablespoons neem oil

Shake during spraying and thoughroughlly cover the bottoms of the leaves working with each plant at a time, do bottoms of all leaves and then tops of all leaves. Discontinue spraying once budlets form (Week 2 Flower) and you should be okay, if any issues do arise you can always spray the plants using a product like Plant Therapy or Green Cleaner up to the last week of bloom.

NEEM OIL by itself with dish soap helps keep away powdery mildew and most insects. Just make sure to spray the bottoms of your leaves THEN the tops so they don't droop down protecting any bugs living under the leaf surface.

The Dish soap in the neem oil makes the Neem OIL mix with the water so you can actually spray it. Also, I'm sure it has some bug killing properties as well as bacteria etc...

Good luck bro ask any questions I'm not trying to hate on your grow just stating what I can obviously see.
Click to expand...
Hey the problem is they are almost ready (3.5 weeks) and can't spray without affecting bud quality. Any other tips for pm? I use keefir outside but scared to indoors so close to harvest.
 
calvin.m16

calvin.m16

Well-Known Member
GrOwThMoNgeR said:
Hey the problem is they are almost ready (3.5 weeks) and can't spray without affecting bud quality. Any other tips for pm? I use keefir outside but scared to indoors so close to harvest.
Click to expand...
During flower I use Lost Coast Plant Therapy.

Amazon.com : Lost Coast Plant Therapy Plant Wash 12 OZ : Garden & Outdoor

Amazon.com : Lost Coast Plant Therapy Plant Wash 12 OZ : Garden & Outdoor
www.amazon.com

Its basically peppermint oil, isopropyl alcohol, citric acid, soap (emulsifier) and soybean oil. Mix your sprayer 1oz/gal of water and spray plants until all leaves are dripping once every 2 days until plants are cured. Honestly with Plant Therapy I had really bad white powdery mildew one time before I started growing in a completely sealed room and I would spray the plants and once I turned the lights back on the mildew would be gone and there'd be dead yellowish circles on the leaves from where the powdery mildew was living and growing shroom spores.

We have too many growers in Michigan now that its recreational so you basically gotta do a sealed grow because once everyones plants start getting mold/mildew those spores are going to fly through the air and into your shit. I wanna burn this place near me down they legit exhaust out their hoods and I know someone who works in there. THey told him to spray the flowers with Eagle 20 EW which is a neuro-toxin that smells like car paint..

So basically that grow facility is just dumping their contaminated air out for everyone to deal with and poisoning their consumers with a product meant for golf course grass to walk on.


Pretty awesome. In the future formulate yourself a weekly foliar spray an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure.

You can get very awesome results from different foliar blends. I forgot to mention I always add these 2 products into my foliar sprays @ 15ml/gal.

Better Together - Humic Acid and Seaweed for Increased Yields

Nitrozime and Fossil Fuel are better together! Combining a humic acid and seaweed extract can result in impressive plant growth and increased yields
www.hydrodynamicsintl.com www.hydrodynamicsintl.com

When they say "Better Yields" that is an understatement you'll get faster veg, healthier veg, bigger & faster yields and more.. It's legit like feeding your plant crack once a week. Not that I've done that. lol
 
Last edited:
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top