Stop cutting your clone stems at a 45! There's a better way to get a white beard growing.

Cannaclysmic Events said:

The cross cut is what creates the even distribution and rock solid 360 anchoring from top of soil down

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Here's my results so far. I cut two on 6/9 and one rooted really well and I was able to take it out of the cloner tonight. I could have done it a couple days ago but I wanted to see how the roots developed at the two cut points. The other one that I don't think I pierced the skin on with the second cut still has not rooted but I'm leaving it in and just changed out the reservoir. I also cut about a half dozen clones this way a couple nights ago just for practice as I was getting rid of the mother plants and need practice with cloning. I'll let you know how they do. This one has better roots than my average clones I must say and was quicker getting them. I struggle to get roots but it's getting better the more I do it. Thanks for trying to help people with this.

FirstCavApache64 said:

Here's my results so far. I cut two on 6/9 and one rooted really well and I was able to take it out of the cloner tonight. I could have done it a couple days ago but I wanted to see how the roots developed at the two cut points. The other one that I don't think I pierced the skin on with the second cut still has not rooted but I'm leaving it in and just changed out the reservoir. I also cut about a half dozen clones this way a couple nights ago just for practice as I was getting rid of the mother plants and need practice with cloning. I'll let you know how they do. This one has better roots than my average clones I must say and was quicker getting them. I struggle to get roots but it's getting better the more I do it. Thanks for trying to help people with this.View attachment 5153290

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Hey that's great dude! Thanks for sharing. Seems like you're getting the hang of it. Keep in mind this is optimization, you may not see the full benefit until it's buried in a medium. But she's throwing some garden hoses out for ya!
I sketched out what I've been doing on the last few sets of cuts I made. I think I can do away with the scraped area all together. I'm getting good roots at each crimp point and really big feeders developing on the top at soul surface! 1

I'm all about trying new things to improve my grow and this one's free, my favorite price.

rocketdog1989 said:

I found that when the mothers start getting old, like 8 months to a year, they start to produce weaker clones. I noticed that they root bind so bad in 5 gallon buckets and its hard to keep them from out growing everything. I find that clones from a middle aged mother that is healthy and no signs of weird yellowing, crispy ends, etc does a lot better at rooting. I start to notice clone failures at around 6 to 7 months starting to root bind mothers. It's best to keep at least 1 clone to start mothers over so you don't end up with one of many cloning failures you will run into when you first start. I take the old mothers and transplant them into larger buckets and flower them out. They have always produced very little quality bud when they get old.

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Had a plant for over 15 years and it still make great clones, and it has been revegged and flowered so many times I quit believing myths. The shit is dank and as dank as it was originally. Every once in a while a clone of it smells different, usually lemons but occasionally a fruity berry smell like candy. Revegged that fruity one and it made lemony clones. Weird but if I didn't see it personally I would not believe it.

I just took two trays of cuts on the 16th and intentionally made 90 degree cuts and everything rooted slower than usual, except I didnt have a control tray to compare. This is with 15 different strains.

waterproof808 said:

I just took two trays of cuts on the 16th and intentionally made 90 degree cuts and everything rooted slower than usual, except I didnt have a control tray to compare. This is with 15 different strains.

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Did you sanitize the stem before cut?
Did you use sterile, sharp, scissors as described?
Did you use those to also make the crimp cut in the bark above the severed cut?
Did you soak in clonex to?

Cannaclysmic Events said:

Did you sanitize the stem before cut?
Did you use sterile, sharp, scissors as described?
Did you use those to also make the crimp cut in the bark above the severed cut?
Did you soak in clonex to?

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All that has zero to do with not “cutting clone stems at 45 degrees” which is the title of the thread.
It sounds like the angle of the cut is the least important variable in your process, which many people, including myself, have said since the beginning of this thread.

waterproof808 said:

All that has zero to do with not “cutting clone stems at 45 degrees” which is the title of the thread.
It sounds like the angle of the cut is the least important variable in your process, which many people, including myself, have said since the beginning of this thread.

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Right, because the cut exists in a vacuum and is not effected by sloppy or neglent routine mechanical tasks or poorly applied aseptic technique. Right? Those things I asked speak to the fundamentals of the process, regardless how you do it. If those are neglected any observations inherently hold no confidence. One of those questions asked about a specific tool utilized also, thats kinda important maybe. This is how trouble shooting works, you start with the low hanging fruit. Should be pointed out you failed to answer a single one. I know, you thought your snappy fallacy of argument made those obsolete, wrong again champ.

Titles are tricky aren't they sport? Sound so sure of themselves and sometimes in all capital letters finished with a ! But, there is often more to be discovered in the rest of the post if you dare to dream beyond it. Wtf dude really? But let's go ahead and put that title on trial anywho. I'll do it properly for you right now...admittedly so I can dismantle this at the same time, "sounds like the angle of the cut is the least important variable in your process, which many people, including myself, have said since the beginning of this thread."
So you've been wrong from the start and you seem proud of it? This might sting...

Once again, the type, angle, and placement of the cuts, made with the right tool, is cornerstone in the development of a uniform halo of roots. To understand why you need to understand that the Legos making that stalk aren't just piled in there. They are organized and stacked, put in place with each new cell division. Cells divide in planes, this helps maintain the symmetry of the organism as new tissue is added. Ever watch a seedling grow? Or seen that damn near perfectly round knob where the branch got bent and healed? The idea behind a 45 cut exposing more surface area to root is effectively giving the plant an angled plane to repair that doesn't jive with it's symmetry, or gravity for that matter. Sure, you can get rat tail starts with it.
I prefer an anchor. You can guess which one got the 45.

Cannaclysmic Events said:

Right, because the cut exists in a vacuum and is not effected by sloppy or neglent routine mechanical tasks or poorly applied aseptic technique. Right? Those things I asked speak to the fundamentals of the process, regardless how you do it. If those are neglected any observations inherently hold no confidence. One of those questions asked about a specific tool utilized also, thats kinda important maybe. This is how trouble shooting works, you start with the low hanging fruit. Should be pointed out you failed to answer a single one. I know, you thought your snappy fallacy of argument made those obsolete, wrong again champ.

Titles are tricky aren't they sport? Sound so sure of themselves and sometimes in all capital letters finished with a ! But, there is often more to be discovered in the rest of the post if you dare to dream beyond it. Wtf dude really? But let's go ahead and put that title on trial anywho. I'll do it properly for you right now...admittedly so I can dismantle this at the same time, "sounds like the angle of the cut is the least important variable in your process, which many people, including myself, have said since the beginning of this thread."
So you've been wrong from the start and you seem proud of it? This might sting...

Once again, the type, angle, and placement of the cuts, made with the right tool, is cornerstone in the development of a uniform halo of roots. To understand why you need to understand that the Legos making that stalk aren't just piled in there. They are organized and stacked, put in place with each new cell division. Cells divide in planes, this helps maintain the symmetry of the organism as new tissue is added. Ever watch a seedling grow? Or seen that damn near perfectly round knob where the branch got bent and healed? The idea behind a 45 cut exposing more surface area to root is effectively giving the plant an angled plane to repair that doesn't jive with it's symmetry, or gravity for that matter. Sure, you can get rat tail starts with it.
I prefer an anchor. You can guess which one got the 45.
View attachment 5162026View attachment 5162027

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45° 4 lyfe

bk78 said:

45° 4 lyfe

View attachment 5162123

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Nicely done. My concern that this structure, despite its excellent mass, has a tendency to spiral. You can see it beginning bottom right corner already. But I'm fairly certain you do a solid up pot that will correct that issue. Again, this isn't rooting 101, or how to get some faster, this is pushing the plant and maxing out type stuff for nerds like me that get high in labs.

Cannaclysmic Events said:

Right, because the cut exists in a vacuum and is not effected by sloppy or neglent routine mechanical tasks or poorly applied aseptic technique. Right? Those things I asked speak to the fundamentals of the process, regardless how you do it. If those are neglected any observations inherently hold no confidence. One of those questions asked about a specific tool utilized also, thats kinda important maybe. This is how trouble shooting works, you start with the low hanging fruit. Should be pointed out you failed to answer a single one. I know, you thought your snappy fallacy of argument made those obsolete, wrong again champ.

Titles are tricky aren't they sport? Sound so sure of themselves and sometimes in all capital letters finished with a ! But, there is often more to be discovered in the rest of the post if you dare to dream beyond it. Wtf dude really? But let's go ahead and put that title on trial anywho. I'll do it properly for you right now...admittedly so I can dismantle this at the same time, "sounds like the angle of the cut is the least important variable in your process, which many people, including myself, have said since the beginning of this thread."
So you've been wrong from the start and you seem proud of it? This might sting...

Once again, the type, angle, and placement of the cuts, made with the right tool, is cornerstone in the development of a uniform halo of roots. To understand why you need to understand that the Legos making that stalk aren't just piled in there. They are organized and stacked, put in place with each new cell division. Cells divide in planes, this helps maintain the symmetry of the organism as new tissue is added. Ever watch a seedling grow? Or seen that damn near perfectly round knob where the branch got bent and healed? The idea behind a 45 cut exposing more surface area to root is effectively giving the plant an angled plane to repair that doesn't jive with it's symmetry, or gravity for that matter. Sure, you can get rat tail starts with it.
I prefer an anchor. You can guess which one got the 45.
View attachment 5162026View attachment 5162027

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my cloning process is a lot more aseptic than those fingernails.

I just bite off the branches to take my clones. 200% success ratio and I’ve successfully met the scientific process. I’m a scientist and my method is what we call predictable and repeatable. I can chew off branches all day.

This picture was from only 3 hours after taking the clone.



Proof biting off branches is better than the antiquated 45 degree cut and the dog nail clipper cut. Get with the times.

waterproof808 said:

I just took two trays of cuts on the 16th and intentionally made 90 degree cuts and everything rooted slower than usual, except I didnt have a control tray to compare. This is with 15 different strains.

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What color were the laves of the plant when you took cuttings? Dark green=helluva long time to root. Light green (hungry)=best time to take a cutting, will root much faster. Nitrogen inhibits rooting if it is in excess in the foliage of the cutting. Cut your feedings a week or two before you want to take cuttings, or mist them regularly for a week or two before taking cuttings, misting them with RO water will leach nitrogen from the plant leaves and making rooting happen faster. This is great advice and is to all, not necessarily aimed at you just was a good post to respond to.

twentyeight.threefive said:

I just bite off the branches to take my clones. 200% success ratio and I’ve successfully met the scientific process. I’m a scientist and my method is what we call predictable and repeatable. I can chew off branches all day.

This picture was from only 3 hours after taking the clone.

View attachment 5165478

Proof biting off branches is better than the antiquated 45 degree cut and the dog nail clipper cut. Get with the times.

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nice roots bro, plz share your true technique.

nonamedman420 said:

What color were the laves of the plant when you took cuttings? Dark green=helluva long time to root. Light green (hungry)=best time to take a cutting, will root much faster. Nitrogen inhibits rooting if it is in excess in the foliage of the cutting. Cut your feedings a week or two before you want to take cuttings, or mist them regularly for a week or two before taking cuttings, misting them with RO water will leach nitrogen from the plant leaves and making rooting happen faster. This is great advice and is to all, not necessarily aimed at you just was a good post to respond to.

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My regular cloning technique works fine, I just wanted to see if the angle of the cut made any difference and it was slower to root than I normally see. I’ll just go back to doing what i always do instead of trying to fix what ain’t broken.

I'm othaving luck after 3 tries using CK36 & following their instructions. Any ideas?

I think the angled cut has more to do with inserting the cutting into cloning medium without derstroying the openings to the vascular tubes by trying to squeeze a blunt end into a tight hole

lol @ 4 pages on cloning.

ANC said:

I think the angled cut has more to do with inserting the cutting into cloning medium without derstroying the openings to the vascular tubes by trying to squeeze a blunt end into a tight hole

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I always make a larger hole so I can put my cuttings in and not rub off the gel with a coat of powder. Then stick the blade of my little Swiss Army knife a half cm away and push the soil tight against the stem in a few spots. Then a good few spritzes of water to make sure it's good and wet around the stem and wait a week or so for roots. I'll keep them in a dome off to the side from my grow light. Spray inside the dome twice a day but no spray on the plants themselves.

I do snip the cuttings off at a 45° with the Fiskars but more out of habit that actual need really. I try to make sure there is at least one node under the screened ProMix HP I use for medium. Don't recall the last time I lost a clone.

waterproof808 said:

my cloning process is a lot more aseptic than those fingernails.

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Well I should hope so! That's a HUGE point of aseptic technique; to stop transfer from non sterile human hands to the subject being worked on: literally the point of it, a terrible one executed in a Tijuana Notell bathroom should prove more aseptic than a surgeons fingernails. But I wasn't making any cuts that day, just money. So you just laid a magnificent turd of an ad hominem, even your death rattle is weak AF