stealth speaker build - 2 light proofing questions...please help!

Hello,
This is my third or fourth inside grow. i gutted a 23" x 10" (internal dimensions). This is the first project like this I've done so bear with me anyway i cut off the back door and replaced it with a lighter door made from pressed plywood (somewhat sturdier than the straight up pressed wood). I painted it flat white, installed a fan, and ran weather stripping along the inside of the door(see pics). So I left the upper speaker portion (uncovered by the mesh covering) so that some air could circulate. But when I turn the lights off, it is definitely not light proof on the backside door, and also in the front, where the "exhaust" (no fan just an opening) is. i had an engineering fail because i had to add an extra slim part to the door so the hinge nails would go all the way through. it doesnt open fully but it does open wide enough.

Any suggestions on lightproofing the front part (circular)? Maybe I could cover that part of the mesh/removable part and lave the circle (grill is attached to the speaker). OR something about panty hose? i really dont know if i have the room do a micro light trap

Here is the backside (door): and, any suggestionson securing the backdoor to the speaker? it takes very little effort to close it, but it won't stay closed....any help would be appreciated... TIA!!


!!
pic 1 (light son)
pic 2 (lights off
pic 3 (front of speaker with screen leaking light)
pic 4-5 (door hinges with weather striping all around the edge)

PS. This is only for one plant!

try to get a fitting the turns 90 degrees, you can add a filter hood as well, its looks like a regular tube but there are shutters on it to keep light from bouncing outwards. also, using carbon screen or making a carbon filter on the outside could help and your going to probably need it if you dont want your plants to reek up the place.

the vent i included isnt a fitting but just to give you and idea of what i mean, however the ventilation attachment is made to not let light escape and it lets out air flow at a different angle due to the blinds. also, if you get these in a reflective color, it might be a good idea to spray the internal part black so light doesn't reflect

I'll let you in on a secert I found out. That mesh will kill your air flow and temps will rise fast. Once I removed the mesh on my box temps went from 95+ down to 85 and I was able to add more light. But with such a tight space bro you gota get crafty. Look up light proof methods on here. You could use cardboard pieces glued together or styrofoam. Your door though i don't know what to say. Did you put weather stripping all around that? You really gota think every last thing through when going into a project like this. When I built my box I considering everything while constructing the box. I wanted a speaker box big enough to grow about 6 plants, had to have working speakers. And had to have a door. Check out my thread in my sig there's a link to the build.

Mr Skunky Haze said:

I'll let you in on a secert I found out. That mesh will kill your air flow and temps will rise fast. Once I removed the mesh on my box temps went from 95+ down to 85 and I was able to add more light. But with such a tight space bro you gota get crafty. Look up light proof methods on here. You could use cardboard pieces glued together or styrofoam. Your door though i don't know what to say. Did you put weather stripping all around that? You really gota think every last thing through when going into a project like this. When I built my box I considering everything while constructing the box. I wanted a speaker box big enough to grow about 6 plants, had to have working speakers. And had to have a door. Check out my thread in my sig there's a link to the build.

Click to expand...

layers of cheese cloth may help, if it were black colored it might even be more effective in dimming the light, with a 90 degree attachment and cloth at the end im pretty sure you would maintain stable air flow as well as keeping your box light tight.

and did you have a exhaust fan when your box was that hot?

cant i just add some sort of elbow shaped contraption to the hole?? i'll try to take a pic tomorrow so you can see what it looks like without the "speaker" mesh veneer

jerriBlank said:

cant i just add some sort of elbow shaped contraption to the hole?? i'll try to take a pic tomorrow so you can see what it looks like without the "eapker" mesh veneer

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yes, that would work but i'd recommend the proper sized fitting so your exhaust makes for a steady current. any elbow type of tube would stop most of the light from reflecting but add mesh if it still goes through.

Yep had a 80mm fan. Once the mesh was removed temps dropped back down. Was also black like most speaker cloth is these days. It could vary though depending on how closely sewed together the mesh is. Id suggest a 90 degree like box of some sort or a 90 degree PVC elbow.

Heres what I just built for the back of my box

Mr Skunky Haze said:

Yep had a 80mm fan. Once the mesh was removed temps dropped back down. Was also black like most speaker cloth is these days. It could vary though depending on how closely sewed together the mesh is. Id suggest a 90 degree like box of some sort or a 90 degree PVC elbow.

Heres what I just built for the back of my box

Click to expand...

nice illustration there lol, and i wouldnt use speaker mesh, i feel like its a bit thick to be covering something thats pumping out air constantly. id just say get a really thin sock or something if you dont have temp problems. but in the end, yes, the 90 degree attachment is probably the only thing id suggest. and if the light keeps coming through attach another one if you have to.

Great. I like that idea ..... you people are crafty! And the speaker mesh is only the facade that goes over the box itself. I haven't messed with any of the other stuff yet. I'm thinking about scrapping the door and trying again. The wood bowed a little too much I think. It needs to be more flush if I want any weather stripping to work on that puppy.

Mr Skunky Haze said:

Yep had a 80mm fan. Once the mesh was removed temps dropped back down. Was also black like most speaker cloth is these days. It could vary though depending on how closely sewed together the mesh is. Id suggest a 90 degree like box of some sort or a 90 degree PVC elbow.

Heres what I just built for the back of my box

Click to expand...

...stupid question, but what is securing the outer ] shape (see illustration)??? I'll be home soon to take some other pictures.

Thanks, I think this is too complicated for my SMALL setup though. but i did not know they make these things! Thanks again.

and i have seen a coffee can air trap SOMEWHERE on the internet. that looked good. thanks again everyone.

Ok I scrapped the door and got a new piece of wood today and will make it bigger than before. I'll try to post some new pics when I get this contraption set up. I think the door will work better this time since it's NOT bowed, i have the right size screws for the hinge, and may use some velcro (will explain later). Now i am going to work on the light trap.

jerriBlank said:

Ok I scrapped the door and got a new piece of wood today and will make it bigger than before. I'll try to post some new pics when I get this contraption set up. I think the door will work better this time since it's NOT bowed, i have the right size screws for the hinge, and may use some velcro (will explain later). Now i am going to work on the light trap.

Click to expand...

pics would be cool, and make sure your lights are very well supported or take them down when tinkering with them.

I pulled an idiot move! I am going to have to circle saw out another hole for the INTAKE fan. in my last indoor grow, i had a small desk fan inside a ghetto cardboard box with a "vent" blowing air on the plant. no wonder the yield was so low. Ugh. Anyway. I'll post the new pictures once I have some work done. the lights are suspended with several small hooks throughout the box....compare it to something like using those "staples" to keep cable or speaker cords secured to a baseboard.. Except I drilled a small pilot hole for the screws then screwed them in.