Soil ph and deficiencies after over watering?

Following up from the Over watering debacle with new problems.

Details be
White widow early veg. Roughly 18 days.
60% sea soil 20% coco 20% perlite
2x300watt full spec led
2x4x5ft tent indoor
Carbon fan and oscillating
Temps 26c high 19c low
Humidity 55 max 25 low
Lights on 24hrs

I have since repotted my over watered plants into 5gal air pots and have noticed some ph problems phd the soil at 6.0-5.9. Topped dressed the soil with dolomitic lime and have being using a diluted dolomite lime with tap water as a foliar spray. It looks like a cal mag deficiency to me really wanted to make sure I'm looking in the right direction and have taken the right steps to recovery for this girl. It isn't quite ready for watering so probably going to have to wait for a more appropriately phd water. As I'm a new grower all info and suggestions would be hugely appreciated.

Thanks!
 

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Father Ramirez

Well-Known Member
Starting a post with specs is wearying! Make it interesting for the reader or we don't care what happens to your garden.

Your all pro advice; stop worrying
 
Starting a post with specs is wearying! Make it interesting for the reader or we don't care what happens to your garden.

Your all pro advice; stop worrying

Yeah apologies as a new grower this is probably more worrying then needed to be. Wanted to be as specific as possible and have some help filtering through advice. Your right though.
 

Buba Blend

Well-Known Member
Don't know what sea soil is but I'll assume it is a quality soil. If you just transplanted to 5 gallon pots there was no need to worry about ph (I'm sure you were told otherwise). No need to add any nutrients to keep the plant healthy for a good amount of time in fresh soil. Just using water in the right amounts at the right time would have likely kept that plant healthy regardless of the PH. If you water properly the new growth will come in fine and it will likely recover. If you had a bout with overwatering. One way to tell. Find out what a dry pot of soil weighs and find out the weight of the pot you are about to water.
Just saying if watering improperly was or still is the problem. PH and nutes are not going to solve it, nutes just might make things worse. Good Luck!
 

im4satori

Well-Known Member
im not sure that foliar feeding lime does anything good its not water soluble

I do believe your getting calcium and magnesium issues from the slightly low ph or just def..

the dolomite you've added to your soil will take a couple weeks min to start working so don't keep adding more

id spray them with 1/2 tsp Epsom salt per gallon every other day for the next few days and add 1 full tsp to the soil 1x and then 1/4 tsp every 2nd or 3rd watering

if you had calmag you could also spray them with 5mls per gallon alternating with Epsom salt spacing the sprays out 2 or 3 days apart

the low ph could make them slightly less available so you could bypass the root ph and get more into the plant with foliar feeds.... but its important to air on the side of caution when foliar spraying so don't go spraying the pisss out of them every day, space it out

in a couple weeks the lime will kick in and youll not need to spray them anymore
 
Don't know what sea soil is but I'll assume it is a quality soil. If you just transplanted to 5 gallon pots there was no need to worry about ph (I'm sure you were told otherwise). No need to add any nutrients to keep the plant healthy for a good amount of time in fresh soil. Just using water in the right amounts at the right time would have likely kept that plant healthy regardless of the PH. If you water properly the new growth will come in fine and it will likely recover. If you had a bout with overwatering. One way to tell. Find out what a dry pot of soil weighs and find out the weight of the pot you are about to water.
Just saying if watering improperly was or still is the problem. PH and nutes are not going to solve it, nutes just might make things worse. Good Luck!

Sea soil is what I believed to be the best organic compost available around me. It says it's ph balanced to 5.5-6.5 nutrient values in pic. Just making sure that I should refrain from ph'ing my tap water which usually is around 6.4 to 6.6.
 

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im not sure that foliar feeding lime does anything good its not water soluble

I do believe your getting calcium and magnesium issues from the slightly low ph or just def..

the dolomite you've added to your soil will take a couple weeks min to start working so don't keep adding more

id spray them with 1/2 tsp Epsom salt per gallon every other day for the next few days and add 1 full tsp to the soil 1x and then 1/4 tsp every 2nd or 3rd watering

if you had calmag you could also spray them with 5mls per gallon alternating with Epsom salt spacing the sprays out 2 or 3 days apart

the low ph could make them slightly less available so you could bypass the root ph and get more into the plant with foliar feeds.... but its important to air on the side of caution when foliar spraying so don't go spraying the pisss out of them every day, space it out

in a couple weeks the lime will kick in and youll not need to spray them anymore

Thanks yeah I do have cal mag from general organics grow line. I will have to look into Epsom salts.
 

Buba Blend

Well-Known Member
Sea soil is what I believed to be the best organic compost available around me. It says it's ph balanced to 5.5-6.5 nutrient values in pic. Just making sure that I should refrain from ph'ing my tap water which usually is around 6.4 to 6.6.
Ok. I would just say as your learning to grow and if you see continued problems in the future. keep an open mind to the possibility that you are still overwatering, it's the #1 problem most growers have. Especially the attentive ones.
 

im4satori

Well-Known Member
usually most of the soil build recipeis seem to call for 1 to 1.5 cups liming agent per cubic ft or 7.5 gallons

but that's using peat... your using coco so youll need to verify if its the same

but most recipeies I see call for

equal parts
compost, perlite and peat , or in your case coco

so that's

2.5 gallons compost
2.5 gallons perlite
2.5 gallons peat

1 to 1.5 cups lime
 

im4satori

Well-Known Member
Ok. I would just say as your learning to grow and if you see continued problems in the future. keep an open mind to the possibility that you are still overwatering, it's the #1 problem most growers have. Especially the attentive ones.
all my inof is based oon the idea that hes got low ph

it could be over watering
 

Buba Blend

Well-Known Member
all my inof is based oon the idea that hes got low ph

it could be over watering
Yeah! My statement on PH was based on if it was a balance soil, but I'm a student not a teacher in that area. I just want him to be prepared to deal with overwatering again because I bet he will do it again. Unless it's harder to do in smart pots. I don't use those.
 

im4satori

Well-Known Member
usually most of the soil build recipeis seem to call for 1 to 1.5 cups liming agent per cubic ft or 7.5 gallons

but that's using peat... your using coco so youll need to verify if its the same

but most recipeies I see call for

equal parts
compost, perlite and peat , or in your case coco

so that's

2.5 gallons compost
2.5 gallons perlite
2.5 gallons peat

1 to 1.5 cups lime
I also forgot to mention..this requires a 4 to 6 week cooking period for the lime to do its thing

im not really a master of soil organics yet either lol
im just learning the organics and loving it
 

Buba Blend

Well-Known Member
all my inof is based oon the idea that hes got low ph

it could be over watering
I also forgot to mention..this requires a 4 to 6 week cooking period for the lime to do its thing

im not really a master of soil organics yet either lol
im just learning the organics and loving it
Also, I'll usually just click watch and read the thread unless I'm sure of what to say. In this case I jumped in because the 1st response he received was nothing but sarcasm. I'll usually jump in when they start begging for help after getting no responce. :)
 

im4satori

Well-Known Member
Also, I'll usually just click watch and read the thread unless I'm sure of what to say. In this case I jumped in because the 1st response he received was nothing but sarcasm. I'll usually jump in when they start begging for help after getting no responce. :)
agreed
 
Thanks guys or gals.

Probably a way to jumpy new grower looking for too much help. But all very appreciated. And there is now a note on the grow tent saying "buba says don't over water " in the hopes of not doing it in the future haha.
 

im4satori

Well-Known Member
im no soil guru so take what I say with a grain of salt but

the way you've mixed your soil 60% compost and only 20% perlite im guessing the soils not draining so quickly like @Buba Blend said so ya ,,,,,,,,,,

it would be nice to hear from someone with more experience in building soils its all pretty new for me
 

Buba Blend

Well-Known Member
@Rivalblack This may or may not be useful for you. I figured I'd put this scenario about watering together here since it's a real time event.
Whether it is time to water the plant I'm gonna show. You guys decide. There are a lot of different ways to successfully grow great crystal.
The example I'm gonna show is not the way to grow a healthy plant or great crystal, it's to make a point about whether soil is dry or not. I probably could not create this senario with a healthy plant that has a great root system because it would drink differently. This plant has healthy roots, but it does not have an extensive root system which is good for this senario because most newbies will not have great roots throughout the pot.
This plant is in a weak batch of soil (Not recommended). 20% new ffof. 20% new ff happy frog and 60% depleted ffof, mixed and put in a 3 gallon plastic pot.
It had weak overall color from the beginning. (Can't imagine why :). Eventually this plant started getting some nice color back to it. Long story. Right now it may not be pretty but it actually has some dense buds that I look forward to seeing how they finish. It's been going 9 weeks with at least two more to go.
Oh and I almost forgot. This plant spent most of its life under low light. It was approximately 4 feet away from the lights until about 2 or 3 weeks into flowering at which point it was given better light.
Note how thin the trunk is next to the popsicle stick.
The probe on top is about 3 or more inches into the soil. The one on the bottom as you can see is several inches into the drain hole.
This pot when bone dry would weigh about 11 to 11.8 lbs with the plant in it.
If I wanted to saturate it and I don't want to do that, I could get it to about 21 lbs.
I watered it 3 days ago taking it to 15 - 16 lbs.
Right now after taking the pics it weighs 13.8 lbs.
When to water? Not sure there is a correct answer.
This is why I have a harder time than most people here accepting a new growers opinion that they know their soil is dry.



2.JPG
3.JPG
 

Attachments

@Rivalblack This may or may not be useful for you. I figured I'd put this scenario about watering together here since it's a real time event.
Whether it is time to water the plant I'm gonna show. You guys decide. There are a lot of different ways to successfully grow great crystal.
The example I'm gonna show is not the way to grow a healthy plant or great crystal, it's to make a point about whether soil is dry or not. I probably could not create this senario with a healthy plant that has a great root system because it would drink differently. This plant has healthy roots, but it does not have an extensive root system which is good for this senario because most newbies will not have great roots throughout the pot.
This plant is in a weak batch of soil (Not recommended). 20% new ffof. 20% new ff happy frog and 60% depleted ffof, mixed and put in a 3 gallon plastic pot.
It had weak overall color from the beginning. (Can't imagine why :). Eventually this plant started getting some nice color back to it. Long story. Right now it may not be pretty but it actually has some dense buds that I look forward to seeing how they finish. It's been going 9 weeks with at least two more to go.
Oh and I almost forgot. This plant spent most of its life under low light. It was approximately 4 feet away from the lights until about 2 or 3 weeks into flowering at which point it was given better light.
Note how thin the trunk is next to the popsicle stick.
The probe on top is about 3 or more inches into the soil. The one on the bottom as you can see is several inches into the drain hole.
This pot when bone dry would weigh about 11 to 11.8 lbs with the plant in it.
If I wanted to saturate it and I don't want to do that, I could get it to about 21 lbs.
I watered it 3 days ago taking it to 15 - 16 lbs.
Right now after taking the pics it weighs 13.8 lbs.
When to water? Not sure there is a correct answer.
This is why I have a harder time than most people here accepting a new growers opinion that they know their soil is dry.



View attachment 3972774
View attachment 3972775
Agreed. As a new grower my ideas of when it is dry is far from good. Going off of some of the more popular when and how to water techniques which may not be right for me. And yes my roots probably haven't grown to be substantial enough to take heavy waterings. In the learning process all the info has been super helpful. I have an extra pot with dry soil it in now for reference and a small fan nearer to the plant itself to help keep air moving in and around the pot. Need to do more reading into soil requirements. (God damn I wish fox farm products were not so expensive in canada) will post if this one straightens out but I definitely have alot of better information moving towards future grow!!

Thanks
 
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