Soaking pots in water

Nutty sKunK

Well-Known Member
As the title reads. I’m aware of soaking your pots then lifting them out. I’m keen to try this as the water beads of dry peat really badly.

Is it efficient at ridding the soil of excess salt? Or should one still water from the top occasionally?

Cheers
 

hotrodharley

Well-Known Member
As the title reads. I’m aware of soaking your pots then lifting them out. I’m keen to try this as the water beads of dry peat really badly.

Is it efficient at ridding the soil of excess salt? Or should one still water from the top occasionally?

Cheers
Add some type of surfactant including a tiny tiny tiny drop of liquid dishwashing detergent to your water to defeat dry peat. You’re describing a setup for overwatering.
 

ChronicWonders.

Well-Known Member
As the title reads. I’m aware of soaking your pots then lifting them out. I’m keen to try this as the water beads of dry peat really badly.

Is it efficient at ridding the soil of excess salt? Or should one still water from the top occasionally?

Cheers
If you’re doing it to get rid of salts/hot medium you will need to do it multiple times until the water is clear.
 

Nutty sKunK

Well-Known Member
Add some type of surfactant including a tiny tiny tiny drop of liquid dishwashing detergent to your water to defeat dry peat. You’re describing a setup for overwatering.

Ok will try that if it gets too bad.

I believe overwatering is frequency rather than quantity. They are given ample time to dry out, just the top tends to dust before they rest needs watering.
 

doogledore

Well-Known Member
Agree 100%. Further suggest cultivating the top few inches at least BEFORE watering. Every single time. I go further penetrating all the way THROUGH the roots and all the way to the bottom of the medium. Use a long screwdriver or bamboo bbq skewer.

IT WILL NOT HURT THE ROOT SYSTEM!!!
Ive been afraid to use my long soil moisture/ph meter for this very reason. Good to know.

Would it be best to angle the aeration holes towards the bottom center of the pot to ensure water flows to the center of the root system?
 

hotrodharley

Well-Known Member
Ive been afraid to use my long soil moisture/ph meter for this very reason. Good to know.

Would it be best to angle the aeration holes towards the bottom center of the pot to ensure water flows to the center of the root system?
I poke a hundred holes at a time at least. I don’t skip the hardened root mass directly under the plants. If they’re in flower or close to it you’ll smell them quickly after you start piercing. Mine never skip a beat. It allows water to actually get into that mass of roots instead of flowing around it.

Edit: I only grow regular seeds as a rule. From Dixie cup to 1 gallon and then to 3 or 5 gallon. I toss the males and when I do the fine roots have almost totally filled the medium. It absolutely doesn’t hurt the roots. Any severed roots simply heal and fork just like the plant does when it’s topped.
 

Nutty sKunK

Well-Known Member
If you're running organics, leaching doesn't sound like a good idea. Like hot rod said, disturb the top layer and water slow. Come back in 5 or 10 minutes and water again
Yes my practise is usually to space out the waterings several times.

This was just an idea of a less time consuming and ultimately just as effective way to water.

Growing in peat with a dash of worm castings. So will the leaching side of things isn’t too much of a worry.
 

T macc

Well-Known Member
I just re-read the thread. Sub irrigation will work. But idk how much water you would need. Would be even quicker if you set your pot in the water tray and also watered from the top
 

BodegaBud

Well-Known Member
I have to at times leave my plants for a week or so. I fill up the bottom with water. I know it’s a bad practice but what alternatives are there:|
 
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