So you noobs are hooked on cannabis specific Bloom foods (aka snakeoil)..... eh?

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Uncle Ben

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I use sensibloom because it has fulvic/humics , amino's and a wetting agent should I choose to foliar spray.
Perfect solution for premature leaf loss. Wouldn't touch it with a ten foot pole. You don't need amino acids, plants make their own. All hype if you know what you're actually getting in the first place as AN is notorious for fraud. You get fulvic/humic acids from any organic soil, peat moss or compost, free. AN doesn't even register their products, which should raise a red flag for any smart shopper/grower. http://www.nwgt.org/showthread.php?7952-What-the-hell-do-people-in-OR-use-for-nutrients[/QUOTE]
 

Uncle Ben

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UncleBen have you ever heard of BounTea, its suppose to be really great for outdoor growing. Year after year its suppose to make your soil better.
Got a profile?

"Makes your soil better", says who, and just how does it do that? Please recite only credible sources like university field studies. No ads please.
 

cannawizard

Well-Known Member
BounTea is good for soil growers using compost tea, prices are decent and you dont need to buy the CT brewer (cheaper just to make one yourself).
Had good results both under indoor/outdoor setups.


(not sure if it does make your soil "better" each year)

here's the link (http://www.bountea.com/)


**im not saying to use this, just sharing my exp using their products :)
 

chuck estevez

Well-Known Member
Got a profile?

"Makes your soil better", says who, and just how does it do that?
if you have ever read a maximum yield magazine, boun tea is the old dude hugging the big vegetables. Claims to have won tons of awards.[video=youtube;hpWvx7gNYac]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hpWvx7gNYac[/video]
 

Uncle Ben

Well-Known Member
GREAT LINK shes awesome, every time I have an issue big enough to look it up, she has a controlled study leading me to the results I wanted. Plus what a cool lady to talk to!
Yes, she is great to talk to. Makes herself available, level headed/solid. Great resource.
 

wristychronicles

Well-Known Member
I think the biggest problem new growers have is they FORGET cannabis is in fact a plant, and there are laws of the natural universe to go with that. For example, if the plants are looking unhealthy try reading a book about plants. Don't run to cannabis forums expecting a miracle to occur and someone to impossibly private message years of experience. Also some people dont want to listen even if the answer is right in front of them ( I can't always blame them with soo much shit info going around), my recommendation to them is cross check your references, read, and then grow healthy plants long enough for you to learn what actually makes them happy.
 

PJ Diaz

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Silica is in the soil? And by soil I mean the potting mixes most use. IE sunshine mix, pro mix ect...I dont think so. Outdoor mineralized soil yes. Hydro or soil a plant needs to eat the same things...
Right. I said soil, not some coco/peat mix. How is that so confusing?
 

PJ Diaz

Well-Known Member
You get fulvic/humic acids from any organic soil, peat moss or compost, free.
Maybe a little, but you can certainly enhance it by adding more fulvics. That's why we add compost to organic outdoor gardens. It doesn't just magically appear.
 

dimebag87

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So is this guy saying that a flower specific nutrient is unnecessary and i should just use a basic feed from start to finish?
 

Izoc666

Well-Known Member
So is this guy saying that a flower specific nutrient is unnecessary and i should just use a basic feed from start to finish?
Yes thats very correct. I used the veg nute all to the harvest, the result is big buds !!! Because of the green foliages, in turn, foliage will increase bud production...bloom with high P , it will cause induce leaves droopy or yellow , the result is poor yield...IMO, all the bloom booster is overrated.

I've always telling some people to do the expriement and dont be scared to mess up in process, you will profit from this expreince.

happy gardening.
 

dimebag87

Well-Known Member
Cool thanks. Would it be ok to use the remainder of my bloom feed and then switch back to the grow nutrients or will this mess with the plants chemistry too much? It will save me from buying extra feed this grow if it's no problem ;) Ultimately it wont benefit my pocket but if it's good for the plants then what the hell.
 

OddBall1st

Well-Known Member
Once upon a time there was this chick that grew hydo weed, very good at it too,..big wet yeild and the high was incredible !!

Then one day at a gathering, she pulled out a bud and put it on the palm of a hand, put the other palm over it and grinded it up to powder and blew it off her hand and said,...fly into the wind and let the gods inhale !! So someone else walked over and said, offer my bud to the gods !! She put the bud of about the same size and drying time in the palm of her hand and then took the other and grinded it up, opened her hand and said, Would someone get this sh*t off my hands !!
 

ru4r34l

Well-Known Member
Yes thats very correct. I used the veg nute all to the harvest, the result is big buds !!! Because of the green foliages, in turn, foliage will increase bud production...bloom with high P , it will cause induce leaves droopy or yellow , the result is poor yield...IMO, all the bloom booster is overrated.

I've always telling some people to do the expriement and dont be scared to mess up in process, you will profit from this expreince.

happy gardening.
Bloom additives with a high P content is not the reason for premature yellowing of leaves. ;-)

regards,
 

sully

Well-Known Member
just read thru every page and thankfully UB answered what i already knew but was just to stubborn to realize....all these arguments over companies products whose are better whose are worse, bottom line...read the label. It's the bible in my business, (turf and ornamental care) Jacks all purpose 20-20-20. Same as the ultra-sol 20-20-20 I have a pallet of. So to the guy using company A claiming it's the shit, Is it? Or is it the same as company B whose product is readily available and maybe cheaper. Case in point, I messed around with coco for a bit and almost dropped a nut on H&G Coco specific nutes. Read the label of their soil part a & b. Derived from same exact stuff.

I guess what Im saying is to the new guys, learn basic plant needs and go from there. I was a noob in cannabis (still am I guess) and realized product choices are virtually irrelevant if you dont have the basics down. Learn from the start and go from there. And if your in soil or want a great book on fertilizer responses and soil/fertilizer relationships. Check out Neil Kinseys "Hands on Agronomy". Based on the principles of Dr. William Albrecht aka the godfather of modern soil science. Also Check out soilfirst.com, they have some great articles on soil principles.
 

Relaxed

Well-Known Member
I have followed this thread for quite a while. Thanks for the info. Gone thru the nut. wars and have gone to one product all the way. GReen as a xmas tree start to finish.

Sunleaves Peruvian Seabird Guano
High in the nutrients needed for every stage of plant growth, Sunleaves Peruvian Seabird Guano (12-11-2) is an excellent all-purpose fertilizer. All-natural with no chemical additives, Peruvian Seabird Guano is safe for use indoors and out. Nothing like it for accelerating growth, Peruvian Seabird Guano is pelletized for water solubility with less mess. amend plants monthly and water normally.
 
I have been all through this thread, went and did some research and now I'm back to share what I've learned/seek direction and counsel. I have heard great things about Bloom enhancers like Bud Blood, Bud Ignitor, Bushmaster, the list goes on. Bud Blood guaranteed analysis is (0-39-25) and $129 when bought in 10.5oz pkg. I spoke with a representative at A.N. and was assured that there were no PGR's in Bud Blood. (Bushmaster has Paclobutrazol) Any product that contains PGRs must indicate it on the label along with appropriate warnings/indications for use. The A.N. guy told me straight up,"It's [Bud Blood] just a P-K boost." So here's what I'm thinkng: Why not buy Soluble potash from someone like; [ http://www.kelp4less.com/shop/soluble-potash-fertilizer/?add-to-cart=variation&product_id=68#UMdTE-T7K8A ] (30lbs/$29.50) and phosphoric acid [ http://www.amazon.com/Gallon-Phosphoric-Acid-Grade-Concentration/dp/B0039CWTEQ/ref=pd_sbs_indust_5 ] and for 80 bucks you never have to buy that shit again. People are boasting 20-30% increases in yield. It would seem that this stuff would more than pay for itself the first time you use it. (probably why they get away with charging an arm and a leg) Here's what I'm unclear about, and this is the reason, Uncle Ben, that I chose your post to post this in, I'm most interested in your opinion as you are the only one I've seen post on DIY nutrients.

Q1) adding phosphoric acid will lower the pH so how do you give such a boost while maintaining your optimal uptake parameters?
Q2) how would go about mixing/applying such a program? Q3 to come. Flowering enhancers that contain PGRs are commonly applied once at the beginning of the flowering cycle and once at the 5th week of flowering. So..
Q3)Would a P-K boost campaign like I am describing be applied in the same way? Or since a PGR is not present, would it be better to give the P-K boost all through the flowering cycle? (excepting flush week of course) I do plan on conducting a controlled experiment and sharing the results but it would be good to get as much info and experienced advice as I can, before I start. Bring on the comments boys and girls and especially Uncle Ben if you read this, I know you have some exp with DIY nutes.

Note: My systems are drip-feed/rock-wool and ebb-and-flow/rock-wool but I am curious to hear your thoughts on methodology for soil and soil-less as well.
 
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