SIP thread -- (Sub-Irrigated Planter)

[frankslan]

Yes, sand wicks well. The smaller the particles the better capillary action. But, wet sand will slide right through those perf pipe slits, so you need to wrap your pipes with a drain sleeve. Of course soil absorbs and holds water better than sand. So basically soil absorbs and wicks and sand only wicks. So you're right that soil sitting in water will be more damp, but sand will do a better job of pulling water up into the soil. But, if you find the soil gets too dry then you might want to use a plastic sheet on the top of the container (a mulch layer). Consistent moisture from the top to bottom of the container will help the microbiology grow. If the top of the soil dries out too much, then you won't have microbiology at the top of the pot to break down organic fertilizer. That's if you are top dressing with organic nutes. If you are feeding from the reservoir then this is less of an issue.

Also make sure the sand is washed an clean. You don't want any silt in the sand or the water won't wick properly. Usually the agricultural sand from a nursery is already washed. It's a little bit more expensive than sand box sand from the big box store, but the sand box sand has a ton of dust, silt and extra crap. You know, all the crap you don't mind your kid playing in, but isn't good enough for your plants.

Okay thanks i was thinking that it might clog those slits ill probably wrap it in the weed fabric. Running out of money for this build.

How does that look for spacing between the pipe. Too much too little?


Thanks for the tip on washing it too i was not gonna do that. Maybe i can find some of that nicer sand.

Im trying to do a no till so there will be some top dressing might try living mulch layer

 

[PDX Joe]

Okay thanks i was thinking that it might clog those slits ill probably wrap it in the weed fabric. Running out of money for this build.

How does that look for spacing between the pipe. Too much too little?


Thanks for the tip on washing it too i was not gonna do that. Maybe i can find some of that nicer sand.

Im trying to do a no till so there will be some top dressing might try living mulch layer

Yes, I think that gap looks pretty good. When you fill the bottom with sand make sure you water the sand with a watering can or hose as you fill in the sand. This will force the sand to flow down into the small gaps that you can't pack in with your fingers. That way you won't have air gaps or settling after you put the soil on top.

You can use weed cloth to wrap the pipe, but I think they sell a 10 ft. length of drain sock for $5 at HD.

Definitely try a mulch layer whether you use plastic sheeting, hay or a cover crop.

 

[frankslan]

Okay thanks i was thinking that it might clog those slits ill probably wrap it in the weed fabric. Running out of money for this build.

How does that look for spacing between the pipe. Too much too little?


Thanks for the tip on washing it too i was not gonna do that. Maybe i can find some of that nicer sand.

Yes, I think that gap looks pretty good. When you fill the bottom with sand make sure you water the sand with a watering can or hose as you fill in the sand. This will force the sand to flow down into the small gaps that you can't pack in with your fingers. That way you won't have air gaps or settling after you put the soil on top.

You can use weed cloth to wrap the pipe, but I think they sell a 10 ft. length of drain sock for $5 at HD.

Definitely try a mulch layer whether you use plastic sheeting, hay or a cover crop.

Okay cool 5 bucks i can handle i guess.

Is anyone using ropes for a wick that seems like it would be cool then the roots would stop when they it the air gap

 

[PDX Joe]

Okay cool 5 bucks i can handle i guess.

Is anyone using ropes for a wick that seems like it would be cool then the roots would stop when they it the air gap

I would worry about a rope system because you would need to find the type of rope that would wick, but not deteriorate. And, the air gap won't stop the roots. They will find a way down there eventually. I believe the air gap is important for allowing oxygen to enter the system from below... this should help prevent root rot. I have used a weed barrier on top of the sand which does slow down the roots. But, a few growers may have a point that letting roots grown down into the reservoir isn't necessarily a bad thing. My new indoor system has an air gap, but I eliminated the weed barrier and I'm going to see how they do with allowing the roots go down into the reservoir area.

You can achieve an air gap with the sand design, you just need to place the reservoir overflow drain holes an inch or two lower than where the bottom of your soil is located. This will allow air to enter through the drain holes and permeate the sand zone between your reservoir water high point and soil bottom.

 

[hyroot]

Hey kids. You miss me. A few things I have figured out with diy sips over the last couple years. .


1. Line your wicking pot with weed mat
2. Mix pumice and coco 50/50 in your wicking pot.
3. Layer the bottom of your main pot with 1/2 inch layer of pumice.

All this to prevent over saturation ^^^^

4. For the first month. Do not fill the resi!! Allow the roots to fill out the pot completely first. Then add water to the resi. This will make your roots grow insane. My roots fill out 75% of the resi.


Now I have ran with air stones and without. I prefer without stones now. Everytime I fill the resi I add a splash of labs. Make sure not to add more than a 1/4 cup of labs per 10 gallons of water.. Too much labs can go bad and stink. A little goes a long way. And keeps the watwr from going bad and prevents mold or harmful pathogens from hitting the roots.

Once every 10 days I top water with a mix of labs, ffj, yucca, and mammoth p. Then plain water the rest. The occasional sst. Never towards the end of flower. Cytokinins in sst's promote cell division causing longer flowering time and fox tailing.

Every 2 weeks i top dress a layer of gro kashi. Then once the layer of pseudomycelieum layer develops i top dress compost. Balance out the bacteria and fungi. I also have red wiggler worms in all my pots.


My favorite design is the fabric pot / octo pot design. I have not yet tried earth boxes. I have not wanted to spend the money as I've fully dialed in my diy sips.

I

 

[Evil-Mobo]

Hey kids. You miss me. A few things I have figured out with diy sips over the last couple years. .


1. Line your wicking pot with weed mat
2. Mix pumice and coco 50/50 in your wicking pot.
3. Layer the bottom of your main pot with 1/2 inch layer of pumice.

All this to prevent over saturation ^^^^

4. For the first month. Do not fill the resi!! Allow the roots to fill out the pot completely first. Then add water to the resi. This will make your roots grow insane. My roots fill out 75% of the resi.


Now I have ran with air stones and without. I prefer without stones now. Everytime i fill the resi. I add a splash of labs. Make sure not to add more than a 1/4 cup of labs per 10 gallons of water.. Too much labs can go bad and stink. A little goes a long way. And keeps the watwr from going bad and prevents mold or harmful pathogens from hitting the roots.

Once every 10 days I top water with a mix of labs, ffj, yucca, and mammoth p. Then plain water the rest. The occasional sst. Never towards the end of flower. Cytokinins in sst's promote cell division causing longer flowering time and fox tailing.

Every 2 weeks i top dress a layer of gro kashi. Then once the layer of pseudomycelieum layer develops i top dress compost. Balnace out the bacteria and fungi. I also have red wiggler worms in all my pots.


My favorite design is the fabric pot / octo pot design. I have not yet tried earth boxes. I have not wanted to spend the money as I've fully dialed in my diy sips.

I

Good to see you around again brother!

 

[frankslan]

Cool thanks for the tips.

I found a few fig planters using Thermolam fabric they said that you kind have to experiment with it and find out how much wick you need though.

Edit:Some good wick materials are synthetic shoe laces, man-made chamois (100% rayon), the nylon ties from citrus fruit bags, braided polypropylene rope, nylon rope...

 

[frankslan]

Coming together now just have to mix all my dirt now

 

[PDX Joe]

Plants are settling in nicely. I dropped the SCROG net on. I lowered it to 7" over the pots this time. I want that screen really low. The mycelium mat formed in one day using the bokashi.

 

[frankslan]

I filled the containers up with soil one inch from the top. took about 33 gallons of soil.

Should I just go all the way to the top?

 

[PDX Joe]

I filled the containers up with soil one inch from the top. took about 33 gallons of soil.

Should I just go all the way to the top?

Not if you're going to do a compost and mulch layer. You'll need an inch or so for some compost/ worm castings to develop a humus layer.

 

[frankslan]

Not if you're going to do a compost and mulch layer. You'll need an inch or so for some compost/ worm castings to develop a humus layer.

oh okay I thought maybe it would compact down a bit maybe I should remove some.

 

[PDX Joe]

oh okay I thought maybe it would compact down a bit maybe I should remove some.

Yeah, you're right. The soil will settle a bit. You can tamp it gently once the plants are in. Then put a bit more soil in to make sure the crown of the rootball is level or slightly under the soil.

 

[frankslan]

I made a compost tea I was wondering can I add some of the nutrient mix kelp crab and neam to it or is that a bad idea?

 

[ttystikk]

I made a compost tea I was wondering can I add some of the nutrient mix kelp crab and neam to it or is that a bad idea?

No nutes, no neem.

The other stuff should be okay.

 

[frankslan]

hey anyone try like grokashi style korean farming style and form a mycelium layer over the soil? Im thinking of adding barley watered with em-1 over my soil cover it grow a santa's beard then top it off with my Vermi Compost and mulch.

My soil is already hot sitting at 83 now in the middle so Idk if this would be too much I dont want to make it any hotter.

 

[Evil-Mobo]

hey anyone try like grokashi style korean farming style and form a mycelium layer over the soil? Im thinking of adding barley watered with em-1 over my soil cover it grow a santa's beard then top it off with my Vermi Compost and mulch.

My soil is already hot sitting at 83 now in the middle so Idk if this would be too much I dont want to make it any hotter.

The barley teas get old I now just sprinkle it as a top dress under the mulch and you get the same effect.

 

[PDX Joe]

hey anyone try like grokashi style korean farming style and form a mycelium layer over the soil? Im thinking of adding barley watered with em-1 over my soil cover it grow a santa's beard then top it off with my Vermi Compost and mulch.

My soil is already hot sitting at 83 now in the middle so Idk if this would be too much I dont want to make it any hotter.

Yes, I'm trying bokashi this grow on top of my compost just under my plastic cover. The mycelium mat formed in a day, so that's a good sign.

 

[frankslan]

Yes, I'm trying bokashi this grow on top of my compost just under my plastic cover. The mycelium mat formed in a day, so that's a good sign.

cool I put barley in my soil I can already see the mycelium forming in 24 hours too.

 

[frankslan]

The barley teas get old I now just sprinkle it as a top dress under the mulch and you get the same effect.

ya I want to do a topdress of it but water it in with em-1