Should I just flush?

weedenhanced

Well-Known Member
There were two things in the first post that showed the problem was more likely over fert than lacking nitrogen the way some suspected. The soils used have ferts added to them and the grower stated they were adding more fert. Then there was the yellowing itself, which was confusing some. The combo of lower leaf yellowing along with yellowing in the middle of the plant indicates a different kind of nutrient problem. I stated earlier that leaves go yellow for more than just one reason. It could be over fert or under. Just because lower leaves go yellow, a grower really shouldn't jump to the conclusion that it's based on low nitrogen, especially when it's known that the soil used have fert in them. All the yellow means is that something is wrong. I've been reading online grow forums since OG back in 1999 and the most common mistake people make is over fert. Why? Because it's so easy to do.
Some people like to foliar feed, but I've seen it cause problems. Frankly, if your plants look pretty good, don't try anything risky. If you see improvement, I'd let that ride out for while. You want to use a wet/dry cycle for watering. Let the soil dry out quite a bit, is usually the recommendation as it lets a lot of oxygen in to the roots.
Regarding Dr. Who's belief in FF soil only grows being successful, here's some pics of the outcome; I'll try to upload here. These plants showed a little leaf tip burn, some fert sensitivity, and maybe that's why they did so well without additives. Maybe it was a good combo of genotype and soil. In the second photo, you can see how dark green the leaves are with leaf tip browning.View attachment 3496383 View attachment 3496384 View attachment 3496385
Nice plant yeah looks real dark tiny bit burned
With additives u mighta done better
 

Dr. Who

Well-Known Member
I have grown a plant start to finish in FFOF with nothing but water. 3 week veg, 8 week flower. It started fading a bit earlier than I would like, but it finished up just fine.
I have in all my years never tried it and only assumed.......Now I own the ass part! FF soils were never fav's for the bugs they tend to bring to the table......Now, older and more tired.......I use them when I'm in a hurry to build a yard of bloom soil...

Thanks for the heads up st0w!

@polishpollack I owe you an apology Pollack......I believe you now.......I know st0w does not BS. I don't really know you yet...sorry about that...

Doc
 

st0wandgrow

Well-Known Member
I have in all my years never tried it and only assumed.......Now I own the ass part! FF soils were never fav's for the bugs they tend to bring to the table......Now, older and more tired.......I use them when I'm in a hurry to build a yard of bloom soil...

Thanks for the heads up st0w!

@polishpollack I owe you an apology Pollack......I believe you now.......I know st0w does not BS. I don't really know you yet...sorry about that...

Doc
For the record, it's definitely not ideal so I don't necessarily disagree with your statement. Just throwing it out there that it can be done with a short veg period, reasonable flower time, and a large enough container
 

Dr. Who

Well-Known Member
There were two things in the first post that showed the problem was more likely over fert than lacking nitrogen the way some suspected. The soils used have ferts added to them and the grower stated they were adding more fert. Then there was the yellowing itself, which was confusing some. The combo of lower leaf yellowing along with yellowing in the middle of the plant indicates a different kind of nutrient problem. I stated earlier that leaves go yellow for more than just one reason. It could be over fert or under. Just because lower leaves go yellow, a grower really shouldn't jump to the conclusion that it's based on low nitrogen, especially when it's known that the soil used have fert in them. All the yellow means is that something is wrong. I've been reading online grow forums since OG back in 1999 and the most common mistake people make is over fert. Why? Because it's so easy to do.
Some people like to foliar feed, but I've seen it cause problems. Frankly, if your plants look pretty good, don't try anything risky. If you see improvement, I'd let that ride out for while. You want to use a wet/dry cycle for watering. Let the soil dry out quite a bit, is usually the recommendation as it lets a lot of oxygen in to the roots.
Regarding Dr. Who's belief in FF soil only grows being successful, here's some pics of the outcome; I'll try to upload here. These plants showed a little leaf tip burn, some fert sensitivity, and maybe that's why they did so well without additives. Maybe it was a good combo of genotype and soil. In the second photo, you can see how dark green the leaves are with leaf tip browning.View attachment 3496383 View attachment 3496384 View attachment 3496385
Why I said to up the N is that we are BOTH right about the overuse of P&K......The thing being is that high P&K will begin blocking N uptake....He took care of that and is seeing improvement.........Balance the pH and up the N a little to stem the advance of the P&K problem...

Understand?

Hey you had to have read the post before this so -
peace on bro

Doc
 

Dr. Who

Well-Known Member
For the record, it's definitely not ideal so I don't necessarily disagree with your statement. Just throwing it out there that it can be done with a short veg period, reasonable flower time, and a large enough container
Thanks for the comeback st0w
I think the "large enough container" part was something I mentioned in a follow up post here somewhere....I mean, I can see it being done in a big pot with a small plant.....3 week veg would be along that line.....I veg too long for comfortable single pot SS runs and do the 2 part veg/bloom specific SS's and up-pot to my bloom in a 3x+/- bigger pot for bloom with a 14 day wait for the roots to take before flipping the lighting......

Doc
 

Dr. Who

Well-Known Member
With all due respect I highly disagree with that statement, I've grown many many beautiful plants with water only.
I've done water only in roots (707 and normal), vermifire, ffof and happy frog. With the vermifire being the best, hands down.
given enough room they are totally fine.
beautiful plants and a large yield, they were grown outside in half winebarrels.
I went through a phase where I only watered, the difference I saw were very minimal.
BUT that's in a half winebarrel... those things probably hold 75 gallons of soil.
I also have done water only in 15 gal plastic containers.
Hey grease,,,read the above cpl a posts man......

I can do single pot runs but like a larger plant so I do the 2 pot thing......I lernt dat sum years ago and liked it, duh.....I tend to do what I like and works best for me - Gee like we never heard that before eh?

But there's the rub again - "Given enough room"! I kinda mentioned that and never considered OF as a viable long term soil so I never tried it out.....

Doc
 

greasemonkeymann

Well-Known Member
Hey grease,,,read the above cpl a posts man......

I can do single pot runs but like a larger plant so I do the 2 pot thing......I lernt dat sum years ago and liked it, duh.....I tend to do what I like and works best for me - Gee like we never heard that before eh?

But there's the rub again - "Given enough room"! I kinda mentioned that and never considered OF as a viable long term soil so I never tried it out.....

Doc
I gotcha man, I know you are a damn good grower, and you always treat people with respect, and those are the types of growers we need here.
You may want to fiddle-around/experiment with slower releasing nutrients, it works really well, like surprisingly well.
I will say that the best soil that I used was the vermifire, in fact it's a large portion of my mix, from like 3 yrs ago, I add compost, and I added some peat (before my compost was ready).
 

Dr. Who

Well-Known Member
I gotcha man, I know you are a damn good grower, and you always treat people with respect, and those are the types of growers we need here.
You may want to fiddle-around/experiment with slower releasing nutrients, it works really well, like surprisingly well.
I will say that the best soil that I used was the vermifire, in fact it's a large portion of my mix, from like 3 yrs ago, I add compost, and I added some peat (before my compost was ready).
It's all "Ano" use's too...

Yeah I hear ya on the longer release amendments,,,,I tend to do a lot of longer running plants and been comfortable with my dial in for a long time.....You know how that goes......But yeah, I've done some work on straight through soils.....I have a cpl of formul's that work well......I just find sometimes that I'll start building a soil and end up with my old "normal use" one as I seem to have done the build from habit! Like a week a go and ended up with 5 yards of my old formula for bloom and really MEANT to do the new #3 version for straight through....No harm no foul....LOL

Doc
 

greasemonkeymann

Well-Known Member
It's all "Ano" use's too...

Yeah I hear ya on the longer release amendments,,,,I tend to do a lot of longer running plants and been comfortable with my dial in for a long time.....You know how that goes......But yeah, I've done some work on straight through soils.....I have a cpl of formul's that work well......I just find sometimes that I'll start building a soil and end up with my old "normal use" one as I seem to have done the build from habit! Like a week a go and ended up with 5 yards of my old formula for bloom and really MEANT to do the new #3 version for straight through....No harm no foul....LOL

Doc
hey man, if it's not broke, it's not a bad idea to LITFA.
Course my world is adjusting/repairing/troubleshooting things, so naturally I like to experiment with new stuff.
Human nature I think, sadly it oftentimes just gets in the way when it comes to growing cannabis.
 

polishpollack

Well-Known Member
People seem to have the idea that "if I just do this, I will get better results." This is not necessarily the case. It's better to know what to do and listen to good advice, but the issue is that the web is a place where anyone can post whatever they want and have naïve persons take them seriously. If a poster doesn't know the answer, it's better to just keep quiet. No offense, but it doesn't do the grower with a problem any good to be misled. It's best to just keep the grow simple, stick with what works, and don't force feed plants. You need adequate lighting, good airflow, good temp control for indoors, wet/dry cycle in soil grows (meaning let the soil dry out pretty much before you water again). Buy the best genetics you can. A great deal of bad info is on the web and it spreads like fire. Honestly, it's just plant. Can it really be that hard? Or can I just use a good potting soil and water when dry and get good results? Isn't this the idea behind Miracle Grow, where it suppose to last for 6 months? I don't think people should use it as it seems to hot, but I say that as an example that the companies are making their own products to last.
 

Ifarted420

Well-Known Member
So, this is sorda a bump. Anywho golden cobra is still a puny ass little bitch unfortunately, and I made the discovery yesterday after I noticed "calyxes" swelling up a little bit too much. Plucked one off and squeezed it and it was hard as a rock. Fuck fuck fuck. Fucking fuck. That was literally my reactio . My first fucking Hermie. WELL. No WONDER she was budding slow as molasses going up hill in the winter time. However. As there are probably about 15 on the entire plant. There are NONE on the c99. Not for long. I know -_-

Speaking of c99 she's sticky and gooey and fruit punchy and she is COVERED in triches. Noticed today while watering her I picked her up and the branches were swaying around in the air. That's how ya know shits getting heavy.

Just got a few personal question! As there are very little seeds on cobra, what shall I do with "IT". Would defiantly still be potent smoke. But possibly not worth the hassle or weight (which would be close to nothing and full of seeds)

Also, as some of you may know c99 is great around day 50-55. That's her in her prime. I have heard that c99 is also great and stoney if you let her amber up a little. So should I take her to day 60 or 65 and let her fatten up even more? I'm thinking I should since golden cobra is basically gonna bring like a half ounce...
 

Ifarted420

Well-Known Member
Just to let everyone know how it went, I yielded two ounces from c99 and two ounces of some very frosty trim. Yielded one ounce from golden cobra. Very beautiful nugs from c99, great high very good for early mornin . As for the golden cobra... WOW what a strain, amazing head high hits you right in the face and the smell is marvelous. Lemon skunk is actually how I'd describe it. No earthy tones, very slight diesel smell possiblyy anyhow it turned out awesome.
 
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