jtrizzy
Well-Known Member
what LED's are you using?
Seedling, droopy leaves
- Thread starter .RootDown
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Old Thcool
Well-Known Member
Fluence Spydr2X
Old Thcool
Well-Known Member
The control for environment is pretty basic and fairly inexpensive. In my case it was a gift from a buddy that has far more indoor experience than me. He does not use this device he has a more advanced ( expensive) unit to run his rooms.
My take on this unit ... it works fine but ... the old timey line matrix screen is very limited for info creation. Hard to read. The menu is ridiculously confusing until you kinda figure it out. The manual is next to useless. Other than that- she works like a charm.
Skoal
Well-Known Member
That’s so true. You can always do a light misting for the top layer of soil instead of drenching everything. That will prevent over watering for sure. Also like someone else pointed out, just because the top layer is dry does not mean the bottom is. You want the roots to stretch to the bottom anyways. By having water or moisture down there helps facilitate it. But end of the day you scared your plants are drying up then give them a light mist. If you are running a room st 36C then yeah you should be watering more cause your soil is drying up from the heat and the light. But you shouldn’t be that high. My tent with a 400watt MH on with seedlings under it runs at 25-27C during the day.
Sigh...... stop telling people to use Gibberellins on their seeds and focus on the basics. First put a bunch of holes in those cups so the water drains right through them. Next cut that coco pith 50% with Xlg perlite, like this. So yes transplant them (even into the same size container but cut the pith with perlite). Only use Pith for seedlings (and Jiffy pellets work easier).
Then you water them when the top is just lightly dry, you don't want them dried completely but you don't want them sitting in soggy media, hence the need for drainage holes. Think of it like you are growing in Hydroton.
cannabineer
Ursus marijanus
Just make sure you have air/drainage holes in your cups or pots. Coco does best when it drains freely and has good air exposure.
Lighten coco pith with coco coir, perlite or Hydroton. That allows air to reach the root zone.
Budzbuddha
Well-Known Member
Overwatered ... just mist a little as needed with a light stream of spray bottle at little stalk.
Do not fully saturate cup ... you will drown it / damp off.
Do not fully saturate cup ... you will drown it / damp off.
.RootDown
Well-Known Member
I have holes in the bottom of the cup.
Also, I'm in soil. Someone else brought up Coco in the thread and the discussion went a bit off track from there, but I'm using Fox Farms Oceans Forest. I germinated in a rapid rooter and planted that in the medium.
Good point about saturating the medium. That's exactly what I was doing- allowing it to dry and soak everything. She looks a bit better now but the cup feels very light. I did not water based on the recommendation of this thread.
My temps are definitely an issue. Yesterday it peaked at 93. I've got the tent exhausting through the roof with a 6" fan. I'm working on some solutions including adjusting the thermostat in the house. Looks like mu electric bill is going up again!
cannabineer
Ursus marijanus
Sorry for participating in that confusion. I did a grow in Happy Frog, a medium I am told is much like Ocean Forest. Having a wet/dry subjective weight reference cup helped me a lot.
I think that with your humidities, your temps are high but still OK.
Are you in the Southern Hemisphere? Your high temps suggest that to me.
.RootDown
Well-Known Member
I figured out why my leaves were drooping- the roots were drying out.
Upon hearing the suggestions made in this thread I didn't water for an extra day or so (even though the cup was very light after three days) and the drooping got much worse. I watered in fairly well with some improvement, and after three days it was light again. I decided to transplant to a 1gal fabric pot, and when I did I found the medium was indeed completely dry and the root system was at the bottom of the cup, root bound and drying out at the drainage holes.
It's only been two days since the transplant, and she already looks much better! I started a journal in the appropriate forum if you're interested in following along.
Sorry for the potato quality, I'll fix that for any future uploads.
Upon hearing the suggestions made in this thread I didn't water for an extra day or so (even though the cup was very light after three days) and the drooping got much worse. I watered in fairly well with some improvement, and after three days it was light again. I decided to transplant to a 1gal fabric pot, and when I did I found the medium was indeed completely dry and the root system was at the bottom of the cup, root bound and drying out at the drainage holes.
It's only been two days since the transplant, and she already looks much better! I started a journal in the appropriate forum if you're interested in following along.
Sorry for the potato quality, I'll fix that for any future uploads.
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min0r
Well-Known Member
it's the opposite of what you're thinking. don't let the plant fool you
drooping from ONLY the the leaf, not the stem going up to the leaf is from over watering, in this case you have.
drooping WITH the stem going up to the leaf is that your pot is dry.
when i was in soil how i thought the best way to water your plants was to let your soil completely dry to where the leaves look underwatered (stem drooping with leaf) then give them a heavy watering, and i'd be good for a week or so. this encourages the roots to look for wet soil once the soil starts to dry out, creating amazing root development.
careful when youre doing this, don't mistake one type of drooping for another.
that drooping that you still have is from OVER watering, since the ONLY leaf matter is drooping.
sorry if i'm repeating it alot, it's just a common misconception that's really hard for people to understand sometimes.