DIRTHAWKER
Well-Known Member
what do yall use to seal the cracks in your rooms?
sealing your grow room
- Thread starter DIRTHAWKER
- Start date
DIRTHAWKER
Well-Known Member
Thanks guys,, i knew it was one of those. duct tape seems like it might peel off after a while, caulking would be messy on the carpet floor, foam too, maybe weather stripping on the floor and duct tape on the ceiling.
specialkayme
Well-Known Member
I prefer electrical tape over duct tape. It's move light proof. I have used caulk and that foam stuff in the past, but it's kinda messy. I personally prefer a fabric material, called 'Black Out'. It's what they make curtains out of. It's totally light proof, white in color, and costs about $5 a yard. Not too bad. It fits to whatever you need. Either that or the Panda Poly stuff.
I have much more experience sealing cabs, not really rooms though, so maybe this wouldn't work for you.
I have much more experience sealing cabs, not really rooms though, so maybe this wouldn't work for you.
Depends on what you mean by sealing... I've got all of my basement grow room sealed up with poly sheeting (4 mil I think) that I got on sale at home depot. Basically warped the whole room in it (ala Dexter style) because its an old house with an old foundation and I'd like to have a nice sealed environment. For the places where there was light to seal out, I used Black Out fabric like Special suggested. Its all held together with staples holding the poly in to the walls and ceiling and duct tape linking the sheets together.
ibuildthings
Active Member
painters caulk. Flexible, durable, paintable, and easy to remove. Unlike spray foam insulation which is an extemely large pain in the ass to remove.
DIRTHAWKER
Well-Known Member
I just used some stuff called rope caulk, its like a putty rope, i just rolled it out and stuffed it into the bigger cracks. Then duct taped over that..perfect.
BigBudBalls
Well-Known Member
Everything and anything. I stopped using duct tape and traded up to the aluminum tape. *zero* light through it. Have bi-fold doors with foam on the mating edges (holds the doors closed better two due to the compression) Garage door seal at the bottom and top. (that was fun, not!)
Light still leaks a little. But only light in the room at night/dark is a TV. A TV ain't much light and the little bit that squeaks past the cracks ain't gonna hurt nutin!
Fugedabodit!
Light still leaks a little. But only light in the room at night/dark is a TV. A TV ain't much light and the little bit that squeaks past the cracks ain't gonna hurt nutin!
Fugedabodit!
specialkayme
Well-Known Member
Does any of that light leak come from the bifold doors? Thats the only hard part I'm having with the black out fabric, in the hinges and the top and bottom it works great.
BigBudBalls
Well-Known Member
Mainly top and bottom. Hinges and ends are fine. The leaks are small volume-wise. No hermies thus far (though all from a strong female mother)
specialkayme
Well-Known Member
Yeah, I got mine down to like pinhole light leaks. I would really like to get those sealed up for security reasons though. It's just kinda difficult with cloth in a bifold door. Every time you open and close it, the cloth shifts a little.
BigBudBalls
Well-Known Member
For the hinges, staple the cloth as a 'second' hinge.
Security for me isn't an issue. I have the doors cracked open most of the time.
I was pondering magnets/strips to hold, but still allow easy opening/closing. Also spring loaded flaps. (I have a killer set of tools; lathe, mill, etc, along with access to CNC lasers) But figured it too much work for the results for me.
specialkayme
Well-Known Member
I like how we just hijacked this thread. Sorry.
I'm so envious of your tools. I wish I had a workshop.
But I can't seem to completely understand your design idea. As far as the spring loaded flaps go.
BigBudBalls
Well-Known Member
Its not that hijacked. Its still on topic.
Now how about them Mets !?!?!
The spring loading flap would have been along the top and bottom because as the bi-fold opens, the corners move inwards a little bit. The spring loaded flap would just hinge back when pushed. Just a rubber flap wold wind up deforming.
specialkayme
Well-Known Member
Its not that hijacked. Its still on topic.
Now how about them Mets !?!?!
The spring loading flap would have been along the top and bottom because as the bi-fold opens, the corners move inwards a little bit. The spring loaded flap would just hinge back when pushed. Just a rubber flap wold wind up deforming.
Makes sense, but a little too complicated for my needs. I'll just stick to my cloth set up.
DIRTHAWKER
Well-Known Member
OK new question, I just bought a 465 cfm 6 inch inline fan for my exhaust. I am running duct into the attic all the way to the attic vent, just couple feet from the ceiling hole. My question is how do i seal around the ducting on the ceiling? so my room stays sealed?
BigBudBalls
Well-Known Member
Duct tape? There are flanges that will go through the hole, then you bend over the tabs to hold it in place. Then attach the duct to that. A bead of sillycone around the flange face will help too.
beennoobed
Well-Known Member
bigbuds, u kno of any good links to a effient mother chamber/ clone
