Sealed / liquid cooled tent grow supply list - am I missing anything?

Hello all :)

I am ready to start piecing together my supplies for my liquid cooled sealed tent grow. I would love input from everyone on specific brands/items, or to let me know if I'm missing anything.

This is my list so far:

General Setup Cost (One time Costs)

1/4 HP chiller
Chiller reservoir
Chiller pump
Carbon Filter for scrubber fan
Scrubber fan (already have)
Fan speed controller
Duct muffler
12,000 btu A/C (already have, won't run unless needed)
Spare CO2 tank

Per Tent Setup Cost

4x4 tent
1000w Ballast (Unsure which brand)
1000w Bulb (Unsure which brand)
Fresca Sol platinum tube
Socket assembly (all Fresca Sol tubes have a note "Doesn't include socket assembly", not sure where to get this)
Fresca Sol magnum reflector
Circulation fan - 16"
Sentinal CPPM-4 controller
CO2 Regulator
CO2 Tank
rDWC / ScroG setup (res, containers, airstones, pump, screen, etc)


I was looking into environmental controllers like the iPonic 600 or the Agrowtek, but the iPonic doesn't do everything I want, and the Arowtek is priced out of reach (for the moment). Looking to run two plants DWC/ScroG in the tent. Looking to possibly add more identical tents down the line short term, and build out a veg / flower room setup in a basement down the line long term. If that happens, I know the tent itself plus the CO2 controller won't be enough, but I would like to be able to reuse everything else.

Thanks in advance for the input everyone!
 
controllers for chilller or co2 are great but whole room controllers are a waste of big money imo. i run 36 plant perpetual flower room without, and i have looked at many(almost went for growtronics), i dont see the cost giving back or making it easier
i like the phantom ballasts and ushio bulbs. dont forget rh.
 
controllers for chilller or co2 are great but whole room controllers are a waste of big money imo. i run 36 plant perpetual flower room without, and i have looked at many(almost went for growtronics), i dont see the cost giving back or making it easier
i like the phantom ballasts and ushio bulbs. dont forget rh.

Thanks for the reply :)

One of the huge selling points for me on a whole room controller is being able to get readings remotely. I'm an information junkie, and I have a need to know that everything is ok at any given time. A little OCD is a good thing, right? ;) But alas, I don't see it happening this go round.

Also, thanks for the heads up on the humidity. I knew I was forgetting something :)
 
Hello all :)

I am ready to start piecing together my supplies for my liquid cooled sealed tent grow. I would love input from everyone on specific brands/items, or to let me know if I'm missing anything.

This is my list so far:

General Setup Cost (One time Costs)

1/4 HP chiller
Chiller reservoir
Chiller pump
Carbon Filter for scrubber fan
Scrubber fan (already have)
Fan speed controller
Duct muffler
12,000 btu A/C (already have, won't run unless needed)
Spare CO2 tank

Per Tent Setup Cost

4x4 tent
1000w Ballast (Unsure which brand)
1000w Bulb (Unsure which brand)
Fresca Sol platinum tube
Socket assembly (all Fresca Sol tubes have a note "Doesn't include socket assembly", not sure where to get this)
Fresca Sol magnum reflector
Circulation fan - 16"
Sentinal CPPM-4 controller
CO2 Regulator
CO2 Tank
rDWC / ScroG setup (res, containers, airstones, pump, screen, etc)


I was looking into environmental controllers like the iPonic 600 or the Agrowtek, but the iPonic doesn't do everything I want, and the Arowtek is priced out of reach (for the moment). Looking to run two plants DWC/ScroG in the tent. Looking to possibly add more identical tents down the line short term, and build out a veg / flower room setup in a basement down the line long term. If that happens, I know the tent itself plus the CO2 controller won't be enough, but I would like to be able to reuse everything else.

Thanks in advance for the input everyone!

don't take this the wrong way bud but this all sounds WAY off track. i really don't even know where to start. i run water cooled rooms and have for a while. i've actually tested a few products for some of the bigger companies. i'm gonna point out some things that seem weird to me.

* 1/4hp chiller isn't gonna do much. it "might" help you remove the heat of the lamp but it will not cool your grow room. the most efficient way to run a chiller that size would be on a very small reservoir. maybe 15-20 gallons max. your a/c is going to be working. how much depends on where you live and the temps of the room around your tent. burning co2, ballasts, pumps, etc....all create heat that your a/c is going to need to cool. no way you will be able to add anything in the future. i can guarantee that. you may also need a dehumidifier. it just depends on your relative humidity and how much your ac is actually working.

* i know some guys who use them but those fresca sol things are CRAP in my opinion. you'd be much better off running an ice box by hydro innovations. sounds like you don't have a full handle on the whole water cooling thing. feel free to ask me any specific questions. also, check out www.hydroinnovations.com and the videos they have. really informative stuff. anyway...frescas suck. i've heard of leaking issues, i've heard they are a pain to setup, i've heard of footcandle reduction, etc... not worth it in my opinion.

* you are gonna need a pump to push water to your chiller and another one to push water to your equipment. you can get centrifugal pumps with multiple ports. either way, any pump you get needs to have enough lift on it so compensate for the height of your lights and reservoir. i would say at least 15' of lift.

* why do you need a fan speed controller? if you are using that fan/filter combo to scrub the air in the room and recirculate it then just let it run. for fans and filter i recommend CAN.

* for ballasts i recommend Lumatek and for bulbs i say Hortilux. i've used them both for a while and couldn't be happier. great warranties and their products outperform the others in my opinion.

* a socket assembly is a "mogul socket" this is where you plug the bulb into. any online hydro store sells them. the reflector/hood should come with one but double check.

* if you are using a 1000w light in a 4x4 tent you don't need a magnum reflector. i use 2 600w lights in a 4x8 tent. 1000w is plenty. you don't need to spread the light that much. better off finding a good mid sized reflector.

* don't get a 16" fan. it's too big. if anything a single 12" or two of those 6" clip-on fans is fine. you don't want a hurricane in your tent. just a light breeze. plus you already have the fan/filter which will be circulating air as well.

* spending $500 on a co2 controller in a 4x4 tent is a huge waste of money in my opinion. save that money for a better chiller or better setup. you can get decent co2 controllers for half the price or cheaper. you don't need the "best" co2 controller for a room that size. it's your money but you can use it better elsewhere.

* you will have to have that a/c in the room if you set this tent up this way. even if you can keep the chiller, chiller reservoir, pumps, ballasts, etc... out of the room you won't have the space to really scrog 2 plants much bigger than 2x2 screens. i would put the 2 plants against the back wall and cover them each with a 2x2 screen. this will give you 2 feet in front for equipment and to work in. you might be able to get away with 2x2.5 or 2x3. just depends on how big your ac is and how much other equipment will be in the room. will also depend on whether or not you will be working "in" the room. i go in my tents and close them behind me when i am working in there. but my tents are in the garage with bugs, heat, etc... if your tent is in the basement or a bedroom you might be fine just opening the tent and working on it from outside. either way, figure you will need to be able to reach under the screen to change out the reservoir and stuff.

* i know we talked about this but neither of those environmental controllers is what you want. i thought you were working with a MUCH larger space. using a $1000-$1500 controller in a 4x4 tent is a waste. you won't even scratch the surface of what they can do. save the money...you don't need one of those. not even close. get yourself a nice $400-$500 controller that will monitor your lights, Co2, fans, etc... that's all you need.
 
for not a lot of money i got a wifi webcam and a wifi to ir box that lets me see the room and control temps from anywhere using my tablet and an app.
 
don't take this the wrong way bud but this all sounds WAY off track. i really don't even know where to start. i run water cooled rooms and have for a while. i've actually tested a few products for some of the bigger companies. i'm gonna point out some things that seem weird to me.

Not taking anything the wrong way. This is still a new hobby for me, and I know I have lots to learn. I'll gladly take constructive criticism all day :)

* 1/4hp chiller isn't gonna do much. it "might" help you remove the heat of the lamp but it will not cool your grow room. the most efficient way to run a chiller that size would be on a very small reservoir. maybe 15-20 gallons max. your a/c is going to be working. how much depends on where you live and the temps of the room around your tent. burning co2, ballasts, pumps, etc....all create heat that your a/c is going to need to cool. no way you will be able to add anything in the future. i can guarantee that. you may also need a dehumidifier. it just depends on your relative humidity and how much your ac is actually working.

The only thing that 1/4 HP chiller is for is to cool the lights. I don't need it to scale beyond possibly cooling a second lamp. I might step to a 1/3 or 1/2 hp chiller, but it will depend on value. I have other plans for this chiller down the road, when/if I grow beyond a couple of lamps. I am going to be using a CO2 tank, so no heat from a generator. The temp in the surrounding room is mid-high 70's, so I was hoping to get a 10 degree diff and keep the inside of the tent at mid-high 80s, which should be good for the CO2. I agree on the dehumidifier, I did forget about that.

* i know some guys who use them but those fresca sol things are CRAP in my opinion. you'd be much better off running an ice box by hydro innovations. sounds like you don't have a full handle on the whole water cooling thing. feel free to ask me any specific questions. also, check out www.hydroinnovations.com and the videos they have. really informative stuff. anyway...frescas suck. i've heard of leaking issues, i've heard they are a pain to setup, i've heard of footcandle reduction, etc... not worth it in my opinion.

The #1 issue I am facing at the moment is noise. I can't have a room full of fans, so water cooling is a must for me. That (to the best of my knowledge) leaves me between the Fresca Sol's, and the Liquid Lumens. I was leaning toward the Fresca Sols because of the magnum reflector. If the water cooling works the way it is supposed to, I should be able to get 12 inches or less from the canopy with my reflector. I was worried about being able to get the footprint I need at that distance with just a wing reflector.

* you are gonna need a pump to push water to your chiller and another one to push water to your equipment. you can get centrifugal pumps with multiple ports. either way, any pump you get needs to have enough lift on it so compensate for the height of your lights and reservoir. i would say at least 15' of lift.

I was planning on using an inline pump to cool the lights. I agree on the needs of the pump, haven't picked an exact model until I set everything up and see actual line lengths. I am aware that the #1 mistake that most people make when trying to liquid cool lights is jamming too big of a pump in the setup. If the water moves too quickly, it doesn't absorb enough heat from the light, nor does it cool properly in the chiller. I know I will need a separate pump for my rDWC setup. Other than that, what other equipment are you talking about needing to cool?

* why do you need a fan speed controller? if you are using that fan/filter combo to scrub the air in the room and recirculate it then just let it run. for fans and filter i recommend CAN.

Fan speed controller is for the noise. For the extra $20, I like knowing I have another means to quiet it down if needed.

* for ballasts i recommend Lumatek and for bulbs i say Hortilux. i've used them both for a while and couldn't be happier. great warranties and their products outperform the others in my opinion.

Awesome, thanks :)

* a socket assembly is a "mogul socket" this is where you plug the bulb into. any online hydro store sells them. the reflector/hood should come with one but double check.

And again, thanks :)

* if you are using a 1000w light in a 4x4 tent you don't need a magnum reflector. i use 2 600w lights in a 4x8 tent. 1000w is plenty. you don't need to spread the light that much. better off finding a good mid sized reflector.

As mentioned above, I'm worried about footprint with being as close to the plants as I intend (hope) to be.

* don't get a 16" fan. it's too big. if anything a single 12" or two of those 6" clip-on fans is fine. you don't want a hurricane in your tent. just a light breeze. plus you already have the fan/filter which will be circulating air as well.

Fan/Filter is for the spare bedroom in which the tent is housed, so it won't be moving air inside the tent. Good input on the circ. fan size though, thanks.

* spending $500 on a co2 controller in a 4x4 tent is a huge waste of money in my opinion. save that money for a better chiller or better setup. you can get decent co2 controllers for half the price or cheaper. you don't need the "best" co2 controller for a room that size. it's your money but you can use it better elsewhere.

I'm all ears on cheaper ways to get PPM accuracy on the CO2 controller :) I will agree, out of everything I am looking to buy for this, the controller is the one piece that really irks me to spend that much on.

* you will have to have that a/c in the room if you set this tent up this way. even if you can keep the chiller, chiller reservoir, pumps, ballasts, etc... out of the room you won't have the space to really scrog 2 plants much bigger than 2x2 screens. i would put the 2 plants against the back wall and cover them each with a 2x2 screen. this will give you 2 feet in front for equipment and to work in. you might be able to get away with 2x2.5 or 2x3. just depends on how big your ac is and how much other equipment will be in the room. will also depend on whether or not you will be working "in" the room. i go in my tents and close them behind me when i am working in there. but my tents are in the garage with bugs, heat, etc... if your tent is in the basement or a bedroom you might be fine just opening the tent and working on it from outside. either way, figure you will need to be able to reach under the screen to change out the reservoir and stuff.

Agreed it will be tight. I've been looking at the space needed. Might go 5x5 to give me some extra room.

* i know we talked about this but neither of those environmental controllers is what you want. i thought you were working with a MUCH larger space. using a $1000-$1500 controller in a 4x4 tent is a waste. you won't even scratch the surface of what they can do. save the money...you don't need one of those. not even close. get yourself a nice $400-$500 controller that will monitor your lights, Co2, fans, etc... that's all you need.

Your input on the Agrowtek is what helped me realize that the iPonic isn't going to cut it for me. If it can't give me details on my water, it's useless in a hydro setup. I *will* be working with a much larger space if everything goes as planned (not trying to be Tony Montana, I'm talking about moving to a place where I can run this legally, and spread out a bit), which is why I was willing to shell out for a good controller now that may be overkill, if it will meet my needs later. Figured it would be a good "getting to know my new controller" experience. Haven't made that phone call on the Agrowtek yet, but after looking at my numbers again, I think it just needs to wait.

Thoughts on my thoughts? :)
 
That is pretty interesting. I can understand being able to see the room, but what is allowing you to *control* temps?
its a wifi to infrared transmitter i programmed with my minisplit ac remote codes and access via web. the cam has pan/tilt/zoom so i can see temp readout on ac tstat, and dehumidifer.
 
* the 1/4hp chiller is really only enough to cool the temps off 1 1000w light. if you were to try and cool 2 lights off that chiller you'd run into problems. nothing your ac couldn't handle but you would need it. if you are sticking with a single 1000w for now then you could run the tent with probably just an exhaust fan but since you are running Co2 you probably don't want to do that so you will need to have the a/c in the tent.

* water cooling works...i can attest to that. even then, you don't want a 1000w light much closer than 12" for fear of light bleaching your plants. i can walk in any of my grow rooms right now and lay my face on the glass my lights are so cool. the technology and theory works and is very efficient.

* look at the Hydro Innovations Ice Box. i think i gave you the link already. much better than liquid lumens and fresca sol. you actually exhaust the hot air from your light through a heat exchanger. much more efficient than surrounding a bulb in glass. you are going to have a fan in the room anyway for your carbon filter. what you do is hook your carbon filter up to one end of your reflector and then hook your fan to the other end. then stick your Ice Box on the other side of your fan. that would be exactly how i would set it up. I have tents here at my house that are setup essentially that way. i'm running 3 4x8 tents on a 3hp self contained chiller. 2 600w lights per tent. water cooled co2 generators and reservoir coils. completely sealed rooms. i also have another space that runs a 12hp chiller and 2 4 ton water cooled air handlers along with water cooled generators, water cooled dehumidifiers, and reservoir coils.

* you need a pump that will basically pump water through your chiller and then back to the chiller reservoir. don't worry about having too much pressure...the chiller has an inlet pressure valve. it will only allow so much water to pass through the chiller at 1 time. plus, it's a recirculating system. the chiller is cooling the reservoir. it doesn't matter how fast the water goes through the chiller. you will need another pump to push water from the same reservoir to your water cooled lights. again, pump pressure doesn't matter. trust me. you do want to add propylene glycol to your reservoir. this will extend your chiller life by protecting the coils in the internal chilling reservoir. it will also save your ass in the event your pump fails. it will prevent the coils from freezing. it's basically RV/marine antifreeze. it's pink and you can get it at any hardware store for $5 a gallon. 30% prop.gly. and 70% water.

* 1000w lights are capable of sufficiently lighting a 5x5 area with optimal footcandles. every time light is reflected it loses strength. if you get a magnum reflector in that tent you will be reflecting a lot of light off the tent. why reflect light off the hood and then the tent when you can just reflect it once off the hood? with a magnum reflector you'll be wasting light. Even at 12" from the canopy a normal hood will give you a 4x4 footprint which is more than you need in that tent.

* hydro innovations makes a Co2 controller that is only around $250. it's not the greatest thing on the planet but it works and has a good warranty. what sucks about it is that you can't control the ppm. it's set to come on at 1100ppm and when the room gets to 1500ppm it shuts off. this is optimal level for most growers so it's not a bad deal. also C.A.P. makes several controllers that will work for co2. some would not be autoimatic and would require you to set time and length of co2 release but they are cheap and with a little practice you'll have it dialed in within a day. they also have controller/monitors that do have sensors that regulate release automatically for much cheaper than $500.

* wait on the agrowtek. if anything, get a real chiller. i know you are looking at one of those ecoplus or active aqua ones. those things are dogshit dude. seriously. good for maybe cooling a single light or a reservoir. that's about it. and they will fail on you after a while. you are about to spend $1000-$1500 on a environmental controller that is EXTREME overkill for a 4x4 tent. take that money and get yourself a real chiller. you won't regret it later on. ecoplus has a commercial line of chiller (1 & 1.5hp) and chillking has smaller chillers (1, 1.5, 2hp) that are much better suited for what you want to do. plus the chillking units can be mounted in a window. you really need to mount a chiller outside cause if you put it inside it will fail on itself unless you are pumping a/c in the room the chiller is in and that's pretty much pointless.
 
* look at the Hydro Innovations Ice Box. i think i gave you the link already. much better than liquid lumens and fresca sol. you actually exhaust the hot air from your light through a heat exchanger. much more efficient than surrounding a bulb in glass. you are going to have a fan in the room anyway for your carbon filter. what you do is hook your carbon filter up to one end of your reflector and then hook your fan to the other end. then stick your Ice Box on the other side of your fan. that would be exactly how i would set it up. I have tents here at my house that are setup essentially that way. i'm running 3 4x8 tents on a 3hp self contained chiller. 2 600w lights per tent. water cooled co2 generators and reservoir coils. completely sealed rooms. i also have another space that runs a 12hp chiller and 2 4 ton water cooled air handlers along with water cooled generators, water cooled dehumidifiers, and reservoir coils.

* you need a pump that will basically pump water through your chiller and then back to the chiller reservoir. don't worry about having too much pressure...the chiller has an inlet pressure valve. it will only allow so much water to pass through the chiller at 1 time. plus, it's a recirculating system. the chiller is cooling the reservoir. it doesn't matter how fast the water goes through the chiller. you will need another pump to push water from the same reservoir to your water cooled lights. again, pump pressure doesn't matter. trust me. you do want to add propylene glycol to your reservoir. this will extend your chiller life by protecting the coils in the internal chilling reservoir. it will also save your ass in the event your pump fails. it will prevent the coils from freezing. it's basically RV/marine antifreeze. it's pink and you can get it at any hardware store for $5 a gallon. 30% prop.gly. and 70% water.

Ok, so I looked at the ice box site. So Air would flow like this: Intake Air -> carbon filter -> air cooled hood -> Fan -> Ice box -> Duct muffler -> exhaust (now cooled) air. I understand how this would cool the exhaust air (and in turn stabilize the temps in the tent), but how would this cool your bulb beyond normal air cooling? How are you getting them cool enough to lay your face on the glass, like you said?
 
Ok, so I looked at the ice box site. So Air would flow like this: Intake Air -> carbon filter -> air cooled hood -> Fan -> Ice box -> Duct muffler -> exhaust (now cooled) air. I understand how this would cool the exhaust air (and in turn stabilize the temps in the tent), but how would this cool your bulb beyond normal air cooling? How are you getting them cool enough to lay your face on the glass, like you said?

it would go.... air intake > carbon filter > hood > ice box > fan > exhaust

it's a different principle of cooling the heat generated by the bulb. it workmore efficiently because you are able to cool all radiant heat as well from the hood. if you hook up an adequate fan to a hood and exhaust that air out of the room and the temps in your room are correct then you will have no problem placing your face on the glass. it's not the water cooling that cools the hood; it's the amount of airflow removing that heat from inside the hood.

you are dead set on sealing the room so you can add co2. to be totally honest with you it would be more efficient for you to loose the water cooling and just run the light on an open stle reflector. you already have a 12,000btu a/c which is more than enough to cool a room with a single 1000w in it. $300-$450 for a portable a/c is a lot cheaper than getting multiple or commercial chillers, pumps, reservoirs, etc...
 
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