Samsung H series strips, Arrow seems to be blowing them out! what a deal!

Grow Lights Australia

Grow Lights Australia

Well-Known Member
salmonetin said:
curious pdf on safety theme...

Power Supply Safety Standards, Agencies, and Marks | CUI Inc

The ability to sell power supplies, either built-in or external types, around the world depends on meeting the relevant safety standards that apply in those territories. These standards are defined and administered by national or international agencies with various...
www.cui.com www.cui.com

si Wilson activala por si acaso...

e function actived

paz

Saludos
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Good link. This is one of the reasons why < 60V may be preferred for DIY.

Safety Extra-Low Voltage (SELV) CircuitA secondary circuit that cannot reach a hazardous voltage between any two accessible parts or an accessible part and protective earth under normal operation or while experiencing a single fault. In the event of a single fault condition (insulation or component failure) the voltage in accessible parts of SELV circuits shall not exceed 42.4 Vac peak or 60 Vdc for longer than 200 ms. An absolute limit of 71 Vac peak or 120 Vdc must not be exceeded.
SELV circuits must be separated from hazardous voltages, e.g. primary circuits, by two levels of protection, which may be double insulation, or basic insulation combined with an earthed conductive barrier.
SELV secondaries are considered safe for operator access. Circuits fed by SELV power supply outputs do not require extensive safety testing or creepage and clearance evaluations.
 
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DukeFluke

Well-Known Member
Barristan Whitebeard said:
The higher voltage arrangement should run a little more efficiently (higher voltage drivers are slightly more efficient than lower voltage drivers as well).

There will be less voltage drop in the circuit with a higher voltage arrangement. This would be more pronounced if you remote mount your driver(s) and used an inadequately sized wire gauge.
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What is an inappropriate sized wire for this arrangement?
 
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babybud

Well-Known Member
So I am sure I will catch some slack but figured I'd share. Eventually ill strip this frame down for a proper heatsink but after sanding 1 strip with my orbital i gave up and will use a best sander in the future. The aluminum channel I used was 4ft track lighting strips that i got for $1 a piece shipped.. Took the plastic and copper strips out of the inside, plastic in the garbage, copper in my scrap pile. Garage door wire to home depot style wago's, then 12 gauge to 1 more wago and 320W meanwell hlg. power to driver provided by an old DVD player I haven't used in ages. Overall less that $80 bucks into this since i got the driver off ebay for $30 shipped. I did order flux paste but havent used it yet.. Ill save it for the next buiild where I sand down the frame and crank the wattage on the lights. I ordered a $3 15A smart plug off of ebay which shut the light off properly.

Oh most importantly, 20 of the 2ft H series 4K wired to a hlg 320h-24a so not pushing to much power and why I did not continue with sanding paint off and heatsink paste. Will try to get watts at wall and FLIR temp readings in the next few days if anyone is interested.
 

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babybud

Well-Known Member
I didnt have the light on long but looking at the photos i too the top right row seems to have a few under powered diodes. I do no not believe it was the angle as i have other pics from different angles. anyone know how arrow will deal with this?
 
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loco41

Well-Known Member
Was just snooping around arrow at some samsung strips again and came across these cheap 90 cri strips. They are discontinued lm561b+ diodes, but there are a few different 90cri color temps/diode counts available right now for around/under $1. Do you guys think pairing something like these discontinued strips would be worth the boosted red spectrum on the typical 80cri 4k diodes that a bunch of us just bought or would it just be a waste in the long run?

https://www.arrow.com/en/products/si-b9w111560ww/samsung-electronics link to 24 diodes//2700k 90cri @ 75¢ per

https://www.arrow.com/en/products/si-b9v151560ww/samsung-electronics link to 32 diodes//3000k 90cri @ 90¢ per

https://www.arrow.com/en/products/si-b9u171560ww/samsung-electronics link to 48 diodes//3500k 90cri @ $1.22 per
 
getogrow

getogrow

Well-Known Member
DukeFluke said:
I meant regarding the remote mounting and voltage drop smart ass.

What wire gauge would cause too much drop over what distance, approximately, for example.
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depends on how much power your running to them and the voltage your running them at. in a "normal" area , i will say you cannot go wrong with 16awg wire. You should be able to run that across the room an still not lose voltage. (20 ft ish)
 
getogrow

getogrow

Well-Known Member
babybud said:
So I am sure I will catch some slack but figured I'd share. Eventually ill strip this frame down for a proper heatsink but after sanding 1 strip with my orbital i gave up and will use a best sander in the future. The aluminum channel I used was 4ft track lighting strips that i got for $1 a piece shipped.. Took the plastic and copper strips out of the inside, plastic in the garbage, copper in my scrap pile. Garage door wire to home depot style wago's, then 12 gauge to 1 more wago and 320W meanwell hlg. power to driver provided by an old DVD player I haven't used in ages. Overall less that $80 bucks into this since i got the driver off ebay for $30 shipped. I did order flux paste but havent used it yet.. Ill save it for the next buiild where I sand down the frame and crank the wattage on the lights. I ordered a $3 15A smart plug off of ebay which shut the light off properly.

Oh most importantly, 20 of the 2ft H series 4K wired to a hlg 320h-24a so not pushing to much power and why I did not continue with sanding paint off and heatsink paste. Will try to get watts at wall and FLIR temp readings in the next few days if anyone is interested.
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i thought the link you posted was an accident? so you really got them 48" pieces for a buck ? holy fuck , is there any more ? thanks bud!
 
ilovereggae

ilovereggae

Well-Known Member
getogrow said:
i thought the link you posted was an accident? so you really got them 48" pieces for a buck ? holy fuck , is there any more ? thanks bud!
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Yeah I was wondering that too. Can we get a link @babybud?? The cheapest I've found aluminum led strips/tracks wholesale locally by me is $2.50 a foot. I actually held off buying any of these strips knowing the frame build was out of my budget at the moment since I dont really need any more lights. $1 for a 4ft track is a game changer tho!
 
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babybud

Well-Known Member
Here is a link to them on amazon, but there are also other online shops if you search the model #. I ordered from amazon and 1 other site ill have to dig for but both orders came in under a week. I bought about 50 of these and after taking them apart I also have a few pounds of clean copper. Cant forget the heavy duty cardboard swords that turn into nun chucks. Way better than the bubble wrap the strips came with. Apparently cutting the bubble wrap into small pieces and putting them under the toilet seat is not okay.

Progress Lighting P9054-31 LED Black 48" Track - - Amazon.com

Progress Lighting P9054-31 LED Black 48" Track - - Amazon.com
www.amazon.com
 

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babybud

Well-Known Member
getogrow said:
i thought the link you posted was an accident? so you really got them 48" pieces for a buck ? holy fuck , is there any more ? thanks bud!
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Should be plenty left... I don't think anyone paid attention to the link when I originally posted it but that may change now. Sanding them isn't really fun so I plan to dip them in paint stripper and then just rinse off.
 
ilovereggae

ilovereggae

Well-Known Member
babybud said:
Should be plenty left... I don't think anyone paid attention to the link when I originally posted it but that may change now. Sanding them isn't really fun so I plan to dip them in paint stripper and then just rinse off.
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I just grabbed 20 of them to have for next time there is a blowout sale. Im running some of the Vestas now for veg at 700ma and they barely get warm. I wonder how much more efficient sanding them down will make the tracks? Are you doing so just so you can run the strips hotter? Especially when they are that cheap I just like to double up on strips and run them soft at nominal wattage. I wonder if I would even need to do it. If I do need to, I'll probably try to find a shop that does sandblasting, I am def not sanding those all down by hand even with a belt sander.
 
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babybud

Well-Known Member
ilovereggae said:
I just grabbed 20 of them to have for next time there is a blowout sale. Im running some of the Vestas now for veg at 700ma and they barely get warm. I wonder how much more efficient sanding them down will make the tracks? Are you doing so just so you can run the strips hotter? Especially when they are that cheap I just like to double up on strips and run them soft at nominal wattage. I wonder if I would even need to do it. If I do need to, I'll probably try to find a shop that does sandblasting, I am def not sanding those all down by hand even with a belt sander.
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Yeah only going to strip them down if i need better performance. I don't have this build hanging yet but will eventually post temps and watts at the wall
 
Rocket Soul

Rocket Soul

Well-Known Member
ilovereggae said:
Yeah I was wondering that too. Can we get a link @babybud?? The cheapest I've found aluminum led strips/tracks wholesale locally by me is $2.50 a foot. I actually held off buying any of these strips knowing the frame build was out of my budget at the moment since I dont really need any more lights. $1 for a 4ft track is a game changer tho!
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If strips are cheap, and sinking alu is expensive its better to just buy more strips and run them super soft. Most strips can run around 5w per foot, especially if youre running your diodes around 0.1w per diode. Each situation is individual but really sometimes the solution is just buying more strips, leverage diode count.
 
haze010

haze010

Well-Known Member
Rocket Soul said:
If strips are cheap, and sinking alu is expensive its better to just buy more strips and run them super soft. Most strips can run around 5w per foot, especially if youre running your diodes around 0.1w per diode. Each situation is individual but really sometimes the solution is just buying more strips, leverage diode count.
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For the Samsung h strips you definitely need no heatsink @ 700ma. I've been using mine 3 years that way without and they only get warm to the touch. I've never run them at 1050ma but I wouldn't be surprised if that's fine too.
 
Prawn Connery

Prawn Connery

Well-Known Member
Barristan Whitebeard said:
Hey Prawn Connery. According to the datasheets, the PCBs for the Samsung F-Series Gen. 3 and H-Series strips are made from the same materials. The H inFlux strips are the ones to incorporate an aluminum PCB.

With that being said, I've seen people on this forum say that the double row F-Series strips do have aluminum PCBs. I can't say yea or nay for sure as I don't currently own any of those strips.

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Well I need to eat some humble pie. My F-Series arrived today and they are definitely FR-4 – not aluminium. Either my memory is shot (highly likely!) or they changed the PCB from a couple of years ago when they were first released. I'll go and check on those builds I did later just to be sure, but the ones I have in my hands are fibreglass. Sorry for giving you and anyone else a bum steer. :oops:
 
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