Roseman and purpdaddys guide for my Bubbleponics setup from Stealth Hydroponics

narzgoth

Member
Im in my 4th week of growing Auto-Ak and am wondering when is best to introduce the bubbleponics bloom nutrients. My babies are in their preflowering stage i think, White hairs are appearing. should I go ahead and switch?
 

rreign

Active Member
I swear there is a point to this post so just be patient, lol. Ok, yesterday was interesting for me. My freakin internet was down and I had to do a bunch of research the old fashioned way. It gave me some insight about the resevoir I wanted to use and some various other things. Which by the way, to let everyone know in case you were wondering... an 18 gallon res (sterilite) is 20" x 14.15" x 16.5". It will take right at 10 gallons to reach the depth of water you will need for the bottom of your net pots to maintain recieving proper oxygen. This weighs 79.8lbs with the res. Good luck trying to change that every week, lol. I also found out that there is 192 teaspoons per quart of liquid and there is 5mL in a teaspoon. So there's some basic math for you and your nutes.

This brings me to my point/question. The perfect resevoir that we want is the exact one that SH offers (which turns out to actually be a 10 gallon tank, not an 8 gallon) I'll be using the 10 gallon Sterilite with (5) 5.5" net pots.

I have decided to use FoxFarm nutrients. The reason being is that the over-all cost per grow is actually less. The problem I am having with this is that FF requires a MUCH higher PPM than the SH. This worries me. If you will take a look at the feeding chart HERE you will see that in the first week they want you between 1120 - 1260 PPM. Thats rediculous. The plant will just flat out die. So how do I break this down to a more accurate chart for the little girls? If someone could help me figure this out, there's some rep in it for you.

Thanks
 

purpdaddy

Well-Known Member
I swear there is a point to this post so just be patient, lol. Ok, yesterday was interesting for me. My freakin internet was down and I had to do a bunch of research the old fashioned way. It gave me some insight about the resevoir I wanted to use and some various other things. Which by the way, to let everyone know in case you were wondering... an 18 gallon res (sterilite) is 20" x 14.15" x 16.5". It will take right at 10 gallons to reach the depth of water you will need for the bottom of your net pots to maintain recieving proper oxygen. This weighs 79.8lbs with the res. Good luck trying to change that every week, lol. I also found out that there is 192 teaspoons per quart of liquid and there is 5mL in a teaspoon. So there's some basic math for you and your nutes.

This brings me to my point/question. The perfect resevoir that we want is the exact one that SH offers (which turns out to actually be a 10 gallon tank, not an 8 gallon) I'll be using the 10 gallon Sterilite with (5) 5.5" net pots.

I have decided to use FoxFarm nutrients. The reason being is that the over-all cost per grow is actually less. The problem I am having with this is that FF requires a MUCH higher PPM than the SH. This worries me. If you will take a look at the feeding chart HERE you will see that in the first week they want you between 1120 - 1260 PPM. Thats rediculous. The plant will just flat out die. So how do I break this down to a more accurate chart for the little girls? If someone could help me figure this out, there's some rep in it for you.

Thanks
Simple just add alot less per gallon..see where the ppm is ,raise or lower or keep still if proper..very easy bro.:bigjoint:
 

rreign

Active Member
Let me see if I got my math right here. Then hopefully someone can tell me if I got it right. PPM according to FF should be at 700 to 840 for seedlings. They want me to have 1tsp per gallon of the Grow Big and 2tsp per gallon of the Big Bloom. There's 5mL in a teaspoon. So, I would have to go with about 2mL per gallon of the Grow Big and 3.5mL per gallon of the Big Bloom and that should put me right in the range of about 100 - 300 PPM for Seedlings.

Is this all correct. (Sorry, I'm kind of a math/science guy)
 

purpdaddy

Well-Known Member
Let me see if I got my math right here. Then hopefully someone can tell me if I got it right. PPM according to FF should be at 700 to 840 for seedlings. They want me to have 1tsp per gallon of the Grow Big and 2tsp per gallon of the Big Bloom. There's 5mL in a teaspoon. So, I would have to go with about 2mL per gallon of the Grow Big and 3.5mL per gallon of the Big Bloom and that should put me right in the range of about 100 - 300 PPM for Seedlings.

Is this all correct. (Sorry, I'm kind of a math/science guy)
U are on the correct path..measure those NEW numbers in nute strength(PPM)
and see what u got,make adjustments if necessary.
U can just add plain water to the mix to lower the ppm.
 

purpdaddy

Well-Known Member
Summary of Macronutrients
Macronutrients are the elements most vital to all plant-life. There are three major and most prominent macronutrients: Nitrogen (“N”), Phosphorus (“P”), and Potassium (“K”). All fertilizers contain these three fundamental elements, but in varying amounts, depending on fertilizer type/brand. The N-P-K ratio of the fertilizer will be listed on the side of the container/box in the form of three numbers separated by hyphens (e.g. 20-20-20, etc.); choose a fertilizer that correlates with your specific needs and stage of plant-growth. TIP: In their vegetative state, cannabis plants thrive primarily on “N” and “P”; and in their flowering-stage, “P” and “K” become more essential.

Summary of Micronutrients
Along with the basic macronutrients, plants also require micronutrients (or Trace-Elements) for sustained health and vigor. Some of these trace-elements are Calcium (“Ca”), Magnesium (“Mg”), Sulfur (“S”), Manganese (“Mn”), Boron (“B”), Zinc (“Zn”), and Copper (“Cu”). They are present in most, if not all, fertilizers, but in generally lesser portions than the major macronutrients.

Below is a list of the basic macronutrients and micronutrients/trace-elements, along with the horticultural-benefits and deficiency-symptoms of each:

Element Name: Nitrogen
Symbol: N
Atomic Number: 7
Atomic Mass: 14.00674
Horticultural-Benefit: Nitrogen promotes photosynthesis, and is directly responsible for the production of chlorophyll. It stimulates leaf and stem growth, and aids the overall size and vigor of the plants.
Deficiency-Symptoms: A nitrogen-deficiency can be recognized by reduced growth-rates and yellowing of the leaves (starting with the older/lower leaves). Colder soil-temperatures make nitrogen less-available to plants.


Element Name: Phosphorus
Symbol: P
Atomic Number: 15
Atomic Mass: 30.973762
Horticultural-Benefit: Phosphorus aids in the germination of seeds, and the growth of seedlings and roots. It is also vital the production of terpene resins, floral clusters, and necessary sugars and starches. Phosphorus also influences overall vigor.
Deficiency-Symptoms: A phosphorus-deficiency can be noted by reduced growth-rates and the production of smaller leaves which wilt/drop quickly. The leaves will be a dull, bluish-green, which will turn purplish or bronzy, and will have seared edges. Excessive “P”-levels can initiate a potassium-deficiency.


Element Name: Potassium
Symbol: K
Atomic Number: 19
Atomic Mass: 39.0983
Horticultural-Benefit: Potassium is important to your plants for metabolic changes during flowering, and the production of floral clusters. It also promotes general plant-vigor, disease-resistance, and sturdy growth.
Deficiency-Symptoms: A potassium-deficiency will retard growth-rates, and cause leaf-tips and -edges to become a scorched-brown color, with curled margins.


Element Name: Calcium
Symbol: Ca
Atomic Number: 20
Atomic Mass: 40.078
Horticultural-Benefit: Calcium is a key ingredient in cell-walls. It strengthens stems/stalks/branches, and also contributes to root-development/growth, primarily that of the rot-tips.
Deficiency-Symptoms: A calcium-deficiency can be recognized by distorted leaves, with hooked tips and curled margins. A deficiency would also result in under-developed roots, with weak root-tips.


Element Name: Magnesium
Symbol: Mg
Atomic Number: 12
Atomic Mass: 24.3050
Horticultural-Benefit: Magnesium is significant for chlorophyll-production and most enzyme reactions. It is responsible for healthy leaf-structure and -production, as well as sustaining healthy vein-structure in the leaves.
Deficiency-Symptoms: A magnesium-deficiency will affect various plant-species differently. The most common symptoms in cannabis plants are a vivid yellowing of the leaves, followed by leaves falling without withering, starting with the older/lower leaves. Excessive “Mg”-levels may initiate a calcium-deficiency.


Element Name: Sulfur
Symbol: S
Atomic Number: 16
Atomic Mass: 32.066
Horticultural-Benefit: Sulfur, being an ingredient in plant-protiens, is vital for protein-production, chlorophyll-production and vegetative growth.
Deficiency-Symptoms: A sulfur-deficiency can be identified by retarded growth-rates, accompanied by small, mutated leaves which are round in shape and roll upwards. Leaves will become stiff and brittle, and will fall off. A “S”-deficiency will also cause flowers on the top of kholas to die.


Element Name: Manganese
Symbol: Mn
Atomic Number: 25
Atomic Mass: 54.93805
Horticultural-Benefit: Manganese is a catalyst for many enzymes, and also aids photosynthesis/ chlorophyll-production.
Deficiency-Symptoms: A manganese-deficiency will have varying symptoms, depending on plant-species. The most common symptoms in cannabis plants are a yellowing of chloroplasts while stems remain relatively green. White or grey specks/spots may develop on the surfaces of leaves. As is usually the case, older/lower leaves will be affected first. Excessive “Mn”-levels may cause an “Fe”(iron)-deficiency, which will exhibit symptoms similar to a “Mn”-deficiency.


Element Name: Boron
Symbol: B
Atomic Number: 5
Atomic Mass: 10.811
Horticultural-Benefit: Boron aids the movement of necessary sugars, as well as reproduction, and water intake by cells. It also assists in the production of stems/stalks/branches, and keeps calcium in a soluble form. Furthermore, “B” contributes to leaf-production/-coloring/and -structure.
Deficiency-Symptoms: A boron-deficiency can be recognized by distorted and/or dead growing tips, hollow stems, and malformed fruits/flowers. Plants suffering from a “B”-deficiency frequently exhibit scorched, curled leaves, which are often spotted and discolored; young/vegetative leaves are affected first. Excessive “B”-levels may cause plants to exhibit symptoms similar to those of “Mg”-/”K”-deficiencies.


Element Name: Zinc
Symbol: Zn
Atomic Number: 30
Atomic Mass: 65.39
Horticultural-Benefit: Zinc-levels directly affect plant-size and -maturation , as it is necessary for the production of plant-proteins. Consequently, “Zn” is vital to the production of leaves and stalks/stems/branches.
Deficiency-Symptoms: A deficiency of zinc will result in the yellowing of chloroplasts between leaf-veins, usually with purplish spots of dead cells on leaf-surfaces; older/lower leaves are the first to show symptoms. Vegetative-growth is retarded and deformed, and floral-growth is reduced. Excessive “Zn”-levels can initiate an “Fe”(iron)-deficiency.


Element Name: Copper
Symbol: Cu
Atomic Number: 29
Atomic Mass: 63.546
Horticultural-Benefit: Copper is responsible for healthy, vigorous growth, and strengthens stalks/stem/branches. It is also necessary for the production of plant-proteins, and is crucial for reproduction.
Deficiency-Symptoms: A copper-deficiency can cause otherwise green leaves to adopt a bluish hue. Vegetative growth may fail to unfold, and may be yellow at the tips and edges.
__________________
 

purpdaddy

Well-Known Member
Who woulda ever thunk that you're a Botanist, Purp???
Man thats crazy cause i met up with a guy i havnt seen in 10+ years and hes a chemist and a HUGE pothead,so i was explaining all the n-p-k and micro nutrients and which helps what out and he was just starring at me in AWE like DAMN I DIDN'T EXPECT tHIS!
He knows about growing for the clinics in Cali and said that this was prolly my calling!
 

jnos45

Well-Known Member
From what I read there are different forms of bubbleponics. What I use is a 1 gallon clean milk jug, 2 pcs of 2 foot aquarium air hose and a aquarium pump. You can run 4 airlines from 1 single air pump. I get the medium crushed gravel (rinsed real good) to fill the jug with and peat cubes. With this little setup and a veg room and flower room I am havesting every month. The first intial crop only took 90 days from germination to harvest. My babies get between 6ft to 9ft tall depending on the strain. I have 2 sets of lights - 1 400 watt mh and 2 400 watt hps lights. My babies don't suffer at all. I use 2 different types of hydro juice - I bought 2lbs of powder and 3 bottles of liquid and I think the liquid is just a little better but for the money powder is the best. Liquid gives a bit more robust buds. I enjoy checking on my babies everyday. I can watch them grow on a daily basis. In 1 week my white widow is about 6" to 7" tall. This is the easiest way to go that I know of and the cheapest. You can buy conversion lights w/bulbs from ebay for $150.00.
jnos45
 

KidIccaris

Member
I just received my dual SH system with control res.. and i wanted to germinate my seeds in the system since twice now I have had problems with germinating in paper towels and then transplanting i can get the seeds to germinate a well the first time i know I scorched them, second time not really sure what happened. Anyway my questions are
- so do I add six gals. to the control rez and to each of the pods?

-since I am going to germ in the system do I still need to soak the rockwool cubes or can i just give them a light soak and rinse and let them soak in the system?


I am new to the whole forum thing so any mistakes in etiquette or posting is without intent. look forward to growing together
 

MostlyCrazy

New Member
Set up your system as directed on the CD. After you have it phsically set-up add 6 gallons of water and ph it to around 5.5 - 5.9. Take a little of the water out and soak you rockwool cube in that water for a day. Just pour a little on each cube in a tray until it is good and moist. I use about 6 oz of water for 6 rock cubes. When you have them soaked a day take the tray to the bathroom, Go to the shower stall, hold the rockwool loosely in your hand and try to throw a faseball by Barry Bonds! Water will fling everywhere but the excess water is now out of the rockwool.

Put your rockwool in the system with the feeder hose butted again the center of the rockwool on the side. Now rockwool cubes that have a prepunched hole in them. Don;t use that side as it is way too deep and really designed to stick clones in. Turn the cube over, make yourself a little hole but not too deep and bury your seed just enough to cover the seed. Run your system 24/7 and that will keep your rockwool evenly moist. No lights until you see a seed leaf pop through the rockwool.

You might also want to soak your seeds while you soak your rockwool. I have mine in that same 5.5-5.9 water in a pong cup. You can tell a seed is soaked when it drops to the bottom of the cup. Soaking make it easier for the root to pop out by softening up the seed cover.
 

rreign

Active Member
Hey Roseman or Purpdaddy or any other knowledgeable Bubblehead..... Can you check out this guy's thread... (<--- clicky) I am just getting pissed off about this other guy's comments in there and he is being led in the wrong direction due to it. He needs your expertise. I have tried to help but I'm not sure he's getting it. Thanks in advance guys.
 
Hi Roseman, ty for all your time over the years on this and all your threads...You rock...I am a newbe buying the sh bubbleponic, 4x4 tent, ( of corse all the fans and lights and have nots)...but I was wanting to use the sog methed, and saw in one of your posts that it wasnt the way to go.My master plan was to have 6 tubs in one 4x4 tent, but starting with 1. cloning would take place in a second tent for light sake. tell me your thoughts please, and ty very much...you are much appritiated, not like my spelling...
PS..I want to use a 320 watt led system for lights
 

MostlyCrazy

New Member
Roseman's take is that with sog you are limiting your final production per res. With sog you only get maybe 1- 1 1/2 oz per plant max and by growing them out you can get 3-4 oz per plant. The design of the BP system is for 6 regular seeds of which you will get 3 fems on average and then grow those out to be 12 oz of bud per res. You can do it with sog but get less productution but considering your space it may be easier to manange the shorter plants and still have room to work. Neither I nor Roseman has any experince with LED's.
 

KidIccaris

Member
Thanks MC things have been a bit hectic and I am just now starting to soak, but did not seem to receive a cd with my order and yeah I am pretty sure I should of, but no biggie its not like I cant download it or anything.
 
Very good info thanks fellas...ive been reading alot more on hydroponics over the past week than i ever had and this is the first time i have posted about them. I plan on making a bubbleponics system real soon but my only question is where do you get the manafold for the feeder tubes. I feel that this is the only part that will be hard to find.
 
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