Root Rot

How often have you all experienced root rot with your (R)DWC systems? From what I've read, even with running a chiller, keeping light out, using hydro nutes, and with high DO, some have still had root rot issues.

I'm just curious know how prevalent is root rot and other infections and diseases are with running a (R)DWC system where everything is hypothetically done right?

Not very likely when ran right.

Ive only had issues when i've accidentally hit one of the valves on my air pump manifold and didn't realize.

Also when I run too hot of water.

Never had it any other times.

I had it once because I have a water level tube on the side of my one bucket that slowly collected bacteria crap in and i hadn't cleaned it properly after the prior grow.

Basically keep your equipment clean, keep water temps down and use a preventative whether it be bennies or h202.

OTE="doniboy, post: 12617912, member: 555135"]How often have you all experienced root rot with your (R)DWC systems? From what I've read, even with running a chiller, keeping light out, using hydro nutes, and with high DO, some have still had root rot issues.

I'm just curious know how prevalent is root rot and other infections and diseases are with running a (R)DWC system where everything is hypothetically done right?[/QUOTE]
Ive thought the bubbles popping is what got dwc roots too really take off.

doniboy said:

How often have you all experienced root rot with your (R)DWC systems? From what I've read, even with running a chiller, keeping light out, using hydro nutes, and with high DO, some have still had root rot issues.

I'm just curious know how prevalent is root rot and other infections and diseases are with running a (R)DWC system where everything is hypothetically done right?

Click to expand...

Dwc is a pain to get right ive found. The water level hs to be right, and like 68-72f all times plus air pump

Even if you have everything on point eg. water temperature, clean reservoir, no smells, super high DO levels, I would STRONGLY advise you to get some sterelizing agent like chlromaine, hypochlorite, H202 etc.

whiteribbonpig said:

OTE="doniboy, post: 12617912, member: 555135"]How often have you all experienced root rot with your (R)DWC systems? From what I've read, even with running a chiller, keeping light out, using hydro nutes, and with high DO, some have still had root rot issues.

I'm just curious know how prevalent is root rot and other infections and diseases are with running a (R)DWC system where everything is hypothetically done right?

Click to expand...

Ive thought the bubbles popping is what got dwc roots too really take off.

Dwc is a pain to get right ive found. The water level hs to be right, and like 68-72f all times plus air pump[/QUOTE]

It's a pity you are having issues. I think its possibly one of the easiest ways to grow and I'm only doing my first rdwc run, but have grown many years in organic soil.

If you can't keep water temps below 72 you will have problems. If your grow room has a nice cold floor you are golden.

I've grown DWC for several years and even more harvests. I've never had root problems, I live in a warm climate and if I'm growing in the summer months my water is regularly above 75 degrees. Hell, I've even read 80 degree water a few times and whether it was luck or just being safe, I don't know which it is.. I think the key is to have more than enough movement in the water tanks to keep the water well oxygenated and constantly moving. I use white 48 qt marine coolers for my tanks and I always clean the tanks with Hydrogen Peroxide and water before starting the next batch. I use hydroton pellets and I soak and rinse them several times to get all the crap out of the pellets and I also use a bit of HP when prepping the hydroton. I wipe the netpots with HP and clean everything as well as I can. Another thing is I keep all light out of the water tanks.

My grow is in a walk-in closet with a 4x2x7' tent. I use a 300w LED and a few 68w CFLs around the sides with reflectors when vegging and I add a 400HPS for flowering except in the dead of summer just because I can't keep the grow room below 80 degrees in the summer months with the HPS going.

I've grown feminized seeds mostly and my share of autos. My last batch was Chemdog Autos and the first one was ready 72 days from sprouting and the others ran as much as a month or more longer, pretty easy to get an ounce off the ones that grow longer, the early bird was fast but it only yielded 12g dry. A few years ago I grew some Chemdog feminized from Green House seeds and I grew a 7 footer that yielded 13oz from one plant! That one I vegged for 40 days and then flowered for 14.5 weeks and it was the most potent weed I ever smoked, much less grew... it was so narcotic that at least 4 seasoned smokers got so wasted they got sick. My best batch of autos was some AK49 Autos, I was able to average 3oz per plant and the quality was nearly as good as normal plants.

I have been running hydro set ups for 13 years, and have clear white roots all the time...just keep temps in 64 to 70 range...roots like the lower temps but not below 60, unless finishing for purple color, and get a good air pump with air stones and get plenty of oxygen to root zone...the more the better..these are pics from a budget dwc grow...I cloned off that mother for six months before flowing her

kelevra1572 said:

a good air pump with air stones and get plenty of oxygen to root zone...the more the better..

Click to expand...

Kele, In your opinion, what does “a good air pump with air stones and get plenty of oxygen to root zone...the more the better..” mean?

25% DO Saturation, 50% DO Sat, 75% DO Sat, 100% DO Sat, 125% DO Sat ---- what is “Plenty of oxygen?”

Or do you really mean “Plenty air to the root zone” and just hope there will be enough O2 in the air?

Thanks for specifying what “plenty Oxygen” means and how you measure that.