Root Clone Test - pictures

tom__420 said:

Which makes me wonder why people are wasting their time....
Even when you get sprouts it will only be a small sprout
With a clone or revegged plant it is a full blown plant, not a small seedling

I guess maybe people want to say that they did it but from the looks of it this is not a practical way of reproducing

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Exactly............even if this works.....it takes way too long to use for any practical means....it was just a cool experiment if anybody would have reported success....but it has been long enough and we can pretty much say it's a no go.....anybody get anything????????????????????????

dude just think about this if you take the roots off of the plant during veg when you repot your plant if you do, than you will have a ton of sprouts by the time the plant goes into flowering. so why not have a ton of new plants instead of taking clones, i mean not everyone is pro at taking clones even though it seems so easy some still die and this all you have to do is pull some roots put it into something like a ziplock and than all you have to do is wait. now if your impatient (which im sure you are) than this is not a method for you. but dont hate on it and say this is a stupid method. its just another method.

and this is like a last resort just in case you didn't take clones from your plant.

Why would you do this when revegging the plant would be quicker?
I may be impatient if that means I won't sit around for months waiting for sprouts when I could just as easily clip a clone and have a new plant in a week or two

hotsxyman911 said:

dude just think about this if you take the roots off of the plant during veg when you repot your plant if you do, than you will have a ton of sprouts by the time the plant goes into flowering. so why not have a ton of new plants instead of taking clones, i mean not everyone is pro at taking clones even though it seems so easy some still die and this all you have to do is pull some roots put it into something like a ziplock and than all you have to do is wait. now if your impatient (which im sure you are) than this is not a method for you. but dont hate on it and say this is a stupid method. its just another method.

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First off I never said this was stupid.....second, not one of you guys has had any type of sprouts....so how could you try to persuade anybody this is a way to reproduce more plants.........I was hoping someone would get some sprouts that is why I subscribed to this and your thread but not one person has reported any success...hmmmm I wonder why?????It's not a waste of time if you learn something...but it is safe to say unless someone has any sprouts yet that this hasn't worked and probably won't work.....I have been growing for a little over 10 years......I am into efficiency,and maximizing yields.....I have tried almost everything......cloning is the most efficient way of reproducing more plants plain and simple....I understand if you didn't take any clones and you want to keep the strain this would be ideal if it worked but it hasn't,a prepared grower takes clones in the event the strain would show favorable traits and if it don't you simply discard the clones...that is a simple as it gets,if you don't like what I'm saying then that's on you....I'll keep doing what has brought me success and you do what pleases you......I hope you get sprouts......really.........

i think you guys are doing it wrong
that's why i put up all that research
you cant just throught the roots in a sealed wet bucket
you have to cut them up into small parts
close to the rootball and place them in the same way the naturally grow down

even if it takes longer than revegging, if you did it on a larger scale, over time, if you cut up enough rootballs, say 10 of em, you would have a perpetual propagation system thats almost effortless when compared to cloning from cuttings. if one rootball produced 10 sprouts of fem plants, and it takes say 80 days for sprouts to appear with leaves; (and the way i see it is that 10 would be a conservative number if the method can be refined and perfected) then if you cut up 10 rootballs, from plants that were cloned from a female, by the time your current harvest is done, you would have an estimated 100 cloned feminized plants rerady for vegging... without taking a single cutting or using a milligram of rootone or a drop of clonex. if you cant see the benefits to that, especially for SOG's then i just dont know what to say.

i have never seen, personally, a cannabis plant that was cloned using this method. im very curious what the 'shoots' would look like as they emerge from the ground, as seedlings have cotyledons

IAm5toned said:

even if it takes longer than revegging, if you did it on a larger scale, over time, if you cut up enough rootballs, say 10 of em, you would have a perpetual propagation system thats almost effortless when compared to cloning from cuttings. if one rootball produced 10 sprouts of fem plants, and it takes say 80 days for sprouts to appear with leaves; (and the way i see it is that 10 would be a conservative number if the method can be refined and perfected) then if you cut up 10 rootballs, from plants that were cloned from a female, by the time your current harvest is done, you would have an estimated 100 cloned feminized plants rerady for vegging... without taking a single cutting or using a milligram of rootone or a drop of clonex. if you cant see the benefits to that, especially for SOG's then i just dont know what to say.

i have never seen, personally, a cannabis plant that was cloned using this method. im very curious what the 'shoots' would look like as they emerge from the ground, as seedlings have cotyledons

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it would take clone only strains to a new level - think of how much space you would be saving by only having sprouts
but i read that this takes anywhere form 6 months to a full year to sprout for other types of plants
for me learning this would mean the ablity to save a strain that is form unknown orgin,- i grow bagseed and every now and then that fire as seed that i grew was over the top fire, but this i didnt no untill harvest so at that point it would be to late to clone
but not if this worked

even if it took as long as 6-12 months,. if the timing could be dialed in, then its simply a matter of staggering the timing of the root clones so that they coincide with your harvest times.
im all about this. if it wasnt so fuckin cold where im at, i would be doing it myself, but im out of space in the 'lab', so i can just see it now, me carrying in a bucket of dirt and roots into the house, and the old lady just standing there with 'the look' we all know, and me saying 'what?'

It is perfect if you live in a place with a harsh winter such as canada, See heres where it all starts:
You have harvested your plants in the fall time and a month has gone by, your buds are all dried and cured now and you have your smoke in hand. You light up that spliff when you find that that bagseed you planted is some super killer ass bud and you decide you want to grow it again. But wait you forgot you have used all of those seeds up and now smoked the final product.... Oops you didnt take any clones either.... Idiot what were you thinking! Well there stands your rootball from that plant that your smoking.
So now the snow is starting to fall and you decide before things freeze up too much more you bury your rootball and the remaining couple inches of that stalk that have dried up. So you dig a hole into your compost pile and for best results try to get it into the middle area where it will be least exposed (Even though it may not help or it may makea wold of difference) then you pile the compost back on to it and pour the soil from those dreaded buckets ontop of the pile!
4months later you are digging around in your pile for dirt for your garden when you notice a small weed plant sprouting out of your pile, start digging until you have successfully extracted yout tiny girl out of the soil and throw her and some soil n a bucket and let her grow out another year.
Viola! It has been done before and it will be done again, Just be sure to make some clones this go around because she will loose her potency over the next couple years of repeating this due to the harsh conditions and many other factors.
This is not a experiment it is a fact.
Thank You, Come again!

IAm5toned said:

even if it takes longer than revegging, if you did it on a larger scale, over time, if you cut up enough rootballs, say 10 of em, you would have a perpetual propagation system thats almost effortless when compared to cloning from cuttings. if one rootball produced 10 sprouts of fem plants, and it takes say 80 days for sprouts to appear with leaves; (and the way i see it is that 10 would be a conservative number if the method can be refined and perfected) then if you cut up 10 rootballs, from plants that were cloned from a female, by the time your current harvest is done, you would have an estimated 100 cloned feminized plants rerady for vegging... without taking a single cutting or using a milligram of rootone or a drop of clonex. if you cant see the benefits to that, especially for SOG's then i just dont know what to say.

i have never seen, personally, a cannabis plant that was cloned using this method. im very curious what the 'shoots' would look like as they emerge from the ground, as seedlings have cotyledons

Click to expand...

IAm5toned said:

even if it took as long as 6-12 months,. if the timing could be dialed in, then its simply a matter of staggering the timing of the root clones so that they coincide with your harvest times.
im all about this. if it wasnt so fuckin cold where im at, i would be doing it myself, but im out of space in the 'lab', so i can just see it now, me carrying in a bucket of dirt and roots into the house, and the old lady just standing there with 'the look' we all know, and me saying 'what?'

Click to expand...

Cloning is still more efficient........if you could even get anything to sprout it would take so long compared to cloning....by the time you have your first sprout (if possible) you could have had a whole bunch of clones rooting and vegging.....and by the time your sprouts would be vegging the clones would already be flowering if not done because it has been a month and nobody has had any results....and other clones would already have been taken right before the switch.....so how could this be more efficient????To get clones you need to veg for a certain amount of time...ok....to get a nice root ball you have to grow your plant until there is a nice size root ball.....ok....the difference is at that time the plants have a big enough root ball and are ready to be cloned the clones will be ready in 7-14 days and the the roots will take much longer......so why wait so much longer when the end result is gonna be the same???I'm sure clones and plants produced from roots will produce the same or did I miss something????

jcdws602 said:

Cloning is still more efficient........if you could even get anything to sprout it would take so long compared to cloning....by the time you have your first sprout (if possible) you could have had a whole bunch of clones rooting and vegging.....and by the time your sprouts would be vegging the clones would already be flowering if not done because it has been a month and nobody has had any results....and other clones would already have been taken right before the switch.....so how could this be more efficient????To get clones you need to veg for a certain amount of time...ok....to get a nice root ball you have to grow your plant until there is a nice size root ball.....ok....the difference is at that time the plants have a big enough root ball and are ready to be cloned the clones will be ready in 7-14 days and the the roots will take much longer......so why wait so much longer when the end result is gonna be the same???I'm sure clones and plants produced from roots will produce the same or did I miss something????

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For example....
Where I live getting caugth transporting 1-5 clones eqals BIG fine. Getting caught with 6 and more means I go to jail.
Being stopped by LEA with bucket of dirt in my car...I go home and laugh about it.

I agree with pterzw but I dont think anyone listened to my input on this.... Go back a page and read up. Its a sure way to keep genetics and especially if you dont have room in the grow room for that clone plant or in the winter if you dont have a grow room..... well there you go! Think outside the box dude!

IMO= I dont know anyone who keeps ther bucket with a plant that has been chopped off at the stalk in their grow room while they are using the space to grow! Doesnt make much sense.... Once again thats where my theory of the compost pile comes into play! I have alot of ideas to share if anyone wants to hear them or maybe agrees to what im saying, it works and always will work.... Just do it if you want to save your genetics, its simple and effective!

jcdws602 said:

Cloning is still more efficient........if you could even get anything to sprout it would take so long compared to cloning....by the time you have your first sprout (if possible) you could have had a whole bunch of clones rooting and vegging.....and by the time your sprouts would be vegging the clones would already be flowering if not done because it has been a month and nobody has had any results....and other clones would already have been taken right before the switch.....so how could this be more efficient????To get clones you need to veg for a certain amount of time...ok....to get a nice root ball you have to grow your plant until there is a nice size root ball.....ok....the difference is at that time the plants have a big enough root ball and are ready to be cloned the clones will be ready in 7-14 days and the the roots will take much longer......so why wait so much longer when the end result is gonna be the same???I'm sure clones and plants produced from roots will produce the same or did I miss something????

Click to expand...

Yoda: "I cannot teach him. The boy has no patience."
Obi-Wan: "He will learn patience."

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its all about patience man....
im fully aware you could clone 5 dozen batches in the time it takes to to rootclone, as im sure everyone on this thread is as well.
frankly, i would love a way to have hundreds of clone without using a cloner, and if it takes a few months or even a year to develope this technique, i am fully prepared to wait it out.

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Don't forget getting sprouts for your most amazing feminized autoflower pheno. A cloned cutting from an autoflower plant is the same age as the mother so normal cloning will not continue the genetics. But we're hoping that a budded root sprout with calydons ages as a new plant and not a continuation of the mother. A possible method of retaining and passing on genetics for autoflowers that are worthy of being a clone-only plant.

(Nick's idea from page 3)

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Things are still looking good though I'm concerned that my temperature is dropping too much at night - last time I did this was in spring/summer and the warmer temps might have contributed. I have an aquarium heater in my bubbler and I'll figure something better out for my dirt buckets. I've read that constant temperature is important, not warm and cool.

Some of the roots have that "something is happening" look that cuttings get when they swell just before rooting. I do feel that I have to fix warmer constant temperatures for this to work, missing ingredient right now.

Settle in, it gonna be a while.

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Grow more plants with root cuttings

Use this simple technique at the right time to multiply some of your favorites

by Hunter Stubbs

The major benefit of root cuttings is the simplicity of the process. Four easy steps can produce a large number of plants without requiring fancy equipment. This method of propagation requires that most of our efforts take place in very late autumn or very early spring, two times when we have a short list of gardening chores. The ensuing growing season will find your new plants filling out, and by the fall, they should be ready for a permanent place in your garden design.



Uncover the roots when the plant is dormant

Root cuttings are most effective if taken when plants are dormant, usually between November and February. This timing maximizes the stored energy in the roots and minimizes the stress on the parent plant. Once a plant breaks bud in the spring, energy begins to move out of the roots and into the plant, reducing the effectiveness of root cuttings. I also make sure the parent plant is well hydrated and was not under drought stress when it went dormant before I take any cuttings.

When collecting roots on smaller plants, such as perennials, I find it easier to simply lift them in their entirety. For shrubs, I unearth some of the roots on one side of the plant, digging in close proximity to the base to ensure I find roots belonging to the right plant. I then trace them out from the plant until I have a suffi*cient length to take several cuttings.


Make sure you find the right root. Digging close to the base of your shrub ensures that you get roots from the right plant.


Then make sure you choose a living root, not a dead, black one.




Choose roots that are pencil thick



Shrub roots can get quite large and woody, but the best ones for cuttings are those approximately as thick as a pencil. These are young, vigorous roots that are more likely to send up new shoots. With perennial roots, thicker is better. I use a sharp pair of pruners to make a straight cut at the end of the root closest to the parent plant. At the far end, I make a diagonal cut. This helps me maintain the root’s original orientation, critical to the production of new roots and shoots. I always avoid cutting off more than one-third of the roots because this may eliminate too much of the plant’s stored energy.

I then take the long pieces of root I removed and cut them into sections 3 to 6 inches long, making sure to cut the ends closest to the plant straight and the ends farthest from the plant at an angle. The optimal length is 3 to 6 inches because it ensures that there is enough energy in the cutting and, in some cases, enough dormant buds to produce roots and shoots.

After taking the cuttings, I replant the mother plant or cover the exposed roots. Then I water the area thoroughly to remove large air pockets in the soil and settle the roots back into their home.

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Place the cuttings in soil, and wait

To get the most out of my cuttings, I treat perennials and woody plants differently at this stage.



Place perennial roots horizontally because they can send up shoots from several places along a cutting.

Perennials

I like to propagate perennial root cuttings in flats because they produce shoots quickly and have the ability to break bud in several places along the root. I place the cuttings horizontally, ½ inch deep, in a flat of moist potting soil (photo, above). To maintain high humidity, I cover the flat with a plastic bag or a pane of glass and place it under lights.

Woody Plants

If I’m working with cuttings from a woody plant (photos, below), I tie them in a loose bundle with like ends together. To locate the cuttings after storage, I wrap them with bright marking tape, allowing a few extra feet to hang from the bundle. I dig a hole below the frost level and place a few inches of sand in the bottom to ensure that the cuttings don’t rot from poor drainage. I then place the bundles with the slanted ends facing down in the bottom of the hole and refill it.

Tying the cuttings in a bundle makes them easier to find when it is time to dig them up
http://www.finegardening.com/CMS/uploadedimages/Images/Gardening/Issues_111-120/041111045-02_xlg.jpg

The entire hole doesn’t need to be filled with sand. But it is essential in the bottom to reduce the potential for rot.
http://www.finegardening.com/CMS/uploadedimages/Images/Gardening/Issues_111-120/041111045-03_xlg.jpg

Colored tape or some other type of marker wrapped around the cuttings and sticking aboveground will keep you from planting on top of the bundle.
http://www.finegardening.com/CMS/uploadedimages/Images/Gardening/Issues_111-120/041111045-04_xlg.jpg



Plant new shoots outside, and keep them moist

Cuttings stored in the ground should be ready to lift within three to four weeks but can stay buried for much longer if the weather remains too cold for them to be planted outside. When they are unearthed, the cuttings will likely have roots and, occasionally, some small shoots forming on the cuttings. Even if I see neither sign of growth, I still move forward, unwrapping the bundle and separating the cuttings. I plant the cuttings in freshly prepared, loose garden soil, setting them vertically, 12 to 18 inches apart, with the tops of the cuttings (the straight ends) approximately 2 inches below the soil surface. I mark the area well to prevent planting something else in the same place. As the temperatures rise, I make sure the cuttings stay moist. In a few months, new shoots should be apparent, and they will welcome a light solution of water-soluble fertilizer.

Perennial cuttings grown inside can sprout quicker than their outdoor counterparts. After several shoots emerge, I remove the protective covers, feed them with a half-strength solution of liquid fertilizer, and, if the plants are sun lovers, supply ample light. Just like seedlings, these new shoots will need to be gradually introduced to the rigors of outdoor life before they can be planted in a permanent home.


A new shoot



Time for shoots to become plants. To help the transition, provide some TLC in the form of moist, fertile, loose soil.



The best plants to start from root cuttings

Woody Plants

Figs (Ficus carica) zones 6–9
Glory bowers (Clerodendrum spp. and cvs.) zones 7–11
Hydrangeas (Hydrangea paniculata and cvs.) zones 4–8
Lilacs (Syringa vulgaris cvs.) zones 4–8
Mock oranges (Philadelphus coronarius and cvs.) zones 4–9
Oregon grapehollies (Mahonia aquifolium and cvs.) zones 6–9
Pussy willow (Salix discolor) zones 4–8
Raspberry (Rubus biflorus) zones 6–9
Red- and yellow-twig dogwoods (Cornus stolonifera and cvs.) zones 3–8
Rose of Sharons (Hibiscus syriacus cvs.) zones 5–9
Roses, nongrafted types (Rosa spp. and cvs.) zones 2–11
Sumac (Rhus typhina) zones 3–8
Trumpet vine (Campsis radicans) zones 5–9
Weeping willow (Salix babylonica) zones 6–9 Perennials
Barrenworts (Epimedium spp. and cvs.) zones 4–9
Bear’s breeches (Acanthus mollis) zones 7–11
Blue stars (Amsonia spp. and cvs.) zones 3–10
Cardoon (Cynara cardunculus) zones 7–10
Colewort (Crambe cordifolia) zones 6–9
Comfreys (Symphytum spp. and cvs.) zones 3–9
Garden phloxes (Phlox paniculata cvs.) zones 4–8
Hollyhocks (Alcea rosea cvs.) zones 3–9
Japanese anemones (Anemone X hybrida cvs.) zones 4–8
Japanese aster (Kalimeris pinnatifida) zones 5–9
Joe Pye weed (Eupatorium fistulosum) zones 3–8
Oriental poppies (Papaver orientale and cvs.) zones 3–9
Pasque flowers (Pulsatilla spp. and cvs.) zones 4–9
Sea hollies (Eryngium planum and cvs.) zones 5–9
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http://www.finegardening.com/how-to/articles/grow-more-plants-with-root-cuttings.aspx

LOL Hobbes you must be stoned That 5hit posted the exact same thing 30 posts ago on post #166

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Dude!



It's a good artcile though, and I spaced it better this time. I'm hoping we get root budding before I find it and post it again.

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Hobbes said:

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Dude!

It's a good artcile though, and I spaced it better this time. I'm hoping we get root budding before I find it and post it again.

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Click to expand...

LMAO..me too Hobbes..me too.

Can you take any pics of the "looks like something's happening" roots you got?

Even if time wise this make no sense (to most) I think it would be damn awesome just to prove it can be done.

Like a few others have said, I can see a few applications for root cloning...mainly as a last ditch for saving genetics..but still.

going to 3rd week now, nothing showin, still optimistic.