root bound

As for the nursery knowledge...if you are going to grow a blue spruce or a citrus tree that will have a life span of decades, becoming root bound is an issue. Roots spinning out and choking the root mass is a concern for nursery plants. I definitely am light on experience, but my Bio degree at least taught me to be inquisitive. And plants that have been re-vegged, mothers for a couple of months and flowered off only have spinning at the bottom and they are not choking at all. Obviously not ideal, but also not a DWC. Most of these plants have a 90 day life span, worrying about a rootbound plant is silly. And the 1gal per foot is a good guide, but only a guide.

:leaf::peace::leaf:
 
LUDACRIS said:
i thought would give some helpfull advice instead of being a smart ass. how wrong was i. why be a moderator if you are just going to take the piss???. ABSOLUTE BULLSHIT.
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you know, that's incorrect. moderators aren't here to answer endless questions that have been answered countless times. i can't think of a single "valid" grow question that you couldn't find on your own if you just did a little searching. as a matter of fact, i don't think it's a good idea for mods to be jumping in all the time answering questions. i think that would discourage members from helping each other out, which is what should be happening....
 
shadow030303 said:
plants are 33 days into flowering. is it to late to transplant to bigger pots?:shock:
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LUDACRIS said:
if they are rootbound do it.
its never to late to transplant.
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UserFriendly said:
Don't be transplanting 33 daze into flower.
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fdd2blk said:
what is "rootbound"? :neutral: :? View attachment 375701
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Hope all you guys dont mind me pitching in my 2 cents :-). IME I have not often seen "rootbound" symptoms be any problem on a plant that is going through one cycle (or is alive only a limited time, say 5-6months or so).

The ONE time I had a problem was with a mother plant I was keeping. It started wilting here and there, and then became so sensitive to nutes I could hardly feed it anything but water. The symptoms kept getting worse till it died. When I pulled it from its pot I realized I should have transplanted it. The descriptive of bowling ball would be a good one. :)

I think there tends to be more emphasis on pot size than is necessary. However, "Rootbound" can still be a problem. MOST times it is probably not THE culprit, but certainly changing to a bigger size pot cant hurt anything.

As for transplanting in flower. Sure you can do it... But there is no real reason. The roots will grow very little once flowering is induced. I like to go up to my biggest container a week before changing the light cycle, but try things out and find out what works for you.

Lets all go smoke some bags now:joint::bigjoint::eyesmoke:
 
image010.jpg


Left side is good rooting. Right is bad. I think mabey next grow you should look into air pruning. Just started this thread. End root spinning and binding
 
Silky Shagsalot said:
you know, that's incorrect. moderators aren't here to answer endless questions that have been answered countless times. i can't think of a single "valid" grow question that you couldn't find on your own if you just did a little searching. as a matter of fact, i don't think it's a good idea for mods to be jumping in all the time answering questions. i think that would discourage members from helping each other out, which is what should be happening....
Click to expand...

i always do my research(extensively) before asking questions.
i have searched and asked various sites and people if its ok to transplant a plant in flower and everyone sings a different story and as for the mods i totally agree.
so tell me where it says you can't transplant a flowering plant.
when i know the facts(not opinions)then i will believe it(because the facts are not on this site).
THANKS.
 
LUDACRIS said:
i always do my research(extensively) before asking questions. i have searched and asked various sites and people if its ok to transplant a plant in flower and everyone sings a different story and as for the mods i totally agree. so tell me where it says you can't transplant a flowering plant.
when i know the facts(not opinions)then i will believe it(because the facts are not on this site). THANKS.
Click to expand...
that wasn't directed at you specifically. i meant whomever. you gotta know that there will be different responses to questions. there is no one answer really. you just read what there is out there and make a decision on what you want to do. different strains sometimes respond differently to different situations. i respond in a thread that there's no need to leave fans on 24/7. next thing you know, i don't know shit about growing and i should shut my trap, LOL. it's all pretty much trial and error. i've been growing for years, how did i learn? i went to grow sites and read and asked questions. when i found a method that worked for me, i copied it.
 
LUDACRIS said:
i always do my research(extensively) before asking questions.
i have searched and asked various sites and people if its ok to transplant a plant in flower and everyone sings a different story and as for the mods i totally agree.
so tell me where it says you can't transplant a flowering plant.
when i know the facts(not opinions)then i will believe it(because the facts are not on this site).
THANKS.
Click to expand...
They may not be facts, but I have checked the root system after harvest of 3 different strains. All were transplanted between 2-7 days before putting into flower. During the first 2-3 weeks of 12/12 she grows a lot and does some good rooting if there is room. I only can guess that when she starts to really flower strong and stops getting any larger...nearing the inevitable, she stops doing much rooting. Therefore the original question of whether to re pot @ 33 days, I would say no, she should be stopping growing and filling in with flowers.

My experience in looking at the root systems after harvest is there is a clear delineation in the root mass of the smaller pot and although the area with fresh medium has roots, it is far from fully exploited and therefore it only serves as a buffer between waterings. Considering this space is not fully exploited by roots yet gets wetted with nutes, I wonder if this actually could cause a build up in the medium that is not fully exploited by roots of salts?

Anyhow I would say that repotting later than a week before 12/12 gives little benefit other than a buffer during the time in flower when she really starts sucking water, however if you have the capability to attend to the water needs, I would say that in medium based container grows, a drier medium is conducive to better growth than a soggy 5 gal bucket, and IME she likes not a dry medium but AIR and if in soil, the only way to get air is when the soil is fairly dry and well aerated. So it stands to reason that several dry and wet intervals a day would be better than 3 days of suffocating wet roots. Compare this to hydroponics and it is the combination of available nutrients and plenty of oxygen whether in a constantly aerated set up or a ebb and flow that is the benefit over soil.

I have baby stepped it to coco coir, and I find it allows a wetter medium, with increased aeration, which allows healthy roots just below the surface. This new benefit comes with the new challenge of dealing with the pests who's larval stage enjoys the extra moisture as much as the ladies:-?

This is all just crap gleaned from personal experience and my demented mind, so value it as such!

:leaf::peace::leaf:
 
from experince mate i double the size of your pots, those bad boys have got a lot of growth left in them , at least 6 wks if they are outdoor, get some cheap pots and a quality compost from yor garden centre and just sit back and rub your hands
 
I'm not buying into this rootbound crap, having said that I also wouldnt transplant once you start flowering, my 2 cents....
 
fdd2blk said:
at day 33 of flowering i'd say most of your plants energy is focused on producing flowers. if you were to transplant i don't think much effort would be used for new root production. the stress would hamper your cycle, as well. :peace::joint::joint:
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LUDACRIS said:
the plants look exellent but what i said was that i was surprised/amazed that the plants that size in small pots cant be root bound.
now i am really confused.
and yes the pics are real i dont doubt it for a second.
but is it ok to transplant in full flower???????.
THANKS.
CRIS.
:confused:

a rootbound plant pic.
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LUDACRIS said:
so the theory everyone seems to say that you should allow a gallon of soil per 12" of plant is also bullshit????????.
:confused::confused:
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LUDACRIS said:
you join this thread asking some basic questions and looking for some advice and some people just want to take the piss(i.e look how small my pot is and how big my plant is does it look rootbound??).
that dosent answer my questions.
and i think it should be fair that a moderator should answer your question instead of returning questions.
i only come on this site to try and help and learn but it seems that no one wants to help.
personally i think its a joke as we should all be helping one another.
is that not what this site is all about???????.
icon8.gif
.
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LUDACRIS said:
still no answers or helpfull advice???????????.
i thought fdd would give some helpfull advice instead of being a smart ass.
how wrong was i.
why be a moderator if you are just going to take the piss???.
ABSOLUTE BULLSHIT.
icon8.gif
Click to expand...

LUDACRIS said:
THANKS heyduke and brick top.
fdd sucks.
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LUDACRIS said:
i always do my research(extensively) before asking questions.
i have searched and asked various sites and people if its ok to transplant a plant in flower and everyone sings a different story and as for the mods i totally agree.
so tell me where it says you can't transplant a flowering plant.
when i know the facts(not opinions)then i will believe it(because the facts are not on this site).
THANKS.
Click to expand...









i answered the question at POST # 10. :dunce:


then i left and went out back to blow some glass. is that OK with you or do you need your hand held? wtf does me being a mod have to do with ANYTHING?



what's with the name calling and the smart assed pm? you want a piece of me.
teu28.gif


[youtube]moeeslaEz9c[/youtube]
 
Hayduke said:
As for the nursery knowledge...if you are going to grow a blue spruce or a citrus tree that will have a life span of decades, becoming root bound is an issue. Roots spinning out and choking the root mass is a concern for nursery plants. I definitely am light on experience, but my Bio degree at least taught me to be inquisitive. And plants that have been re-vegged, mothers for a couple of months and flowered off only have spinning at the bottom and they are not choking at all. Obviously not ideal, but also not a DWC. Most of these plants have a 90 day life span, worrying about a rootbound plant is silly. And the 1gal per foot is a good guide, but only a guide.

:leaf::peace::leaf:
Click to expand...


Your statement about a blue spruce or a citrus tree is not really valid. Trees like that are not grown to spend their lives in pots. They are grown to various sizes, different caliper sizes, and then sold to be planted in the ground where then space for roots is no longer an issue so saying decades is not valid since they will not live in pots for decades or a decade and likely not even half a decade.

Any type of plant or bush or tree has a 50/50 ratio between above ground growth and root growth. That is what is needed to sustain a healthy plant/bush/tree. When you limit the space for roots to grow you limit the plant/bush/tree’s ability to grow as well as it otherwise would.

Because pot plants are weeds and therefore very tough they can withstand abuse that other things would not take but that does not mean that when grow in less than optimal conditions the growth you get that impresses you is as much or as good of growth as you would get if grown in optimal conditions. Just because it impresses someone does not mean it is all it could have been or that the person would not have been more impressed if larger pots had been used.

Most anyone would admit that plants grown in a hydro or aero system grow faster and bigger and better. When the reasons for that are listed one reason that is seldom listed is roots are not tightly confined as in pots that are to small like so many people use. Now just going to larger pots does not mean someone will match hydro or aero growth but they will take a small step closer to it.

The ideal pot size for anything grown in a pot is where when the plant/bush/tree reaches its full size or the end of the period of time it will be in a pot before being planted in the ground the roots should have reached the entire pot without circling. Once circling begins the plant/bush/tree is under a degree of stress. The tighter the rootball becomes the more stress the plant/bush/tree is under.
 
Brick Top said:
Your statement about a blue spruce or a citrus tree is not really valid. Trees like that are not grown to spend their lives in pots. They are grown to various sizes, different caliper sizes, and then sold to be planted in the ground where then space for roots is no longer an issue so saying decades is not valid since they will not live in pots for decades or a decade and likely not even half a decade.

Any type of plant or bush or tree has a 50/50 ratio between above ground growth and root growth. That is what is needed to sustain a healthy plant/bush/tree. When you limit the space for roots to grow you limit the plant/bush/tree’s ability to grow as well as it otherwise would.

Because pot plants are weeds and therefore very tough they can withstand abuse that other things would not take but that does not mean that when grow in less than optimal conditions the growth you get that impresses you is as much or as good of growth as you would get if grown in optimal conditions. Just because it impresses someone does not mean it is all it could have been or that the person would not have been more impressed if larger pots had been used.

Most anyone would admit that plants grown in a hydro or aero system grow faster and bigger and better. When the reasons for that are listed one reason that is seldom listed is roots are not tightly confined as in pots that are to small like so many people use. Now just going to larger pots does not mean someone will match hydro or aero growth but they will take a small step closer to it.

The ideal pot size for anything grown in a pot is where when the plant/bush/tree reaches its full size or the end of the period of time it will be in a pot before being planted in the ground the roots should have reached the entire pot without circling. Once circling begins the plant/bush/tree is under a degree of stress. The tighter the rootball becomes the more stress the plant/bush/tree is under.
Click to expand...
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
this is very good information from brick top (again).
i am going with that theory.
rootbind does occur otherwise why would it be a growers concern????.
or even mentioned/dicussed.
LUDACRIS.
:-P
 
LUDACRIS said:
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
this is very good information from brick top (again).
i am going with that theory.
rootbind does occur otherwise why would it be a growers concern????.
or even mentioned/dicussed.
LUDACRIS.
:-P
Click to expand...


so even after you guys see my HUGE plants in little tiny pots, PROVING rootbound is NOT an issue, you're still gonna go with a bunch of nonsense. :clap:
just 'cause you fear it doesn't mean it's true. there is no monster in your closet. or is there?


i'm done here. :cool:
 
fdd2blk said:
so even after you guys see my HUGE plants in little tiny pots, PROVING rootbound is NOT an issue, you're still gonna go with a bunch of nonsense. :clap:
just 'cause you fear it doesn't mean it's true. there is no monster in your closet. or is there?


i'm done here. :cool:
Click to expand...

4-5 gallon pots are not "little tiny pots"
CRIS.
:?
 
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