requesting an exposition on curing

Hello, seems like there are as many methods for drying and curing as there are growers, seems reasonable enough... however, all i seem to be able to find are 'how-to's'... explaining the HOW to dry and cure.

I'm wondering if anybody knows (or can point me in the right direction) of WHY you cure. what is happening to the buds during curing? Is it just making sure that the buds dry out evenly, but not completely? or is there some other magical chemistry that turns live buds into super-pot through the process of the cure?

thanks in advance

well yes and no.

primary we cure simply to reduce moisture content in order to extend storability while reducing suceptability to molds and such.

secondary reasons for moisture reduction include making the smoke smoother (only works so far) to reduce chlorophyll content, again for smoother smoking.

and yes there are a million ways to cure, but they break down in these groups and subgroups as follows.

1. FAST DRY. this is any method taking less than 2 days to dry more than 1/2 oz
1.1 TYPES. food dehydraters, toaster ovens, microwaves, heat lamps, etc
1.2 PROS. you get your weed faster
1.3 CONS. harsher smoke, 5-15% less potent

2. SLOW CURE. this is any method taking more than 2 days to dry more than 1/4
2.1 TYPES. hanging, bagging, racking.
2.2 PROS. smoother smoke, better tasting, vaguely stronger.
2.3 CONS. takes a while, higher risk factors for mold mildew and detection.


and heres the slow mo

after a bud gets cut it can no longer uptake moisture and nutes, so it draws from the leaf and vegetative matter to continue bud growth
(calyx's hairs trich's all that good stuff). when done slowly in little to no light this can take several days, during which time the buds are burning through
as much of the various nute's as atmospheric moisture content allows.

or if dried very quickly its almost the same as nute burn, evaporating the moisture to rapidly leaves high content of mineral salt in the finished product as well as higher content of chlorophyll in its intact state. with lower final ratios of plant resins vs. plant matter.

now here is where the debate begins in my opinion. i find weed thats been fast dried, is often TOO dry, burns very fast, thus apearing to be stonier weed becuase a higher percentage of the weed is burning per ingestion. fast dry is ussualy marked by great looking buds that break up into powder instead of shreading.


ok thats good for a page one. after work ill write page two about some of the wierder cures ive heard of.

Supposedly there are psychoactive substances within the bud that go from being inactive to active during the curing process. Personally, I think this is more of a function of moisture content than time. IME, 2-4 weeks is plenty for a cure and as long as it's dry, i'll get into the stash after 10 days.

IMO, Mainly to get everything to dry evenly is correct, however the side effects are also a reason. As the moisture comes out of the middle and stems it helps to add smell and flavor to the buds. Also curing will help to remove the harshness is the smoke, making it a smoother more pleasurable smoke. Often it will increase the potency of the product also.

Curing affects the potency in the first week, makes all the THC psychoactive. Plus curing makes the bud uniformly dry so you can store it with no mold. Makes it smooth to smoke = ]

ok well i got a few more minutes so ill touch a few brief things

theres some weird fucking cures out there, W ierd.

first and not so wierd is soaking. usually done with low grade weed, or weed that was harvested too early.
you soak all the weed in cold cold cold water. like a cold tea it steaps out the chloroophylls and other soluble things,
but mostly leaves the thc/delta9/canibanoids alone. soaked weed's telltale is jet white ash.

then theres fermenting. where you hang the weed let it dry some, then keep it moist and let a certain type of mold grow, after a few days redry and compact
beleive it or not this method is still used in mexico, its said to increase potency (if you have the right strain of mold).
you know when u get that compressed mex shit that smells faintly musty ish 1/15 is from fermenting, the rest is improper storage and transport.

piss cure. well its about like it sounds, piss on it hang to dry. again still used in many countries, weve all smelled it at one time or another (sorry to have to tell u)
i dont know why they do it, other than just not liking americans

im not gonna even touch on any chemical treatments cuz i dont beleive in em. i dont think weed should ever be sprayed with anything other
than a light solution of smoking opium.

ok bout work time, later yall

TruenoAE86coupe said:

IMO, Mainly to get everything to dry evenly is correct, however the side effects are also a reason. As the moisture comes out of the middle and stems it helps to add smell and flavor to the buds. Also curing will help to remove the harshness is the smoke, making it a smoother more pleasurable smoke. Often it will increase the potency of the product also.

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I'm curious about the potency increase. Making the smoke smoother, slower-burning and tastier seems reasonable enough. However, I am curious if you, or anyone else, knows the mechanism by which curing can affect the potency. Obviously, if you do a shit job, the potency can be negatively effected... But i don't see how curing properly can increase it... unless you mean that by curing the bud properly, one can insure that as much potency as possible is preserved, or to put it another way kept from being lost.

thank you very much for your comments

homebrewer said:

Supposedly there are psychoactive substances within the bud that go from being inactive to active during the curing process. Personally, I think this is more of a function of moisture content than time. IME, 2-4 weeks is plenty for a cure and as long as it's dry, i'll get into the stash after 10 days.

Click to expand...

I think this is evidence of the cannabis paradox:
1. pot is made illegal
2. folks still love to smoke them some pot
3. growers/distributors/salespersons are forced underground
4. Due to the higher risks of staying in business (beyond normal "legit" business models) members of the industry seek out ways to maximize yield and potency
5. Amazing advances in botanical understanding and horticultural methods are acheived which would never have happened if the plant was as pedestrian as say, tomato plants.
6. Despite the incredible evolution of cannabis cultivation, it is still underground and therefore, we rely on uncertain information from uncertain sources.

I don't know if that really constitutes a paradox but, whatever.

Do you know if there's any reliable information on HOW the curing process transforms inactive --> active? Not how to do it, but how it functions?
thanks for the comments

ok well you talkin some pretty heady shit now.

what your asking for is a step by step breakdown of about 20 differant continuous chemical reactions amoung the many hundreds occuring.
youd need a molecular biologist specializing in pharmacological botany to get a decent answer.

ill try and give you a decent rundown on the overall situation. (mechanical engineer by the way)

theres something like 11 differant kinds of naturally occuring thc http://www.erowid.org/archive/rhodium/chemistry/thc/index.html (i cant remember the exact number) each with its own properties that vary in relation to one another

some strong w short duration, some weak with long duration, some with longer or shorter chemical half-lives at STP.
im just talking about thc here, not any of the other phycoactives found in mj, this one example works for all of em.

ok your bud will increase in potency its entire life, up to the point where free thc production is limited by nutes, water, co2, surface area, light, half-life.
when you clip your bud, it continues to increase in potency (generaly) untill all internal metabolic processes have stopped.
longer cure time gives longer metabolic processes.
now as to causes for strength differances from curing. if u check that link i left about half way down it mentions differances in the isomers only on the left ring.
when your plant is still "on-stem" it have somewhat its choice of mineral ratios to produce whatever kind of thc it wants to.
but once u clip the bud "off-stem" its resources become limited, once it goes through its prefered chemicals, it begins producing what it can with what it has left.

if i may offer an analogy.

imagine your bud is a foord car plant, automated robots programed to build only a few models over and over again.
but then one day no new parts arrive, but the robots are still building, but as they run out of the parts that fit the designs, they start using whats available.
so imagine this foord plant runs out of sedan engines for the sedan, but it did find some extra formula 1 race engines, and the bolt pattern fit (little chem metaphor)
so it makes those for awhile, then it runs out of some other parts, but it did find some parts from a jet plane, so it makes that for awhile.

i imagine u get the idea. to the average joe its too random for a good set of controlled tests.
but if a person had a nice mass spectrometer, and maybe a gasschromatograph (dont know how to spell that) but anyway, then with some liberal cloning for a nice subject base, youd need about 50-100 per controll and per test group. but then with carefull controll and monotoring one should be able to develop relative coralations between spacific thc types and individual nutrients.

i really hoped that helped.

if u really need something more technical holla back and ill post again in advanced jargonese

wow, much has gone over my head... I really regret majoring in psychology instead of a real science, never taken a chem class in my life and am chemistry-tarded to be honest. But, your analogy helped out a lot. thank you very much for your help. It looks like maybe i should try to find a high school chemistry book and just start from scratch. I sometimes get bummed out that we can only live for like 90 years and can only learn and do so much, i wish there was a way i could make my 20's last for 100 years.

Manicuring, Drying, And Curing Marijuana


Right after all the plants have been harvested, it is time to manicure them. Manicuring is simply cutting off the leaves that were growing from the buds. Cut off all the leaves surrounding the bud, so that just the bud remains.



Work over a glass table or some kind of smooth flat surface. This will make it easy to collect all the material that has been cut away from the buds. It is lower in THC than the buds, but rather than throw it away, you can use it to make hash oil.



When manicuring the buds, use a pair of scissors with small blades (to reach hard to get leaves) that is comfortable on your hands. If you have a small crop, you can handle the plants with you bare hands. With a large crop, wear powder free latex gloves.



The latex gloves will collect trichome resin in a similar manner to the way live marijuana plants are rubbed to make hashish. The latex gloves have to be powder free or the powder will get mixed into the resin.



Do not touch anything other than the plants once you have put the gloves on. If you have to do something, remove the gloves you are wearing and put them in a plastic bag, prior to doing whatever it is that has to be done.



When finished, put on a pair of new gloves. Material on the first pair can be collected later. When you are finished manicuring all the plants, remove the gloves and place them in a plastic bag (to catch resin that drops off).



Put the plastic bag with the gloves in a freezer for 2-3 hours. The trichome resin can easily be peeled from the frozen latex gloves and consumed the same way you would use hashish.



If absolutely necessary, you can wait to manicure the buds. However, the job will take more time if you wait. Manicuring right after the plants are harvested will also speed the drying process.



Instead smoking marijuana directly after it is harvested and manicured, it is best to dry and cure it. Some new growers might be in such a rush to try the marijuana that they don't want to dry the crop, or they might be tempted to put buds in a microwave oven to dry them out.

Drying Marijuana After Harvest

You probably don't want to smoke marijuana that is harsh and bad tasting. If you do not take time to dry the bud, you will not get the best possible smell and taste your crop is capable of producing.



Proper drying and curing will also ensure maximum potency of the marijuana you have grown. Marijuana is not potent just after harvest. Some of the THC is in a non-psychoactive acidic form. Drying marijuana the right way will convert the non-psychoactive acidic compounds into psychoactive THC.



The area where the drying is done should be dark. Light and high temperatures (higher than about 80 degrees) will cause THC to break down into less desirable chemicals, this will lower the potency of the finished product.



A good way to dry the crop is to hang the buds upside-down by the stem, from some string or wire. The drying marijuana must have some circulation blowing over it at all times. A gentle breeze that circulates over all the plants is necessary.



A fan or two will circulate air within the drying room. Fans will aid in drying the plants evenly, and reducing the chances of mold.



If mold starts and is allowed to grow, it might ruin all of your crop. Mold looks like white fuzz and has an odor that is unpleasant.
You will have to keep the temperature and humidity within a certain range for optimal results.



Conditions should remain constantly somewhere within the following ranges, temperature should be between 65-75 degrees F, relative humidity should be between 45%-55%.



At temperatures lower than 65 degrees, drying time will be lengthened. At temperatures higher than 75 degrees, the heat will cause the outer portion of the bud to dry quicker than the inner part, and the taste will suffer.



At humidity levels lower than 45%, the marijuana will dry too fast and the taste will suffer. At humidity levels higher than 55%, the marijuana will take a long time to dry, and it will be prone to mold.



Keep a hygrometer and a thermometer in the drying area, close to the plants. A hygrometer will allow you to keep an eye on the relative humidity level in the room and a thermometer will display the temperature. Some hygrometers have built in thermometers so you can measure the temperature and humidity together.



Depending on the time of year and your location, a heater or an air conditioner may be necessary to adjust the temperature. To control humidity, a dehumidifier can lower humidity and a humidifier can be used to raise humidity. There are warm mist humidifiers and cool mist humidifiers.



A warm mist humidifier will raise the temperature while a cool mist humidifier will not affect the temperature. There are also humidifiers that allow you to switch between warm or cool mist. If you are going to purchase a humidifier for this purpose, take your climate into consideration and buy an appropriate humidifier.



Warm mist models will actually heat the water and release warm humidity. Cool mist water isn't cooled, it just means that water is not heated. In most cases a cool mist will work best. To be safe you can get a humidifier that lets you switch between warm and cool mist.

Curing Marijuana

It will take at least a week or two to dry the crop with temperatures between 65-75 degrees F and relative humidity between 45%-55%. You will know when the marijuana is dry if the stems snap or break (rather than fold) when they are bent. Try smoking a small bud (1/2 gram or less) in a joint to be sure it is dry enough.



At this time, small buds will be dry enough to smoke. But larger buds should be cured (slow dried) to ensure that the marijuana is as potent and tasty as possible. If necessary, you can set aside buds that are less than 1/2 gram for smoking, while larger buds cure.



The cure lasts a week or two, longer would be even better for many strains. The aim of what you are doing is evenly finishing the slow dry process, so that mold will not grow when the buds are stored long term. Also, by the end of the cure, any remaining inactive THC will be converted to active THC (that increases potency).



To cure the crop, you will need one or more containers made out of glass or plastic. Some people say plastic can impart a taste to the marijuana. Personally, plastic containers that some types of roll your own tobacco are sold in, have no negative effect on the taste.



Containers that have a rubber seal work best, but any type of container with a tight fitting lid will do. One quart canning jars do a very good job if you are curing a few pounds or less. They have a rubber seal and hold 2 or more ounces of marijuana per one quart jar.



When curing quantities in excess of a few pounds, large (over 40 quarts) plastic storage boxes are recommended. They are not air tight, but will do the job when smaller air tight containers are not practical.



Gently place your marijuana in the containers (cut buds to size if the are too big to fit in the container) and put the top on. Store the containers in a dark area where the temperature is between 50-65 degrees and the humidity is between 40%-60%.


You will have to open the containers for a few minutes to allow moisture to escape by fanning with your hand. If any moisture builds up on the inside of the cap on your container, wipe it off. Do this preferably 2-6 times daily, at regular 4-12 hour intervals.


You should also re-arrange the buds by giving them a quarter-turn once a day. This will ensure that different parts of the buds are exposed to the air in the container. Keep up this routine for 7-10 days. When properly dried, marijuana will burn evenly when smoked in a joint (if stems are removed).



The taste will be as good as it can be, and the THC will have reached a point where it is ready to be ingested or stored. You can keep any marijuana that will be consumed within a few months (1 year maximum) in the same containers used for curing, without having to keep opening them to release moisture.



If the marijuana is to be stored for more than a few months, you can use a vacuum sealer (designed for storing food) to seal the marijuana in an airtight environment. If stored in a dark area that is between 40-55 degrees F, the marijuana in vacuum sealed plastic will remain potent for up to 5 years.



Dry marijuana can be stored in a frost-free freezer, but some of the THC on the outer part of the buds may be damaged when frozen. A refrigerator is in the right temperature range but they tend to be humid (unless you can control the humidity).



If stored in an area of high humidity for months or years, even vacuum sealed marijuana can eventually become as humid as the surrounding air. This will necessitate drying it again before smoking. But, unless mold develops, humidity itself will not degrade the THC or make the marijuana any less potent.



Light will degrade some of the THC, so dark containers can be used for storage. If you place the marijuana in a see through container, it will have to be located in a dark area that is not exposed to light or high temperatures.



Always make sure to properly dry your marijuana prior to storage, if you grow your own or if the stuff you have is very moist. And remember that to preserve marijuana potency at a maximum level, keep any exposure to air, heat, and light at a minimum.

Maybe this will help some since it explains the process from the beginning, from the creation of cannabinoids and why harvesting and curing are done at certain times depending on what someone wants from their final product.


Cannabinoid Biosynthesis
Since resin secretion and associated terpenoid and cannabinoid biosynthesis are at their peak just after the pistils have begun to turn brown but before the calyx stops growing, it seems obvious that floral clusters should be harvested during this time. More subtle variations in terpenoid and cannabinoid levels also take place within this period of maximum resin secretion, and these variations influence the nature of the resin’s psychoactive effect.
The cannabinoid ratios characteristic of a strain are primarily determined by genes, but it must be remembered that many environmental factors, such as light, temperature, and humidity, influence the path of a molecule along the cannabinoid biosynthetic pathway. These environmental factors can cause an atypical final cannabinoid profile (cannabinoid levels and ratios). Not all cannabinoid molecules begin their journey through the pathway at the same time, nor do all of them complete the cycle and turn into THC molecules simultaneously. There is no magical way to influence the cannabinoid biosynthesis to favor THC production, but certain factors involved in the growth and maturation of Cannabis do affect final cannabinoid levels, These factors may be controlled to some extent by proper selection of mature floral clusters for harvesting, agricul tural technique, and local environment. In addition to genetic and seasonal influences, the picture is further modified by the fact that each individual calyx goes through the cannabinoid cycle fairly independently and that during peak periods of resin secretion new flowers are produced every day and begin their own cycle. This means that at any given time the ratio of calyx-to-leaf, the average calyx condition, the condition of the resins, and resultant cannabinoid ratios indicate which stage the floral cluster has reached. Since it is difficult for the amateur cultivator to determine the cannabinoid profile of a floral cluster without chromatographic analysis, this discussion will center on the known and theoretical correlations between the external characteristics of calyx and resin and internal cannabinoid profile. A better understanding of these subtle changes in cannabinoid ratios may be gleaned by observing the cannabinoid biosynthesis. Focus on the lower left-hand corner of the chart. Next, follow the chain of reactions until you find the four isomers of THC acid (tetrahydro-cannabinolic acid), toward the right side of the page at the crest of the reaction sequence, and realize that there are several steps in a long series of reactions that precede and follow the formation of THC acids, the major psychoactive cannabinoids. Actually, THC acid and the other necessary cannabinoid acids are not psychoactive until they decarboxylate (lose an acidic carboxyl group [COOHI). It is the cannabinoid acids which move along the biosynthetic pathway, and these acids undergo the strategic reactions that determine the position of any particular cannabinoid molecule along the pathway. After the resins are secreted by the glandular trichome they begin to harden and the cannabinoid acids begin to decarboxylate. Any remaining cannabinoid acids are decarboxylated by heat within a few days after harvesting. Other THC acids with shorter side-chains also occur in certain strains of Cannabis. Several are known to be psychoactive and many more are suspected of psychoactivity. The shorter propyl (three-carb on) and methyl (one-carbon) side-chain homologs (similarly shaped molecules) are shorter acting than pen tyl (five-carbon) THCs and may account for some of the quick, flashy effects noted by some marijuana users. We will focus on the pentyl pathway but it should be noted that the propyl and methyl pathways have homologs at nearly every step along the pentyl pathway and their synthesis is basically identical.
The first step in the pentyl cannabinoid biosynthetic pathway is the combination of olivetolic acid with geranyl pyrophosphate. Both of these molecules are derived from terpenes, and it is readily apparent that the biosynthetic route of the aromatic terpenoids may be a clue to formation of the cannabinoids. The union of these two molecules forms CBG acid (cannabigerolic acid) which is the basic cannabinoid precursor molecule. CBG acid may be converted to CBGM (CBG acid monomethyl ether), or a hydroxyl group (OH) attaches to the geraniol portion of the molecule forming hydroxy-CBG acid. Through the formation of a transition-state molecule, either CBC acid (cannabichromenic acid) or CBD acid (cannabidiolic acid) is formed. CBD acid is the precursor to the THC acids, and, although CBD is only mildly psychoactive by itself, it may act with THC to modify the psychoactive effect of the THC in a sedative way. CBC is also mildly psychoactive and may interact synergistically with THC to alter the psychoactive effect (Turner et al. 1975). Indeed, CBD may suppress the effect of THC and CBC may potentiate the effect of THC, although this has not yet been proven. All of the reactions along the cannabinoid biosynthetic pathway are enzyme-controlled but are affected by environmental conditions.
Conversion of CBD acid to THC acid is the single most important reaction with respect to psychoactivity in the entire pathway and the one about which we know the most. Personal communication with Raphael Mechoulam has centered around the role of ultraviolet light in the bio-synthesis of THC acids and minor cannabinoids. In the laboratory, Mechoulam has converted CBD acid to THC acids by exposing a solution of CBD acid in n-hexane to ultraviolet light of 235-285 nm. for up to 48 hours. This reaction uses atmospheric oxygen molecules (02) and is irreversible; however, the yield of the conversion is only about 15% THC acid, and some of the products formed in the laboratory experiment do not occur in living specimens. Four types of isomers or slight variations of THC acids (THCA) exist. Both Delta1-THCA and Delta6-THCA are naturally occurring isomers of THCA resulting from the positions of the double bond on carbon 1 or carbon 6 of the geraniol portion of the molecule They have approximately the same psychoactive effect; however, Delta1-THC acid is about four times more prevalent than Delta6-THC acid in most strains. Also Alpha and Beta forms of Delta1-THC acid and Delta6-THC acid exist as a result of the juxtaposition of the hydrogen (H) and the carboxyl (COOH) groups on the olivetolic acid portion of the molecule It is suspected that the psychoactivity of the a and ~ forms of the THC acid molecules probably does not vary, but this has not been proven. Subtle differences in psychoactivity not detected in animals by laboratory instruments, but often discussed by marijuana aficionados, could be attributed to additional synergistic effects of the four isomers of THC acid. Total psycho-activity is attributed to the ratios of the primary cannabinoids of CBC, CBD, THC and CBN; the ratios of methyl, propyl, and pentyl homologs of these cannabinoids; and the isomeric variations of each of these cannabinoids. Myriad subtle combinations are sure to exist. Also, terpenoid and other aromatic compounds might suppress or potentiate the effects of THCs.
Environmental conditions influence cannabinoid biosynthesis by modifying enzymatic systems and the resultant potency of Cannabis. High altitude environments are often more arid and exposed to more intense sunlight than lower environments. Recent studies by Mobarak et al. (197 of Cannabis grown in Afghanistan at 1,300 meters (4,350 feet) elevation show that significantly more propyl cannabinoids are formed than the respective pentyl homo-logs. Other strains from this area of Asia have also exhibited the presence of propyl cannabinoids, but it cannot be discounted that altitude might influence which path of cannabinoid biosynthesis is favored. Aridity favors resin production and total cannabinoid production; however, it is unknown whether arid conditions promote THC production specifically. It is suspected that increased ultraviolet radiation might affect cannabinoid production directly. Ultra-violet light participates in the biosynthesis of THC acids from CBD acids, the conversion of CBC acids to CCY acids, and the conversion of CBD acids to CBS acids. However, it is unknown whether increased ultraviolet light might shift cannabinoid synthesis from pentyl to propyl pathways or influence the production of THC acid or CBC acid instead of CBD acid.
The ratio of THC to CBD has been used in chemotype determination by Small and others. The genetically determined inability of certain strains to convert CBD acid to THC acid makes them a member of a fiber chemotype, but if a strain has the genetically determined ability to convert CBD acid to THC acid then it is considered a drug strain. It is also interesting to note that Turner and Hadley (1973) discovered an African strain with a very high THC level and no CBD although there are fair amounts of CBC acid present in the strain. Turner* states that he has seen several strains totally devoid of CBD, but he has never seen a strain totally devoid of THC. Also, many early authors confused CBC with CBD in analyzed samples because of the proximity of their peaks on gas liquid chromatograph (GLC) results. If the biosynthetic pathway needs alteration to include an enzymatically controlled system involving the direct conversion of hydroxy-CBG acid to THC acid through allylic rearrangement of hydroxy-CBG acid and cyclization of the rearranged intermediate to THC acid, as Turner and Hadley (1973) suggest, then CBD acid would be bypassed in the cycle and its absence explained. Another possibility is that, since CBC acid is formed from the same symmetric intermediate that is allylically rearranged before forming CBD acid, CBC acid may be the accumulated intermediate, the reaction may be reversed, and through the symmetric intermediate and the usual allylic rearrangement CBD acid would be formed but directly converted to THC acid by a similar enzyme system to that which reversed the formation of CBC acid. If this happened fast enough no CBD acid would be detected. It is more likely, however, that CBDA in drug strains is converted directly to THCA as soon as it is formed and no CBD builds up. Also Turner, Hemphill, and Mahlberg (197 found that CBC acid was contained in the tissues of Cannabis but not in the resin secreted by the glandular trichomes. In any event, these possible deviations from the accepted biosynthetic pathway provide food for thought when trying to decipher the mysteries of Cannabis strains and varieties of psychoactive effect.
Returning to the more orthodox version of the cannabinoid biosynthesis, the role of ultraviolet light should be reemphasized. It seems apparent that ultraviolet light, normally supplied in abundance by sunlight, takes part in the conversion of CBD acid to THC acids. Therefore, the lack *Carlton Thrner 1979: personal communication. of ultraviolet light in indoor growing situations could account for the limited psychoactivity of Cannabis grown under artificial lights. Light energy has been collected and utilized by the plant in a long series of reactions resulting in the formation of THC acids. Farther along the pathway begins the formation of degradation products not metabolically produced by the living plant. These cannabinoid acids are formed through the progressive degradation of THC acids to CBN acid (cannabinolic acid) and other cannabinoid acids. The degradation is accomplished primarily by heat and light and is not enzymatically controlled by the plant. CBN is also suspected of synergistic modification of the psychoactivity of the primary cannabinoids, THCs. The cannabinoid balance between CBC, CBD, THC, and CBN is determined by genetics and maturation. THC production is an ongoing process as long as the glandular trichome remains active. Variations in the level of THC in the same trichome as it matures are the result of THC acid being broken down to CBN acid while CBD acid is being converted to THC acid. If the rate of THC biosynthesis exceeds the rate of THC breakdown, the THC level in the trichome rises; if the breakdown rate is faster than the rate of biosynthesis, the THC level drops. Clear or slightly amber transparent resin is a sign that the glandular trichome is still active. As soon as resin secretion begins to slow, the resins will usually polymerize and harden. During the late floral stages the resin tends to darken to a transparent amber color. If it begins to deteriorate, it first turns translucent and then opaque brown or white. Near-freezing temperatures during maturation will often result in opaque white resins. During active secretion, THC acids are constantly being formed from CBD acid and breaking down into CBN acid.
Harvest Timing
With this dynamic picture of the biosynthesis and degradation of THC acids as a frame of reference, the logic behind harvesting at a specific time is easier to understand. The usual aim of timing the moment of harvest is to ensure high THC levels modified by just the proper amounts of CBC, CBD and CBN, along with their propyl homologs, to approximate the desired psychoactive effect. Since THC acids are being broken down into CBN acid at the same time they are being made from CBD acid, it is important to harvest at a time when the production of THC acids is higher than the degradation of THC acids. Every experienced cultivator inspects a number of indicating factors and knows when to harvest the desired type of floral clus ters. Some like to harvest early when most of the pistils are still viable and at the height of reproductive potential. At this time the resins are very aromatic and light; the psychoactive effect is characterized as a light cerebral high (possibly low CBC and CBD, high THC, low CBN). Others harvest as late as possible, desiring a stronger, more resinous marijuana characterized by a more intense body effect and an inhibited cerebral effect (high CBC and CB]), high THC, high CBN). Harvesting and testing several floral clusters every few days over a period of several weeks gives the cultivator a set of samples at all stages of maturation and creates a basis for deciding when to harvest in future seasons. The following is a description of each of the growth phases as to morphology, terpene aroma, and relative psychoactivity.

The dry and cure converts the TCHC to THC I believe it is

Lt. Fydor said:

Do you know if there's any reliable information on HOW the curing process transforms inactive --> active? Not how to do it, but how it functions?
thanks for the comments

Click to expand...

I know absolutely no science behind this other than trial and error. Smoke fresh buds and they tend to be a touch harsh and lack that potency punch. Wait a couple weeks for your herb to fully dry and the smoke is smoother and noticeably more potent. Like I said, I believe this to be more of a function of moisture content than time but again, I know no science behind it.

U SEE.

now right there is a mf answer.

gotta give it to Brick Top.
dont forget to prop him, i know im about to.

Good read Bricktop, gotta say I got a little lost in the block of text though

Brick Top, Thank you very much, that is precisely what I was looking for.

I was planning on just uprooting the girls when it was time to dry, and dry the whole plant... because in MI we can have 2.5 ounces of USABLE medicine... and if it has roots then it's considered a plant and not usable. But it looks like i can harvest the bud as the mature, not necessarily all at once. how do you guys do it? all at once? staggered over a week?