Recycled Organic Living Soil (ROLS) and No Till Thread

ShLUbY

ShLUbY

Well-Known Member
greasemonkeymann said:
the reason I mention that is because out of ALL the nutrients, a soil that is too dense will effect potassium the most.
so you can have it there, but if the soil is too moist or anaerobic the potassium won't be used
not to mention the acidity as well
organic soils, because of the added water retention can create these problems moreso than the chem-guys, so a lot of growers haven't seen it
Click to expand...
well now that you mention that..... i think topdressing the potassium is going to the bee's knees and best bet for proper flowering nutrition :)

the run of cheese i have finishing up right now def had too much compost and i had lost some of my pumice due to either compaction or mixing the soil in the tumbler broke down some of it....

How much compost do you typically amend after a single run??? @greasemonkeymann surely you don't put 33% back in???? it seemed like that was too much when i got the soil mixed back up and moistened properly again.

i will be doing the jar test from now on before adding compost to make sure i dont add too much cause it seems like the roots break down and make some organic matter during the rest and amending process.
 
Last edited:
greasemonkeymann

greasemonkeymann

Well-Known Member
ShLUbY said:
well now that you mention that..... i think topdressing the potassium is going to the bee's knees and best bet for proper flowering nutrition :)

the run of cheese i have finishing up right now def had too much compost and i had lost some of my pumice due to either compaction or mixing the soil in the tumbler broke down some of it....

How much compost do you typically amend after a single run??? @greasemonkeymann surely you don't put 33% back in???? it seemed like that was too much when i got the soil mixed back up and moistened properly again.

i will be doing the jar test from now on before adding compost to make sure i dont add too much cause it seems like the roots break down and make some organic matter during the rest and amending process.
Click to expand...
oh no, I don't re-amend to that degree at all, after the two runs, (hybrid no-till) I re-amend, and it's not something I measure out really, but i'd say I put maybe a good 10-15% back in? (probably 10% compost and 5% castings)
all depends on which container I have and such, also outside grows tend to deplete the humus/compost more (speaking of, WHERE does that go??)
anyways, bigger plants tend to "consume" the compost, so those containers need more of a re-amend rate
but I eye-ball it, I just picture the approx. "look" of the mix from before and match it to the aeration%, but it's all by eye.
Sorry I couldn't be more specific, but I think you follow me, ya?
just picture how a "normal" mix looks after it's done and then match it with however much compost you need.

But conversely a small container, like the iddy-biddy 1 gallons that I do my pheno-hunts in, those need almost a 33% replenishment, but those are fairly rootbound too

I guess the main point I was trying to make is that in a humus heavy mix you can NEVER have too much aeration, but you can suffer a lot of maladies (that are hard to diagnose BTW) with a too dense media
 
ShLUbY

ShLUbY

Well-Known Member
greasemonkeymann said:
oh no, I don't re-amend to that degree at all, after the two runs, (hybrid no-till) I re-amend, and it's not something I measure out really, but i'd say I put maybe a good 10-15% back in? (probably 10% compost and 5% castings)
all depends on which container I have and such, also outside grows tend to deplete the humus/compost more (speaking of, WHERE does that go??)
anyways, bigger plants tend to "consume" the compost, so those containers need more of a re-amend rate
but I eye-ball it, I just picture the approx. "look" of the mix from before and match it to the aeration%, but it's all by eye.
Sorry I couldn't be more specific, but I think you follow me, ya?
just picture how a "normal" mix looks after it's done and then match it with however much compost you need.

But conversely a small container, like the iddy-biddy 1 gallons that I do my pheno-hunts in, those need almost a 33% replenishment, but those are fairly rootbound too

I guess the main point I was trying to make is that in a humus heavy mix you can NEVER have too much aeration, but you can suffer a lot of maladies (that are hard to diagnose BTW) with a too dense media
Click to expand...
yeah i made the mistake of putting in too much compost in my current run of cheese about to come down. just heavy pots and had a very slow start to flower. i could tell that something was wrong by the way they were growing.
so i'll start adding much less into the mix after use. this makes a lot of sense bongsmilie So you do 2 runs with a container.... your 5 gallons? and do you just cut out the big stemm and plant back in??? do tell.... also did you see the Jar Test thread i put up a lil bit ago?? its a good way to see what your base mix is looking like to take some of the guess work out. i didnt think to use it until it was too late and the damage was done and then i remember about it.

your compost is being totally broken down by the microbes into plant available nutrients, and carbon to build their own bodily structures. i think plants pull some carbon from the soil, but most all of it comes from the air....

and outside, if you don't use containers, you have leaching into the soil with organic materials. once they're broken down so far they're small enough to leach into the soil and then be completely consumed..... or maybe indoors we can never compare to the number of microbes that are outdoors???
 
N

NWHeadies

Active Member
Does anyone re amend gypsum powder into there soil or feed it to there worm bins? My original soils did not have it and the size of my tent does not allow me to do no till until i can afford a bigger tent in the future. Anyways so i will be doing the same practices and recycling and reamending my soil for now. Any ideas on how much gypsum powder to reamend with in between runs and if its safe as a top dressing and water in kind of thing too? Supposed to help with the terps and not burn anything is what i read but i like to be extra careful.

Also any worm guys can i feed my worms straight alfalfa meal into my worm bin or will it become too hot and cause them harm even if i put it on one side of the pot and cover it or just do a little at a time? Also can i feed them pre mixed recycled soil as some of there grit since i ran out of pumice.
 
ShLUbY

ShLUbY

Well-Known Member
NWHeadies said:
Does anyone re amend gypsum powder into there soil or feed it to there worm bins? My original soils did not have it and the size of my tent does not allow me to do no till until i can afford a bigger tent in the future. Anyways so i will be doing the same practices and recycling and reamending my soil for now. Any ideas on how much gypsum powder to reamend with in between runs and if its safe as a top dressing and water in kind of thing too? Supposed to help with the terps and not burn anything is what i read but i like to be extra careful.
Click to expand...
i have granular gypsum and i generally amend 1/2cup/cuft of soil after each grow. being that you have powder gypsum, it would break down faster so i think you'd have no worries amending at that rate after each grow as long as you're roots are maxing out your container each run. also you can topdress amendments like that if you didn't get to put them in your mix. a tablespoon or two worked into the top of the soil will definitely do the trick

gypsum is calcium sulfate so you never would get burn from this product as it contains no NPK. and yes folks put it in their worm bins as well. a little goes a long way in the bins.
 
Fozze

Fozze

Well-Known Member
NWHeadies said:
Does anyone re amend gypsum powder into there soil or feed it to there worm bins? My original soils did not have it and the size of my tent does not allow me to do no till until i can afford a bigger tent in the future. Anyways so i will be doing the same practices and recycling and reamending my soil for now. Any ideas on how much gypsum powder to reamend with in between runs and if its safe as a top dressing and water in kind of thing too? Supposed to help with the terps and not burn anything is what i read but i like to be extra careful.

Also any worm guys can i feed my worms straight alfalfa meal into my worm bin or will it become too hot and cause them harm even if i put it on one side of the pot and cover it or just do a little at a time? Also can i feed them pre mixed recycled soil as some of there grit since i ran out of pumice.
Click to expand...
SchLUby's got you right on the gypsum. I add it at the same rate, though these days I eyeball the soil and guess at how many cups of different things I need to add.

You can feed worms alfalfa for sure. Youre right to have some concern because the N levels can cause a bin or pile to get hot if used in large quantities. But yeah, worms like the shit out of it!
 
N

NWHeadies

Active Member
Thanks for the answers the aloe yarrow and stinging nettle seedlings are growing still waiting on the comfrey root so show up. My worm bin is all set up i just have to wait for proper weather for them to ship and stay alive. Cant wait for that home made black gold in six months or so.
 
elkamino

elkamino

Well-Known Member
DonBrennon

DonBrennon

Well-Known Member
Kids are brought up in such a sanitised environment these days, it's no wonder they're all fucked up(immunity wise, if nothing else). Nothing better for kids than playing in the dirt and taking a few hard knocks, also, Antibiotics should only be for serious infections, or prevention of in special circumstances, not dished out like sweeties.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top