RDWC Nutrient Schedule Feedback

Discussion in 'Hydroponics / Aeroponics' started by ryikk, Oct 20, 2018.

  1.  
    ryikk

    ryikk New Member

    So I have done a bunch of looking around and put together a possible feeding schedule. I would appreciate feedback. This is a RDWC setup using RO/DI water.
     

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  2.  
    ryikk

    ryikk New Member

    The one labeled GH3 is the General Hydroponics FloraGrow FloraMicro FloraBloom set
     
  3.  
    5BY5LEC

    5BY5LEC Well-Known Member

    How many grows have you got under your belt in RDWC?
    GH Trio is a good nutrient line.
     
  4.  
    ryikk

    ryikk New Member

    This is my first grow. Just did a shit ton of research to come up with this schedule.
     
  5.  
    5BY5LEC

    5BY5LEC Well-Known Member

    K. You might not like hearing this but ditch all the add-ons for now. They are just going to complicate things.
    Use your Silica, Calmag, Micro, Grow, and Bloom. These are all you need for Dispensary quality results.
    Pick either Orca OR H202 to run and stick with it. Do not use both. I use Hydroguard and I splash Orca in there every now and then.
    Either one, hit it hard the first week like a double dose. If your water stays clear after week go to maintenance doses.
    Good Luck
     
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  6.  
    Major Blazer

    Major Blazer Well-Known Member

    More bad news, you are never going to be able to map out a feed schedule until you've learned your plants - in other words, keeping a mother, taking cuttings, and running the same exact plant at least a couple of times. I agree with @5BY5LEC to an extent, but I'd even suggest trying to keep it simpler. For instance, I run maxi bloom only for nutrients, silica, and cal-mag (as needed, very low) - not saying tp do exactly that, but it serves as an example of keeping it simple. FWIW, I used to go ham with additives too and you'll probably end up hurting the grow more than helping it like I did, until you have your shit really dialed in. Most of the feed schedules on bottles assume you're running high wattage sodium style lighting, and maybe you are, but even still, you basically have to wing it. Start real low on the food and keep a steady eye on your EC and pH. If you see your EC going down, they can handle more nutrient. If you see your EC going up, the mixture is probably too hot. This is assuming stability in your pH, which I'm sure you'll also be battling with.

    They say a picture is worth a thousand words - this is my current grow at day 35 of flower, maxi bloom only, and she is really starting to dense up now, grown under two qb 288 v2 leds in a 3'x3' tent, EC around 1.8~2
     

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  7.  
    ryikk

    ryikk New Member

    I’m running 2 x 600W LED in a 4x4 grow tent. I’m using RO/DI water. The system is running with 35g of water with 4 containers.
     

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    5BY5LEC

    5BY5LEC Well-Known Member

    Great point about learning the plants. I did not even touch on that.
    Nice system by the way. I like how you put unions in there so you can take it apart. My next design will have those.
    Once you have those going that tent is going to be a jungle.
     
  9.  
    ryikk

    ryikk New Member

    Thanks. Yeah I already had to put them to use. One of the holes I drilled was not clean and it leaked when I water tested it. It was at that moment I was soooo glad I did that. I broke out the left side, replaced the container and popped it back into place and away I went. Those unions I have throughout have been a life saver for maint.

    That being said I am looking forward to what this setup will do. I’ll be scrogging it as well.

    I do appreciate all the feedback from everyone, learning is what it’s all about.

    Attached are my mothers in another tent. The more I cut them back the more they grow
     

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    NeWcS

    NeWcS Well-Known Member

    Very nice baseline nutrient schedule. Like @5BY5LEC said, use a base, calmg and Si. For a few res changes. Than slowly adding stuff. But if you've grown before and are fimiliar with all those products, go for it.
     
  11.  
    smokebros

    smokebros Well-Known Member

    This has been the best response so far. I like that you're planning things out in such detail, but that's a lot of add-on's to keep track of. I second the suggestion on bennies vs h202 - and just picking one and sticking with it.. as using both will essentially cancel each other out as H202 will kill the beneficials in the orca.

    VEG
    Grow (1/2 dose)
    Calmag (1/2 dose)
    Silica (full dose)
    Bennies or h202

    BLOOM
    Bloom (1/2 dose)
    Calmag (1/2 dose)
    Silica (full dose - cut out at week 6 or 7)
    Bennies or h202 - run all the way through


    I'd suggest trying to find a comfortable final range of 500PPM-700PPM in your water. Of course you'll want to keep the PH between 5.8-6.2, and do res changes 1x per week or every other week.

    Good Luck!
     
  12.  
    5BY5LEC

    5BY5LEC Well-Known Member

    600 was my sweet spot, but as you know other people's mileage may vary. 100-150ppm of that being calmag
     
  13.  
    shawnery

    shawnery Well-Known Member

    I'll never understand the reason for so many res changes that is unless you have an issue. I say once a month is more than fine as long as all os good. I know of many people that never swap until flower and then flush at the end. Not to mention the added cost of using DI/RO that often dependent on you system size.

    I agree, drop all the bullshit and stick with the basics, especially for your first grow.
     
  14.  
    Billy Liar

    Billy Liar Well-Known Member

    It's because not all nutrient elements are removed from the solution at equal rates, so by the end of the week some elements will be completely depleted (N,P,K,Mn) and some will be accumulating (Ca, B etc). So fresh solution will bring things back to some kind of levels for a week of decent nutrition.

    To run a system with no nutrient solution changes is what's known as a "mass balance" approach, where the nutrient elements are either in the plant or the nutrient solution in the proper amounts.

    Peace
    BL
     
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  15.  
    shawnery

    shawnery Well-Known Member

    I get the reason I guess I just haven't seen the evidence to backup that it's any better. I spent a week searching the internet just for these experiences. Every person who went from weekly changes to monthy or even when switching to flower showed no negative side effects fron the elongated practice.
     
  16.  
    Keesje

    Keesje Well-Known Member

    I think it also has to do with how big your rez is.
    When it is small, you should change it now and then. Otherwise exactly that will happen as what Billy Liar wrote.
    Why take the risk?

    What people who change their reservoir should notice is that they have to be careful that the roots do not get a 'shock'.
    So make sure the temperature of the new rez is about the same as the old one.
    Also make sure that the EC is about the same.
     
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