Quick question on my upcoming RDWC build.

JSB99 said:

Yeah, if you don't remove the heat from the room, it won't do a thing. You'd have to either have the fridge in another room, or build an insulated box around the fridge, with an inline fan to duct the heat somewhere else.

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Thats the thing, the fridge was outside the grow room with the grow room being exhausted and the lights were air cooled. I really only needed the chiller during July and August when my temps would hit mid 80's. My water temps would hit high 70's with 75 being the danger zone when I would get the clear snot like pythium on my roots. Bottom line the mini fridge wouldnt cut it...

Really it's just worth it to purchase a chiller man. $250 1/10hp active aqua and you're done .

JSB99 said:

Look right below and you'll see my signature box. I have the link directly under the cola pics. It's named "My RDWC/UC Grow Room".

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Okay man I’ve read through that whole forum post, I feel like I had a pretty good grip on things but it always seems like once I have one thing answered I have two more questions.

In order to remain equal water level all the totes need to be level? I read on there that some one was using shower drains and had his epicenter/res below his tent or something similar. Now I know that your epicenter is outside of the tent and then you have a separate res in another room to fill your system. Is that a necessary element? I planned on buying an RO system for my house and don’t have a problem lugging some jugs over when I need to.

My next question is bulkheads or uniseals and why? Checked my locals HD today and they had up to 4” pvc but the biggest size bulk head was a 1”. Since I’m going to have to order those online I may as well be getting the better of the two.

As far as ventilation goes you have two separate inline fans if I saw right, your intake comes from another room but your exhaust stays in the room? Or was I just looking at it wrong?

What kind of cob lights do you think is best? I was tossing around the idea of getting 8 veros but I don’t know if that will be over kill.

What tools do you use for PH and your PPM values? I used to use the cheap ones from amazon but I don’t think that they work too well.

As far as the chiller goes I’m going to do a little more research. The fridge I have was sold with my house so if it stops running there is no sweat off my back. If water is contained with no leaks I don’t see how it could be a fire hazard. The one that I got practically freezes whatever I put in it now. I could get another pump like a previous dude suggested that runs even 20 or 30 gallons an hour. Have that circulate with just my epicenter. Im going to try and find another $250 in the budget to get the chiller, I was trying to find a way to cool water with what I had laying around. I know I’m going to need it with the warm summers. Soil in my environment just sounds like a recipe for bugs and other stuff.


Thanks for all the replies guys it’s really been a huge help. I hope my questions are not to rudimentary.

I had no issues with Uniseals. Everyone will say bulkheadsmtho. 2” pic is fine.

redi jedi said:

This is rdwc I was trying to cool under 2k hps
View attachment 4150834

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I would start by adding reflective insulation on everything that isn't supposed to get heated up by the lights....

redi jedi said:

This is rdwc I was trying to cool under 2k hps
View attachment 4150834

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Well it looks like your house didn't catch fire in those 2 months, sweet! I've though about using a water cooler chiller and chilling the water in a certain segment of the pipeline effectively shaving a few degrees here and there... Also controlling the compressor with a timer to avoid too much heat coming from it.

Of course if i ever do that, it'd be for experimental micro grows pretty much.

eyderbuddy said:

Well it looks like your house didn't catch fire in those 2 months, sweet! I've though about using a water cooler chiller and chilling the water in a certain segment of the pipeline effectively shaving a few degrees here and there... Also controlling the compressor with a timer to avoid too much heat coming from it.

Of course if i ever do that, it'd be for experimental micro grows pretty much.

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Right like 2 plants under a 600 W Led.

Timber just released there 600w quantum board fixture. Ready to hang.

I’d post a link but I’m short one like. Never seen those minimum requirements for posting pictures before.

TIMtoKILL said:

In order to remain equal water level all the totes need to be level?

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For the most part, yes. However, if you are trying to increase your water content (something that really helps stabilize a RDWC), and you had a taller container than the grow containers, you could elevate the grow containers the make the tops of all of them the same. The reservoir would act like a deep well.

TIMtoKILL said:

I read on there that some one was using shower drains and had his epicenter/res below his tent or something similar. Now I know that your epicenter is outside of the tent and then you have a separate res in another room to fill your system. Is that a necessary element? I planned on buying an RO system for my house and don’t have a problem lugging some jugs over when I need to.

Click to expand...

By "epicenter", I assume you're referring to the "controller", or "reservoir". You should use that terminology instead.

The location of the controller reservoir is personal preference, but there are several advantages to having it outside of the grow area (in my case, the tent).

• You don't have to go inside the tent in order to maintain the water in the RDWC
• It helps keep water temps down because the reservoir isn't in the same location as the light, which produces a ton of heat
• Your reservoir size isn't restricted by the amount of space where your plant containers are, allowing for both larger grow containers and reservoir, which adds up to more water in your RDWC, making it more easily maintainable

The second reservoir was something I had planned on using to bubble out the chlorine in the water, and having it ready to fill the system instead of using water directly from the tap. But I discovered that this wasn't necessary, as my tap is only 70ppm, and drops to 50ppm after a day. You don't always need RO. I think the recommended tds threshold is around 110ppm

And, you say you don't mind lugging jugs around, but believe me, you will. You would be better off using plumbing to bring water to your RDWC rather than carrying it...unless you're looking to get buffed up LOL!

TIMtoKILL said:

My next question is bulkheads or uniseals and why? Checked my locals HD today and they had up to 4” pvc but the biggest size bulk head was a 1”. Since I’m going to have to order those online I may as well be getting the better of the two.

Click to expand...

It'll take far too long to explain why, but use 2" pvc from HD, and order your bulkheads from Amazon. Uniseals are tricky, so keep it simple with bulkheads.

TIMtoKILL said:

As far as ventilation goes you have two separate inline fans if I saw right, your intake comes from another room but your exhaust stays in the room? Or was I just looking at it wrong?

Click to expand...

I have a 6" fan for my hood, which draws the cool air from under the house (ducting on left side of tent), and exhausts into the attic (right side of tent).

I also have a 4" fan with a carbon filter, that draws the room air via the micro-vents at the bottom of the tent, and exhausts it back into the room by drawing the air at the top of the tent.

Finally, I have a second 4" fan that draws air from hallway via the vent at the bottom of the closet, and exhausts it into the room at the top of the closet. I also use the room's central AC vent to help in the warmer months.

TIMtoKILL said:

What kind of cob lights do you think is best? I was tossing around the idea of getting 8 veros but I don’t know if that will be over kill.

Click to expand...

You'll have to do some research and decide for yourself. There are a few major types of lights (T5 florescent, HPS, DE, and LED), and each will determine how you will need to set up your air circulation.

TIMtoKILL said:

What tools do you use for PH and your PPM values? I used to use the cheap ones from amazon but I don’t think that they work too well.

Click to expand...

For the time being, the cheapo ones will work just fine. Just be sure to calibrate your pH meter every week or two. I keep the heads of my meters soaking in a glass of pure water or calibration solution, to keep them clean when not being used.

TIMtoKILL said:

As far as the chiller goes I’m going to do a little more research. The fridge I have was sold with my house so if it stops running there is no sweat off my back. If water is contained with no leaks I don’t see how it could be a fire hazard. The one that I got practically freezes whatever I put in it now. I could get another pump like a previous dude suggested that runs even 20 or 30 gallons an hour. Have that circulate with just my epicenter. Im going to try and find another $250 in the budget to get the chiller, I was trying to find a way to cool water with what I had laying around. I know I’m going to need it with the warm summers. Soil in my environment just sounds like a recipe for bugs and other stuff.

Click to expand...

When it comes down to it, no matter what you try to rig up, a chiller is the right tool for the job. But there is a way cheaper solution, which is to just grow in soil/coco coir, during the warm months.

I always refer people here to learn a ton about growing and equipment:
https://www.growweedeasy.com/

JSB99 said:

For the most part, yes. However, if you are trying to increase your water content (something that really helps stabilize a RDWC), and you had a taller container than the grow containers, you could elevate the grow containers the make the tops of all of them the same. The reservoir would act like a deep well.


By "epicenter", I assume you're referring to the "controller", or "reservoir". You should use that terminology instead.

The location of the controller reservoir is personal preference, but there are several advantages to having it outside of the grow area (in my case, the tent).

• You don't have to go inside the tent in order to maintain the water in the RDWC
• It helps keep water temps down because the reservoir isn't in the same location as the light, which produces a ton of heat
• Your reservoir size isn't restricted by the amount of space where your plant containers are, allowing for both larger grow containers and reservoir, which adds up to more water in your RDWC, making it more easily maintainable

The second reservoir was something I had planned on using to bubble out the chlorine in the water, and having it ready to fill the system instead of using water directly from the tap. But I discovered that this wasn't necessary, as my tap is only 70ppm, and drops to 50ppm after a day. You don't always need RO. I think the recommended tds threshold is around 110ppm

And, you say you don't mind lugging jugs around, but believe me, you will. You would be better off using plumbing to bring water to your RDWC rather than carrying it...unless you're looking to get buffed up LOL!


It'll take far too long to explain why, but use 2" pvc from HD, and order your bulkheads from Amazon. Uniseals are tricky, so keep it simple with bulkheads.


I have a 6" fan for my hood, which draws the cool air from under the house (ducting on left side of tent), and exhausts into the attic (right side of tent).

I also have a 4" fan with a carbon filter, that draws the room air via the micro-vents at the bottom of the tent, and exhausts it back into the room by drawing the air at the top of the tent.

Finally, I have a second 4" fan that draws air from hallway via the vent at the bottom of the closet, and exhausts it into the room at the top of the closet. I also use the room's central AC vent to help in the warmer months.


You'll have to do some research and decide for yourself. There are a few major types of lights (T5 florescent, HPS, DE, and LED), and each will determine how you will need to set up your air circulation.


For the time being, the cheapo ones will work just fine. Just be sure to calibrate your pH meter every week or two. I keep the heads of my meters soaking in a glass of pure water or calibration solution, to keep them clean when not being used.


When it comes down to it, no matter what you try to rig up, a chiller is the right tool for the job. But there is a way cheaper solution, which is to just grow in soil/coco coir, during the warm months.

I always refer people here to learn a ton about growing and equipment:
https://www.growweedeasy.com/

Click to expand...

So much blue

I haven’t had issues with using copper tubing in my chiller circuits but I haven’t check copper levels either, I need to do that . I also used a coopernickle exchanger this time so that should negate any leaching. You could try the fridge thing if it’s a throw away as you have nothing to lose except time but I would keep my eye open for a used salt water aquarium chiller. I built mine but it’s not really a DIY thing

Growweedeasy is the best, for awhile they had a google+ forum that I was part of. Had to take a break from growing and when I came back there wasn’t a group.

Could you post a pic of your manifold, JSB? You have updated a few times in your thread. Do you notice a difference in your plants that are farther away from your pump comparatively to the ones that are closer?

Budley Doright said:

I haven’t had issues with using copper tubing in my chiller circuits but I haven’t check copper levels either, I need to do that . I also used a coopernickle exchanger this time so that should negate any leaching. You could try the fridge thing if it’s a throw away as you have nothing to lose except time but I would keep my eye open for a used salt water aquarium chiller. I built mine but it’s not really a DIY thing View attachment 4151404View attachment 4151405

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I’m going to try it at least. My grow is going to be super micro. After remeasuring my room I figured out I’m either going to have everything inside a 4x4 tent or I downsize to a 4x3 and use that just for growing.


I’m thinking about cutting the bottom of the tent out to make holes for the bottom of my buckets. It would give me the ability to have all my buckets outside of the tent. I could even put a fan on them. It could give me more vertical space as well. I could rig up a little stand and keep everything level. Even the 27 gallon tough totes from Home Depot are 12” high.

Timber just released there 600w quantum boards do you think that will be too much light for a 4x3 space?
Thanks for all the replies I hope that some of those people out there that don’t want to post find this as helpful as I am.

I used 1" bulkhead fittings, several per tub. To keep water levels even between the tubsites, the tubs should all dump into the same manifold.

Fuck the Undercurrent. Their 'epicenter' is setup backwards.

Waterfalls belong in the tubsites. Be sure they agitate the surface.

Pump should be sized at 100-150gph per tubsite. Bigger isn't better!

If your waterfalls are designed properly, you will not get snot and no chiller is needed.

But WTF do I know?

ttystikk said:

I used 1" bulkhead fittings, several per tub. To keep water levels even between the tubsites, the tubs should all dump into the same manifold.

Fuck the Undercurrent. Their 'epicenter' is setup backwards.

Waterfalls belong in the tubsites. Be sure they agitate the surface.

Pump should be sized at 100-150gph per tubsite. Bigger isn't better!

If your waterfalls are designed properly, you will not get snot and no chiller is needed.

But WTF do I know?
View attachment 4151475

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Please share your experience, how does your setup differ from an undercurrent. Also why would there be a max gph; could you just not add more sprayers to increase DO in each of the tubs?

SmokeyMcChokey said:

So much blue

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Mesmerizing

TIMtoKILL said:

Please share your experience, how does your setup differ from an undercurrent. Also why would there be a max gph; could you just not add more sprayers to increase DO in each of the tubs?

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Excess pump capacity just heats things up and fucks with water balance.

Undercurrent has the single waterfall in the only bucket you DON'T put a plant in- how fucking stupid is that?

Max DO is easy to achieve and it's usually not the cause of problems. You have to break up the surface to keep any kind of floating scum layer from getting established.

ttystikk said:

I used 1" bulkhead fittings, several per tub. To keep water levels even between the tubsites, the tubs should all dump into the same manifold.

Fuck the Undercurrent. Their 'epicenter' is setup backwards.

Waterfalls belong in the tubsites. Be sure they agitate the surface.

Pump should be sized at 100-150gph per tubsite. Bigger isn't better!

If your waterfalls are designed properly, you will not get snot and no chiller is needed.

But WTF do I know?
View attachment 4151475

Click to expand...

Plenty of people keep fish and fertilized plants under very bright lights......

Getting your shit snotted over is an amateur move in aquatics....
If you don't build up the beneficial bacteria population before starting to add ammonia and other kinds of organic waste, boom, diatom explosion....If I had the water available I would try to do DWC in the way we do planted tanks. It is called the EI system. 50% of the water gets replaced weekly and nutrients get replaced/topped up, and those ones like iron that doesn't stay around long get dosed daily or so. The most important part of the system is the bacteria and it takes a little while to set them up before putting systems in use. We normally use low ppms ammonia, enough to start a nice culture but not strong enough to kill them off. (3- 5 ppm)..

JSB99 said:

For the time being, the cheapo ones will work just fine. Just be sure to calibrate your pH meter every week or two. I keep the heads of my meters soaking in a glass of pure water or calibration solution, to keep them clean when not being used.

Click to expand...

About Ph meters and EC meters

If it is a Ph meter with a glass tip, the meter should NEVER be stored in demiwater or RO water.
Normal tapwater of callibration solution is also not that good, but slightly better then demiwater.
But you should keep the probe in Potassium chloride (KCl)

EC meter, just clean it gently and store it.
Needs no fluid.

ttystikk said:

I used 1" bulkhead fittings, several per tub. To keep water levels even between the tubsites, the tubs should all dump into the same manifold.

Fuck the Undercurrent. Their 'epicenter' is setup backwards.

Waterfalls belong in the tubsites. Be sure they agitate the surface.

Pump should be sized at 100-150gph per tubsite. Bigger isn't better!

If your waterfalls are designed properly, you will not get snot and no chiller is needed.

But WTF do I know?
View attachment 4151475

Click to expand...

But I thought you chilled your water when running RDWC? Didn’t you have a system setup to chill and heat?

When i was growing under extra hot conditions in RDWC i used bennies (beneficial bacteria) such as Real Growers Recharge, or a substitute and i had no issues. As someone already mentioned. If you have a good bacteria colony and can keep it alive, they'll make sure you don't get infected with malefics such as pythium... Even in hot conditions.