quick breaker question..

To clear this up for everyone, The receptacle is fine. This method is done when each outlet on the double gang Receptacle is going to have an appliance or device that take a lot of load. Usually you would see this in a kitchen, Or if you were to have a large A/C plug into the top outlet and other items in the bottom. If you remove the outlet look on the side to see if the metal tab or jumper has been removed, This isolates the 2 outlets. Also if you replace this outlet be sure to remove the jumper before closing the breaker.

im a licensed electrician and what mayhem just posted is totally accurate.. use caution when dealing with 240volt circuits remember that you have 120v(a phase) 120v(b phase) what happened is your plugs power jumper was clipped and 2 hot legs of 120 are in each recipticle always disconnect wires if u must alter them even though it is definatley not recommended . like he stated this was probably used for an appliance like a washer and maybe a freezer both plugged in at one time( two appliances that require their own circuit by code).. but that my friend is a functional hazard... BUT it is completely safe and you can plug splitters into both plugs and essentially have 2 circuits there

As soon as people see or hear something thats different from common knowledge, they just assume its wrong. There are many ways to do things and they still will be effective.

I have my lumateks running on a 110v 15amp recept. wired for 220. saved me from buying the 220v cords.and adding another recept., boxes etc.Prolly saved me bout 100$ all together. Works just fine. I'm a certified HVAC installer tho and know my well around an electrical panel.
I'm sure you electricians won't agree w/it but no one but me comes in my room so I don't have to worry about someone plugging a 120 v appliance in and fryin it. I'm also pulling off two separate meters too. One runs my 40amp mech timer which has 2kw of lights@220,dehumidifier, cooling fan for hoods as well as circ fans. Prolly bout 3-3.5 kw total. I have a trigger wire coming off the timer going to a relay wired to the other meter which runs an additional 2kw of lights in flower. The second meter also runs my veg as well as my A/C which I am about to upgrade to a mitsubishi mini-split
In doing this I keep my individual power bills down so not to draw suspicion. I also have other available meters to add more lights if I get there. Not stealing I pay all the bills.

thinn said:

As soon as people see or hear something thats different from common knowledge, they just assume its wrong. There are many ways to do things and they still will be effective.

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I agree totally. Safe and wrong are completely objective words. However legally flying has a point. If you are going to do things against mfg. specs/instructions the installation is not "proper" as it were. That in itself doesn't mean that the act is unsafe tho. If you understand what has been done and you don't exceed accepted amp draw and such. wiring can be done many diff. ways.The problem arises when someone else comes in making assumptions about things. With me and prob. most of us on here very few ppl get to see our gardens so someone else getting hurt is unlikely. If leo ever comes I hope he plugs his fukin cell phone into my 110v outlet wired for 220 When I leave my location all of my wiring is coming out so no one in the future will be in danger either.

I certainly don't advocate doing wiring if you do not what you are doing.

I run 220 off of 120 plugs as well. It's the amps that receptacles are rated for, not the volts.

Anyways, that is interesting to run two circuits to one plug. I understand how and realize its safe, but..who the fuck RAN the wires like that?

I remembered what I already knew this evening, pulling romex through conduit sucks. Pulling two strands of 12/2 through a 1/2" PVC conduit... Doable but a nightmare

legallyflying said:

I remembered what I already knew this evening, pulling romex through conduit sucks.

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riiight

I'm an Electrician too cdub. Another thing for everyone to keep in mind. People think if I run two 120v from your panel you can wire 240v. This to is not always correct. Depending on where you are, or what transformer is in front of you Delta or wye you don't get 240v. In your house you have 2 phases of 120v 90 degrees apart, Which means when you wire your 240v light your only running 208v to it. the voltage is high enough for it to function, but you increase amperage to make up for voltage loss. Something to keep in mind. If I didn't explain that good let me know.

fellas thats just the nature of the beast.. i have seen scary nightmares in attics and the builder said its a newly remodeled house with wire nut splices everywhere in the attic.. just because wiring looks safe doesnt mean anything until u bust out all your drywall so unless you are a professional be very careful!! and if anybody has any electrical questions please ask before you act! and never assume things unless your voltage meter tells you otherwise... and to prevent shock a simple 10$ voltage detector can go a long way

hahaha Sparkys Unite!! i am blessed for my electrical knowledge it makes growing sooooo much easier lol dont you agree?

Well sheeeit after all this talk bout electrical I decided to get my clampamp meter out and check some stuff. I was under the impression that lumateks when wired for 220 pulled bout 4 amps and mag. ballasts a little more. I have one lumatek and one magnetic ballast running off 220 on one 12ga. wire. I know it is 220 cuz I tested across both poles. When I checked the amp draw across each leg individually I was pulling around 8 amps on each leg. I am not a sparky w/ no formal training. And sadly my friend whom I could call on for questions on this died in a car accident. So I ask ya'll. I am pretty sure that the amp draw is cumulative for both legs for a total of 16 amps correct? So it would seem that my ballast's are still pulling around 8amps apiece. Why would this be?

120v......do you have the 220 cord plugged into tue ballasts? You should be pulling less then 5 amps for a 1000watt ballast on 220.

Sorry had to read it again, yes 220 splits the load equally between the two poles (this is why your bill is not cheaper) it just frees up more amp room for you

My feed is actually 240 not 220v. Me bad. Either way Each leg is pulling close to 8 amps. WTF?

thinn said:

Sorry had to read it again, yes 220 splits the load equally between the two poles (this is why your bill is not cheaper) it just frees up more amp room for you

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Oh I think I see. The light still pulls 8 amps it is just split between the two poles. correct?

Yes, it splits the amps on each pole. So yes you are still pulling 18 amps. If it worked the way you were thinking, everyone under the sun would be running 220 on everything because it would be cheaper. You are still using the same amount of electricity hence the bill not going done in price! You make for a smaller load so it doesnt overload the circuit.

8 amp ballast on 220v

4amps to one pole, 4 amps to the second pole. You dont make 4 amps disappear your just splitting it.

Hope that helps

gotcha. Thanks a bunch

Someone please go look at my other electrical questions in grow room Building forum I'm almost done I decided to go with the 240 breaker now I need someone to instruct me how to wire a 4 wire romex into a duplex 240 plug.. Instead of silver on 1 side of the plug and brass on the other it has to brass sides and 1 green ground screw on bottom WTF??

I figured that way with the duplex plug I've got 1 plug for 1,000 watt ballast and other plug for the other and 1 receptacle just a lot easier that way I think

TooRare2Die said:

I figured that way with the duplex plug I've got 1 plug for 1,000 watt ballast and other plug for the other and 1 receptacle just a lot easier that way I think

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The reason both are brass is because one hot goes to each brass, ie, red goes to one and black goes to one. Bare copper goes to the green screw. Common/ white is not used.