Haha no sweat man. You'd need a different fixture/light.Chief,
thanks for letting me pick your brain and for spoon feeding me!
Last question if you don't mind: Was doing the research on cooltubes and i can't seem to find any grows with cooltubes being used with Gavita DE lights. Would it work? I've never used HID lighting only LED so I'm not sure if the ballast has to be mounted directly to the light.. would you happen to know if cooltubes will work with these lights/reflector?:
damn, i think my roommate already has gavitas on the way... so that home depot hood wouldnt work on the gavitas?Haha no sweat man. You'd need a different fixture/light.
You'd want something like this...
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Hydro-Crunch-42-in-Double-Ended-DE-Cool-Tube-XXL-Wing-with-8-in-Duct-Grow-Light-Reflector-for-up-to-1000-Watt-B379900300/302868986
How many ft2 is your room?
Yeah gavitas are a solid light tried and testedwould be very hard for me to pull the trigger on some uiniverselite lights without at least seeing/hearing anecdotal evidence of them working great
You'd have to do some DIY, it doesn't look like the de hoods will fit on the gavitas without modifying them. If you understand that the gravitas operate on the same principle, ie a ballast driving a bulb, then you'd just have to attach a power cord between the gavita ballast output and the de fixture input. You'd want to use some thick gauge wire, probably 12ga.damn, i think my roommate already has gavitas on the way... so that home depot hood wouldnt work on the gavitas?
the room is 150-ish sq ft i believe
Know that extending the wire from the ballast to the lamp on high frequency ballasts is likely to cause RF interference. The wire acts like an antenna. When the ballast is connected directly to the lamp the connection is shielded (faraday cage) so the RF emission isn't an issue.You'd have to do some DIY, it doesn't look like the de hoods will fit on the gavitas without modifying them. If you understand that the gravitas operate on the same principle, ie a ballast driving a bulb, then you'd just have to attach a power cord between the gavita ballast output and the de fixture input. You'd want to use some thick gauge wire, probably 12ga.
Good catch.Know that extending the wire from the ballast to the lamp on high frequency ballasts is likely to cause RF interference. The wire acts like an antenna. When the ballast is connected directly to the lamp the connection is shielded (faraday cage) so the RF emission isn't an issue.
I thought they (gavita) got in some RF trouble with their remote ballasts?I kinda remember gavita selling their own extension cords. are they shielded I wonder?
I have no clue, I ran seperated ballasts and was in a place that rf wasn't a consideration. I'm pretty sure I had lumateks too but can't remember its been awhile.I kinda remember gavita selling their own extension cords. are they shielded I wonder?
This would be interesting!I did shielded cable with the old school lumatek ballasts (1st gen silver). Needed to relocate them about 20 feet on the longer runs. I don't know how effective it was but there were no complaints from neighbors. Not sure what frequency they drive the lamp at but it would be interesting to experiment with a broadband RF receiver and various lengths of different cords on different ballasts. I actually have a broadband bug detector but I am not sure if it would detect the frequency used as it's more in the gigahertz range I think.
yeah the old ferrite bead.I know the Hydrofarm remote DE High Freq ballasts have filters on the power and lamp cords
Quick question in somewhat relation (sorry but while I have all the legends In the same thread why not right)On more plantmatter, cooler room: its down to transpiration; more plants, more transpiration, more humidity and temps drop. I sincerely doubt any other explanation.
thisOr would it just sit there spinning its wheels?