Project: Alpha

sounds right to me.
My drawing culd be missleading as i didnt saw the +/-, but you will :-)

For the Cobs on the heatsink, just used CXB´s on the pinfin heatsinks, but theyre heavily oversized, at least for my driving current.
Will work for sure, just what amount of cooling needed/ current etc. idk.
 
Big Perm said:
I have these old greenhouse prototypes that are years old. They are called Alpha. This light project ended and a new model was designed. These run hot and are normally 400w. I have them on some regular houseplants and vegetables.
Hydro Grow LED designed these lights a while ago. It was a prototype, and the cooling was so bad on the air flow that it always ran way hot on one side and would overheat drivers. They haven't changed the spectrum in their product line from the very beginning. Half of the boards have been unplugged so that it would run at 200w. I showed my pics in a thread and was recommended I wire up the boards in series to be able to power them all at half wattage instead of half the boards at full wattage.
This is the thread for all of the modifications I am going to do to this light. I will also be doing a veggie grow with these after I do the modifications.
Thank you.
Click to expand...

Enjoying following along on this thread. Thank you for the inspiration to tinker around and learn a bit. I got sent a free kind led L450 light like two years ago. Bought it through amazon when I first got growing, but kept reading reviews that night and cancelled it in the morning before it had posted as shipped. Got my full refund. Bought some timber cob lights instead with the refund, but three days later the light showed up at my door. Feel guilty about not returning it, but ended up just using it for the two weeks I waited for the timbers and then threw it back in the box where it's stayed since then. Just pulled it out and took it all apart, pretty similar wiring to what you've got going on as well.

Best of luck with your experiment and cant wait to see how it turns out sir. Hopefully I can learn along with you and turn it into something a little more practical for what I've got going in my small tents.
 
It would be easy peasy to wire it up 1 Diver per pair of boards. Just gotta know if the forward voltage of 2 boards together is within range to light up off 1 driver?

Driver Hot into first board - negative from first board out to Positive of second board - negative of second board back to driver.
 
OneHitDone said:
It would be easy peasy to wire it up 1 Diver per pair of boards. Just gotta know if the forward voltage of 2 boards together is within range to light up off 1 driver?

Driver Hot into first board - negative from first board out to Positive of second board - negative of second board back to driver.
Click to expand...
That would be series.
 
I've run these 2 stripped out platinum leds, p150 and p450 for a while now as supplemental lighting. Epiled Bridgelux 3 watt diodes
Both bare boards, no heatsinks at ~ 30 watts each on one 600mA 55v - 100v China driver.
They work good enough for me.
20190609_183625.jpg
 
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Ok, I was showing Mrs. Perm all of my hard work on this light and right before I flipped the switch I noticed that I have a phantom draw somewhere. Good thing is that the light timers kill the power, and most lights don't have a switch anyway. Just found it odd.
The pictures are a little deceiving, the light isn't that noticeable. It looks like it is cooling off, very weak. It doesn't even register on the kill-a-watt, 0.0watts.
IMG_20190718_113351.jpg IMG_20190718_113334.jpg
 
:clap:
lookin good.
for the phantom draw, idk, guess thats a bit driver related.
Wont worry too much there.
Any beofre after Par/Lux readings :)
 
cobshopgrow said:
:clap:
lookin good.
for the phantom draw, idk, guess thats a bit driver related.
Wont worry too much there.
Any beofre after Par/Lux readings :)
Click to expand...
Best I can do is a phone app test, but I can do it at the exact same distance before and after. If anyone wants to see that.
 
think any meter will do, as long it is the same distance.
Some more meassure point could be sensefull as spread will differ.
But up to you! not urgent or anything.
 
Blurples often glow in the dark, flipping the timer 180 degrees in the socket usually helps. Seen this issue since 2009 or so when I got my first blurple (Blackstar by Lighthouse hydro).
 
Psyphish said:
Blurples often glow in the dark, flipping the timer 180 degrees in the socket usually helps. Seen this issue since 2009 or so when I got my first blurple (Blackstar by Lighthouse hydro).
Click to expand...
My 84x's don't do it.
I have three prong on just about everything, so can't do that. I guess I could do some wire switching inside, but I also found out that they all do it and I never really noticed. When the timer shuts off the power to it is dead anyway, just thought it was weird that all of them with the switch off and power on glow.
I don't think I have ever had them plugged in with the switch off and looked at them. First time was when I showed the misses.
 
Last edited:
Big Perm said:
My 84x's don't do it.
I have three prong on just about everything, so can't do that. I guess I could do some wire switching inside, but I also found out that they all do it and I never really noticed. When the timer shuts off the power to it is dead anyway, just thought it was weird that all of them with the switch off and power on glow.
I don't think I have ever had them plugged in with the switch off and looked at them. First time was when I showed the misses.
Click to expand...
Those cheap ass drivers are probably the problem she want to make an extra $20 per fixture so she give people shitty cheap drivers
 
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