Please help

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Drgreebthumb628

Member
Beachwalker said:
I could only find Cervantes Indoor Marijuana Horticulture in my library
*Had to delete link due to new member status**drgreenthumb628

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I found PHing my water first to 6.0 is better. Of I ph water to 6 I can get dam close to 5.5 with nutes. If I only ph after adding nutes it takes 2 to 3x the amount of ph down to hit the sweet spot. The nutes I'm using only slightly lowers ph. What I have been doing is I will check, add ph down, mix, check, write numbers down, come back in 1 hour check. And than check once again writing everything down until I can figure this ph shit out. I have been having a problem of ph and ppm both going up..does anyone know the cause or fix to this?
 
Galwaith

Galwaith

Member
Drgreebthumb628 said:
I found PHing my water first to 6.0 is better. Of I ph water to 6 I can get dam close to 5.5 with nutes. If I only ph after adding nutes it takes 2 to 3x the amount of ph down to hit the sweet spot. The nutes I'm using only slightly lowers ph. What I have been doing is I will check, add ph down, mix, check, write numbers down, come back in 1 hour check. And than check once again writing everything down until I can figure this ph shit out. I have been having a problem of ph and ppm both going up..does anyone know the cause or fix to this?
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PH will climb back up as nutrients are depleted.

There are all sorts of things that can make it go up. If you're using airstones, for example. If you're using distilled water, as I said in an earlier posting, there is nothing for the PH adjuster to "bind" to, so the PH will slowly climb back up.

I am pretty sure this is why folks use acid and alkali "buffers" in salt water fish tanks so that they don't have to keep constantly adjusting the PH, usually there are not enough "buffers" in the water so you have to add some in order to maintain a higher PH. Most Salt water fish tank buffers are "fixers and buffers" all in one.

In hydro there are no buffers, just fixers. So we have to deal with the constant fluctuations, as long as the fluctuations are within +1- then you should be fine.
 
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Drgreebthumb628

Member
1 or .1? My ph will be set to 5.5 5.6 and the next day itll be 6.5 nd my ppm will go up approx 50 points. I will than adjust the ph back down to 6ish which has been happening everyday. I am going to flush my dwc and my drip system for 24 hours tonight to see if it helps. I have AN flawless finish or fox farm bush doctor sledgehammer. Should I use one over the other? What are the advantages of one over the other? Or should I just flush with ph'd tap water at 80 ppm or distilled water?
 
myke

myke

Well-Known Member
just a noob,i have the same problem.ph rising.i find after about the third time i have a rise it finally settles at 6.0 and stays.changing the res isn't going to help as u just start again.
im thinking a lot of air in my system is why.
 
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Drgreebthumb628

Member
All in all both plants are looking healthier. Buds are getting bigger. I hope it keeps it up. Keeping my amnesia haze simple bloom a and b. Cannazym, bud factor x, and bud candy. Thinking I may add nirvana next week but not sure
 
BDGrows

BDGrows

Well-Known Member
Drgreebthumb628 said:
First winter grow. Last summer my grow died in mid flower due to being away and had someone water them with inexperience and they drown them. Now its winter, I run dwc one is a auto (amnesia haze from cks) that shows signs of ph stress(only after I started to use ph down and set the nutrient water mix to 5.5, after the signs I stopped adjusting ph and will just use the AN con line with no ph adjustments)and what I believe is recovering from sulfur def after I added Epsom salt last night. I have already lost 1 plant due to nitrogen toxicity (royale queen seeds space queen) . My blue dream fem from HSO shows signs of nitrogen toxicity aswel but I backed off as soon as i saw. My problem now is the new growth is yellowing from the inside out, I dont think its N def as the leaves are kinda shineg and the tips were also yellowing hard to see in pic. I use the AN connoisseur line. I attempted to switch to GH flora series after my N toxicity but that has not done anything so I went back to AN last night. I flipped the lights to 12/12 three days ago as my blue dream is going to max out in height during stretch. Can anyone help with these deficiencies as the leaves almost look neon green and shiny, they are also curling/twisting. I recently riged a way to get the grow room at approx 70 deg with lights off as they were down to approx 61 degrees with lights off. Any help would greatly be appreciated as if this grow fails I will be giving up as it is to much $ on electric, nutes, time, etc...
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I only read a few pages but I think all the points I would make have been addressed. But Ill divulge anyways... First, it sounds like you have a pH meter already, get yourself an EC meter as well. Also, your hydro pH should be 5.8, not 5.5. Second, less is more. If you're using AN's A+B formula then stick with it and stop adjusting; you're trying to fix your problem but keep moving the target. Personally, I prefer head's formula, 8mL GH micro + 16mL GH bloom + 1mL Cal-Mag per gal, for its simplicity, results, as well as the ability to tweak it without throwing the system out of sorts entirely. The few downsides I've discovered from it is pH fluctuations and as I previously said, I felt like it is incomplete. But, if youre running other lines and having bad results, the head's system is tried and true for DWC. As for your temps, they seem fine but try not to have them dip below 60; I've run into issues when my res temps hit 55 degrees. Good luck and give your plants time to recover.

- BD
 
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Drgreebthumb628

Member
Thank you but this was an old thread someone dug up. It was a ph issues I believe. Fell for the ph perfect BULLSHIT. I've harvested successfully. Thank you though.
 
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Drgreebthumb628

Member
Not bad just wished I knew about the ph bull prior to everything cause it def affected yields but the amnesia haze is an amazingly smooth daytime smoke.
 
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