Please help

I've read up on all I can find but I'm still having this problem:

Yellowing from the bottom up (mag?). Height is stunted. Leaves die and curl upward. smaller growth/leaves on bottom of plant all die. I have a hard time believing this is nute burn but maybe i'm so obsessed with a possible deficiency that maybe it is simple nute burn??

Using advanced nutes, sensizyme, hygrozyme, carboload, big bud, today i swapped water in res with added cal/mag and "revive" in hopes to resolve issues.

Strain: Soma NYC diesel, PH is set to 6.0 my ppm is around 1200 in my 3d week of flower.

Any help is appreciated

qcleblanc said:

I've read up on all I can find but I'm still having this problem:

Yellowing from the bottom up (mag?). Height is stunted. Leaves die and curl upward. smaller growth/leaves on bottom of plant all die. I have a hard time believing this is nute burn but maybe i'm so obsessed with a possible deficiency that maybe it is simple nute burn??

Using advanced nutes, sensizyme, hygrozyme, carboload, big bud, today i swapped water in res with added cal/mag and "revive" in hopes to resolve issues.

Strain: Soma NYC diesel, PH is set to 6.0 my ppm is around 1200 in my 3d week of flower.

Any help is appreciated

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What was your ppm on your last nute mix? Plants look nice and green and dont seem to be deficient I would say nute burn from looking at this but more info is needed. Also if your 3rd week into flower where are the flowers? when your lights are off you need to make sure there are 0 light leeks into the room where the ladies are, if there are light leaks they will not switch over to flower. If cal mag does not resolve your issue i would try backing off the nutes a bit. Here is a pic of one of mine that is only 2 1/2 weeks into flower. Good luck

caspperrr said:

What was your ppm on your last nute mix? Plants look nice and green and dont seem to be deficient I would say nute burn from looking at this but more info is needed. Also if your 3rd week into flower where are the flowers? when your lights are off you need to make sure there are 0 light leeks into the room where the ladies are, if there are light leaks they will not switch over to flower. If cal mag does not resolve your issue i would try backing off the nutes a bit. Here is a pic of one of mine that is only 2 1/2 weeks into flower. Good luck

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ppm was 1200. What more info would you need? What i meant was...It has been 3 weeks since I switched to 12/12. Flowers are just now starting to form. No light is getting in during dark hours.

qcleblanc said:

ppm was 1200. What more info would you need? What i meant was...It has been 3 weeks since I switched to 12/12. Flowers are just now starting to form. No light is getting in during dark hours.

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I was asking what your previous ppm was to see if there was a major jump between then and now but I guess you have always ran it at 1200 so must not be nute burn, even though i think if you were to run ppm's at 1200 in early veg it would be logical to think you would burn a plant but you must have a super duper superior mutant strain. I also understood what you meant by 3rd week of flower so maybe I wrote mine unclearly I also meant it has been 2 1/2 weeks since I switched to 12/12. I did not see the forming flowers maybe its because you cant in the pics you provided so i thought maybe fruits werent starting to form was just trying to lookout but sounds like you have figured it all out. Good luck

caspperrr said:

I was asking what your previous ppm was to see if there was a major jump between then and now but I guess you have always ran it at 1200 so must not be nute burn, even though i think if you were to run ppm's at 1200 in early veg it would be logical to think you would burn a plant but you must have a super duper superior mutant strain. I also understood what you meant by 3rd week of flower so maybe I wrote mine unclearly I also meant it has been 2 1/2 weeks since I switched to 12/12. I did not see the forming flowers maybe its because you cant in the pics you provided so i thought maybe fruits werent starting to form was just trying to lookout but sounds like you have figured it all out. Good luck

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The ppms werent that high all along...it was 1200, then i noticed problems just a few days after that jump up to 1200 (from lower but i'm not sure where exactly) and did a res change with added cal-mag. As far as flowers, they are small, on the plant tops, will be forming rapidly starting now if these plant recover but i dont at all have it figured out. Can you (or anyone else viewing) give opinions based on photos? Does it even look like nute burn? I've never burned my plants before

qcleblanc said:

The ppms werent that high all along...it was 1200, then i noticed problems just a few days after that jump up to 1200 (from lower but i'm not sure where exactly) and did a res change with added cal-mag. As far as flowers, they are small, on the plant tops, will be forming rapidly starting now if these plant recover but i dont at all have it figured out. Can you (or anyone else viewing) give opinions based on photos? Does it even look like nute burn? I've never burned my plants before

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Its hard to say these pictures are a lil week, are they burning anywhere? Are the leaves curling under? Any noticeable spots or necrosis? What kind of sytem is this? Cal mag seems to make some since but you added it already any noticeable change? Is the yellow still progressing after you added the new calmag? How many ml's per gallon did you add of the cal mag? new pictures would be great if possible.

Sorry about pics, these should be better if they fit. The leaves are curling sometimes in both directions. Just today notices necrosis. I'm not sure the name of the system as in...I just refer to it as a drip system. I'm not familiar with all the different types (ebb and flow etc. etc.) It has a 10 gallon res, drips on timers. I just added cal-mag yesterday so i doubt very much it'd be noticeable yet. I added about half the recommended dosage from the back of the cal/mag bottle.

Yes, those pics are full size. Uploading raw images directly from iphoto doesnt produce good images.

Check your roots, make sure they're healthy. If pythium grabs hold, your plants will stall out, start yellowing and get wobbly at the base. They'll be beyond repair before you can say "bummer."

God's Balls said:

Check your roots, make sure they're healthy. If pythium grabs hold, your plants will stall out, start yellowing and get wobbly at the base. They'll be beyond repair before you can say "bummer."

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Good point it could definately be the roots are your roots nice and white or are they brown and slimey? A good way to tell is just kind of tug a lil bit and if it's root rot they will just fall of in your hands healthy roots will not. http://www.technaflora.com/products.php?product=19
that is a link to what I use for cal mag and it says to overcome deficiencies to add 10 ml per gallon. Plants in flower need stronger cal mag then when in veg I would add full strength but it will increase your ppm so you will have to mix res again. you want to start off with a base of calmag at about 300 - 350 ppm then add your nutes and make sure you dont make them too strong you should maybe go a total of 1000 ppm to back them off a bit and this is if your roots are looking good, if not then its a whole different subject, are you using ro water??

I would say the yellow leaves with green veins usually screams of iron/nitrogen uptake issues I would try that magical stuff or go find some liquid chelated iron you can find that stuff at the home depot

qcleblanc said:

What magical stuff?

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Yeah well, upon investigation, my roots are nasty looking. So i'm guessing this is a nutrient uptake issue for sure. Are there any products I can use that might reverse this if not too late?

I've physically removed some of the rotten roots that easily come off. I am going to my hydro store to buy some aquashield (i believe that's the name). What should I do about my current feeding schedule? Stay on it while I try to deal with this problem or adjust it in some way?