Jimdamick
Well-Known Member
he said the plant was at 6 weeks, not much time left for anything, assuming it's an 8 week bloom. That is why I wouldn't bother feeding her.
PLEASE HELP!! wk 6 look like they are dying
- Thread starter growdiesel
- Start date
Jimdamick
Well-Known Member
So with organics you don't have to worry about PH and the TDS/EC/PPM of your feed solution? Must be nice to not have to worry about things like that. I have always found it to be a pain in the ass to balance that shit out. I think I'll try it.
Cannasutraorganics
Well-Known Member
It's not cheap. And at six weeks on a eight week strain your right I would stop most nutes. I don't grow eight week strains. Some might pull at eight, but I like my Amber. I pull when trics tell me. So I go nine and then some for my fastest. Many going ten and eleven. Some I go fourteen to eighteen weeks.
With organics if you over feed you just rinse and keep going. On new strains I start at lower levels and slowly go up. I'm OCD so I test everything.
Dr. Who
Well-Known Member
WOW! What a bunch of crap info (for the most part)!
1: He's using an organic feed....That means NO nutrient SALTS! DON'T flush,,,flushing is for toilets!
2: He's feeding at 2.5 times the required amount. Can you SEE the P problem??? TOO MUCH!
2A: NO amount of added "N" will fix that......You DON'T need "more" N.
3: pH all ingoing fluids to 6.5 and FORGET about the soil pH!!!!
A pH meter is always good to have. pH all ingoing to your target 6.5.....
TDS/EC pen is so unneeded for soil grows of any kind (Yeah, that includes coco grows)!
A Ca/Mg supplement should ALWAYS be added to RO and Distilled water! No mater HOW you grow.
A simple AACT tea or an over the counter equivalent (a "tea" or "zyme" product) will ensure proper "living" microbial counts in your soil, if you feel you need to amend them.
I suggest the use of an organic kelp to help your overall plant health. The added B vits and Humic/Fulvic acids will go a long way to a better result. Fulvic acids help REGULATE P uptake,,,use from the start next time.
Now then, simply pHed water for 5-7 days and return to feeding the PROPER amounts of your nutrients.
It will take around 7-10 days for the P tox to stabilize. The yellowing will slow way down and almost stop (some yellowing is normal in later bloom stages).
P tox is the MOST common problem around here in bloom!
You'll learn, so don't fret about it.
You said your growing auto's?
Organic and in soil is the best thing for those! Light feeding as they tend to be "fussy" feeders helps too.
P problems for auto's is common and easy to do if not familiar with them.
Grow on
Doc
1: He's using an organic feed....That means NO nutrient SALTS! DON'T flush,,,flushing is for toilets!
2: He's feeding at 2.5 times the required amount. Can you SEE the P problem??? TOO MUCH!
2A: NO amount of added "N" will fix that......You DON'T need "more" N.
3: pH all ingoing fluids to 6.5 and FORGET about the soil pH!!!!
A pH meter is always good to have. pH all ingoing to your target 6.5.....
TDS/EC pen is so unneeded for soil grows of any kind (Yeah, that includes coco grows)!
A Ca/Mg supplement should ALWAYS be added to RO and Distilled water! No mater HOW you grow.
A simple AACT tea or an over the counter equivalent (a "tea" or "zyme" product) will ensure proper "living" microbial counts in your soil, if you feel you need to amend them.
I suggest the use of an organic kelp to help your overall plant health. The added B vits and Humic/Fulvic acids will go a long way to a better result. Fulvic acids help REGULATE P uptake,,,use from the start next time.
Now then, simply pHed water for 5-7 days and return to feeding the PROPER amounts of your nutrients.
It will take around 7-10 days for the P tox to stabilize. The yellowing will slow way down and almost stop (some yellowing is normal in later bloom stages).
P tox is the MOST common problem around here in bloom!
You'll learn, so don't fret about it.
You said your growing auto's?
Organic and in soil is the best thing for those! Light feeding as they tend to be "fussy" feeders helps too.
P problems for auto's is common and easy to do if not familiar with them.
Grow on
Doc
workinit
Well-Known Member
I disagree on PH. If you knew anything about organics you would know that PH of your water/solution DOES NOT MATTER. People messing with PH screws up more grows than anything else. You do realize that most PH down is phosphoric acid. Did you know that Botanicare's PH down actually list the NPK at 0 15 0? That's a shit ton of P. How many growers even consider this? Even when using mineral salts the alkalinity of your water is more important than the actual PH so long as your growing in PH buffered medium. If your alkalinity is below 100ppm PH adjustments of your water/solution are not necessary and can actually be harmful.
Water Quality: pH and Alkalinity
Recently, some growers have expressed concern about the "high pH" of their irrigation water and its potential adverse effects on plants. The purpose of this article is to allay some of these concerns by pointing out the difference between "high pH" and "high alkalinity".
Alkalinity and pH are two important factors in determining the suitability of water for irrigating plants. pH is a measure of the concentration of hydrogen ions (H+) in water or other liquids. In general, water for irrigation should have a pH b etween 5.0 and 7.0. Water with pH below 7.0 is termed "acidic" and water with pH above 7.0 is termed "basic"; pH 7.0 is "neutral". Sometimes the term "alkaline" is used instead of "basic" and often "alkaline" is confused with "alkalinity". Alkalinity is a measure of the water's ability to neutralize acidity. An alkalinity test measures the level of bicarbonates, carbonates, and hydroxides in water and test results are generally expressed as "ppm of calcium carbonate (CaCO3)". The desirable range f or irrigation water is 0 to 100 ppm calcium carbonate. Levels between 30 and 60 ppm are considered optimum for most plants.
Irrigation water tests should always include both pH and alkalinity tests. A pH test by itself is not an indication of alkalinity. Water with high alkalinity (i.e., high levels of bicarbonates or carbonates) always has a pH value ÷7 or above, but water with high pH doesn't always have high alkalinity. This is important because high alkalinity exerts the most significant effects on growing medium fertility and plant nutrition.
Acidification of High Alkalinity Water
Many greenhouse operators inject acid (e.g., phosphoric, nitric, or sulfuric acid) into water with problematic high levels of alkalinity. Acidification of water having high pH but low alkalinity is rarely necessary. The use of acid injection sh ould be considered very carefully for several reasons. First, it is an extra step in production which will require additional materials and equipment. Second, acids are dangerous to handle and may damage some injectors and piping systems. Third, phosphoric or nitric acid are sources of P and NO3, so the regular fertilizer program may need to be modified to take into account the addition of these nutrients. This would depend on how much acid must be used to neutralize the alkalinity and reduce pH. Fourth, sometimes acid injection causes the solubilization of normally precipitated (unavailable) forms of trace elements resulting in levels toxic to plants.
The amount of acid required to reach the desired pH (i.e., neutralize alkalinity) is determined by laboratory titration of a water sample with the appropriate acid or by a calculation procedure. Some "fine-tuning" may be needed later when actual inject ion is started. Acid is always injected prior to the addition of fertilizer or other chemicals.
Prepared by Douglas Cox
Plant and Soil Sciences
University of Massachusetts
Amherst
August 1995.
And as they say the proofs in the pudding. These are clones in Promix HP. Have never adjusted my PH and they seem to be doing just fine. My waters alkalinity is around 65ppm.
Pic 3 was taken the day they were transplanted. Pic 14 3 days later.
That being said your dead on about P overload. It kills a bunch of grows.
Dr. Who
Well-Known Member
I run mostly water only organic grows. I water with RO that's 6.0 pH and as you state, I don't adjust that pH to 6.5 either. You simply don't HAVE TO.
I do pH combo org/synthetic runs and always pH straight synth grows.
If someone has a major pH "off center" water problem and uses a quality pH up or down. The "hurt" you speak of is minimal. I would still adjust. That's my choice. I see it as less stress on the living soil to not work as hard to balance the plants pH needs. It has worked out with no "seen" adverse effects over the years. BUT,,,I adjust with organic ups or downs.
Botanicare pH down has never been used by me for just the reason you list!
All pH downs are different for NPK values. Most hover around 1-5-0 and pH up will raise K levels (Not always a bad thing and better tolerated by the plant). The less you use to get where you need is best.
Mad farmer makes a nice down that needs 50% less to do what others do (and uses far less phosphoric acid then the others too). Stabilization of pH in hydro applications last long too.
Earth juice Naturals offer solutions to adjust pH for organic growers (both up and down). Otherwise the use of.....
pH down agent's:
Lime
lemon
vinegar
pH up agent:
Baking soda
Fulvic acid lowers pH naturally.
Kelp products contain it and lower pH naturally AND are good for the plant and the soil. I like Age Old.
You can equate the Kelp and lower pH values to liquid Organic ferts that are always "low" when mixed, like the GH organic line does. There is a lot of Kelp compounds used in liquid organic and "near" organic lines of ferts.
The proper use of Dolomite lime in your soil mix, is the key to organic pH control. And you are 100% correct that properly prepared organic soils do not need to have pH adjustments done during the grow.
It is wrong to use Gypsum as a liming agent! It will supply FAST Ca and S to your soil and helps decrease salt build ups for synthetic users, but will NOT lower the soils pH!
With all that said,,,,,,,,,,,,
NICE post Workinit!
Doc
growdiesel
Well-Known Member
wow. ALOT of useful and helpful info. thanks guys. i had flushed them about a week ago or so and they have been looking better over the passed few days. one plants buds finally starting producing some stickyness to them and a nice smell. the buds are filling out a little bit, SLIGHTLY, and all newer growth adn growth around the buds remain nice an green not yellow. the fan leaves around the buds are a bit yellow from the damage before.
I also noticed after flushing them, the plants seem to be holding alot of water for the last few days. i havent watered them since the flush last week and the soil of the plants is still wet bc they are still heavy. but the leaves seem to be VERY dry which makes me want to give them some water.... im assuming i should still wait?
what signed besides a light pot should i be looking for, so i know when is best to start watering? like i said the leaves feel very dry n crispy, but yellowing as certainly slowed down and some green is now back.
thanks again.
I also noticed after flushing them, the plants seem to be holding alot of water for the last few days. i havent watered them since the flush last week and the soil of the plants is still wet bc they are still heavy. but the leaves seem to be VERY dry which makes me want to give them some water.... im assuming i should still wait?
what signed besides a light pot should i be looking for, so i know when is best to start watering? like i said the leaves feel very dry n crispy, but yellowing as certainly slowed down and some green is now back.
thanks again.
Jimdamick
Well-Known Member
If it has been a week, and the soil is still wet, that is not good. With good drainage, it shouldn't be more than 4 or 5 days till you could water. That could be an issue, but you should have a bigtime droop if the roots are drowned. What is you soil mixture again? How many crispy leaves and are they on the top or bottom or all over. Crispy leaves and overwatering really don't mix. Are the crispy leaves still green, or turning brown? No bugs?. In the remaining 2 weeks you do not have a lot of time for repair. I would run a fan across the pot your plant is in to help dry out the soil. If it was earlier I would have said to repot, but that would not be recommendable now seeing as they have bloomed. I would say keep your fingers crossed, and they hopefully make it to the finish line. Good luck
Smootherpete
Well-Known Member
grow in coco with canna A+B coco nutes and a little calmag = no more problems
growdiesel
Well-Known Member
my soil mixture is the roots organic soil. ALOT of crispy leaves. almost lost all of the plants. they were on the bottom and worked there way up. the leaves turned brown and eventually got spots on others. NO BUGS YET thank god.
i started another fan facing down on my soil to dry it up faster. i checked my log is was 3-4 days since flush not a week, im a little slow sometimes. haha.
crop king says 8 weeks for seeds. they said you can assume to push it another two weeks while keeping an eye on buds before harvest.
i read other places people are getting 9-10 weeks out of the NL auto's... i am on my 2nd day of week 7 so i am hoping that over the next two weeks or so the plants keep filling out.
i will post pics later about 4pm eastern when i get home from work. but the buds are filling out a little bit now, turning whiter and forming crystals. i am behind on my grow when i look at some others, but not terribly. the green in my leaves are coming back, but i did lose ALOT of leaves from a few plants.
i had not thought they would recover but since they had been there worst, they now look ten times better and are showing growth and improvements daily. keep in mind they may look like SHIT in the new pics, but they are soo much better and still improving.
Mr John
Active Member
