Ph? Nutrient burn?

Newmmc

Well-Known Member
I checked my ppm meter I was going by the 700 scale. So it's translated 860 on the 700 to 600 on the 500. So I've been vegging with 600 ppm... I'm just fed this morning so probably Sunday I'll hit it with the cal mag
 

Newmmc

Well-Known Member
with my last nutrients I used this calmag about a third strength unless you guys think other wise I'll do that with my next feed. Other than that my plants look pretty happy today. So hopefully I can flip the lights soon. I mentioned with my original post that the last week before I moved them to the bigger light they were pretty neglected and I let them get dry It seemed like between that and then throwing them under that light is when they started looking ugly
 

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old shol4evr

Well-Known Member
from the hanna scale you should be running these numbers if your plants can handle it, early bloom 750-950 ppm 1.5-1.9 ec,full mature 1000-1600 ppm 2.0-3.2 ec ,
 

old shol4evr

Well-Known Member
hanna scale for veg is seedlings 100-250 ppm 0.2-0.5 ec,early veg 300-400 ppm 0.6-0.8 ec,full veg 450-700 ppm 1.5-1.9ec. hope that helps you bro
 

teknival

Active Member
You may be worried to use that much cal mag but remember it also contains 2 percent nitrogen which will add to your n p k values. Plants in coco need a lot of calcium. Calcium and Magnesium are just as important as NPK and plants will not do well without adequate levels of each. I have a good feeling the cal mag will fix your issues. These two elements also aid in the uptake of of other nutrients which is why your leaves are showing sign of multiple deficiencies. The taco leaves are a tell tale sign of mag def.. This is sometimes called praying for magnesium.
 

roorsmoker

Well-Known Member
Different strains require different ppm, but I keep it as low as i possibly can while using coco <800. You said you've ran this strain fine in the past under the same set-up right? If the only thing you changed between this grow and the last was the nutrients, I would probably try adding some cal-mag.I use botanicare's line, but there are many out there. Just make sure it's water soluble. That curling can happen from Mg deficiency like others have said.

If that doesn't help, the second picture could be sulfur deficiency from possible wrong pH or salt buildup. If it's happening to the upper leaves more than the lower leaves (the yellowing), it's most likely a S being locked out. If that's the case, a slight weening back on the nutrients helps.

I'm fairly new to coco as well, and I'm having trouble trying to figure out the proper time to quit the cal-mag during flower. I usually stop a week before i flush. Is that too soon? I usually try for about a 10-14 day flush, with pH'd RO water. They just seem like they would do better with longer use of the cal-mag because I can notice it in the leaves like 2-3 days after I stop using it.
 
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Newmmc

Well-Known Member
Different strains require different ppm, but I keep it as low as i possibly can while using coco <800. You said you've ran this strain fine in the past under the same set-up right? If the only thing you changed between this grow and the last was the nutrients, I would probably try adding some cal-mag.I use botanicare's line, but there are many out there. Just make sure it's water soluble. That curling can happen from Mg deficiency like others have said.

If that doesn't help, the second picture could be sulfur deficiency from possible wrong pH or salt buildup. If it's happening to the upper leaves more than the lower leaves (the yellowing), it's most likely a S being locked out. If that's the case, a slight weening back on the nutrients helps.

I'm fairly new to coco as well, and I'm having trouble trying to figure out the proper time to quit the cal-mag during flower. I usually stop a week before i flush. Is that too soon? I usually try for about a 10-14 day flush, with pH'd RO water. They just seem like they would do better with longer use of the cal-mag because I can notice it in the leaves like 2-3 days after I stop using it.
Thanks for the help. When I first started this thread it was a mag def. I began feeding calmag and that stopped then 3 weeks layer this started. I was still feeding calmag only at one third strength. So I then went to half then full and still no change just a slow progression... Tonight going to try Epsom salts for mag and sulfur because all the pics I find seem similar to those. I however suspicious of my ph meter tonight I'm going to buy another one just to be sure
 

Newmmc

Well-Known Member
Most of the the room looks fine with only a few of theses leAves but there's one in particular that doesn't look so pretty I'm at week 4 in flower. I also forgot to mention I have red stems on all 3 strains
 

roorsmoker

Well-Known Member
I think "immobile" nutrients take a while to show improvement, someone correct me if I'm wrong. Keep an eye on new growth and flower sites. If it's a different strain, it could require more or less nutes compared to the others. Make sure you aren't feeding them all the exact same unless all clones (if possible). Sorry running late I'll check back later. Good luck!
 

Newmmc

Well-Known Member
I think "immobile" nutrients take a while to show improvement, someone correct me if I'm wrong. Keep an eye on new growth and flower sites. If it's a different strain, it could require more or less nutes compared to the others. Make sure you aren't feeding them all the exact same unless all clones (if possible). Sorry running late I'll check back later. Good luck!
 

Newmmc

Well-Known Member
So I grabbed a 90 dollar tester. Funds are low currently but it does the job. So I compared the two in my resivour and the old one rea 5.8. And the new one read 5.2. So I'm assuming that my issues have something to do with my ph being too low. My only question is this the new ph tester I bought says to calibrate at 7.0 then the other points as we'll. I only have a 4.0 calibration buffer or whatever the name. So my question in this ....Is calibrating at 4.0 alone efecient. Or should I go grab the 7.0 ???
 

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roorsmoker

Well-Known Member
Well in chem lab we always calibrated to two buffers. Usually 7.01 and 4.01 buffers. The 10.01 can be used instead of 4.01. Calibration is usually decent out of the box, as long as the probe hasn't dried out.
Also, make SURE you don't store the probe in distilled or RO water or dry. Cut a piece of sponge and put several drops of storage solution on it. Add more every month and calibrate with two buffers once a month.
 

Newmmc

Well-Known Member
Just grabbed the 7. Checked my new pen with 7 then 4 like instructions say. Everything's on point. Then checke my Rez I made with new pen and was still 5.8.... So then I put my old pen in and it read 6.8!!!! Wtf So every time I made my Rez to 5.8 it was really 4.8. So I'm assuming low ph causing was causing magnesium to not absorb correctly. Or something so starting last night there back on the right ph. So we'll see if my problem stops. I will continue to keep adding calmag just not as much.... Thank you for all the help and support. I'll update on Saturday wich will be week 5
 

roorsmoker

Well-Known Member
pH- 5.8, sounds great!

Your old meter's electrode is bad. Depending on the make/brand of your unit, you may be able to replace it and have two working meters. However, I would recommend a Blue Labs or Hanna non-pen-type unit if you plan on making this a big hobby :). That pen should be fine if you're just doing your own head stash grow. Just make sure to store it with storing solution.

But in my experience:The pen's are always finicky, and the electrode's usually cost half or more what the whole unit does. I used a pen for my first pH meter. Never getting one again. But it did last me a few years with calibration/storing it right. It's worth the extra money in the long run to get the portable, but non-pen pH units (for me).

I'm still trying to figure out which is better: Blue Labs or Hanna. The fact that Blue Labs made in USA is kind of a nice thing, but they are a bit pricey. But that's a different subject lol.
 

Newmmc

Well-Known Member
pH- 5.8, sounds great!

Your old meter's electrode is bad. Depending on the make/brand of your unit, you may be able to replace it and have two working meters. However, I would recommend a Blue Labs or Hanna non-pen-type unit if you plan on making this a big hobby :). That pen should be fine if you're just doing your own head stash grow. Just make sure to store it with storing solution.

But in my experience:The pen's are always finicky, and the electrode's usually cost half or more what the whole unit does. I used a pen for my first pH meter. Never getting one again. But it did last me a few years with calibration/storing it right. It's worth the extra money in the long run to get the portable, but non-pen pH units (for me).

I'm still trying to figure out which is better: Blue Labs or Hanna. The fact that Blue Labs made in USA is kind of a nice thing, but they are a bit pricey. But that's a different subject lol.
You ate 100% right this is the second time this happened the first time was a lot worse with completely different signs...

My father has a blue labs that sits in his resivour. Says ph and ppm and water temp I think. It's pretty cool. I'm going to put it on my list.
 

roorsmoker

Well-Known Member
I just ordered this: Bluelab Combo Meter (pH, conductivity, and temperature). not sure if it will link, but I can let you know if it's any good or not after I get it. I'm pretty picky, so I hope this is worth the money!
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003PD2N8Q/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

This was to replace my old Hanna HI98127 ph/TDS pen. I tried changing the electrode on the Hanna pen, but the new one read a 7.01 buffer as 10.01! now that's OFF! lol talk about pissed. I tried the 4.01 buffer (thinking the buffer soln could be labeled wrong) but the 4.01 buffer read as 7.01 . Luckily I realized it before I tried it on any girls. I will admit the Hanna pen lasted through some pretty rough conditions though.
 
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