PH dropping quickly, cant get away from 4.6

DirtyStrawHat

DirtyStrawHat

Active Member
update :

landlord approved


cost less than the brute fits amazing in a 3x3 and its an insulated cooler. 10 gallons of actual liquid volume and its a 15g rez, nice large square for the roots to expand.. I also drilled a 4" hole off center so i can access the rez without disturbing the stalk or roots.

mixing 3/4 distilled and 1/4 RO makes my solution after nutrients and great white a perfect 5.9 PH with NO buffer needed.. remo nutes for the win there so far.. hopefully the pH stays..
 
mangerton

mangerton

Member
Aqua Man said:
Read that link.. then read some more then hopefully you understand the difference I can't help stupid but I can help people willing to learn. So it's up to you.

If you know something I don't please feel free to share I'm always open to listen and make my share of mistakes also... But I try to learn from each and every one
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i find it entertaining when people think there is a difference between NPK and micro nutrients. its all the same shit. its just delivered to the plant in different ways. i also love when people plant in soil then feed with a liquid systematic feed completely by passing how soil works yet still say its an organic grow. at that point they are better off not using soil. i see little to no difference in the end product. i also enjoy when people ph the water before feeding in soil. if your soil is done correctly it should buffer it self. one more then that bugs me is when people use soil indoors and need to veg a plant for 3 months before its big enough to flip. ill have my grow clone to finish in that time and already starting my next run
 
bk78

bk78

Well-Known Member
mangerton said:
i find it entertaining when people think there is a difference between NPK and micro nutrients. its all the same shit. its just delivered to the plant in different ways. i also love when people plant in soil then feed with a liquid systematic feed completely by passing how soil works yet still say its an organic grow. at that point they are better off not using soil. i see little to no difference in the end product. i also enjoy when people ph the water before feeding in soil. if your soil is done correctly it should buffer it self. one more then that bugs me is when people use soil indoors and need to veg a plant for 3 months before its big enough to flip. ill have my grow clone to finish in that time and already starting my next run
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I find it entertaining that people who just 2 months ago thought plants cared about daylight savings time are trying to tell people how to grow now :D
 

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mangerton

mangerton

Member
bk78 said:
I find it entertaining that people who just 2 months ago thought plants cared about daylight savings time are trying to tell people how to grow now :D
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yeah i only started growing indoors. i know enough about growing in soil outdoor and have grow for the past 20 plus years .. outdoors. im sure the 1st time you grow indoors you didnt know everything about lights.
 
mangerton

mangerton

Member
bk78 said:
I find it entertaining that people who just 2 months ago thought plants cared about daylight savings time are trying to tell people how to grow now :D
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i find it entertaining that you took the time to go back 3 months and find an old post that i cant even re find on this form. just to comment and not even prove me to be incorrect.
 
DirtyStrawHat

DirtyStrawHat

Active Member
Update :

Ph is much more stable, but it creeps up overnight..

10g of water in rez, 4ML needed to drop a PH of 6.4 to 6.0, this is being done once a day.. (not too bad, great white always made ph rise)

I am allowing water temps to rise to 70 at max, than ill cool it back down to around 65 66, needed only once every 2 days due to cooler insulation, and i dont run a water chiller.

It is doing much better & has thickened noticeably

Getting ready for a defoliation, may put verticle support in tent to prevent sucking in when under suction so i can have more room!

Excited to see how this auto turns out

ArmageddonLetTheLightIn.jpg
 
G

Greennner

Well-Known Member
If i get it right , you have a 5galon reservoir ,
That is realy realy small,
I wouldnt never go under 25 Galon (ph stability and for water temp. )

And my easyest advice is to change your nutrients to Canna Aqua (that shit is super ph stabil)
 
DirtyStrawHat

DirtyStrawHat

Active Member
Greennner said:
If i get it right , you have a 5 galon reservoir ,
That is realy realy small,
I wouldnt never go under 25 Galon (ph stability and for water temp. )

And my easyest advice is to change your nutrients to Canna Aqua (that shit is super ph stabil)
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gotta read man, its a 15 Gallon** rez with 10g water, the difference is only because of the net pot hang down, the rez is also taller than a 25g tote, so i have more usable volume, i also need some floor space for clones, heater and circulation, so in a 3x3 a 25g tote wouldn't do me much good. i have a 20g tote i went to use but when i did the water level with the pot in, it only held 8 gallons, took up more space and also non insulated, 15g cooler was the win all day
 
DirtyStrawHat

DirtyStrawHat

Active Member
also i cant stand when totes have a design at the bottom. nutes settle and build up even with a circ pump, the cooler has a smooth bottom inside, no nooks or cranny's.. im sure the plants dont really care but i do. I may do a seperate thread on how i have it set up. I need a 4" rubber plug so i can make an airtight seal on the maintenance hole as its not rdwc20191221_205327.jpg

20191221_205350.jpg
 
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Greennner

Well-Known Member
DirtyStrawHat said:
gotta read man, its a 15 Gallon** rez with 10g water, the difference is only because of the net pot hang down, the rez is also taller than a 25g tote, so i have more usable volume, i also need some floor space for clones, heater and circulation, so in a 3x3 a 25g tote wouldn't do me much good. i have a 20g tote i went to use but when i did the water level with the pot in, it only held 8 gallons, took up more space and also non insulated, 15g cooler was the win all day
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Ok, 5 or 10 doesnt makes big dif. In my opinion.
Min. 25 galon of "water"
I grow on 3×3 myself with a 30gal."water" in my Tank under my plants.
And i have heard a lot of ph probleme with small tanks, i Think canna aqua has good buffer Agent in it.
And i wouldnt use ro water only, make it more difficult (ph stability)
 
DirtyStrawHat

DirtyStrawHat

Active Member
Greennner said:
Ok, 5 or 10 doesnt makes big dif. In my opinion.
Min. 25 galon of "water"
I grow on 3×3 myself with a 30gal."water" in my Tank under my plants.
And i have heard a lot of ph probleme with small tanks, i Think canna aqua has good buffer Agent in it.
And i wouldnt use ro water only, make it more difficult (ph stability)
Click to expand...
You got a pic to show the fitment?
 
DirtyStrawHat

DirtyStrawHat

Active Member
update : New rez Ph creeping upwards faster and faster each day.

ph moves to 6.5 and is put in check to 5.9-6 - 5ml ph down

ppm jumped from 850 to 1500 overnight, what could have caused this? ph solution? great white bacteria overpopulation? I tested my ph meter to make sure it was on point with a known solution, it seems to be on point.
 
mangerton

mangerton

Member
if my ph is going up i ph it back down. if my ph is going down i add add water to let the ph go back up

if my ppm is down i top off with a pre mix of nutrient and water to bring it back up. if my ppm is up ill top off with just water

its meant to change depending on what the plant is doing eg eating and drinking

ppm jumped from 850 to 1500 overnight, thats because your plant was only drinking water and left all the food behind . top up with just water

i much prefer keeping my plant @ around 500ppm. im surprised you don't have tip burn with that ppm. this could also be different make of ppm meter. its kind of a really shit way to discuss your nutrient concentration to other people that live all over the world as there meters probably use a different scale . this is why ec is king

i get people say keep your ph @ 5.8 -6 the entire grow in flower. i say fuk that let it swing unless its going passed 6.8 or low like 5.4 i sweat it. i think adjusting too much screws your plant over.

sure i may be new to growing indoors dwc but ive pulled off 5 grows with little to no problems. brow algal has been my only really issue once and that was because of light entering the res what was an ez fix

i dont use sterilization products unless i have no choice and even then i will only use it for 1 res change or until any funkiness is out the res then stop adding it

did you fix your root rot problem. you can try tell your self that its just stain but it isnt although if its not spread its probably dead

this is just my 2 cents i dont care if you want to criticize it or not. what works for me may not for others
 
DirtyStrawHat

DirtyStrawHat

Active Member
mangerton said:
if my ph is going up i ph it back down. if my ph is going down i add add water to let the ph go back up

if my ppm is down i top off with a pre mix of nutrient and water to bring it back up. if my ppm is up ill top off with just water

its meant to change depending on what the plant is doing eg eating and drinking

ppm jumped from 850 to 1500 overnight, thats because your plant was only drinking water and left all the food behind . top up with just water

i much prefer keeping my plant @ around 500ppm. im surprised you don't have tip burn with that ppm. this could also be different make of ppm meter. its kind of a really shit way to discuss your nutrient concentration to other people that live all over the world as there meters probably use a different scale . this is why ec is king

i get people say keep your ph @ 5.8 -6 the entire grow in flower. i say fuk that let it swing unless its going passed 6.8 or low like 5.4 i sweat it. i think adjusting too much screws your plant over.

sure i may be new to growing indoors dwc but ive pulled off 5 grows with little to no problems. brow algal has been my only really issue once and that was because of light entering the res what was an ez fix

i dont use sterilization products unless i have no choice and even then i will only use it for 1 res change or until any funkiness is out the res then stop adding it

did you fix your root rot problem. you can try tell your self that its just stain but it isnt although if its not spread its probably dead

this is just my 2 cents i dont care if you want to criticize it or not. what works for me may not for others
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i added a gallon of water before the end of the night yesterday, water level hasnt dropped much either i dont see how ppm could double if barley any water has been absorbed

roots look good, expanding in the new rez well.. color stayed looks stained, no slime no rot
 
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