Overfed or deficiency? Help needed with AF!! Pics!

Hi guys...

Despite of my first time growing cannabis, it was doing well so far... until now..

Checking several threads in here, found that my plants are autoflower. Just got the seeds from a `heavy` stuff I smoked. Unknown strain!

So, reading and reading and waiting for ph meters and thermometers arrive from hong kong...LOL... I decided to give some nuts to the plants.

Started with some 12-8-6 mixed in water and some micro on hearth. Weel done. Water every second day. The plants were growing 1cm/day. Lights were fine, just CFL but nearly 9.000 Lummes. Weel ventilated. All good.
Plants are 45 days old and with some hairs...2 fem and a male... I think.

Feeding again 2 weeks ago, decided to spray some foliar stuff (just N15) but giving every second day, just like I was doing before, with the water. Made half messure mixed with water.
So, water down, water up...I thought It was not that strong. Maybe I was wrong...

After watering 2 days ago (so just could see the diference today) the edges of some the leaves are curling downwards. PICS!!!! They look wilt. But the amazing thing is that some fan leaves are ok.

What could be the problem? I am growing in a box, with 2 PC coolers running all the time (in and out). Plants are 33 and 35 cm tall, 45 days old like I said.

The temperature is about 24C but Humidity around 65% (some times 60% some times 73%). Is that too bad!?!?

So also can it be lack of some nuts?

Thanks for your help! I NEED IT!!!

Any one!!!

Thanks!!!

Looks like over-watering to me. Let your soil dry out. Just because you watered the same frequency last time, that should not make a difference. Conditions always change. Check the soil... and stay away from the foliar spray if you do not know what you are doing. Can give mixed signals from you plants, and its sounds like you are using too much anyway. Go back to basics....good luck.

1 looks more sativa ..and the other more indica ..they may have diff nute needs...cuz your indi looks good and your sativa ...well.. you also want to make sure you dont lock the nutes out...peace

looks like its temps or ph too high or low..most likely a water problem of some sort. Its definetely a sign of stress. Not a difficiency or overnuting

overwatered..let that soil dry out more..

Looks overfed, but not too bad. Also 24C is good, maybe a touch on the low side, but should be fine. 60% is OK for humidity, but above that and you increase your risk of bud rot/mold.

Make sure you are giving at least one, maybe two water-only feedings between every feeding with nutrients. Your plants are doing fine, but a little goes long way. There's definitely a temptation to over-do it with nutrients, but less is more.

Also, I'd back off on the foliar spray or stop it completely. You don't want to saturate the buds with any moisture, as that increases the risk of mold, especially in a high-humidity environment.

Looking good though!

its a sal build up. too much nutes. i know this because the leaves are curling up. basically what you want to do is water the hell out of the soil and try to flush those salts out. good luck. i am positive that its salt build up, just so you know.

cell1988 said:

its a sal build up. too much nutes. i know this because the leaves are curling up. basically what you want to do is water the hell out of the soil and try to flush those salts out. good luck. i am positive that its salt build up, just so you know.

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I really dont know!!!

First of all... THANKS TO ALL OF YOU GUYS WHO ANSWERED THIS THREAD!!! THATS WHY I STILL HERE LEARNING FROM U!!!

Had problems with my PC. Sorry about writing this down just today!

About over feed with nuts, I am not sure... Actually I dont give to much nuts to the plants. I belive my mistake was feeding with that foliar shit... but must confess that the green was beautiful...hehe

The strange thing is that the other plants I have are not showing the same problem... so...maybe different strains like TKUFOS said... but the seeds came from the same `block` of weed! What nnow!?!?!

I should have water yesterday... but will give a couple of days more to dry it out... (FUREELZ) and stop the foliar and the next time just plain water... going to basics... thanks GITLAND for having your first post in here... appreciate!

Still waiting for that Ph meter to make sure all is under control... will check it later... good tip CLOSETFATHER ... sometimes the problem is facing u and u dont see it!

Another doubt is concerning the pre flower fase... or flowering fase... should I keep this 12/12 cyclo and ad some flower nuts ( I understood the less is more... thanks JERRY..hehe)?

Having for the first time this AF plants looks easy but all readings are about other strains.

Have some more PICS!! The plant #1 is the oldest, 50 days... I think she is he and worst of that... not sure if its a Hermi... has 40 cm. PLant #2 has the same age but is shorter ( 31 cm) and she is definitely she another closeup.
Plant #3 is 32cm tall and 45 days old. She is the one with problems...

Did I give some more information to find what it is!??!?!?

Thanks AGAIN!!!

Anyone!!
The small plant still has that problem!!!

Any advice!?!?

Thanks!

just curious, are you keeping that male?

TheDifferenceX said:

just curious, are you keeping that male?

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good question, mate! Was waiting to make sure the male bags were realy male bags... but for my surprise... some hair appered on top!! Will post some pics... but now I think its a hermi..LOL... amazing experience for a First time grower...

Does any one know what is the problem with that plant?!?!?

Thanks

if ph is correct and they aren't over watered- i'd lay off of the foliar cocktail and ease up on the nutes and see how she reacts. Myabe just give her a spray of clean distilled water to clear leaf stomata.

Maybe a root bound issue?

oasis515 said:

if ph is correct and they aren't over watered- i'd lay off of the foliar cocktail and ease up on the nutes and see how she reacts. Myabe just give her a spray of clean distilled water to clear leaf stomata.

Maybe a root bound issue?

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U maybe right, mate. The humidity is getting very high and temperature as well: 26.6C and 69%.

Gonna give less water today and see how it react.

Thanks

test run off ph after u water, and check ec from run off. stop foliar feeding bring humidity to 55. ec should not be over 1.5 or 1000 ppm for that size of plant around that range give or take a point or 100 ppm and ur ph should be around 6 on the run off 6.3ish going in. If you got tat all good then ur either over watering or underwatering or both, get soil moisture tester and water once the meter says medium so not dry not wet.

if your not using filtered water id let you water res stover night as chlorine can sometimes stress a plant out.

You can water with H202 to get rid of the root rot. Get that plant out of the heat. I had some Mother's in a small hut and a few looked identical to yours. I had overwatered and my 400W HPS was too much for my small hut. My temp guage said it was also only in the 70's, but the space was just too small. Switched to 250W, watered with J202, and now they've recovered! Good luck!

labrat1 said:

You can water with H202 to get rid of the root rot. Get that plant out of the heat. I had some Mother's in a small hut and a few looked identical to yours. I had overwatered and my 400W HPS was too much for my small hut. My temp guage said it was also only in the 70's, but the space was just too small. Switched to 250W, watered with J202, and now they've recovered! Good luck!

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Thaks to u, Labrat1... some good info is extremely important!!

1. How do I bring the humidity down without bringing the temp up?!?! This area here is fucking wet.

2. How do I use H202!?!?! What amount and %? Should I flush with this?


Thanks!

hectorius said:

test run off ph after u water, and check ec from run off. stop foliar feeding bring humidity to 55. ec should not be over 1.5 or 1000 ppm for that size of plant around that range give or take a point or 100 ppm and ur ph should be around 6 on the run off 6.3ish going in. If you got tat all good then ur either over watering or underwatering or both, get soil moisture tester and water once the meter says medium so not dry not wet.

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Thanks... but I'm worried about humidity... how do I solve this!?!?!
Still waiting for ph/moisture testers but shouldn't I care about basics... the temp and moist is to high in here... how do I fix this shit?!?!

Thanks again

labrat1 said:

You can water with H202 to get rid of the root rot. .....!

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Man... following your advide... made a quick reserch about this topic and found it very important... here's some more lines about it...

_______

Hydrogen Peroxide and Horticulture
By Bryce Fredrickson



Hydrogen Peroxide (H2O2) is a clear sharp smelling substance very similar in appearance to water (H2O). Like water it is made up of Hydrogen (H2) and Oxygen (O2), however H2O2 has an extra Oxygen atom in an unstable arrangement. It is this extra atom that gives H2O2 its useful properties. H2O2 has been used for many purposes including cleaning, bleaching, sterilizing, rocket fuel, animal feed treatment and in addition many miraculous claims about its health benefits have been made. This article isn't about any of these; instead it will concentrate on horticultural applications. H2O2 is of great use for both hydroponics and dirt/soilless gardening.

What Does Hydrogen Peroxide do?
H2O2 is an unstable molecule, when it breaks down a single oxygen atom and a molecule of water is released. This oxygen atom is extremely reactive and will attach itself to either another O- atom forming a stable Oxygen molecule or attack a nearby organic molecule. Both the stable and O- forms will increase the level of dissolved oxygen. This is the method by which H2O2 is beneficial. Pre treating the water supply with H2O2will drive out the Chlorine many cities use to sterilize it. This will also degrade any pesticides or herbicides that might be present as well as any other organic matter. Well water can be high in methane and organic sulfates, both of which H2O2 will remove. Many disease causing organisms and spores are killed by Oxygen, the free Oxygen H2O2 releases is extremely effective at this. H2O2 will help eliminate existing infections and will help prevent future ones. It is also useful for suppressing algae growth. The free Oxygen atom will destroy dead organic material (i.e, leaves roots) in the system preventing them from rotting and spreading diseases.

Over Watering
Roots require Oxygen to breathe and low levels are the main cause of almost all root diseases. Both soil and hydroponic plants often fall prey to the same syndrome although it is rarely recognized as what it really is. Hydroponic crops often fail due to "root rot" and soil crops succumb to "over watering." The real cause of both these problems is a shortage of Oxygen at the root zone. In a soil system the soil consists of particles, a film of water on the particles and air spaces between the particles. When too much water is put into the soil the air spaces fill with liquid. The roots will quickly use up what Oxygen is dissolved in the water, if they haven't drunk enough of the liquid to allow air back in to the soil spaces they will stop working. In this situation roots will start dying within twenty-four hours. As the roots die the plants ability to drink water and nutrients will decrease, this will cause symptoms of nutrient deficiencies (mostly pale, slow, weak growth), and strangely they will start to wilt like they don't have enough water. It is easy to make a fatal mistake at this point and add more water.

In a Hydroponic system the cause is a more direct simple lack of oxygen in the solution; this may be from inadequate circulation and/or aeration. High reservoir temperatures also interfere with Oxygen's ability to dissolve in the water. Temperatures above 70F (20C) will eventually cause problems, 62F-65F (16C-18C) is recommended. The same symptoms will appear as with soil plants but you can also check the roots. Healthy roots should be mostly white with maybe a slight yellowish tan tinge. If they are a brownish color with dead tips or they easily pull away there is at least the beginning of a serious problem. An organic, ‘dirt like’ rotting smell means there is already a very good chance it is too late. As roots die and rot they eat Oxygen out of the water, as Oxygen levels are even further depleted more roots die, a viscous circle may be well under way. Reduced Oxygen levels and high temperatures both encourage anaerobic bacteria and fungi. The plants may still be saved but you will have to work fast.

How Hydrogen Peroxide prevents root rot/over watering.
When plants are watered with H2O2 it will break down and release Oxygen into the area around the roots. This helps stop the Oxygen from being depleted in the water filled air spaces until air can get back into them. High Oxygen levels at the roots will encourage rapid healthy root growth. In a Hydroponic system H2O2 will disperse through out the system and raise Oxygen levels as it breaks down. Strong white healthy roots with lots of fuzzy new growth will be visible. This fuzzy growth has massive surface area allowing for rapid absorption of the huge amounts of water and nutrients needed for rapid top growth. A healthy plant starts with a healthy root system.

How to use it.
H2O2 comes in several different strengths 3%, 5%, 8% and 35%, also sold as food grade Hydrogen Peroxide. The most economical is 35% which we recommend be diluted to three percent before using, as at this high concentration it can cause damage to skin and clothing. When working with food grade H2O2 it is very important that you clean up any spills or splashes immediately, it will damage almost anything very quickly. This is extra important with skin and clothing. Skin will be temporarily bleached pure white if not washed cleaned. Gloves are strongly recommended when working with any strong chemical.

Food grade H2O2 can be diluted to three percent by mixing it one part to eleven parts water (preferably distilled). The storage container should be opaque to prevent light from getting in and it must be able to hold some pressure. If three-liter pop bottles are available in your area they are ideal for mixing and storing H2O2. There are twelve quarter liters (250ml) in three liters, if you put in one quarter liter H2O2 and eleven quarter liters (250ml) water in the bottle it will full of three percent H2O2 and the bottle can hold the pressure that the H2O2 will generate. Three percent Hydrogen Peroxide may be added at up to three ml's per liter (2 1\2 tsp. Per gallon), but it is recommended that you start at a lower concentration and increase to full strength over a few weeks. Use every watering even on fresh cuttings. For hydroponics use every reservoir change and replace twenty-five percent (one quarter) every day. Example: In a 100L reservoir you would add three hundred ml's (3%) H2O2when changing the nutrient. You would then add seventy-five ml's more every day.

Where to get it.
35% food grade: called food grade because it has no toxic impurities. Of course your local hydroponics retailer, whom you can locate over the web.(there may be shipping restrictions on high strength peroxides). The local feed supplier may have it in small towns. Prices range from fifteen dollars per quarter liter to eighty dollars a gallon. One gallon will treat up to fifty thousand liters of water.

3%5%, 8% Can be found at most drugstores or pharmacies, prices start at a less than a dollar for a one hundred-ml bottle that will treat one hundred liters.

What to do if you already have root rot.

In Dirt:
Use peroxide water with an anti-fungicide and a high Phosphate fertilizer (9-45-15, 10-52-10, 0-60-0) for root growth. Or any other product with rooting hormone dissolved in it is helpful in regrowing roots and is strongly recommended. Water heavily until liquid pours out the bottom of the pot. This sound like bad idea, but it flushes out stagnant dead water and replaces it with fresh highly oxygenated water. Don't let plants sit in trays full of water, the soil will absorb this water and stay too wet. Don't water again until the pot feels light and the top inch or two of the soil are dry.

In Hydro:
Change your nutrients. Add H2O2 to the system. This will add oxygen and chemically eat dead roots. If roots are badly rotted and can be pulled away by hand you should pull them off. They are already dead and will only rot, causing further problems. Add a fungicide to kill any fungus that is probably present in the rotted tissue to prevent it from spreading. Increase aeration of the water, get an air pump and air stones, or more of them, for the reservoir. An air stone under every plant is usually very effective, but will require a larger air pump. Models that will do from forty to four hundred stones are available. Decrease the reservoir temperature, oxygen dissolves better in cold water and disease causing organisms reproduce slower as well. A good temperate range is 62F to 65F; anything above 70F will eventually cause a problem. It is also a good idea to remove any wilty plants from the system and put them on a separate reservoir so they don't infect plants that are still healthy.

Summary
The key to big productive plants is a big healthy root system and Hydrogen Peroxide is a great way to keep your roots healthy. It is a must to ensure the biggest best crops possible and to increase the chances of your plants thriving to harvest. Peroxide users will rarely lose plants or crops to root disease and will harvest larger and more consistent crops.