Only experienced master growers please.

U

Uniqueturk90

Well-Known Member
As an experienced grower, I'm curious to find out what other experienced growers are using nowadays and what is your best advice for newbies.

What nutes do you use and why? include cost, why do you use them?
Do you bubble your water if so.... how long and why?
When do you PH how do you keep it stable?
Is your water hard or soft?
Do you use RO filter?
What room temps/water temps and humidity do you consider optimum.
What strain is it? is the strain important or conditions?
What advice would you give to a new grower to help avoid problems?

Please give feedback on how much grams per watt you achieve what system and veg time.

Thank you in advance I'm sure this thread will help a lot of people.

Give thanks and praise nuff love to everyone and happy growing ;)
 
Renfro

Renfro

Well-Known Member
What nutes do you use and why? include cost, why do you use them? I use GH Three Pars, changing over to Jacks (mega savings). A run costs me about 978 bucks with GH and will cost around 60 with Jacks.

Do you bubble your water if so.... how long and why? No, I use RO water, I use a pump to mix, air stones mess with the pH.

When do you PH how do you keep it stable? I pH as I use the nutrients, not the whole mix because it will likely need another adjustment when I go back to it in a day or two.

Is your water hard or soft? 240 PPM tap, 4 - 5 PPM after RO filter.

Do you use RO filter? Yes, went to RO and never will go back to tap. Too many variables, Calcium, Magnesium, Iron...

What room temps/water temps and humidity do you consider optimum. I run CO2 so I like a canopy temp of 90F so the plants can metabolize faster. I run 65 percent humidity in veg and bring it down to 45 - 50% when buds start to form.

What strain is it? is the strain important or conditions? Gorilla Glue, Stardawg, Do Si Do. Some strains need a little different feed but most like what I am mixing. Rare that I have to change it for a strain. Then the strain usually goes as that's too much extra bullshit lol. Another mix tank and such.

What advice would you give to a new grower to help avoid problems? Don't overfeed. Use the proper pH for your method of growing. Don't buy cheap stuff. Get good genetics.

Please give feedback on how much grams per watt you achieve what system and veg time. Always over a gram per watt with HPS. Working with some CMH and LED, sure the grams per watt will go up and yields per sqft will be about the same but testing will prove that in time. Yield per sqft is a good way to track things because different lighting techs use different watts per sqft.
 
Renfro

Renfro

Well-Known Member
eddysteady said:
Only a noob would use the term "Master Grower".
Click to expand...
I only met one "master grower" in my life. He would chuck a seed in some dirt from his yard, put a flash light on it and the next day he had about a pound. lol

Always keep learning. Not knowing what you don't know is a symptom of someone with a closed mind. It's always hard to filter out the garbage where newbs keep spouting what they have read with little or no practical experience to back it up. So I see why someone would want an "experienced grower" to answer questions, and the more experienced growers the better. Nobody knows it all, ever.
 
Covetsculitvars

Covetsculitvars

Well-Known Member
KEEP SHIT SIMPLE! Life is hard enough!
https://www.vermontcompost.com/products/fort-light-compost-based-potting-soil/

Use a fort light or a fort vee, 20 quarts per plant and I plant them right into the burlap containers the mix comes in! It's available on Amazon as well gents! You may wanna add alittle more airation to the mix if that's your style. Can't go wrong with these ....I've used them for five years now! I'll NEVER go anywhere else! If it ain't broke, ya don't fix it!
Just need to little bag of compost plus to do feedings with! Either a top dress, a tea or chucked in like anything else! 20 bucks a bag for trouble free growing!
My local water does not contain chloramines ...they add chlorine which gasses off in24-48 hours.....if u don't have access to decent tap water, I'd use a reg Spring water that's been Ph.D. Ph of 7 has Always been good to me, 70-80 degrees for most cultivars, I enjoy letting some get down to low 60's tho. It's a bioacumulator ......u don't wanna be throwing a bunch of chit into your medium that you may end up smoking! I hope u enjoy your time in the dirt!
 
WingAK

WingAK

Well-Known Member
I grow in aurora phlora living soil,
Throughout veg I feed the soil with buffaloam 1-1-1 tea,
When in flower in week 4 I hit it with two tablespoons of langbeinite 0-0-22,
I do not ph my water because it’s not necessary in a good soil,
I do bubble my water only to keep it from getting stale.
And every week throughout my grow I use sfl-100 to clean the roots.

The best advice I ever received is do not use cheap lights most problems new growers face is cheap lighting!
 
Dr. Who

Dr. Who

Well-Known Member
Uniqueturk90 said:
Please give feedback on how much grams per watt you achieve what system and veg time.
Click to expand...
This question is dumb.

GPW is meaningless!

Novice growers who know how to SOG. Using the right strain. Can produce over 3 and 4 GPW ......

In soil
Use a 5x5 tent. (can be done in a 4x4)
A 600K hps
64 plants in 1 gallon plant warrior pots
Flip at about 8 inch's
call it a 32 gram per plant average.

3.41 GPW average

In hydro
In a self contained 2x2 ebb
Rockwool 4" cube = 35 plants
250w hps
Flip at 6-8 inch's

Same 32 g per plant average

4.48 GPW

KEYS:
The right strain (I used G-13 from greenthumb)
DIALED IN
patience

Nutrient was a modified HESI line. Each of them was either the soil or the hydro line.
Dropped the SuperVit and ROOTS and replaced with an organic kelp extract.

Soil runs got AACT once every 3 weeks.

Minor Mg and K sulfate supplement with a little carb kicker to keep soil bio's running strong,

Hydro did get Si supplement, along with the same Mg&K sulfate supplement used above.

Others answers would be ,,,,,

I run mostly home built SS formula's
Only supplementation is done by visual needs...(Plant tells me what it wants)

Some synthetic is still done
Botanicare KIND line used.
This is a stupidly easy line to use. It is completely adjustable to strain needs.
I do use home made MG&K sulfate supplementation when synthetics are used.
Minor micro manipulation for potency...

Amounts and times are critical to chase strain potentials..

patient dialing in, is needed.


RO is used in everything but making AACT.

i only adjust pH in solutions if the pH is over 1.3 to 1.5 points either way. Soil self pH's

RO is bubbled to keep dissolved o2 high, and to prevent any bacteria bloom.

Presently strain testing so there are a lot running...

I like to keep my canopy around the high 70's to lower 80's.
The mid plant temps are around 73
Root zone is about 68
RH of 45 (that is where feeding is dialed into, RH wise) It helps control any chance of PM.

Strain is not "important" to conditions.... It is important to dial in the feeding to the strains needs for the conditions!
 
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