samljer
Well-Known Member
Hey all, long time prowler, new time member 
Have a bit of an oddity here, unsure how to solve it. heres my grow box specs.
2 feet 4 inch long/wide
2 feet high/tall
1 feet 5 inches deep/depth
For all intents and purposes, after you take into account the light traps, fixtures etc, theres 4 square feet of AIR space, which is more important then actual space because of fan CFM.
I was told that you should have a total air cycle of about 3 to 5 times per minute, since my growbox is 4 ft/squred, cycling that 5 times per minute i would need 4x5 = 20 cfm, being generous I have 2 12v PC fans with a CFM rating of 60 in there. so, every 20 seconds, the air should be fully cycled, to my understanding. Correct me if im wrong.
Now heres the box specs (Design)
It is a cabinate with 2 sliding doors, the cabinate is fully light and air proof, with the exception of the fans.
The top left of the box has a 60 CFM exhaust, inside the light trap i put a bean bag filled with activated carbon, and it works. Air can flow around it too, 2CM on all sides, so it does not empede air flow.
On the top right of the box, i have a 60 CFM intake fan on a light trap with no filtration, so free flowing air..
The cabinate, standing 2 feet tall is factory white. So NO reflective materials was used, at all. its a flat white already.
which i felt was good enough for my 3 plant plans.
For lighting i have non-adjutable height. 3 figtures, spaced equally, screwed to the back wall so the bulbs are situated front to back evenly "Ill use something to prop the plants up, rather then adjust the lights down. ill choose something with a hollow interior, so the cubic air in the box will remain unchanged. like a metal rack" maybe wood i can hammer one together.
The 3 lights are 120v CFL.
All 3 are 2700k color, i wont be using 6500 to flower.
the left one is a 1700 lumen
the middle one is a 2700 lumen
and the right one is 1700 lumen.
6100 lumen "3050 sq/ft" which is enough
I cant go higher yet, youll find out why in a second. The total wattage for the 3 bulbs is 110-120 watts of energy.
They are of coursed, self ballased "cfl ;p"
2 Feet away from the box, in the front. clear and away from any exhaust
AMBIANCE: 25.5*C / 77.9*F 18%RH (omfg!)
INTERNAL BOX fans on: 29.7*C / 85.5*F 18%RH (Temperature spikes ive seen in the 31*C area (about 91*F))
INTERNAL BOX night drops to ambiant 25*C in about 30mins-45mins (fans go off when the lights do)
daytime with fans off 32*C RH unchanged
Afterwatering RH has been seen as high as 80%, im going to have to leave the door open after watering for an hour or two.
Now im stumped here, because ive just increased the fan capacity +20CFM each and increased the voltage from 12 to 15 "Increased the RPM by 2500" and the temperature is down by 0.3*F"
I know I can grow in this box, ill have to water a helluva lot more then usual and watch them like a hawk. But id rather not have to, is there something im missing?
Sorry for long post but i felt in required to get a solid response.

Have a bit of an oddity here, unsure how to solve it. heres my grow box specs.
2 feet 4 inch long/wide
2 feet high/tall
1 feet 5 inches deep/depth
For all intents and purposes, after you take into account the light traps, fixtures etc, theres 4 square feet of AIR space, which is more important then actual space because of fan CFM.
I was told that you should have a total air cycle of about 3 to 5 times per minute, since my growbox is 4 ft/squred, cycling that 5 times per minute i would need 4x5 = 20 cfm, being generous I have 2 12v PC fans with a CFM rating of 60 in there. so, every 20 seconds, the air should be fully cycled, to my understanding. Correct me if im wrong.
Now heres the box specs (Design)
It is a cabinate with 2 sliding doors, the cabinate is fully light and air proof, with the exception of the fans.
The top left of the box has a 60 CFM exhaust, inside the light trap i put a bean bag filled with activated carbon, and it works. Air can flow around it too, 2CM on all sides, so it does not empede air flow.
On the top right of the box, i have a 60 CFM intake fan on a light trap with no filtration, so free flowing air..
The cabinate, standing 2 feet tall is factory white. So NO reflective materials was used, at all. its a flat white already.
which i felt was good enough for my 3 plant plans.
For lighting i have non-adjutable height. 3 figtures, spaced equally, screwed to the back wall so the bulbs are situated front to back evenly "Ill use something to prop the plants up, rather then adjust the lights down. ill choose something with a hollow interior, so the cubic air in the box will remain unchanged. like a metal rack" maybe wood i can hammer one together.
The 3 lights are 120v CFL.
All 3 are 2700k color, i wont be using 6500 to flower.
the left one is a 1700 lumen
the middle one is a 2700 lumen
and the right one is 1700 lumen.
6100 lumen "3050 sq/ft" which is enough
I cant go higher yet, youll find out why in a second. The total wattage for the 3 bulbs is 110-120 watts of energy.
They are of coursed, self ballased "cfl ;p"
2 Feet away from the box, in the front. clear and away from any exhaust
AMBIANCE: 25.5*C / 77.9*F 18%RH (omfg!)
INTERNAL BOX fans on: 29.7*C / 85.5*F 18%RH (Temperature spikes ive seen in the 31*C area (about 91*F))
INTERNAL BOX night drops to ambiant 25*C in about 30mins-45mins (fans go off when the lights do)
daytime with fans off 32*C RH unchanged
Afterwatering RH has been seen as high as 80%, im going to have to leave the door open after watering for an hour or two.
Now im stumped here, because ive just increased the fan capacity +20CFM each and increased the voltage from 12 to 15 "Increased the RPM by 2500" and the temperature is down by 0.3*F"
I know I can grow in this box, ill have to water a helluva lot more then usual and watch them like a hawk. But id rather not have to, is there something im missing?
Sorry for long post but i felt in required to get a solid response.