Nuts think I messed up my first grow. Opinions please

Zarg said:

im not doing auto strains but am using LEDs for my first medical grow. (not first grow but alot of firsts with this one) only about 6 weeks from seed but its great information hearing things can be easy over done, im already using a highly diluted nute mix for my larger plants, seeing a tiny yellowing on the lower leaves but no real sign of heavy burn. ive heard more general soil has less drainage, so i would assume that it would be all to easy to overwater knowing that about the soil and LED pannels. mine are not that high watt but im using 3 larger spread ones.

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Jypsy Dog said:

I will look at that strain, thanks. Dinafem has some GREAT genetics. Try their Original Amnesia if you come across it. Nice yields and a joy to grow. https://www.dinafem.org/en/original-amnesia-autoflowering/

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Jypsy Dog said:

Yellowing on lower usually means your going into a deficiency. Adding more perlite or coco will loosen up a tight soil mix.

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Roger A. Shrubber said:

actually, i recommend against adding coco to soil. soil has its ph level, and coco has its own, that is between soil and hydro, and while a pot of coco has excellent aeration properties, once you mix it in soil, it can't draw air in like it does on its own, and just becomes something to hold water.

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Jypsy Dog said:

Never seen a pH issue using it in my mix for my Peppers.. Dinafem recommends mixing coco soil for there seeds. Have to look further into it.

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• This fibrous material is low-acid with a pH range of 5.8-6.8
• When dry, it soaks up water eagerly, so it helps plants recover quickly from dry conditions and makes good use of available water.
• Absorbs ten times its weight in water, so it keeps roots well hydrated and provides an excellent growing medium for healthy development of roots.
• Coir is not pest friendly. Creepy-crawlies generally dislike coming in contact with it, so it makes a good addition to your pest control arsenal.
• May provide some protection against root diseases such as pythium.
• Coir conveys excellent air porosity to soil even when wet.
• Coir decomposes slowly, so it lasts for a long time in soil.
• It improves water retention in soils that drain too quickly.
• Coir is free of bacteria.

• When using coir as a soil amendment, you may find that your plants are lacking some essential nutrients (e.g. magnesium and calcium) so you will need to amend accordingly.
• Coir is lacking in calcium; however, you should not make up for this with lime because coir has a neutral pH level.
• Coir is generally lacking in nutrients; although, it does have some micronutrients and a bit of potassium.
• Increased water retention may add up to a build up of salt and minerals.
• Initial hydration can be a chore and a challenge.

Viridios said:

I did some research and found this scientific site for plants which had this useful info:

Coconut Coir Benefits

• This fibrous material is low-acid with a pH range of 5.8-6.8
• When dry, it soaks up water eagerly, so it helps plants recover quickly from dry conditions and makes good use of available water.
• Absorbs ten times its weight in water, so it keeps roots well hydrated and provides an excellent growing medium for healthy development of roots.
• Coir is not pest friendly. Creepy-crawlies generally dislike coming in contact with it, so it makes a good addition to your pest control arsenal.
• May provide some protection against root diseases such as pythium.
• Coir conveys excellent air porosity to soil even when wet.
• Coir decomposes slowly, so it lasts for a long time in soil.
• It improves water retention in soils that drain too quickly.
• Coir is free of bacteria.

Downsides Of Coconut Coir

• When using coir as a soil amendment, you may find that your plants are lacking some essential nutrients (e.g. magnesium and calcium) so you will need to amend accordingly.
• Coir is lacking in calcium; however, you should not make up for this with lime because coir has a neutral pH level.
• Coir is generally lacking in nutrients; although, it does have some micronutrients and a bit of potassium.
• Increased water retention may add up to a build up of salt and minerals.
• Initial hydration can be a chore and a challenge.

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Jypsy Dog said:

Even the "down sides" can't make ya bitch.

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Roger A. Shrubber said:

i tried it one time, and had a constant fight with ph issues. that problem is what led me to using hempy buckets, and the results were so dramatically better that i never looked back.

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Roger A. Shrubber said:

look pretty close but i think i'd wait for a few more of those white pistils to turn

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Jypsy Dog said:

Week, maybe Three.

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Roger A. Shrubber said:

its more than one thing for me. the biggest is the state of the trichs, then have the buds hardened up, have they done their swell? are most of the pistils curling up and changing color? all plants are different, even plants from the same batch of seeds will grow differently, so you have to look at all those things, and decide when to call it.
all those white pistils that late into flower usually mean its in the act of swelling, and i'd give it at least a week, probly more like 2, to finish up, i bet you'll notice they're getting harder and fatter if you watch them for the next week

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Dabber68 said:

Bro those are gonna be some good smoke look great cant wait to see harvest

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