Nutrients for soil grows

Would like to start a thread,for Nutrients in soil grows.

Brands used, and amount used and so forth.
and pics of results.

Thank you.
Beech
Strain~ Hindu Kush (Clone)
Soil~ Big Rootz Soil
Vegged only a short periods of time before flipping (rookie mistake)
Flowering 28days
-GH Flora Series (followed the feed chart on the bottles)
Add 1IMG_20180528_142217.jpg IMG_20180528_142213.jpg tsp Cal Mag to Flora Series when feedings nutrient
 

cogitech

Well-Known Member
Strain~ White Widow
Soil~ ProMix HP + Perlite + EWC + Dolomite lime
Vegged 4 weeks
Flowering 35days so far
-General Organics GO Box (basically followed the feed chart on the box, epsom salts added during flowering stage)

20180614_073004.jpg
 

cosmonautking

Active Member
i highly recomend nectar for the gods. its mostly for the smaller grower but larger ops can be achieved but its takes alot more work, simply because you cant really automate it. i also recommend working with it in small amounts before you take a large leap on your whole crop aminos keep it green really long, and alot of people accidentally give n in bloom and it stays green. it takes a bit of time to get use to, simply because all water and soil is different. but once you get the hang of it, it is seriously heaven sent. i can get full nodes almost each day. and combined with light training. you can pretty much make the nodes any space you want. i never get nute burn and it simply just makes sense and is very educational along the way. they say soil drench for height. and use foliar to add nodes and help close spacing.
medusas magic (n)
gaia mania (n)
athenas aminas (amino acid)
demeters destiny (calcium and ties up and piggybacks remaining n)
Aphrodites extraction (carbon)
herculean harvest ( fishbone meal p, k, and ties up everything but n)
zeus juice (i dont really know to be honest)
bloom chaos (kelp extract)
mammoth p (microbial aid)
to be honest it all pretty much revolves around the mammoth p and the additional microbes you get from a few of the nftg products, scott the owner says which ones have microbes in one of their videos but i cant remember at the moment. but using a calcium line vs a salt line has impressed me. moving to microbe and soil culture vs plant culture. as it seems like most of the time we flood our medium with nutrients that 40% (rando number) of the time just arent being used by the plant. and we have to flush it out and throw it away, when in all reality we need to rebuild and treat the microbe populations that eat, break down and make nutrients actively available to plants. as scott says... these particles might seem small to us but to bacteria and roots, they are boulders... and boulders take time to eat.... and sometimes we and our plants just dont have that time. thus increasing culture and species and using a better process to make your nutrients, allows your nutrients to be more available to the plant.... i cant really say how much i use because it varies every time, id say stick to one of the schedules EXCEPT cut out medusa and gaia on your first week of bloom and cut athenas on your third week of bloom. or they will stay green till the end.... demeters will tie up and piggy back excessive nitrogen if you burn or get toxicity. and herculean harvest piggy backs everything else, and adds lots of carbohydrates for bloom. if you use coir the natural breakdown of your coir will supply your magnesium and if you need it just sprinkle some epsom salt in your water till it goes away. ( i used a tsp in 4 gallons twice)
to wrap up my ramblings... i feel its an amazing line that allows me to stretch early on and close the nodes when i want to, for very even scrogs, wile keeping the plant very strong. and doing the hole process very fast. while not sacrificing and even gaining quality.... they say they arent for yield size but for flavor and looks. but i feel they yield better by allowing faster and more efficient training.
 
i highly recomend nectar for the gods. its mostly for the smaller grower but larger ops can be achieved but its takes alot more work, simply because you cant really automate it. i also recommend working with it in small amounts before you take a large leap on your whole crop aminos keep it green really long, and alot of people accidentally give n in bloom and it stays green. it takes a bit of time to get use to, simply because all water and soil is different. but once you get the hang of it, it is seriously heaven sent. i can get full nodes almost each day. and combined with light training. you can pretty much make the nodes any space you want. i never get nute burn and it simply just makes sense and is very educational along the way. they say soil drench for height. and use foliar to add nodes and help close spacing.
medusas magic (n)
gaia mania (n)
athenas aminas (amino acid)
demeters destiny (calcium and ties up and piggybacks remaining n)
Aphrodites extraction (carbon)
herculean harvest ( fishbone meal p, k, and ties up everything but n)
zeus juice (i dont really know to be honest)
bloom chaos (kelp extract)
mammoth p (microbial aid)
to be honest it all pretty much revolves around the mammoth p and the additional microbes you get from a few of the nftg products, scott the owner says which ones have microbes in one of their videos but i cant remember at the moment. but using a calcium line vs a salt line has impressed me. moving to microbe and soil culture vs plant culture. as it seems like most of the time we flood our medium with nutrients that 40% (rando number) of the time just arent being used by the plant. and we have to flush it out and throw it away, when in all reality we need to rebuild and treat the microbe populations that eat, break down and make nutrients actively available to plants. as scott says... these particles might seem small to us but to bacteria and roots, they are boulders... and boulders take time to eat.... and sometimes we and our plants just dont have that time. thus increasing culture and species and using a better process to make your nutrients, allows your nutrients to be more available to the plant.... i cant really say how much i use because it varies every time, id say stick to one of the schedules EXCEPT cut out medusa and gaia on your first week of bloom and cut athenas on your third week of bloom. or they will stay green till the end.... demeters will tie up and piggy back excessive nitrogen if you burn or get toxicity. and herculean harvest piggy backs everything else, and adds lots of carbohydrates for bloom. if you use coir the natural breakdown of your coir will supply your magnesium and if you need it just sprinkle some epsom salt in your water till it goes away. ( i used a tsp in 4 gallons twice)
to wrap up my ramblings... i feel its an amazing line that allows me to stretch early on and close the nodes when i want to, for very even scrogs, wile keeping the plant very strong. and doing the hole process very fast. while not sacrificing and even gaining quality.... they say they arent for yield size but for flavor and looks. but i feel they yield better by allowing faster and more efficient training.
Thankyou for ur advice really appreciate it ill keep u informed
 

cosmonautking

Active Member
but it honestly depends on how many you want to do. and twords your soil vs water question. get a ro system it will save your mind and back in both applications hahahah. i personally grow in coco. its easy neutral well draining and a source of nutrients in its own. i tried rdwc and i enjoyed it but in all it was more work than coco, nftg doesnt work in hydro and i dont get the results i got from nftg, from botanicare or advanced. and i felt i jostled the plants more often. and kind of like rodents it seems like problems slam on you out of no where vs creeping up. but im biased because i was intoxicated by microbial culture. and driven twords a cheaper way of things ( but harder to start) most hydro growers i know dont feel comfortable going on vacation for more than a day or two and they've been doing it for years. i use an infinity tray and sometimes it will stay peachy for a week. and sometimes in two days it smells funny. iv had mold try to grow on a clone.... if i didnt catch it it would have killed 30 clones hahahah with hydro, people put in peroxide and kill all the mycorrihzae they just spent 50 dollars on. or the 45 dollars you just spent on mammoth p.
if you are doing something smaller than 4x4 sections id do nftg in coco. anything larger, id do botanicare or advanced nutrients in an automated system. if you peek at the bottom pic, i just use a 2x4 frame on some concrete blocks with poly stretched across the bottom and the 5 dollar wire shelves from home depot. and ill just hit the top with a sprinkler. but you could easily just add a res and pump with drip lines and do advanced or botanicare. and all you would have to do is hit the pump and empty the drain tray underneath.
 

cdweiser

Member
33333333.jpg 33333333.jpg this is my second run inside first one was a learning expierence that is for sure! but dont give up read read and read, round 2 I learned lighting is a major part of yield Nutrients at the proper time and PH will stop all growth. So I just finished week 3 of flowering.
1. Vegative growth: I used Miracle grow stand grow food and used a chemical called Super thrive. I let the plant Vegatate under a 600 watt MH light for 6 weeks I know time doesent matter was do to my topping and getting 1 plant as big as I could.
2: Switching to 12/12 First I gave it 1 does of 10.50.10 bloom food that during it growth spurt would create as many flower spots as Possible, and of course superthrive.
3: Flowering have switched to HPS 600 and have switched to Big Bud and Bud candy. the growth and smell at week 3 is crazy Plant health perfect a few leaves starting to yellow at bottom of plant which is normal. A few pics to show it at week 3 going into week 4.
 

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pollen205

Well-Known Member
I use biotabs and my roots are big and strong so I cant put any more tablet in soil...if I dont want to damage roots...
So can I resolve half of the tablet in 2 l or 5 l water and then give it to plant that way ?


:weed:
 
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