Nute burn? Other def? Im just not sure.

Plant is Durbin Poison 5 weeks flower now May 20th
Beastie bloom.. cha ching, and open sesame.
Fox Farm Ocean Forrest Soil
5 Gallon Squat pot.
3x3' Grow tent with 900 watts LED light.
temp at a constant between 70-75
Last 3 weeks feed schedule all 1 gal water
May 2 fed 1/16 teaspoon Foxfarm trio crystals bottle 2 Everything looked good week 3
May 6 fed 1/16 teaspoon bottle 2, also added 3ml calmag. Top of plant looking light green week 3
May 10 ph water only week 4 top pf plant looking lighter and tops turning brown and curling.
May 13 fed 1/16 teaspoon bottle end of week 4 top of plant looking lighter and though it needed N.
May 16 Fed 1/16 teaspoon hoping it would green up...
May 17 looked lighter so I thought Nute burn and flushed with 2 gallons.

They seem to look a little better today but I wanted to get some opinions before I do something bad to my plant 5 weeks into flower.

Any suggestions on what i can do to brighten this plants life up?
Sorry about dupe pics of first one.

Fox Farm trio nutes are horrible. Complete rip off and not needed, IMO. Switch to a well balanced fertilizer. Flush was a good call, now let them dry a bit.

Hi Shawn, Bugeye is very right on the fox farms, I've been doing this a long time now and I tried some of those exactly what you have Big Bloom, Beastie Bloom and Cha Ching, and they all where way to hot and burned my ladies, they looked just like your's do now, your using 5 gallon pots you have to flush with at least 5 gallons of water or double that, and get something suggested here from others, What I use now is Jacks blossom Booster 10 30 20 when they start needing something which I really don't like to use unless they really need something to chew on. I've been using that for about 30 yrs now I tried the fox farms for a time or two until they did what yours are now and have not used it since.
IMO I think the easier the better to grow making things to complicated is asking for more trouble, and You don't need that.

Good Luck hope you get it straight before you loose any
Bear420

Flushed with 4 gallons ph 6.2 on Friday may 20
Flushed with 5 gallons ph 6.2 on sunday may 22
Still problem is getting worse.. Plant is dying and drying from the top down.
Temp is between 68-75
Humidity is about %40
6 weeks 4 days into flower.
Please help me figure this out.
This is the 2nd time I grew this strain and both times plant starts this crap at 5 weeks.
I just don't understand.
I use Foxfarm trio crystals at 1/4-1/3 recommended dose.
Ph normally watered at 6.5 but lowered to 6.2 because I thought maybe some lockout.
I left the lights on but you should be able to see how its getting worse.
Anyone have any ideas?

Probably gave them a good burn. It doesnt just stop after a flush. That damage will continue to show until its all apparent. Also at this stage in the grow theres no healing of the leaves. So itll look crappy, but should work itself out and the smoke will still be killer. And yes, as stated above. Please move away from the ff brand of food. Its always the first thing new growers want, but ive only seen a hand full of people that use it effectively.
The only other things that could be messing with that plant i can think of, would be if you let the plant go dry, when the branches all go limp from lack of water or excessive heat, they can show necrosis in the following days. Or if your root systems dying and rotting from brown slime in hydro. I hope its just a minor over feed and things get better for ya, good luck.

I check my plant daily and the longest it has ever gone without a water is 4 days.

Can you suggest a good noob nutrient I could use? Everyone suggested foxfarm OF soil and foxfarm line fert. Then everyone after I got it tells me its no good. I am pretty new at growing if its not obvious and im really really trying to learn this stuff and appreciate all your guys help. If there was just a noob friendly regiment out there. I do not know anything about how to mix my own soils and stuff so if any pro's can point me to a good soil also It would be great.

Another Q. I just bought a EC meter and not sure if I need it or not.. I use soil and thought EC meter was for hydro. I do have a PPM and PH meter and temp/moisture meter though.
I use stored tap water with a bubbler and don't know if I need Cal/mag either but have some. Plant doesn't appear to need it though.

Well, I had to harvest my last plant at 6 weeks because it was 10x worse than this one.. 3/4 of my last plant literally dried crispy with little to no crystals and was a shit smoke.

Shawn Dotson said:

Can you suggest a good noob nutrient I could use? Everyone suggested foxfarm OF soil and foxfarm line fert. Then everyone after I got it tells me its no good. I am pretty new at growing if its not obvious and im really really trying to learn this stuff and appreciate all your guys help. If there was just a noob friendly regiment out there. I do not know anything about how to mix my own soils and stuff so if any pro's can point me to a good soil also It would be great.

Another Q. I just bought a EC meter and not sure if I need it or not.. I use soil and thought EC meter was for hydro. I do have a water meter and PH meter and temp meter though.
I use stored tap water with a bubbler and don't know if I need Cal/mag either but have some. Plant doesn't appear to need it though.

Well, I had to harvest my last plant at 6 weeks because it was 10x worse than this one.. 3/4 of my last plant literally dried crispy with little to no crystals and was a shit smoke.

Click to expand...

Ok i got a minute to give ya some tips. An ec meter is the same as a ppm meter. It is a very useful tool for soil, and hydro. It measures how much electrical conductivity is present in your water. The more conductive the water is, the more stuff is in it, or the higher ppms you have. These meters work great for measuring chemical fertilizer. I dont know if they measure organic plant food because i never use organic. I think they may not work well for terd based foods. Anyway, if i were you i would stick to chemical fertilizers and reading that ec meter. For simplicity.
So next theres the feed charts. Fuck em. Never listen to those bottles and how they tell you to feed plants. Use the ec meter. When a plants small you dont need much food, and when a plant is large you need lots of food. This is how you should determine what to feed it, take into account the size of the plant, the age, the pot size, the temps, the light used, and the color of the plant. Factor all of these together and youll be much more accurate than what a bottle tells you to do.
Size-seedlings in organic soil need nothing but water. One plant per light monsters in organic soil and 27 gallon totes can use up to 1000 ppms per feeding.
Age-a five day old plant wont need food, older plants can handle more.
Pot size-If you have organic soil in a huge container the plant will live off of that for a long time. If you have small containers and huge plants in them, youll need to feed more frequently, but also keep in mind that a root bound plant burns easily so lower ec feedings for rootbound plants.
Temps-cooler weather means slower growth, which also means lower feed rates. Higher temps mean faster water absorbtion, faster transpiration rates,cand faster growth, meaning more food necessary.
Lights-a few cfls in a closet will need much less feed than a room full of 1000 w hps setups.
Color of plant- a dark green plant needs less food. Also a plant with burnt tips or the claw needs less food. A plant thats yellowing needs more food, or more of one specific element. Color of the plant is the most important factor as to if you should bump up, or back off of the feeding.

So ya, always think you want to start slow, and feed more as the plant grows. I max out way below what the bottle tells me to put in. But ive been doing this for a while and i dont even give my plants runoff anymore. I just feed low and let the fertilizer build up in the root zone. I dont suggest you do that quite yet though. Id be giving yourself 10-15% runoff at waterings. Also with a good organic soil you dojt have to feed at every watering, you can feed every third time at the beginning, and then bump it up to evey second one in bloom. I usually add a bit of calmag to every watering when i run soil, just not food every time. Those three numbers on the food bottles represent the npk values. They are the macro nutrients, meaning the most important ones. Calmag doesnt have macros, just micros. Cal, and mag, are micros, and very important ones. Ive heard chatter that in flower, the plant uses more mag than P. But im not quite sure so dont quote me. All i do know is that the plant loves calmag. I use it from two weeks in, too two weeks before chop. And obviously i start with super low amounts, and then work up to about 110 ppm in full flower under 1 k lights, with temps at 78, seven gallon pots, and nice big old plants. Ffof soil is good stuff if your using soil, just dont over feed it because its hot already.
And if you want a good fertilizer thats simple, go with dyna-grow. Its a frickin one part. How simple is that? Guys that use it swear by it. You can also probably order it on amazon for cheaper than the hydro stores sell it.
The biggest thing to remember when fertilizing is, the fertilizer doesnt grow nice plants, grower talent grows nice plants.

Alienwidow said:

Ok i got a minute to give ya some tips. An ec meter is the same as a ppm meter. It is a very useful tool for soil, and hydro. It measures how much electrical conductivity is present in your water. The more conductive the water is, the more stuff is in it, or the higher ppms you have. These meters work great for measuring chemical fertilizer. I dont know if they measure organic plant food because i never use organic. I think they may not work well for terd based foods. Anyway, if i were you i would stick to chemical fertilizers and reading that ec meter. For simplicity.

Click to expand...

Wow, Thank you for all the good info. I'm using about 900watts. 110ppm is sounding like where my problem might have started then. I have been feeding 300-500ppm and the damn chart says feed over 1000. I learned a lot from your post and will now put it to use. Hope for the best!

Little more info.. I only have 1 plant in 5 gallon squat pot and is in a 3'x3' tent and is wall to wall and 3 feet tall roughly -pot. Main cola's are only about 4" long.

Thank you very much Kind Sir!

PS. Messed some info above up. Said I had a water meter when I meant PPM meter. Did not know PPM meter and EC meter were same? Oh well, so I will have 2 now

Whats you're run off Ph and ppm reading. Are you feeding EC 1.8 because they look under fed. Colouring of leaves is green light going yellowish that's the colour you want going into final flush.harvest.... not 5 weeks flowering...pump that juice up.

EC 1.8 / ppm 900 Ph 5.8 ur soil will buffer to 6.2 keep it simple study ur plant and become one with nature. Every plant is diff for all us because environment and conditions so all have to grow it different.

Alienwidow said:

Ok i got a minute to give ya some tips. An ec meter is the same as a ppm meter. It is a very useful tool for soil, and hydro. It measures how much electrical conductivity is present in your water. The more conductive the water is, the more stuff is in it, or the higher ppms you have. These meters work great for measuring chemical fertilizer. I dont know if they measure organic plant food because i never use organic. I think they may not work well for terd based foods. Anyway, if i were you i would stick to chemical fertilizers and reading that ec meter. For simplicity.
So next theres the feed charts. Fuck em. Never listen to those bottles and how they tell you to feed plants. Use the ec meter. When a plants small you dont need much food, and when a plant is large you need lots of food. This is how you should determine what to feed it, take into account the size of the plant, the age, the pot size, the temps, the light used, and the color of the plant. Factor all of these together and youll be much more accurate than what a bottle tells you to do.
Size-seedlings in organic soil need nothing but water. One plant per light monsters in organic soil and 27 gallon totes can use up to 1000 ppms per feeding.
Age-a five day old plant wont need food, older plants can handle more.
Pot size-If you have organic soil in a huge container the plant will live off of that for a long time. If you have small containers and huge plants in them, youll need to feed more frequently, but also keep in mind that a root bound plant burns easily so lower ec feedings for rootbound plants.
Temps-cooler weather means slower growth, which also means lower feed rates. Higher temps mean faster water absorbtion, faster transpiration rates,cand faster growth, meaning more food necessary.
Lights-a few cfls in a closet will need much less feed than a room full of 1000 w hps setups.
Color of plant- a dark green plant needs less food. Also a plant with burnt tips or the claw needs less food. A plant thats yellowing needs more food, or more of one specific element. Color of the plant is the most important factor as to if you should bump up, or back off of the feeding.

So ya, always think you want to start slow, and feed more as the plant grows. I max out way below what the bottle tells me to put in. But ive been doing this for a while and i dont even give my plants runoff anymore. I just feed low and let the fertilizer build up in the root zone. I dont suggest you do that quite yet though. Id be giving yourself 10-15% runoff at waterings. Also with a good organic soil you dojt have to feed at every watering, you can feed every third time at the beginning, and then bump it up to evey second one in bloom. I usually add a bit of calmag to every watering when i run soil, just not food every time. Those three numbers on the food bottles represent the npk values. They are the macro nutrients, meaning the most important ones. Calmag doesnt have macros, just micros. Cal, and mag, are micros, and very important ones. Ive heard chatter that in flower, the plant uses more mag than P. But im not quite sure so dont quote me. All i do know is that the plant loves calmag. I use it from two weeks in, too two weeks before chop. And obviously i start with super low amounts, and then work up to about 110 ppm in full flower under 1 k lights, with temps at 78, seven gallon pots, and nice big old plants. Ffof soil is good stuff if your using soil, just dont over feed it because its hot already.
And if you want a good fertilizer thats simple, go with dyna-grow. Its a frickin one part. How simple is that? Guys that use it swear by it. You can also probably order it on amazon for cheaper than the hydro stores sell it.
The biggest thing to remember when fertilizing is, the fertilizer doesnt grow nice plants, grower talent grows nice plants.

Click to expand...

Wow, did you just recommend dyna gro


Dyna Gro Foliage Pro and Protekt from start to finish in containers. No bloom food or boosters needed.

SamsonsRiddle said:

Wow, did you just recommend dyna gro


Dyna Gro Foliage Pro and Protekt from start to finish in containers. No bloom food or boosters needed.

Click to expand...

Keen eye id been running canna because i get their stuff at fall off the truck prices or less. My store never had carried dynagrow before. It was actually the first nutrient line i had set my sights on getting when i started years ago, but couldnt get it. I found it on the shelves way in the back tucked away with dust on it, and pounced on that shit like a caveman pre drag n rape. So well see, i may join the dynagro fanboy club real soon. I already like the fact that its a one part, and that its twice as concentrated as botanicare or canna. Well also see about no bloom boosters needed. Thats the first thing im going to experiment with. I run a pk boost week 4.5-5.5 of flower and it works well for me, ill also pick up the dyna bloom and finish with that. If theres no difference im obviously going to move twards simplicity but ive run grow foods all the way through before and i was much happier with the taste and SMELLS i got with a one week pk boost, and a bloom food finish. It just finished the plant better i found. The grow food grow on the other hand, was so green that it took forever to taste and smell like anything besides chlorophyll. I did get the protekt too so well see....

Get a well balanced fert like dynagro or maxsea. There are many good ones.

Don't mix brands. Just a well balanced feed.

Also don't worry about run off pH as it will have you chasing your tail.

The proper way to test soil pH is to take equal parts dry soil and deionized water and mix. Then test. Distilled would work to.

There are so many things in soil that can make run off pH readings inaccurate.

Alienwidow said:

Keen eye id been running canna because i get their stuff at fall off the truck prices or less. My store never had carried dynagrow before. It was actually the first nutrient line i had set my sights on getting when i started years ago, but couldnt get it. I found it on the shelves way in the back tucked away with dust on it, and pounced on that shit like a caveman pre drag n rape. So well see, i may join the dynagro fanboy club real soon. I already like the fact that its a one part, and that its twice as concentrated as botanicare or canna. Well also see about no bloom boosters needed. Thats the first thing im going to experiment with. I run a pk boost week 4.5-5.5 of flower and it works well for me, ill also pick up the dyna bloom and finish with that. If theres no difference im obviously going to move twards simplicity but ive run grow foods all the way through before and i was much happier with the taste and SMELLS i got with a one week pk boost, and a bloom food finish. It just finished the plant better i found. The grow food grow on the other hand, was so green that it took forever to taste and smell like anything besides chlorophyll. I did get the protekt too so well see....

Click to expand...

lol

i'm not sure about your medium, but floralicious plus is a great compliment in promix or hydro for flavor/taste.

interesting method you have there, and i understand what you're saying. let us know how it works out

Alienwidow said:

Ok i got a minute to give ya some tips. An ec meter is the same as a ppm meter. It is a very useful tool for soil, and hydro. It measures how much electrical conductivity is present in your water. The more conductive the water is, the more stuff is in it, or the higher ppms you have. These meters work great for measuring chemical fertilizer. I dont know if they measure organic plant food because i never use organic. I think they may not work well for terd based foods. Anyway, if i were you i would stick to chemical fertilizers and reading that ec meter. For simplicity.

Click to expand...

Ok, Water time again today so I got some added info.
Watered with 1 1/2 gallon of PH 6.2 water ppm 26
Runoff measured Ph 6.25 and PPM was 190
Leaves on upper plant are getting lighter color and tips and edges on top continue to burn. :/

Shawn Dotson said:

Ok, Water time again today so I got some added info.
Watered with 1 1/2 gallon of PH 6.2 water ppm 26
Runoff measured Ph 6.25 and PPM was 190
Leaves on upper plant are getting lighter color and tips and edges on top continue to burn. :/

Click to expand...

Its all good, hang in there. So was that a typo or was the ppm 26? 260? If its going in 260 and coming out 190 you should be fine. In at 26 and out at 190 means theres built up salts in the root zone that are flushing out with the water. Its still not that bad though. If it was coming out at 1000 or over you would have real problems. Id say the first flush took care of the build up if there was any major build up. If you havent added the calmag yet i would at the next watering. Id say add about 100 ppm to the mix. Plant stil looks fine to me.

Alienwidow said:

Its all good, hang in there. So was that a typo or was the ppm 26? 260? If its going in 260 and coming out 190 you should be fine. In at 26 and out at 190 means theres built up salts in the root zone that are flushing out with the water. Its still not that bad though. If it was coming out at 1000 or over you would have real problems. Id say the first flush took care of the build up if there was any major build up. If you havent added the calmag yet i would at the next watering. Id say add about 100 ppm to the mix. Plant stil looks fine to me.

Click to expand...

Um, Went in at 26 because it was just water with some ph down to 6.2
It came out looking like sewer water at 190 ppm and a touch higher ph 6.25

Thank you for info! Much appreciated!

Shawn Dotson said:

Um, Went in at 26 because it was just water with some ph down to 6.2
It came out looking like sewer water at 190 ppm and a touch higher ph 6.25

Thank you for info! Much appreciated!

Click to expand...

Damn dude. Your tap water is super low ppm. Most people have tap at 100-200. A reverse osmosis system can get it down to 10 usually! 26 is like super pure. Have you tested your ppm meter lately? Some of the grow stores have calibration solution you can use at the stores to be sure that your equipment is on, well mine does. You might have to buy calibration solution from other stores.

Yes, I just got another meter and they both read the same.. plain water from tap reads 23 ppm. Considering my city water smells like a swamp and bleach I'm amazed its this low also. If I let the water run for a min and hold it under running... it even gets lower... 14ppm
Im getting another meter that test PPM PH and Temp tomorrow in the mail..so will check it with that one too.

Nah man ur ppm must be fucked U can't get 14ppm. Rain water is 6. I'm in new Zealand and my ppm is 77 we have most freshest water in world

Lostnz said:

Nah man ur ppm must be fucked U can't get 14ppm. Rain water is 6. I'm in new Zealand and my ppm is 77 we have most freshest water in world

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I just tested a dish of rain water with it and it read 57 ppm
Then I squeezed a soggy cigarette butt into it and it read 573 ppm
I dunno.. I will get a new one soon and try it again.