NFTG. Nectar For The Gods

IrieRoots

IrieRoots

Well-Known Member
I've used cheaper versions of the boogie filter in the past with same results with other hose end garden filters but they don't last near as long. But for $20 on Amazon you can get a a GardenPure hose end filter that is similar to the boogie, just with way less filtering capacity.
 
IrieRoots

IrieRoots

Well-Known Member
Of course chlorine will kill the micro field, but with all the humics, fulvics, organic acids, unbonded calcium in nectar, it becomes way less of a microbe killer and ties chlorine up. I would never just plain water with chlorine treated water. Hell phosphoric acid will kill microbes too but life grows freely inside the Hades down bottle. Its all about the concentrations of chlorine salts or phosphoric acids in solution whether it will kill of microbes. You don't need to baby your microbes, they are hardy creatures that deal with all kinds of hurdles to sustain life in their environment. My cheap high school microscope proved a lot of my opinions here for what's in my water source. Its one of the reasons I dropped RO for charcoal/KDF and havnt looked back.
 
IrieRoots

IrieRoots

Well-Known Member
I also want to add that pot size plays a big roll in my opinion as well, I would surely worry more about my water source if using less than 3 gallon pots as the microbial field is a lot smaller and far more sensitive to inputs. 5 gallons and up it becomes a non issue. Large PH swings is more of a microbe killer in my experience.
 
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bubba73

Well-Known Member
the real issue of when you should use RO water is if your water is above 300 ppm... but for me i used RO , i like the clean slate and i add in what i want .. I use amended soil and what i found out is less watering and less using nutrients and more using microbes ...
 
IrieRoots

IrieRoots

Well-Known Member
I agree, it all comes down to starting water ppm. my water comes in at 130 ppm in the summer and 80ish in the winter. Right now I get it down to 40 with a whole house GE filter and the boogie+, that's why I stopped using RO. I did like the clean slate 0 ppm start too.
 
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bubba73

Well-Known Member
now i was real anal about slurries every feeding im trying not to now as much (driving me nuts ) will see .... ill help as much as i can with nutrients and feeding and what not ... remember ! what works for me , mite not for you .. but will get you close...... remember if you decide to stop using medusa in flower remember you gotta up the gaia .. So if it calls for 2ml of medusa in flower , now you gotta add the extra 2ml to gaia ....
 
IrieRoots

IrieRoots

Well-Known Member
That's what I do, I work up to double the Gaia and match it with Demeter. I used to do a lot more SLURRIES too but don't have to do it much anymore. SLURRIES taught me how to run Bloom Khaos too. I've been running nectar for 3 years and know when and how to step on the throttle or ease off a little. I'm just trying to work towards better fades in the end without starving them. And just wanted to see what others were doing or if anyone having similar experience.
 
zzeroo

zzeroo

Well-Known Member
IrieRoots said:
I also want to add that pot size plays a big roll in my opinion as well, I would surely worry more about my water source if using less than 3 gallon pots as the microbial field is a lot smaller and far more sensitive to inputs. 5 gallons and up it becomes a non issue. Large PH swings is more of a microbe killer in my experience.
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IrieRoots said:
https://www.monstergardens.com/boogie-blue-plus-filter?language=en&currency=USD&gclid=CjwKCAiAyMHhBRBIEiwAkGN6fFhaXBAfsl3XHBNCWfk-9AN-Mjid26Jx4MzJaltEKdC06eUIStJXFBoCQywQAvD_BwE
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good look for this too ,,,bongsmilie
 
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bubba73

Well-Known Member
IrieRoots said:
That's what I do, I work up to double the Gaia and match it with Demeter. I used to do a lot more SLURRIES too but don't have to do it much anymore. SLURRIES taught me how to run Bloom Khaos too. I've been running nectar for 3 years and know when and how to step on the throttle or ease off a little. I'm just trying to work towards better fades in the end without starving them. And just wanted to see what others were doing or if anyone having similar experience.
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What I have been doing to get the fade at the end without starving them is in the middle of the second week of flower i have started to ramp up the amount of Tritons that I give them .... starting with 15 mls at start of week 2 and increasing it by 5 ml per feed. the first feed in week 3, I am at 30 mls Tritons. By week 4, I am at 40-45 ml and stay there till the rippening flush when I take it back down to 30 ml. I even add Mega, Tritons, AE to every other tea feed (I use the cultured bilogix teas). Doing this, I have seen a nice fade to my girls but then I push them out pretty good.
 
IrieRoots

IrieRoots

Well-Known Member
And larger pots take Herc a hell of a lot better too.......find it easier to manage the bone gum/crust when I get up to 6 tbs of bone meal. And if there is space for the wider squat pots its even ?,?
bubba73 said:
What I have been doing to get the fade at the end without starving them is in the middle of the second week of flower i have started to ramp up the amount of Tritons that I give them .... starting with 15 mls at start of week 2 and increasing it by 5 ml per feed. the first feed in week 3, I am at 30 mls Tritons. By week 4, I am at 40-45 ml and stay there till the rippening flush when I take it back down to 30 ml. I even add Mega, Tritons, AE to every other tea feed (I use the cultured bilogix teas). Doing this, I have seen a nice fade to my girls but then I push them out pretty good.
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word! I like it, will definitely try it this way. I've been running Kraken through week 3 then start to reduce medusa/Athena and work in tritons but then that trade off has been happening a little later than your method. looks like I need to just need to do what I've been doing but just transition earlier. Thanks bubba, gonna try it!
 
IrieRoots

IrieRoots

Well-Known Member
I assume everyone foliars?....at least the BK, and I imagine Trigger if using Cultered. I definitely foliar and love the Kraken for it, it's one of my favorite products in the line. I have a few Go-To recipes, what are you guys doing for foliars when not hitting with BK?
 
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bubba73

Well-Known Member
IrieRoots said:
I assume everyone foliars?....at least the BK, and I imagine Trigger if using Cultered. I definitely foliar and love the Kraken for it, it's one of my favorite products in the line. I have a few Go-To recipes, what are you guys doing for foliars when not hitting with BK?[/QU

When not using BK , i use trigger 2 weeks before i switch to 12/12 and 1 week after 12/12 .. only time i use foliars if the plant is having an issue (yellowing)
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IrieRoots

IrieRoots

Well-Known Member
I do similar but add 5ml Kraken to the trigger the day before BK ever since Scott recommended the Krak. But only just before transition and stop the Krak when sites start showing up. There's a crazy synergy when BK goes to work and Kraken is in the plant......the preflowers explode with resin glands early and surrounding leaves dusted before the plant has even set its flowers. Some phenos the water leaves pop glands. Its almost overnight and I hadn't changed anything but Kraken. Hadn't even started AE yet. Plus the Krak makes the stems 10 times stronger!!
 
IrieRoots

IrieRoots

Well-Known Member
I'm a foliar Nut though, I even foliar in full bloom. Just hitting lower leaves and strategically avoiding flower sites. It keeps brix readings way higher than what the roots can produce and keeps good biology on leaves and stems, plus I swear the leaves are never not praying....lights ON.....lights OFF....they are always reaching for The sky!! The humidity boost is always good too this time of year.
 
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