NFTG. Nectar For The Gods

Anyone use real growers recharge with the nectar line?

I’ve been using recharge for a while now with my living soil mix but I’m a little bit concerned using it with nectar because it has so much kelp in it and almost all nectar products have kelp.

I don’t want to use to much kelp...

Tlarss said:

Anyone use real growers recharge with the nectar line?

I’ve been using recharge for a while now with my living soil mix but I’m a little bit concerned using it with nectar because it has so much kelp in it and almost all nectar products have kelp.

I don’t want to use to much kelp...

Click to expand...

No i havent! Im currently recharging my soil with @IrieRoots recipe he posted in this thread somewhere. Im sure he has a bunch of info that you are looking for.

Tlarss said:

Anyone use real growers recharge with the nectar line?

I’ve been using recharge for a while now with my living soil mix but I’m a little bit concerned using it with nectar because it has so much kelp in it and almost all nectar products have kelp.

I don’t want to use to much kelp...

Click to expand...

i have

it works well with Nectar but Photo Plus is better IMO

What are you guys running in flower? I have Medusa, Gaia, athenas, Demeters, Herc, Zeus, AE and Tritons....am I missing anything?

If you want to try just about everything in the line and then some, here is the schedule from Bill Burns.

does anybody have the September 20% off code for oregonsconstantgardener.com


edit: nevermind,the GARDEN20 code still works

'Sup everyone.

You know that rule that's more than likely posted all over this forum and in every grow book I've ever read? "Change one thing at a time."
Well my grow decided to have other plans.

1) Nov. my 7-year old 450 HPS dies. Run to the shop and grab a HLG330 b-spec burning sun from hell to finish the last two weeks of that grow.
2) March 1. Old 200w T5 in the veg room starts shooting sparks. Run and grab a new HLG120 b-spec special.
3) While there the clerk gets me interested in using Nectar because they've been having trouble getting Green Planet for a while.. by April I'm harvasting my last Green Planet run.
4) Just for shits and giggles I changed up strains too. It wasn't interesting enough yet.

So I followed instructions and changed one thing, the whole damned grow. So here I am, with a brand new plant stacking nodes like I've never seen before and juggling lights that can either burn a hole through the foundation of my house if too close or dim to a nice reading level, and among this chaos I've got the most olive green leaves I've ever had.

This is my 3rd NFTG crop now. Crop 1&2 were low yields because I panicked and turned the light down way too much after getting bud rot for running the HLG330 too hot and too humid.

After a decade of chart feeding from other nute lines and just Ph-ing to their spec then guessing what any weird leaf problems may have been now I feel like I"m driving the nutes instead of the nutes driving me.

Here's what I've got going on now that the PPM meter came in last week.

3 girls, currently in 3gals soon to be up-potted to 5gal.
24" X 38.5" X 7' closet
Main-line stress training to 8-lolli-tops.
Dutch Passion: Think Fast Sativa-Dom

NFTG #4
Soil Ph 6.5
Soil TDS: 350 before feeding.
Nute Solution (Greek / double Gia): Ph 6.4 TDS 1150 (Adding Persephone's for the first time this week and Tritan's in flower.)

Living stuff: Mykos and Azos @ transplants and as small bumps for my "teas" for the time being.

Temps are hovering around 78°-82° and the RH around 48-55%, Leaf temps are bouncing around 6-10 less than ambient.
Doing hourly VPD calculations I'm swinging between .75-.1.1 VPD on average in veg.

I *think* I've got the plants under about 650ppfd for the last two weeks of veg. I'm using the HLG conversion calculator for using a cell phone LUX app and I have zero confidence that this thing is accurate, but I'm not getting burns anymore either, so eh. Going to see if I can talk to my hydro guy into letting me rent a PPFD meter so I can get true readings at a set distance and call it a day.

Just started doing BK today to get them ready for flower in two weeks. Will be alternating this with Foliar Kracken to strengthen up the stems.

My last harvest was approx 4oz light because of my fubar reaction to the mold but that has to do with a heavy pruning hand and backing too far off the lights, the taste from last harvest is amazing and the buds feel like rocks.

After 10 years of growing with other organic lines, now I can honestly say I feel like I'm in control of the plant.
The NFTG bible is the shit! I can't wait to start foliar feeding mom with Scott's "Mom Tea" before cutting her up for clones.

The only thing I haven't started yet is SLF-100, the wife's grouchy about how much the closet has cost this year so I'm treading lightly on the budget while I've got a full bag of Azos. Once that's gone I'll replace it with SLF-100 since it's more complete and has some Azospirillum brasilense in it.

Even after 2 "blind" harvests where I didn't have an EC-TDS meter, I did my first slurry about 3.5 weeks into the 3rd grow and the numbers came out Bang-Bang.

Hi Nectar Fam! Very first time growing and so far my plants seem to be doing ok. I'm using the NFTG sample pack. But after watching all the OCGFAM vids, reading thru the bible a few times (v5.0 would love to ask for v5.2 from someone on here), and going thru this entire thread twice now, I can't seem to get my slurries in line.

Please help, I want to get my numbers in line before I flip to flower. No matter what I do I can't seem to get the soil PH into the 6's and ppms above 200.

-Day 38 in Veg
-Light: Black Dog Phytomax 2 600watt LED (18/6)
-Room temp is 82 degrees 55%-60% RH
-Soil is Roots Organic 707
-5 Gallon Fabric pots
-Slurry #'s: All my plants test between PH 7.5-7.7 and between 130ppm-180ppm tested in distilled water the morning after feedings
-Meter: Hanna Meter (700 scale)


Have done a few flushes after every 3 feedings, 2 TBSP HH flushes and/ or 2 TBSP Gaia Mania flushes PH'd at 5.8-6.0. I PH all my feeds at 6.0. Based on what I've researched, I believe my issue is the extremely hard water here and build up of calcium bicarbonate, but I don't know how to correct it.

Tap water: 350ppm PH 10.2
Water out my RO filter: 006ppm PH 9.2

I followed the sample regimen to T for first 25 days of veg, but kept seeing a Mag Deficiency. Ever since I bumped up the Demeter's (gradually 2x, 3x, now 5x), leaves are nice and dark again (attached pic of what the Mag Def looked like). Should I back off the DD, or do you believe the high PH is why Mag has a tough time getting up?

Current Feed:
2tsp Medusa
2tsp Gaia Mania
2tsp Athenas Aminas
5tsp Demeter's Destiny
9Tsp Herculean Harvest
1tsp Zeus Juice
3tsp Hades Down
1/2tsp SLF 100
PH 6.0 1200ppm

Please advise!

Tlarss said:

Anyone use real growers recharge with the nectar line?

I’ve been using recharge for a while now with my living soil mix but I’m a little bit concerned using it with nectar because it has so much kelp in it and almost all nectar products have kelp.

I don’t want to use to much kelp...

Click to expand...

I use nectar #4 as a base soil with recharge every other watering. I am not too concerned with too much boost for the soil. I mix 100-200% recommended strength and have not seen any negative effects. **Edit** Says on the package "will not hurt plants at any strength"

I also use super soil in the bottom 4 inches of my planter.

thehashjournal said:

would love to ask for v5.2 from someone on here

Click to expand...

Here ya go:

Galvatron1 said:

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Click to expand...

Thank you!

What are you guys running for the last 2 weeks flower ‘ripening’ flush.

right now I’m going with 2TBSP Herc, 1 TBSP Aphro extraction and 1TBSP tritons with 5 mil slf-100...

Any thoughts?

thehashjournal said:

Hi Nectar Fam! Very first time growing and so far my plants seem to be doing ok. I'm using the NFTG sample pack. But after watching all the OCGFAM vids, reading thru the bible a few times (v5.0 would love to ask for v5.2 from someone on here), and going thru this entire thread twice now, I can't seem to get my slurries in line.


Tap water: 350ppm PH 10.2
Water out my RO filter: 006ppm PH 9.2

Click to expand...

Yikes and I thought my water was in a rough spot at 320ppm and a PH of 7.5

With a PH that high out of the tap, you've got a disaster going on even out of the RO filter. It's my understanding that NFTG basically doesn't uptake successfully outside 6.2 - 7. I know I've got a high alkalinity just from replacing my whole house water filters every 6 months, I can knock the filter against the house and little white calcite chunks fall off. Same when I flush the water heater.

I'd guess your water is the problem more than anything. NFTG doesn't particularly like "naked" (RO) water as Scott calls it in his show, you're stripping all the minierals out of the water and only barely getting a PH drop from it. I only run a sediment filter and an activated carbon whole house filter. That's brings me down to 320 & 7.5. For early veg feedings and foliar feedings I PH my water down at least 24 hours before mixing up the nutes. I drop it to 7 before adding nutes in Veg and Kraken Foliar mix, down to at least 5.8 for BK since BK will bring it up to 6.2 really fast. Once I'm on to mid-veg or the flower feedings NFTG drops the PH low enough that I get to use Oly Up.

First I would look at what exactly is in your water that's pushing it that high. My county has a free annual report, but that only covers their water supply, not the result after it travels through miles of pipes to me, but it's a start. After that if you don't have reasonable answer as to why your PH is so basic, then I would look into a full spectrum test of your water. I haven't been able to find an affordable one locally for me that isn't geared towards selling water softeners, you can get mail-in tests in the range of $200 but that's the best I've found so far. Lacking actually knowing what's driving your water so basic, I would look for a secondary source of water, some rain barrels, a friend with a well, basically anything to get away from that 10+ water and allow you to keep some minerals in your water.

RetiredToker76 said:

...I know I've got a high alkalinity just from replacing my whole house water filters every 6 months, I can knock the filter against the house and little white calcite chunks fall off. Same when I flush the water heater.

...First I would look at what exactly is in your water that's pushing it that high. My county has a free annual report, but that only covers their water supply, not the result after it travels through miles of pipes to me, but it's a start.

Click to expand...

I appreciate the response and suggestions! My source water definitely fluctuates based on weather. I spoke with the water district this week, and they claim that more calcium and other minerals leech into the water as the pipes warm up. We've been having a bad heat wave lately...

Thanks for the reminder- I also swapped out my carbon and sediment filter from the RO unit, perhaps that helped as its been 13 months since buying the unit. Maybe more alkalinity was passing thru since there was so much calcium build up. Water is currently testing at PH 8.7. *During the winter I've tested water as low as PH 6.4 out of the RO unit.

Hope it really cools down soon. l want to be able to actually implement Oly Up into my feeds!

Anyone happen to know of soil test results for straight NFTG #4 out of the bag? Was poking around to see if anyone knew of results posted somewhere.

I'm doing a reset to a baseline and plan to test before amending things using just a base mix of #4 plus some EWC & Bu's compost to see what is a easily repeatable / common starting point.

NewGrower2011 said:

Anyone happen to know of soil test results for straight NFTG #4 out of the bag? Was poking around to see if anyone knew of results posted somewhere.

I'm doing a reset to a baseline and plan to test before amending things using just a base mix of #4 plus some EWC & Bu's compost to see what is a easily repeatable / common starting point.

Click to expand...

I'll do a slurry test in the next 2 weeks, I've got some cuttings, 3 days in the chamber right now. At transplant into soil I'll be sure to come back and post the baseline I get, I'd intended to take one anyway.

NewGrower2011 said:

Anyone happen to know of soil test results for straight NFTG #4 out of the bag? Was poking around to see if anyone knew of results posted somewhere.

I'm doing a reset to a baseline and plan to test before amending things using just a base mix of #4 plus some EWC & Bu's compost to see what is a easily repeatable / common starting point.

Click to expand...

Start Water Source: Publix Drinking Water
Water pH: 7.3
Water PPM: 100ppm (ppm 700 setting on the BluLab)

Calibrated both meters before I started.


Slurry: #4 Soil Fresh from the bag.

pH 6.4
PPM 190




There's your baseline, I'm in the middle of my first run using the soil in conjunction with the nutrient line. So starting at 6.4 and a PPM of 100, now I'm currently in the middle of Week3 of flower using the same bag this sample came from and running the Greek Reg +MegaMorph, Perseph, and Tritans.

After veg and 3 weeks of flower, it still sits at 6.5 for the pH. As of right now the plants are leaving about 400ppm in the soil right before feeding. With a nute solution strength of 1900ppm at 6.4.

I've double checked the pH meter against my 12 year old Hanna and they're about .03 apart from each other. Hope this info helps.

Oh yea, just for pedantry, I did a 2oz to 2oz ratio of water to soil.

Cool. Waiting on my soil test result for a new baseline mix of just NFTG #4 + WiggleWorm EWC + Bu's Compost.

Once I get that back I'm going to plan my amendments to aim for a water-only SS and not really need many nectar feeds other than for the occasional bump. I was aiming for SIPs + SS to avoid playing mad chemist all the time mixing and measuring/monitoring pH.

If Nectar offered a water-only SS pre-made that would be a great product I suspect - but runs counter to their business interests in selling the actual nutes so I wouldn't expect that to happen.

If I was being really diligent with my analysis I should have done soil test results of the 3 by themselves, a fourth with the mix. Then plan/make my amendments and a final test. Then I'd know the primary base inputs and what they contribute and how the final mix plays out.

I'm trying to get repeatable results basically. If you screw up your soil mix at any time having a known starting mix recipe is worth having imo.