Newbie experience with Timber Grow Lights & DIY

slow_grow

Well-Known Member
I believe so. Just before this kit I was running 400 something actual watts of less efficient vipar panels. Based on rough calculations I'll have made the $400 back in electricity savings alone within 2 years. That along with the configuration flexibility and scalability made it a no brainer for me. My vipar panels were solid though and cheap, I just happened to have a little more to throw at this so it just made more sense to me.
 

jeepster1993

Well-Known Member
Nice bro, I dig the layout on that because you could simply slide groups of COBs back and forth via the rails assuming you had some extra wiring tucked back for adjustments. Good shit man. Also, JK Rubi owner hehe.
Exactly!
I added a couple inches of extra wire on the end 4 cobs and did not screw them to the rail, so the can move a bit.
 
Hey Slow_grow,

I just saw your post and I have a similar setup that I just built with the same 300w Timber Grow Kit. I have it setup in a 2'x4'x5' Gorilla Shorty. Can you tell me what height and what power you run your COBs at for your plants? Right now I have 3 three week old seedlings under a T5. I want to move them under the new COB light rig but this thing is a beast and I'm afraid of cooking them from the light intensity.
 

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Evil-Mobo

Well-Known Member
Hey Slow_grow,

I just saw your post and I have a similar setup that I just built with the same 300w Timber Grow Kit. I have it setup in a 2'x4'x5' Gorilla Shorty. Can you tell me what height and what power you run your COBs at for your plants? Right now I have 3 three week old seedlings under a T5. I want to move them under the new COB light rig but this thing is a beast and I'm afraid of cooking them from the light intensity.
Shouldn't be an issue brother. But all strains react differently to light. My veg tent is 275 watts on full blast of COB's from the wall in a 3x3 so I would not think 25 watts more in a similar sized area would harm your girls. But to be safe just start the light higher than normal and start lowering and checking for the plants tolerance to the light .
 

Evil-Mobo

Well-Known Member
Thanks Evil-Mobo
Im running White Widow- simple and old school. Just trying to get a feel for my new setup. So I'll try the lights at 3ft from the canopy and full power starting tomorrow. :weed:
It's my first full run under cob I'm no expert just offering my thoughts based on my current grow.

They go from the 275w veg cobs to either under the 1K hps or the 600w of COB's in my flower tent. I do not dim just start at about three ft away and then I mess with distance to canopy which is a game of its own when they start the stretch in flower.

Currently at 20" in the veg tent from canopy and about 24" or so in the flower tent on the cob side and 30" on the hps side.

If I can offer anything else let me know.
 
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Thanks man, I really appreciate the quick responses!

I set the Cobs at 3ft from the canopy and I dimmed them to 50% for tonight to see how they do. If they look happy tomorrow I will increase the power.

Im new to indoor growing and I really appreciate all the help available here. Much credit to Greengenes and Growmau who inspired me and have really done a great job of helping the DIY community!!! :clap::clap::clap:
 

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slow_grow

Well-Known Member
Hey Slow_grow,

I just saw your post and I have a similar setup that I just built with the same 300w Timber Grow Kit. I have it setup in a 2'x4'x5' Gorilla Shorty. Can you tell me what height and what power you run your COBs at for your plants? Right now I have 3 three week old seedlings under a T5. I want to move them under the new COB light rig but this thing is a beast and I'm afraid of cooking them from the light intensity.
Nice man! I ended up ditching the reflectors and for seedlings I had the dial 1/4 turn from max at 28" to 30" away. Once they hit 20 days or so I crank it up 100% and drop it to 24". Every few days I'll raise it a click or two and make sure it's level using a free bubble level app you can grab in the app store.

Also, my second grow is 100% timber so peep my journal to get a sense of node distance/etc. you can expect from the above.
 
Thanks for the info slow_grow! I will definitely check out your other journal too. I'm sure most of the answers I need are here its just a ton of info to sort through..
I also reached out to Dan at Timber Grow lights and he has been very helpful as well. He reached out to PSUAGRO on RIU and sent along my questions..Im feeling the grower love :hug:
 

Stephenj37826

Well-Known Member
@BobCajun

Pin heatsinks are the best design. Please enlighten us to better. The reason being in what grow room is the air completely still? Fin design would need a much more directional air movement to be as effective. So for passive with ambient air movement Pin sinks for the win imho.
 

slow_grow

Well-Known Member
@BobCajun
Pin heatsinks are the best design. Please enlighten us to better. The reason being in what grow room is the air completely still? Fin design would need a much more directional air movement to be as effective. So for passive with ambient air movement Pin sinks for the win imho.
They nearly run too damn cool : o) My current in-tent lows are around 64° with the room being 60° at its lowest. A few weeks ago we had a freeze and I actually had to throw a heater in the tent. I ended up tweaking my lights on time to run deeper into the early morning but if they ran any cooler, I'd for certain need a heater in there when its cold out. Air movement consists of two clip-on fans on low, both below the light not even blowing on the heatsinks themselves.

Basically the tent never exceeds 5° above the room's temp which is pretty outstanding.
 

dargd1

Well-Known Member
Hey guys, I wanted to post a review of my experience with Timber Grow Lights (and Dan). When originally deciding on lights I started my journey with information gleaned primarily from amazon reviews. Frankly this was before I found RIU. I ended up with a few popular budget LED panels. I'll leave out brands because that isn't important in this context. It wasn't long before I learned the error of my ways. In short I was expecting far too much from my budget panels, was nowhere near as efficient as I thought I was, and I had next to no warranty. I firmly believe there is a place for the LED panels that I had but they weren't right for me.

I learned that if I downsized my space I could have far superior lighting for the same price with a 5 year warranty and humans I could call.

After asking a bunch of questions and reading a ton more, I ended up calling Dan at Timber. I told him about my goals and he suggested the 300W CREE CXB3590 kit. I told him I'd get back to him and did some more research in case he was just trying to sell me something. I kept reading that he and his kits were solid so I called him back and placed my order.

They test each kit for 24 hours prior to shipping. That said, I had the kit in my hands the following week.

Packaging: As discreet as it can get, zero information on the box aside from the shipping label. Each heatsink and light assembly was individually bubble wrapped and packed into small boxes (see photo of floor layout). Driver and wiring was neatly organized and individually wrapped as well.

Wiring: I was really worried about screwing something up but each wire is color coded to match the colored connectors in a series which is then color coded to the leads from the power supply (see photo of color coded wire terminals). I've built more than a few computers spanning micro to full ATX and here I was intimidated by this... I felt a fool within 30 seconds of opening the box. I could honestly have my 2 year old son wire this after about 30 minutes of simply demonstrating that wire color matches terminal color.

Pre-Assembly: I mention having built computers in the past and one thing I was a stickler about is always using high quality thermal paste. I could overclock a 3.2 GHz CPU to 4.5 easily with a good heatsink and clutch is the quality of the thermal paste. There are other DIY kits that use graphite pads. I could rant on that for an hour though perhaps a graphite pad is good enough for heat transfer in an LED application. The Timber website mentioned using Arctic 5 thermal paste. This stuff is 99.9% silver and shouldn't be overlooked. It runs $8 for a mere 3.5 grams. The heatsinks that come with the kit are fantastic but I attribute a lot of the reason why I can hold my hand on them inevitably after an 18 hour cycle at 100% without it feeling hot to the lack of skimping on the details. Well done Timber.

Framing: Although Timber offers a frame I opted to build my own. I used 1/8" aluminum angle. I cut with my mitre saw using an 80 tooth blade. Everything for the frame was picked up at lowes. I taped out the exact interior space of my tent on my kitchen floor to use as a coverage guide. I called Dan about 3 times, read about 100 posts, and finally decided on spacing. As mentioned by others, it is really just a matter of shifting into ninja erector set mode. It took me about 4 hours but I was taking my time. I'm forgetful yet for some reason I despise writing measurements down. This leads me to taking twice as long as anyone else.

Reflectors & Diffusers: Very cool that these are included in every kit. I once again read a lot and called Dan on my configuration and ended up running the reflectors with no diffusers. They both pop on and off with ease. Damn I love how flexible this DIY approach is.

Performance: They run very very cool. I assumed that I'd need a cooling solution and even ordered THIS temperature controller to kick on a clip on fan over the heatsinks if temps around the canopy exceeded 85°. With my LED panels, I was hitting low 90's (granted it is very hot right now). With these I haven't exceeded 82°. My plants seemed to have responded very well to them. This is my first grow, I'm at day 26 or 27. You may notice in the pictures that I have 5 happy plants. This is too many plants for this space. This was from my original configuration. Next round I'm going with a 2 plant (either 5G or 10G soil) SCROG. They've been running now for over a week on a 18/4 schedule with zero issues.

Areas where improvement would help:
1. There are 4 holes drilled and tapped into the heatsink for flexible mounting options. There are two black headed screws included for each heatsink. This leaves you with two holes with nothing in them. Maybe it is OCD but having two exposed holes bothers me and I would have gladly paid a few extra bucks for extra black screws to fill them. To me it looks like I screwed something up.

2. The warranty information can be found online however it would be nice to print up a summary with links and telephone numbers to include in the packaging. That said Dan honestly strikes me as the kind of person that would act as a conduit for any issue spanning the Cree lights or Meanwell driver.

3. Mention in the instructions that each color coded terminal has two inputs. It wasn't crystal to me if those were just extras in case of an error or if they both needed to be leveraged somehow.

Overall: The flexibility, scalability, warranty, and efficiency of this kit along with the absolute joy it was to work with Dan makes it very easy for me to recommend to anyone. I'd be lying if I said there wasn't also a cool factor in the fact that it is DIY (even though they do 99% of the work haha).

One final thing. As a newbie, this post "IF you are new to LED and want help choosing what to buy, POST HERE!" was overwhelming. I'm sure it was well intended but jesh there is a lot of bickering in there. You guys that know a lot only serve to confuse us newer folks if you deviate from advice into complex technical arguments and oftentimes all out cock measuring contests. At least, that was the case for me. YMMV.

Ok onto the pics!
Great post "review and recommendation." Especially the cock measuring part which is non stop on here for virtually anything and everything posted."
 

slow_grow

Well-Known Member
Great post "review and recommendation." Especially the cock measuring part which is non stop on here for virtually anything and everything posted."
Sorry you feel that way man and I don't mean to come off that way, if you feel like anything I've posted is a stretch in even the slightest of ways let me know and I'll post pics of whatever you feel may be off. My grows have been shared on my journals etc. and Dan is amazing to work with. I don't plan on expanding my grow and there aren't any kind of refer a friend discounts or some shit. There isn't anything in it for me oh and my cock is average according to the internets. Being so new, the only thing I can offer back to the community is details of stuff I try and mistakes I've made.
 

dargd1

Well-Known Member
Sorry you feel that way man and I don't mean to come off that way, if you feel like anything I've posted is a stretch in even the slightest of ways let me know and I'll post pics of whatever you feel may be off. My grows have been shared on my journals etc. and Dan is amazing to work with. I don't plan on expanding my grow and there aren't any kind of refer a friend discounts or some shit. There isn't anything in it for me oh and my cock is average according to the internets. Being so new, the only thing I can offer back to the community is details of stuff I try and mistakes I've made.
What are you sorry for?....I was agreeing 100% with your post....LOL...and for the first time I actually enjoyed a post on lighting and learned something about Timber that wasn't tainted with trash talk and arguments. Maybe my poor wording confused you?
 

slow_grow

Well-Known Member
What are you sorry for?....I was agreeing 100% with your post....LOL...and for the first time I actually enjoyed a post on lighting and learned something about Timber that wasn't tainted with trash talk and arguments. Maybe my poor wording confused you?
Oh shit man, I thought you meant my post was full of cock measuring hah.
 
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