New growth is yellow? trying to figure this out..

i live in venezuela bro.. used to live in the US but i moved back. and we have a super corrupt government that robbed the country blind, hence the lack of production and import. and let me check the ingredients and ill post it.

LuiiV said:

i live in venezuela bro.. used to live in the US but i moved back. and we have a super corrupt government that robbed the country blind, hence the lack of production and import. and let me check the ingredients and ill post it.

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Yo quiero un poquito coca. ;0

But yeah, that's cool, man.

LuiiV said:

could i use flavored tums? because i think my grandma has some of those hahaha. but regular tums i doubt i could find some. i would have to run all across the city just to see if i could maybe run into some.

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Dang talk about being up against the wall. Tough enough to grow sometimes having access to all the grow needs but to not be able to get anything? Thinking it might be tough grow for you.

calcium carbonate, antacids, and calcium supplement is all it says.and flavored.. so i dont know if i could use it because its flavored and not regular.

yeah i know its gonna be a hard grow.. but i wanted to give it a go.. and the plant's been good to me till now, kuz of the yellow growth..just trying to figure it out and find some kind of alternative to the name-products people usually use.

Assorted Fruit:
adipic acid, corn starch, FD&C blue #1 lake, FD&C red #40 lake, FD&C yellow #5 (tartrazine) lake, FD&C yellow #6 lake, flavors, mineral oil, sodium polyphosphate, sucrose, talc

Are those the assorted fruit kind of tums?

A guide of sorts

That chart might help if they had the access to all of the things needed to fix the deficiencys.

This is not light burn..it looks like a textbook iron deficiency.And possibly other micro as well.as rm3 noted micro deficiencies normally start at the new growth while magnesium tends to hit the middle of the plant and spread from there.Iron isn't very mobile in the plant so these nutrients can't be pulled from older leaves like more mobile elements.Make sure your ph is good.Generally 5.5 -6.0 for soiless,with most micro favoring the lower side of the scale.The best thing to add here is a chelated iron/micro supplement.In a less than optimum capacity if that can't be found,find some rusty water and give it some of that,not the best but will work in a pinch as long as your ph isn't the cause.If you had access I'd recommend botannicare cal mag as it contains chelated iron.And I don't advocate using sodium bicarbonate.If you don't have the right nutrients to grow hydroponically...you shouldn't be doing it.I'm going to recommend a good soil instead.Feed the soil and let it get your plant what it needs.Growing hydroponically without a decent micro supplement is a guaranteed problem.

If it is iron deficiency, it most likely didn't occur to me due to never having grown true hydro, which I realized upon sobering up this morning that this was.

What do you suppose is causing the cupping, Res?

Olive Drab Green said:

If it is iron deficiency, it most likely didn't occur to me due to never having grown true hydro, which I realized upon sobering up this morning that this was.

What do you suppose is causing the cupping, Res?

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There could be secondary heat intensity issues causing the cupping if the plant is already under nutrient stress...leaf cupping is a sign of stress.Heat and intensity are the most common cause, however a sick or malnourished plant has greatly reduced tolerance to these factors.The pattern of yellowing is key here...starting at top growth and from the center of the leaf out.

Honestly, listen to Resinhound, he's been around longer and I grow Organic in Coco, not pure hydro. Apologies for the confusion. But you did need to raise the lights and/or turn on a fan, hence the heat stress.

You shouldn't be trying to maintain a 6 ph at all times...let it swing some 5.5-6.0 this assures you are scooping up any micros you have in there...if there is any.Stop with the sodium bicarbonate...

Do you think the baking soda is possibly causing uptake issues with the iron?

PLANT NUTRIENT INTERACTIONS
Antagonism
Mulder’s Chart shows some of the interactions between plant nutrients.
High levels of a particular nutrient in the soil can interfere with the availability and uptake
by the plant of other nutrients. Those nutrients which interfere with one another are said to
be antagonistic.
For example, high nitrogen levels can reduce
the availability of boron, potash and copper;
high phosphate levels can influence the uptake of iron, calcium potash, copper and zinc;
high potash levels can reduce the availability of magnesium. Thus, unless care is taken to
ensure an adequate
balanced supply of all the nutrients
– by the use of analysis – the
application of ever higher levels of nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium in compound
fertilizers can induce plant deficiencies of other essential nutrients.

Stimulation
Stimulation occurs when the high level of a particular nutrient increases the demand by the
plant for another nutrient.
Increased nitrogen levels create a demand for more magnesium. If more potassium is
used – more manganese is required and so on.
Although the cause of stimulation is different from that of antagonism, the result is the
same – induced deficiencies of the crop if not supplied with a balanced diet.
High levels of molybdenum in the soil and in the herbage reduce an animal’s ability to
absorb copper into the blood stream, and ruminant animals grazing these areas have to be
fed or injected with copper to supplement their diet (see Mo/Cu dotted line).
Mulder’s Chart

ANTAGONISM A decrease in availability to the plant of a nutrient by the action of another nutrient (see direction of arrow).
STIMULATION - - - - - - - - - - - - An increase in the need for a nutrient by the plant because of the increase in the level of another nutrient.
.

So, what? Too much P caused low Fe?

Olive Drab Green said:

Do you think the baking soda is possibly causing uptake issues with the iron?

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The problem with it is it's unstable and adds waaay too much unneeded sodium to the rootszone.Once the buffering capacity is used up you are left with a lot of sodium.High salinity in the rootzone is not a good thing.

Resinhound said:

The problem with it is it's unstable and adds waaay too much unneeded sodium to the rootszone.

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Got it.

op you ever consider organics? You could make a compost bin/tumbler, it wouldn't be useful right away, but once you get it going it'll make growing more enjoyable.